Europe, with an Arctic cruise, a Balkan tour and bits of France and Malta

[ellen10]

Great photos, looks lovely, warm and relaxing.

 

[Pushka]

A stroll outside gives a better idea of the location

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There is a good chance a G&T will be consumed here later

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Kotor old town city wall, across the bay. Apparently you can walk up it ... ?2,000 steps IIRC.

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A church across the bay. We are in Orthodox Christian territory.

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A small boat cruise around the islands here a few years ago was my first introduction to a spritz. Something about the orange and blue seas and skies and everything pops. It really is a stunning part of the world.

 

[Flyfrequently]

More of the Choir screen, SW side

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The nave is incredibly light and bright

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Thanks for the photos of Notre Dame @RooFlyer
We were due to go inside in June 2019.
Fortunately I had been in 2015 and 2017.
I didn't meet the dress code in 2018 - exposed shoulders on a 38° day.
But Mr Flyfrequently enjoyed it sans moi

 

[Flyfrequently]

No fabulous food photos, sorry. I self catered that night from a supermarket type store in the railway station. Brekky also at the station coffee shop.

Today didn't start as expected. I was planning to go to the Catacombs but discovered this was also ticketed, bookings available for the next 7 days and ... totally sold out! I'll have to jump on a week before my last day in Paris, at the end of this month. I echo your sentiments @Seat0B !

But the first stop was always going to be Basilica Sacre Coeur at Montmartre. Missed doing this on two previous visits and I wasn't going to miss out this time! Vor those who don't know it, and its controversial history

Sacré-Cœur, Paris - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur est un édifice religieux situé au sommet de la butte Montmartre à Paris.

www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com

The metro deposits you a few hundred metres away, whereupon you take a funicular up to the church which is, as noted, on a hill the highest point in Paris.

Or not. My two day transport pass needed a supplement to be paid, and there was a long queue, so I hoofed it up the steps.

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From the top, there arr fantastic views over Paris

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Notre Dame

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Pompidou Centre

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Louis XIV

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There was a very cursory bag check before going in. Oh, that reminds me - there was NO security going into Notre Dame. Zilch. I thought that very odd.

Good on you @RooFlyer for hoofing it up the steps, I was happy to pay the few € to squash in with the masses on the funicular!

 

[Human]

Good on you @RooFlyer for hoofing it up the steps, I was happy to pay the few € to squash in with the masses on the funicular!

My recollection from using the funicular a few years ago is that I was able to use a Metro ticket. Is that not possible any more?

 

[RooFlyer]

My recollection from using the funicular a few years ago is that I was able to use a Metro ticket. Is that not possible any more?

I don’t know, but you are probably correct. I went to use my NaviGo two day pass and it didn’t work. I looked around and there was asign on the window with the NaviGo logo and + €2.5. I think it was.

So it looked like if you were travelling on a discounted ticket, they wanted a bit more

 

[kevrosmith]

My recollection from using the funicular a few years ago is that I was able to use a Metro ticket. Is that not possible any more?

In preparation for our recent trip in Paris, my research showed they had recently changed how the metro tickets work, including the tourist passes. So perhaps it was enchanced during this change.

The tourist passes isn’t much value except if you are travelling to the airports, which seems RooFlyer is, so he’s probably getting the best use of it.

We just stuck with individual bus/tram tickets most days, and occasionally the day pass made more sense if we thought we might use a mix of bus and metro/RER. The new tickets cover all zones 1-5 for a flat fare.

We had no plans to visit Sacre Coure, so I didn’t do any research about the funicular.

 

[I love to travel]

In preparation for our recent trip in Paris, my research showed they had recently changed how the metro tickets work, including the tourist passes. So perhaps it was enchanced during this change.

The tourist passes isn’t much value except if you are travelling to the airports, which seems RooFlyer is, so he’s probably getting the best use of it.

We just stuck with individual bus/tram tickets most days, and occasionally the day pass made more sense if we thought we might use a mix of bus and metro/RER. The new tickets cover all zones 1-5 for a flat fare.

We had no plans to visit Sacre Coure, so I didn’t do any research about the funicular.

Ok off to research Paris public transport tickets if things have changed. Thanks for the heads up

 

[TheRealTMA]

And now the highlight - the six 'Lady and the Unicorn' tapestries from the end of the 15th centuries. Unfortunately, the museum's English page for these doesn't seem to exist, but here's the French

La Dame à la licorne | Musée de Cluny

Le Toucher, le Goût, l’Odorat, l’Ouïe et la Vue… et une sixième pièce, avec une tente bleue et l’inscription mon seul désir : immédiatement reconnaissables

www.musee-moyenage.fr

or Wikipedia - you really do ned to have a read to understand the collection & its significance.

The Lady and the Unicorn - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

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À Mon Seul Désir (to my only desire)

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Detail:

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'Hearing'

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'Sight'

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Fantastic!

 

[RooFlyer]

Ok off to research Paris public transport tickets if things have changed. Thanks for the heads up

there are two apps for Ile de France that I could find.

One I think called Ile de France Mobilities you can only register once you’re in France. I got that confirmed from their help email. I got the impression that it would be the better app though..

The one I got Bonjour RATP is perhaps a third-party app for the same services that the other one uses.

And yes, €44 for two days would not be worth it unless you made trips back-and-forth from the airport I did

 

[I love to travel]

there are two apps for Ile de France that I could find.

One I think called Ile de France Mobilities you can only register once you’re in France. I got that confirmed from their help email. I got the impression that it would be the better app though..

The one I got Bonjour RATP is perhaps a third-party app for the same services that the other one uses.

And yes, €44 for two days would not be worth it unless you made trips back-and-forth from the airport I did

I am staying at the airport too (Residence Inn) so will need the three day pass. About $110 AUD - ouch, these have jumped massively over the past few years.

 

[RooFlyer]

Our first full day in Montenegro is in Kotor and environs.

Kotor lies at the end of a very long and branching fjord (not glacial, just a drowned river valley) and consists of an Old Town and some lovely houses around the fjord and zillions of tourists! Fortunately a cruise boat isn't due in until after lunch so its mainly groups like us. Five cruise ships are allowed into Kotor at any one time - a silly thing. Larger Dubrovnik is only allowed three.

IOty is a compact small town with a complex history (see below), but its most striking feature is its 'Italianate' feel, reflecting rule by Venice for almost three centuries up to 1797. Wikipedia

The city has been fortified since the early Middle Ages, when Emperor Justinian built a fortress above Ascrivium in 535, after expelling the Ostrogoths. Ascrivium was plundered by the Saracens in 840. It was one of the more influential Dalmatian city-states, initially with a Romance-speaking population, as throughout the early Middle Ages, and until the 11th century the Dalmatian language was still spoken in Kotor. The city was part of Byzantine Dalmatia in that period, and the modern name of Kotor probably originated in the Byzantine name for the city: Dekatera or Dekaderon.

In 1002, the city suffered damage under the occupation of the First Bulgarian Empire, and in the following year it was ceded to Duklja by the Bulgarian Tsar Samuil. Duklja, or Dioclea, was a vassal duchy of the Bulgarian Empire at the time. The local population resisted the pact and, taking advantage of its alliance with Dubrovnik, maintained its high autonomy. Duklja, the biggest Serb duchy at the time, gradually became more powerful under Vojislavljević dynasty and eventually independent from Byzantium in 1040. The city remained autonomous up until Duklja was once again subdued by Byzantium in 1143.

The city was conquered in 1185 by Stefan Nemanja, the ruler of the Grand Principality of Serbia and founder of the Nemanjić dynasty. In the 14th century the commerce of Cattaro, as named in Latin scripts (in Serbian Kotor, city of the King), rivalled that of Republic of Ragusa, and caused the Republic of Venice to be envious. Kotor remained the most important trading port of subsequent Serb states – Kingdom of Serbia and Serbian Empire, up to its downfall in 1371.

After the fracturing of the Serbian Empire, the city was taken by the Kingdom of Hungary, only to change hands repeatedly between them and the Republic of Venice in the period between 1371 and 1384. After that, Kotor was held by the Kingdom of Bosnia under Tvrtko I Kotromanić between 1384 and 1391. The king of Bosnia, who claimed the Serbian throne, minted his coins in Kotor.

After the death of Tvrtko in 1391, Kotor became fully independent, until the administration, wary of the looming Ottoman danger, asked Venice for protection. The city acknowledged the suzerainty of Venice in 1420.

The city was part of the Venetian Albania province of the Venetian Republic from 1420 to 1797.

The history after 1800 was equally complex. But lets have a look. Architecturally there isn't too much that stands out. Narrow streets and solid buildings with occasional small squares, per Italian influence.






Being close to Croatia, Catholicism is the main religion here, but this is one of two orthodox churches.





This square is surrounded by 'palaces' - homes of the nobility dating from the 17th century






Inside one of the Catholic cathedrals. It was Sunday, and the bells were doing overtime!

 

[RooFlyer]

The Old Town is surrounded by a very impressive city wall facing rivers and the sea, which you can walk around.









The walls trace well up the mountain behind the town.







The wall is the arc of lights above the town, but there are branches of it that go higher.



Another view of the bay from our hotel.

 

[Scash]

Great photos, especially the night time ones. So looking forward to our Balkans trip in a weeks time.

 

[Pushka]

We went Kayaking on that inlet. Just stunningly beautiful.

 

[RooFlyer]

so, after a couple of days a comment on how the group dynamics are shaping up.

As I said, I think 18 is stretching a group size and it is making getting everyone together at any point longer than it might.

Confirming that everyone is of the same travel mind - that is, like to go places around the world which are interesting and don’t mind using small groups. Most are my type “get out and do it“ but we do have a couple of “let’s have another cup of coffee“ just as we are about to leave lunch or dinner. And the usual two or three who only decide to go to the loo once we are boarding the bus. That’s inevitable and it isn't too much for a problem I think.

A team leader or guide is a 28 year-old Bosnian lady; might I say a somewhat androgynous who has excellent English and terms of phrase and seems very well organised.

 

[Scash]

but we do have a couple of “let’s have another cup of coffee“ just as we are about to leave lunch or dinner. And the usual two or three who only decide to go to the loo once we are boarding the bus. That’s inevitable and it isn't too much for a problem I think.

The downside of group travel. The upside is hopefully you’ll meet, as you said, likeminded people. We’ve only done one group tour before and encountered ones as you described, but we also met some great people who we’re still in contact with 6 years later.

 

[RooFlyer]

part of today’s route





Remind you of the run down the Andes on the Chile-Argentinian border, @JohnM ??

 

[FlyingFiona]

but we do have a couple of “let’s have another cup of coffee“ just as we are about to leave lunch or dinner.

Points to the group being too big. A slightly smaller group and they probably wouldn't dare/easier to call them out on it.

I too am a big fan of small group travel. I took one to Russia once and was thrilled when it turned out to only be two other couples and me. We had an absolute blast and I was adopted by one pair or other for different independent activities which I was appreciative of. And the tour guide made us an even number for dinner so it worked out perfectly all round.

 

[RooFlyer]

Points to the group being too big. A slightly smaller group and they probably wouldn't dare/easier to call them out on it.

Agree, but there is another metric which is looking favourable. Everyone has been on time (usually well before) for bus or group departures.

Anyway, I have to back up a bit. Still on Sunday, after the walking tour we hit the bus for a short drive to Perast. a little seaside villabe back around the bay. There we had lunch and then had a boat rise to see two islands with churches, although only one could be visited.

Perast is very scenic - just one sea-side road which cars can use but not busses so we walked along the sea-side, admiring the houses









Lunch venue



Sea Bass was excellent.



A cruise liner appeared through the narrow gap, heading towards Kotor.





Our boat trip took us to two islands:




This island (a natural one) can have no visitors (or at least not groups) - St George Island. home to a Benedictine monastery from the 12th century.



The second has been built around a small rock and is open to visitors (lots!), but not very interesting to me.