Cruise across the Mediterranean - Athens to Malaga, via Valletta

RooFlyer

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Flying out tomorrow to Adelaide for the AFF gathering and then onto Istanbul for a few days (jet lag recovery in one of my favourite cities) and then to Athens, where I will begin two back-to-back Ponant cruises across the Med.

Flights - long hauls on QR.

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The cruises - first Athens to Valletta, then Valletta to Malaga.



Included excursions in every port. Myceneans; Ancient Greece (Athenians, Sparta etc); Corfu; Norman Sicily, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Algeria (new country), Islamic and Roman Spain.

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Le Champlain; 184 maximum passengers. https://au.ponant.com/cruise-ships/le-champlain

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Then there's a high speen rail journey in Spain form Malaga to Barcelona, where I fly home. :eek:

See many of you in Adelaide!
 
We did Renfe Málaga - Madrid a few weeks ago.

Did you know that a Renfe ticket includes getting to/from the train stations by local train? “Combinado Cercanías”. So in Málaga you should be able to just scan your ticket QR code at the turnstile. I forgot, until I noticed others scanning Renfe tickets…😔

But the Malaga trains are relatively cheap and now take contactless card payment (no need to go to a ticket machine).

 
Thanks, yes, but only going from the port to the train station this time. :)
Yes, Uber is your friend then. The trains don’t go much beyond the canal nor the old town/port area.
 
HBA-MEL-ADL had the added frisson of my first visit to the QF 'grab 'n go' at Hobart Airport, still under redevelopment. Caught up with @Dantas who, like me, was off the the AFF do in Adelaide.

Hauling out of Hobart on a nice Spring morning on QF1292, A220, 2B.

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Led astray early by dantas, I had my first ever Lois for breakfast.

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Caught up with @Lowjhg in the MEL QBP, then on QF683 to Adelaide. Lunch was a salmon soba noodle creation, and quite decent.

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Staying at the Sofitel in Adelaide for 2 nights, using 2 SNUs to a Junior suite and as a Diamond. Very slow check-in, but eventually rewarded with an upgrade to a Prestige suite because my earlier request for a quiet room, away from elevators etc was (again) not initially honoured.

A pretty good room - a true suite, well laid out with good furnishings. Aircon worked well.

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Welcome amenity - initially forgotten to be transferred from the noisy room they originally allocated to me, but a gently prompt saw it delivered
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View

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The lounge was moderately busy both nights and drinks service a bit slow, but the food offerings I thought was pretty good. Overall knocks the socks of the Sofitel Brisbane (Central). A motley crew of about 6 AFFers occupied the easy chair area.
 
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Just a quick recount of the AFF meeting.

There was the icebreaker drinks and dinner at the Seven Stars hotel, then next morning a visit to 2 wineries at McLaren Vale.

D'Arenberg 'The Cube' was a disappointment for me. There was a tasting, which was one of those usual group tastings with lots of words like 'fruity' and 'citrus' from the host, but little real engagement. I didn't like most of the wines, including the 2024 Dead Arm Shiraz - too young. We were split into 2 groups and after the tasting, our group was led to the Dali exhibition of official prints and sculpture reproductions, with ludicrous prices. Then around the rest of the cube, where they proudly showed off the arty weirdness.

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Views from the Cube were good.

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Then onto Wirra Wirra, which was great. Met by a very enthusiastic host, who gave us the story of the winery, a short tour of some of the grounds, then the winery and a well led tasting, and then a massive lunch.

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Every winery needs a trebuchet (one of the former winery owners also had a bit of an eccentric/eclectic taste). It works.

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Tasting - I've always loved the Churchblock and liked most of the wines we tasted.

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Lunch menu

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I think everyone enjoyed Wirra Wirra and I'd like to go back.
 
The dinner was very good - although my, and a number of others' steaks were left unfinished due to the big lunch!

Next morning, I did the Adelaide Oval tour with 5 others

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Preparing for a Robbie Williams concert. The pitch weighs about 25 tonnes and gets removed.

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The historic scoreboard

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My flight to DOH had a 10pm departure, hence the 4pm check-out. I asked if I could use the lounge for a couple of hours and surprised that it was granted as a big favour. These places don't usually mind - but maybe they thought I was pushing a friendship!

Check-in easy, and then to the Qantas J lounge (QR directed me to the VA lounge).

Went to security, to be amazed that it was LAGS needing to be in bags, nothing >100ml (or >100g - is that new??) and laptops out of bags. What?

QR915 gate pushback ADL 21:39 (20 mins early), arr DOH 04:15, (15 mins late). 13H30m; 3A. .A350-900 with QSuites and StarLink

Usual QSuite - facing backwards, to have the seat away from the aisle and by the window,

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Amenity kit contents. There's an eyemask within the socks.

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Internet speeds

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People like to see the winelist and menu, so here they are

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Pretty damn good, if you ask me. I lurrved the Vallee de Uco malbec!!

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Dine on demand, but anyone who had the meal had it after seat belts came off, I think. J cabin maybe 2/3 full.

Amuse bouche

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Pumpkin soup

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beef cheeks. Were pretty good. Presentation lacked a bit.

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First breakfast (on board, prior to landing)

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War? What war?

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Gate was very close to the Al Mourjan garden lounge where I showered (no waiting) and made some calls etc.

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This time we pushed back DOH 10mins late and arrived IST the same amount late

QR239 dep DOH 8:10 arr IST 12:30; 4H22m. B777-300ER. J, 3K. QSuites and StarLink.

There was a plane sub at the last minute requiring J pax at least to be re-seated as we went through the gate. This caused an issue, as I'll recount in a bit.

Big queue to get out (about 5 more down to the left)

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Dates and Arabic coffee to start (odd that they weren't offered ADL-DOH; usual on most flights)

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Interestingly, the wine list was different. Unfortunately with an 8am start, I didn't indulge.

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And the breakfast menu

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Just a light one for me - this was second breakfast also a bit in the lounge.

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I mentioned how the change of plane and re-seating caused an issue. Just got settled in 3K (window RH side) when the bloke behind me started complaining to his partner across the aisle. When FA came round, he really started complaining - was told they'd be together, but they aren't (are across the aisle). Guy got mildly aggressive; QR (female FA) said can't change unilaterally, perhaps someone can change seats. Guy basically said to effect - 'go off and do your job'. Amazingly, the FA gently pushed back. He just got more rude. FA went off and the guy started calling the FA a 'bi**h' etc to his partner. A few other choice words, clearly audible.

I went and found the the CSM and reported the guy. CSM came and spoke to the guy, who continued his complaint. A bit of time elapsed and I was pretty disappointed to discover that they found someone to move so he could move beside partner, fortunately on the other row from me. I got hold of the CSAM and said I'd support the FA if any complaint was raised, and I thought it was a pity that they guy won. In Australia it would be borderline for him to be offloaded. The guy opposite me, other side of the aisle then backed me up and said he'd also support the FA if a complaint.

Of course, whenever I was standing and looked into their conjoined 'suite', they weren't conversing, just with their own headphones on etc.

Just a Richard Cranium. I'm going to send feedback to QR about him and praising the crew.
 
Great views as we approached IST.

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The former IST.

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Anyone who did the AFF quiz last Saturday will recognise this:

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The usual long walk to immigration. The rope lines were chokkers, but moved quickly. Through in about 20 mins. By that time my bag was on the carousel and it was out to get an Uber - which here means a taxi. There is a metro but its not luggage friendly and requires a change of lines with a 300m overland walk, through streets.

Not a great ride. The guy was constantly texting and even asked if he could smoke. I said please - no but he lit up anyway a bit later. There freeway is great fro about 3/4 of the way,

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...then you take your chances with congested streets.

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I'm staying 4 nights at the Movenpick Old Town, Istanbul; in the Fatih district. Its under a year old and in an area I haven't explored before. It was originally 2 nights, but when I cancelled my Doha stopover and flew here earlier, it became 4 nights. This ultimately worked to my significant advantage.

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The first-booked stay (the later of the 2 stays) I booked a Junior Suite with a SNU. The second-booked stay (the earlier one in time), I just booked a superior room, wondering if they'd upgrade that to keep me in one room.

They did, and went one better. I arrived to a friendly welcome but when I checked my request for a quiet room, away from elevators and street noise, they offered to me to see the room and it turns out that the L2 Junior suite (which they had upgraded me for the first stay :)) was right on the street, and incredibly noisy, in spite of double glazing. So the guy showing me was empowered to show me another room - on the top (5th) floor, at a back corner. Perfect! Yes, please. We went back down and it turns out that that was a Superior Suite - so an upgrade for 2 nights and a 2 level upgrade for the second 2 nights. :cool:🎯

No welcome amenity - but I let that slide :). No bar in the place and the cafe seems to be 'on demand.

Living area - there's a terrace out the side

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View out the back - a hammam, which I used, and was great. There's also a strip of restaurants and a market behind that.

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Further views

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There's good central aircon and also this R/C one.

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Tons of bathroom amenities.

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Lobby and afternoon chokkies (relatively modest)

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Checked into the hotel about 2pm very jetlagged and outright tired, but had to go out to get some sun and so my usual orientation walk.

I knew that there was a Roman aqueduct very close and ... Oh. we'd better set the scene, as there will lots of Roman, Byzantines and Ottomans in the next few posts.

Istanbul was founded approx 660 BCE, when Greek colonists led by Byzas founded Byzantium on the European shore of the Bosporus.

In 330 CE, the Roman emperor Constantine the Great chose the city as his new capital, calling it Constantinople. As the Western Roman Empire collapsed in the fifth century, the city became the heart of the Eastern Roman, or Byzantine, Empire. In the sixth century under Justinian I , it gained its greatest monument, the Hagia Sophia, completed in 537. For nearly a thousand years, Constantinople was one of the largest and wealthiest cities in Europe, protected by massive 'Theodosian' Walls. It endured sieges, plague, and in 1204 the devastating sack by the Fourth Crusade, which left the empire permanently weakened.

On May 29, 1453, Ottoman sultan Mehmed II conquered the city, ending the Byzantine Empire. Mehmed made it his capital and the Hagia Sophia became a mosque, and Topkapı Palace rose as the imperial seat. Over the following centuries, the city flourished as the centre of an empire stretching across three continents, gaining landmarks such as the Süleymaniye Mosque and the Blue Mosque. It was home to Muslims, Christians, and Jews, and was a hub of trade, scholarship, and the arts.

As the Ottoman Empire declined and ultimately collapsed after World War I, Allied forces occupied the city. In 1923, the Republic of Türkiye was founded and Ankara became the capital. The name Istanbul became the official international name in 1930.

Righto. So this aqueduct - The Aqueduct of Valens - was completed in 373 by the Emperor Valens (r. 364–378), so its really a Byzantine aqueduct. Wikipedia

Initially, the Aqueduct of Valens carried water from springs at Danımandere and Pınarca; the channels from each spring met at Dağyenice. This 4th-century first phase of the system was 268 kilometres long. A second, 5th-century phase added a further 451 kilometres of conduits that took water from Vize, 120 kilometres away from Constantinople.

The final and most visible aqueduct bridge in the system survives in the Fatih district of Istanbul, Turkey. Named in Turkish: Bozdoğan Kemeri, lit. 'Aqueduct of Bozdoğan', it is an important landmark in the city, with its arches passing over Atatürk Boulevard (Atatürk Bulvarı). The Bozdoğan Kemeri spans the valley between the hills that are today occupied by the Istanbul University and the Fatih Mosque, formerly the site of the Church of the Holy Apostles. The surviving section is 921 metres long, about 50 metres less than the original length.

Just behind the hotel, restaurants and a market

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The very bust Ataturk Bvd threads through the aqueduct arches

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The hotel, with Ataturk Bvd in front

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The othetr side of the aqueduct is Fatih Memorial Park, a nice wll-kept space with a striking statue of 15th-century Sultan Mehmed II astrice a horse.

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I was pretty whacked with jetlag, but managed to totter out to the restaurant and market strip behind the hotel. A pretty nice set-up

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Soap

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I chose a place at random and had the lamb. Very affable host but unfortunately smokers all round.

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Back to the hotel and sunset over the Suleymaniye Mosque

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And to the right, the aqueduct again. 5th floor, with the restaurant the entire length behind the glass on the right.

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