Europe, with an Arctic cruise, a Balkan tour and bits of France and Malta

[Seat0B]

Norwegian Star,

Ooh that's my ship for our upcoming cruise in September.

 

[RooFlyer]

Ah there you are @RooFlyer - I've been missing my geology education!

All part of the service ma'm

St Paul's catacombs, a must see. Located in the town of Rabat. Wikipedia:

St. Paul's catacombs are part of a large cemetery once located outside the walls of the ancient Roman city of Melite, now covered by the smaller Mdina and Rabat. It also comprises the catacombs of Saint Agatha, San Katald, St. Augustine, and many others.

The cemetery probably originated in the Phoenician-Punic period. As in Roman tradition, Phoenician and Punic burials were located outside city walls. The many tombs discovered in areas outside the known line of the Roman city suggest that the city of Melite was close to equal size.

The early tombs consisted of a deep rectangular shaft[clarification needed] with one or two chambers dug from its sides. This type of burial was used well into the Roman occupation of the islands, but the chambers grew larger and more regular in shape over time. It is probable that this enlargement joined neighboring tombs and led to the creation of small catacombs, which became the norm by the fourth century CE.

The catacombs were in use until the seventh, possibly eighth century. Some of the catacombs were used again during the re-Christianization of the Island around the 13th century.

Per the sign, there are 23 separate entrances; about 2/3 were open when I visited. The first is the largest accessible. As I went on, I realised that they were mostly variations on a theme. Some contain bones (and these are marked by the sign at the entrance); some are pagan, some Christian and some Jewish.

The lighting isn't conducive to good photography - orange, often shining up to the viewer. I didn't see any sign about not using flash, so as no-one else seemed to be using flash, after my first pic, I went with the ambient light.

The first catacomb has branching and some circular pathways and it wasn't until I was a fair way in that I realised this - that there wasn't a 'one way' route. Had to find my own way back to the start!







Some of the openings are very low and I've still got the graze when i scraped my head a couple of times.



These circular features are called triclinia and are tables and reclining 'couches' fir the funerary meals.





It was hot again and it was good to duck into various catacombs to see what was there. Its spread over a large area.





These are tombs with remains in place- they were re-covered over in abt 2018



This is a Jewish tomb, marked by the stylised menorah.

 

[RooFlyer]

It was then only a 10-15 minutes walk to the Mdina - another must-see.

Mdina is a fortified city in the Western Region of Malta which served as the island's former capital, from antiquity to the medieval period. The city is still confined within its walls, and has a population of 250.

A natural redoubt, the area of the city has been inhabited since prehistory. A Phoenician colony known as Ann was established around the 8th century BC, sharing its name with the island and presumably acting as its capital. During the Punic Wars, the town was acquired by the Romans and renamed Melita after the Greek and Latin name for the island, probably taken from the Punic port at Cospicua on the Grand Harbour. Greco-Roman Melite was larger than present-day Mdina. It was reduced to its present size during the period of Byzantine or Arab rule. Following a 9th-century massacre, the area was largely uninhabited until its refounding in the 11th century as Madīnah, from which the town's current name derives. Mdina then continued to serve as the capital of Malta until the arrival of the Order of St. John in 1530, who used Birgu instead. Mdina experienced a period of decline over the following centuries, although it saw a revival in the early 18th century during which several Baroque buildings were erected.

Streets of Rabat along the way








First, the dry moat, walls and fantastic entry gate





This gate was constructed in 1720 by the Order of St John and was originally served by a wooden drawbridge. The original gate is walled off to the right.

 

[FlyingFiona]

Those catacombs are so cool! I gave a talk on religious relics recently and researched catacombs as part of the talk. I have a new found appreciation for them and am dying (no pun intended) to visit some on my next European trip.

 

[RooFlyer]

Those catacombs are so cool! I gave a talk on religious relics recently and researched catacombs as part of the talk. I have a new found appreciation for them and am dying (no pun intended) to visit some on my next European trip.

If you are planning to visit the Paris catacombs, watch the booking page very carefully. They open up time-slot tickets a week ahead and they go very quickly. I tried to get a ticket 7 days out, maybe 7 hours after sales opened and all gone!!

 

[FlyingFiona]

If you are planning to visit the Paris catacombs, watch the booking page very carefully. They open up time-slot tickets a week ahead and they go very quickly. I tried to get a ticket 7 days out, maybe 7 hours after sales opened and all gone!!

Actually, not interested in seeing them becuase they aren't original (in as much as the remains in them were relocated not interred there.)

I know someone who is an expert in the unofficial (i.e. illegal to enter) catacombs of Paris. There is a whole network of "catophiles" who go down sometimes for days on end. He tells fascinating stories of it all.

Anyway, I shan't hijack your trip report with it any further! (I'm just loving being on the trip with you - thanks so much for sharing it all.)

 

[RooFlyer]

St Paul's Metropolitan Cathedral in Mdina.

The first cathedral which stood on the site is said to have been dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, but it fell into disrepair during the Arab period[3] (the churches in Melite [Malta] were looted after the Aghlabid invasion in 870). In Arab times, as revealed by excavations, the site was used as a mosque.

Following the Norman invasion in 1091, Christianity was re-established as the dominant religion in the Maltese islands. A cathedral dedicated to St. Paul was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. The cathedral was built in the Gothic and Romanesque styles, and it was enlarged and modified a number of times.

In particular it was partially rebuilt after an earthquake in 1693 - around 1700.





Inside, completely OTT, as you'd expect





Looking up into the dome

 

[RooFlyer]

Like ST John's Co-Cathedral in Valetta, the nobles and worthies of the Mdina are buried within the Cathedral, with their tombs marked by elaborate marble covers.

 

[RooFlyer]

Some general views around the Mdina. It was blazingly hot, and everything being made of limestone, everything was radiating heat.









Not everyone appreciates the tourists. Apparently to live within the Mdina its likely your place has been in the family for generations. An 'old money' thing,



Uber back to the hotel, passing the aqueduct on the way. Not Roman, but Order of St John and commissioned in 1615.



And at the hotel, happily sat in the cool of the lobby for a while with a complimentary Tanqueray G&T.

 

[RooFlyer]

After a bit of a rst, it was out to the streets again to re-familiarise myself. I was here in 2020 and its a small place so it was a relaxing walk. SOme views around Valetta. I think more of the streets have been pedestrianised from last time (not that there was much room for cars in the first place). Wall to wall outside dining and bars. Other tourists mostly Italian and Brits.









I sought out this place - last time it did wonderful hot chocolate (as a chocolate-specialty shop), but its gone downhill. 'Hot chocolate please'. 'Sorry, we don't have any hot chocolate' Huh? Anyway, I settled for a energy-replacing iced coffee and, um, cheesecake.





Jean Parisot de Valette, who led the Order of St John in the Great Siege of Malta (have a read!) and successfully repelled an overwhelming force of Ottomans in 1565. In his honour, they established Valetta.



Napoleon waz here



Is the European flag a touch of irony?

 

[RooFlyer]

Just scenes around Valetta. History overload. Except for the heat and the hillslopes, you could spend hours just wandering





Streets are so narrow you can't get a decent pic!





Grand Master's Palace (GM was the head of the Order of St John)











Finally, plum tuckered out, I looked for somewhere for dinner. Most of the places were really noisy and still crowded, so when I spied a sushi place on a shady terrace with lots of spce, I made a beeline for it.

God. Local Cisk lager. I should have discovered it before. I really enjoyed the fresh sushi and sashimi after so many heavier meals.

 

[zig]

Too hot for hot chocolate perhaps? The iced coffee looked like a nice alternative.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next morning, first order of business was a visit to the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum (hypogeum in this sense means an underground burial chamber) . This is a very popular attraction and you have to be quick to snaffle a ticket when they go on sale - tours are escorted are by small groups only, at a particular time slot. 80 people/day allowed.

It located on a small street in a suburb of Valetta. This front isn't the entrance



No, that's around the corner

The Hypogeum of Ħal Saflieni is a Neolithic subterranean structure dating to the Saflieni phase (3300 – 3000 BC) in Maltese prehistory. The Hypogeum is thought to have been a sanctuary and necropolis, with the estimated remains of more than 7,000 people documented by archeologists, and is among the best preserved examples of the Maltese temple building culture that also produced the Megalithic Temples and Xagħra Stone Circle.

One remarkable thing about it is an underground analogy of the surface megalithic structures I have visited, so the understanding of those is improved.

Unfortunately, no photographs allowed. So the following pics are taken from the Heritage Malta web site (where you can also buy tickets).

Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum - Heritage Malta

Please be aware that the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum is a highly popular … Continued

heritagemalta.mt

I also bought 20 euros of books there, so I think I'm OK to reproduce these images. The tour takes place on walkways, not always well lit. There is a guide, but she did little except escort us; it being a tour via audio guide. Access is via double doors and the environment is strictly controlled.




Carved 3D temples underground.







Otherwise, its much like the catacombs at Rabat - excavated burial chambers on three levels. Wikipedia, linked above

A broad range of objects were recovered from the site, including intricately decorated pottery vessels, stone and clay beads, shell buttons, amulets, axe-heads, and carved figures depicting humans and animals. The most notable discovery was the Sleeping Lady, a clay figure thought to represent a mother goddess. The figures range from abstract to realistic in style, with major themes thought to be related to veneration of the dead and spiritual transformation. Complex artistic techniques are also represented, as in the case of a single large pottery bowl which utilized both naturalistic and stylized themes, with one side realistically depicting bovines, pigs and goats, and the other side representing hatched animals hidden within complex geometric patterns.

 

[RooFlyer]

After that, it was a short 10-15 minute walk to another neolithic megalithic site, Ħal Tarxien Prehistoric Complex. Amzing that these places are so easily reached - we are still within suburban Valetta.



Heritage Malta web site:

Ħal Tarxien Prehistoric Complex - Heritage Malta

The lower part of a colossal statue of a figure wearing a … Continued

heritagemalta.mt

From that:

The lower part of a colossal statue of a figure wearing a pleated skirt stands sentinel to the dawn of civilization in the highly decorated South Temple within the Tarxien Neolithic Complex site. Discovered in 1913 by farmer Lorenzo Despott, the site consists of a complex of four megalithic structures built in the late Neolithic and then readapted for use during the Early Bronze Age. Only the lower part of the walls survives in the easternmost structure, the oldest part of the complex. However, it is still possible to see its concave façade and five chambers. The extensive archaeological excavations undertaken between 1915 and 1919 were led by Sir Themistocles Zammit, Director of Museums at the time.

The South structure is rich in prehistoric art, including bas-relief sculpture depicting spirals and animals. The domesticated animals depicted include goats, bulls, pigs, and a ram. The large number of animal bones discovered in this complex, most of which were found in specific areas, indicates the importance these animals played at the time. The eastern building follows the traditional design of these megalithic structures, with a central corridor flanked by a semi-circular chamber on each site. Evidence of arched roofing in the unique six-apsed Central Structure, the last of the four to be built, helps visitors imagine how these temples might have looked when covered.

A good view is here:

Now, it was a little disappointing in that there has been so much 'restoration' of the stones - shaping weathered and broken stones with textured concrete. In any monument, I prefer to see it how it was and I think these days, UNESCO wouldn't 'allow' this type of restoration.

Its all under a large canopy to preserve it (and provide some welcome shade!!).







You can see the cement making the stones a nice smooth shape again.









Animals ...



You have to squint your eyes a bit to see two cows

 

[RooFlyer]

As I mentioned up thread, a tradition in Valetta and a popular sight is the firing of the saluting battery canon at noon and 4pm. You can view it for free from a terrace above, or from the canon level for 3 euro. You can see the layout here



The better view is from the free terrace but the problem is that it gets crowded and if you are not on the fence you won't see very well. To get on the fence you probably have to arrive 30-45 mins beforehand, and wait in the sun. There are amazing views from there, too; generally panning left to right across the main harbour







The Barakka Lift again





As I had had the terrace view last time, I decided to go for the close-up view. But I found this had changed from 2020. Then. you got escorted around the area by the volunteers (in old stye uniforms) and chat about the canons etc. Now its just access onto the area, again waiting in the hot sun, unless you huddle by the back wall. Anyway, 4pm approached and they came out and fired the gun.







Missed it! Even though I had my camera on burst.



My advice would be to get there early with a good hat and a drink and watch from the terrace above.

 

[RooFlyer]

I also did a tour of the WW2 tunnels and operations rooms. In early WW2, the British Army re-purposed the old Order of St John tunnels beneath the saluting battery area for a (early) radar monitoring station, co-ordination and planning area. Later, the command was moved a little way to more advanced rooms, but that's not part of this tour. It cost 17 euros, which was expensive (most attractions I have been to have been 10-15 euros) and its run by volunteers.

It was disappointing. The guide told annoying irrelevant stories and wasted a lot of time, and there wasn't much tunnels shown. Some good ops rooms at the end, but about half the tour was just waking ariud the area. Now, this was good scenery, but not a WW2 tunnels/ops tour.

Some good views whe we were outside





Some of the war rooms, where they plotted radar intercepts on the first map room, then plotted defensive air and sea movements on another one.







Outside, I guess this is one way to keep litter down:

 

[SuePa]

It's a pity the same penalties don't apply to graffitists!