First trip to Japan

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Thanks for the comments guys.

A mini update. As expected Royal Host was fantastic. Think good pub food, with turf and surf and the works. We got out with two courses each and drinks for under $40. Go there if in Kyoto. No Michelin stars, but good enough. We were the only euros in there too.

Back to the hotel. My dear wife simply loves winding down the day with her favourite TV shows, denied her this trip. She didn’t want me to load up her iPad for some reason and has been watching the English language news station.

Anyway I asked her if she wanted to watch a Netflix movie together and she did. So we laid down in bed (as I said, a very small room) and watched “Now you see me”. Not a great movie, but sharing this will be a great memory.
 
A lot of walking today, around 15,000 steps. This must be doing us good.

Yesterday I spoke about the offer of the hotel’s tour desk to take us to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove for $100 each, with the “tour” comprising a return local train ticket and someone to guide us through a super obvious and well sign-posted path. Our costs to do it ourselves, zero as our JR pass got us there and back. This is possibly the biggest travel rip off I’ve seen, which is a shame as Japan seems above things like this.

Anyway we are getting better at local travel, and by the time we leave we might be semi-competent. So no trouble with the train to the bamboo grove. We got there at about 9am. If I was doing it alone, I would have got there at 7am, but even though there were people on the path, it wasn’t crowded. As we were leaving a tsunami of people (including a heap of school groups) were approaching. I heard someone say “in an hour you won’t be able to move”. Go early people.

Starting out I thought “impressive but not awesome”. Well that was before we turned on to a uphill path which was mindblowing. It was like walking through a huge gothic cathedral. This is one of the highlights so far.

After that, back to Kyoto Station. I have learnt from this forum how problematic ATMs are in Japan, so went looking for a 7 Eleven, which I knew was near the station. This was around noon and we were walking past an Irish pub. I have enough trouble walking past an Irish pub at the best times, but after 15k steps on a hot day? First Man on the Moon I think was the name. I like Irish pubs when overseas because they pour a decent Guinness and staff are friendly.

The Japanese lady behind the bar recognised the accent and asked where were from in Australia. When I told her, she brightened up and said she had been there. How long? Three days. I asked where she went to after that and she said “Warrnambool, for 6 months”. I guess she was a student at South West University, but didn’t ask as we talked about the wonders of Warrnambool, and Port Fairy. To cap of a nice time I asked where the 7-Eleven was. Next door. And we would have missed it as the signage was different to what we are used to. ATM worked well.

Enough touring for today. Chilling out before dining at Royal Host again for dinner. Tomorrow we will walk to Yasaka Shrine, Gion and surrounding areas had hit the shopping district.

Finally, book your train trips as soon as you get your JR pass. On a short leg (Kyoto to Kobe) green class was booked out. Not a disaster, but a pain to move our baggage to another carriage. Photos will follow, I promise.
 
You don't seem to be eating much in the way of Japanese food, which to my mind is the highlight of Japanese travel. Or is it just the names of the places you are going?
 
You don't seem to be eating much in the way of Japanese food, which to my mind is the highlight of Japanese travel. Or is it just the names of the places you are going?
We have eaten a fair bit of Japanese food on this trip, and do so back home, but it’s more the ridiculous cost at our hotels which turns us off. We should search out local restaurants at night, but after long days, it’s just something we can’t be bothered with.
 
I really like Kyoto and regret not staying at least a day longer. It’s easy to navigate and even possible to walk to some of main attractions.

Today we decided to walk to the Gion area and have a look at the Yasaka Shrine and the Kodaiji Temple, setting out just after 8am, knowing we could get a bus back to the station and then to our hotel if it was too much. 31C was forecast for today.

Walked up to and along the Takanogawa River, which was quiet and peaceful (relative to Kyoto itself).

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Then on to the Yasaka Shrine and the nearby Kodaiji Temple

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This part of Kyoto is magnificent. Some of the uphill winding lanes full of art and craft shops reminded me of Montmartre (yes vaguely).

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Walked back along Shijo St, the main shopping drag with all the brand stores you can shake a stick at.

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Burned up 18,000 steps and probably 8km (did not set my Garmin to map, but I reckon it would be about that) and back to the hotel by 1pm, which is the way to do it on a hot day.

A Japanese feast tonight before we are off to Hiroshima tomorrow.
 
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Yeah, it's easy to rack up the steps in Japan!
Make sure you eat Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima as that is where it supposedly originated.
Another place, not Japanese I know, a lovely little cafe near the river and Peace Park that had really nice pasta with oysters (Cofe Ponte). Hiroshima is a big oyster producer.
 
We have eaten a fair bit of Japanese food on this trip, and do so back home, but it’s more the ridiculous cost at our hotels which turns us off. We should search out local restaurants at night, but after long days, it’s just something we can’t be bothered with.

I'm the same. Go tearing about on foot all day, back at hotel and too knackered to go out for dinner. I usually try to make it to a restaurant that's close to my hotel, but often just go to the hotel restaurant and then collapse into bed.
 
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Farewell Kyoto.

Having a JR Green Pass, we ended up being booked into Kyoto-Kobe-Hiroshima, with a change of trains at Kobe. Having a bit of luggage and not long to change at Kobe, I showed a staff member my ticket and asked “this platform”. She nodded. I didn’t ask “next train” assuming it was the next train. Yes I know...

So we got on the next train, had a polite conversation with a couple who I thought were in our seats and sat in other seats. So wrong train, and here I am imagining a multi-hour delay and kicking myself hard. Got off, saw the next train was to Hiroshima, and got on. Stood up, but nobody told us not to. Met Marvin from Malaysia, also standing up, and had a great time standing near the doors. Final result? Got to Hiroshima 10 minutes early. This stuff can only happen in Japan.

Our hotel in Hiroshima, Hotel Granvia, was right at the station. Really nice place, sensational lobby and the room was a bit larger than Kyoto, and within expectations.

View from our room.

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As it was only 2pm, thought we would take in the Peace Park and nearby locations. I must admit to being chilled by the thought that this whole area and everyone in it was liquidated, quite literally.

Mother and Children in the Storm was very moving.

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The Orizuru Tower similarly. I can only assume it partially survive because of the steel structure. Everyone’s seen it, so a detail.

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Walked back to the hotel, with a drink on the Kyobashi-gawa River.

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So another 10k steps and a moving and good day.

Tomorrow to Miyajima, Hiroshima Castle and the Mazda Museum (we have owned two, including a Mazda 1300 death trap) before off to Osaka.
 
Farewell Kyoto.

Having a JR Green Pass, we ended up being booked into Kyoto-Kobe-Hiroshima, with a change of trains at Kobe. Having a bit of luggage and not long to change at Kobe, I showed a staff member my ticket and asked “this platform”. She nodded. I didn’t ask “next train” assuming it was the next train. Yes I know...

So we got on the next train, had a polite conversation with a couple who I thought were in our seats and sat in other seats. So wrong train, and here I am imagining a multi-hour delay and kicking myself hard. Got off, saw the next train was to Hiroshima, and got on. Stood up, but nobody told us not to. Met Marvin from Malaysia, also standing up, and had a great time standing near the doors. Final result? Got to Hiroshima 10 minutes early. This stuff can only happen in Japan.

Our hotel in Hiroshima, Hotel Granvia, was right at the station. Really nice place, sensational lobby and the room was a bit larger than Kyoto, and within expectations.

View from our room.

View attachment 165863

As it was only 2pm, thought we would take in the Peace Park and nearby locations. I must admit to being chilled by the thought that this whole area and everyone in it was liquidated, quite literally.

Mother and Children in the Storm was very moving.

View attachment 165864

The Orizuru Tower similarly. I can only assume it partially survive because of the steel structure. Everyone’s seen it, so a detail.

View attachment 165865

Walked back to the hotel, with a drink on the Kyobashi-gawa River.

View attachment 165866

So another 10k steps and a moving and good day.

Tomorrow to Miyajima, Hiroshima Castle and the Mazda Museum (we have owned two, including a Mazda 1300 death trap) before off to Osaka.
Last time I was there with a friend (June last year) we stayed at the Granvia. It was excellent although because we were on a short time frame we only stayed one night, The time before we were at the Sheraton and I thought the Granvia was much better. Planning for it again next time.
The Peace Park is very moving and we loved (if you can call it that) the Museum to the Victims.
 
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