Bavaria, Lake Como, Madrid, Nthn Spain & Barcelona

[ellen10]

Great photos.
We did a train from Lake Como (Bellagio) to Lucerne via The Bernina Express. Loved the train travel and beautiful countryside.
Europe does train travel well.

 

[RB]

Great photos.
We did a train from Lake Como (Bellagio) to Lucerne via The Bernina Express. Loved the train travel and beautiful countryside.
Europe does train travel well.

I recently saw this video of the Bernina Express
Bernina Express video guide, Milan to Zurich - YouTube

 

[drron]

Thanks for the photos of Garmisch.We had very dear friends from there when we lived in the Hunter Valley.Must try and visit.

 

[ellen10]

I recently saw this video of the Bernina Express
Bernina Express video guide, Milan to Zurich - YouTube

Wow thanks for the clip. It brings back great memories.
The Italian regional train we caught was a packed old rattler. We too had lunch at Tirano and then boarded the beautiful clean Bernina express which glided out of the station on time to the second. The countryside was just as pictured in the clip.

We travelled in first class which had big viewing windows and wasn't full so we could jump from side to side to take in the passing views.
We purchased an 8 day first class Swiss rail pass which was excellent value for our travels all over Switzerland which covered all trains, boats and buses.

 

[RB]

Around Pigra We have visited many times and again enjoyed a catch up with our friend and her family and other people from the village. Things have continued to progress in Pigra. The one shop in the village continues to add options, the 3 bars are all being spruced up, the tourism aspect has been given more attention and the “common” areas also seem more tuned in to the tourist potential of this little gem. Wifi is now available at the Capannone Di Pigra club, the Le Lanterne de Pigra pizza bar had a grand opening to launch their Gelato bar. The club had 2 nights of live entertainment with the locals showing off their great waltzing and traditional dancing skills before some of the younger generation closed the night with some bad karaoke. Again the food was great-fantastic pizza and pastas at Le Lanterne, a good pizza at Capannone and a fresh fish bbq at “home”. Obviously the warm weather was a relief after our cold start in Germany and we got out and walked when we could.



Track between Corniga & Pigra

Church at Corniga


Catch up time over a great pizza


A special welcome back for us Aussies


New residents of Pigra

 

[RB]

Pigra to Madrid Italian school holidays meant the funicular wasn’t an option because of its late start so we were dropped at Argegno, a beautiful village on the lake. From here it was a hydrofoil ride to Como and then a 2 stage train ride to Malpensa airport. The train only drops at terminal 1 so we had a quick (less then 10 minutes) free shuttle back to T2 for our Easyjet flight. EZY2703 leaves MXP at 12.35pm. We had speedy boarding-no line at the bag drop, security lines were quiet (a guy in front was pulled aside for further checks) and it was then a sit down & use the free internet (best to opt for the slowest speed as there are then no login hassles) and an early lunch. The priority boarding was only used by 12 people on the full flight but we were quickly settled in our exit row seats. The crew coped well with some novice flyers & we pushed back on time. Flight time was only 1hr 50 min on a very smooth path-some very dry landscape as we approached Madrid. Strangely some passengers broke into applause when we landed safely-think I have only encountered this a couple of times! Bags were delivered about 10 min after we reached the carousel & then we had another 10 minute wait for the 5 Euro shuttle ride into the city. The bus has heaps of racks for baggage but few seats-just enough for us to get 1 each! After a 40 min trip (good surveillance for later) we were at Atocha station. The many exits at the station and the nearby huge roundabouts with multiple exit options played a bit of havoc with our navigation skills but we eventually walked to our apartment and were met by our waiting host.

Argegno is well served by water and road transport


Our lake transport approaches

A nice way to avoid the road traffic


Not sure if this place belongs to George


Atocha-a super busy station

 

[RB]

I have posted a review of our Madrid apartment here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....ews/calle-de-embajadores-43-madrid-69317.html

Around Madrid Late afternoon Day 1 we basically walk around & get our bearings & start to appreciate the location we are in. As per reviews we had read, our location means a max 30 min walk to any major site. Within minutes there are heaps of small shops selling fruit & veg, masses of restaurants, cafes, bars & general stores ala Aust 1960’s. Our neighbourhood also seems to be where you come to get a haircut. Punters are catered to with plenty of slot machines & virtual greyhound racing to keep them entertained. We get back into Spanish dining time with a very late dinner by our standards. Night temps get down to around 17c-nice contrast to earlier Germany! Day 2- the shutters work well & the exceptional soundproofing mean we sleep til 8.30 but seem to still beat many of the Spanish up. Our day is basically a long walk to see the sites. Except in the very centre where things are a little crushed, the crowds are certainly bearable-many independent tourists & a lot of small group young people. The hop-on hop-off buses seem to be doing a good trade & it amuses us that many seem to be using the free onboard Wi-Fi as they drive past us. Also noticed the latest item of street sales seems to be selfy sticks. Interesting to watch people with a handy friend still trying to take their own photo with these things. After our Portuguese/Spanish adventures of last year where we enjoyed the Alhambra & Seville Cathedral etc we opt out of the Prado Museum but enjoyed a look at the maritime museum-bit of a contrast to the one at Lisbon-today was good but we had been spoilt by the full size boats/ planes on display in Lisbon-certainly plenty to see including a special temporary display that included models of the Bismarck & Titanic. Our lunch at a small café included gratis tapis while we waited for our order to cook. Late in the afternoon we walked over & took in first hand the dog socialising- great entertainment, there is a café and one entrepreneur was sneaking around selling beer to the unprepared.
Despite the warnings of pick pockets and beggars etc we have found Madrid to be quiet tame. Street after street of beautiful apartments, lots of bars and great street life. There are great numbers of buildings being refurbished, police numbers are massive and we encounter many pockets of different races seemingly living in harmony.
Last Day Madrid- another hot one. We track part of our path for our early train departure tomorrow to save some worries. While near Atocha we wander through Pargue De El Retiro-plenty of people around with some playing tennis, exercise classes, young guys working out on the fitness circuits and heaps of joggers & walkers. We ended up at the Alfonso X11 monument where there were plenty out in the boats on the water. We called into the San Fernando market only about 100 metres from our apartment and Bar Barroso showcased their Spanish omelette & another homemade dish based on egg & cheese- very limited English but good service.

Various photos of our Madrid wanderings follow

 

[RB]

More of Madrid

 

[RB]

More of Madrid

Thought the timing in this photos was pretty good

Spoilt for choice

Kilometre Zero-lucky to get a photo with no persson staanding on it

 

[RB]

Last of the Madrid photos

There is always someone to help you


The display method makes it difficult to look at a book before buying

Alfonso X11 monument


The makings of aa simpe but great lunch

 

[RB]

Madrid to Cangas De Onis
We had an early start with a 20 minute walk to Atocha-the return journey was much easier than our arrival as we had the hang of the huge roundabout near the station. At a machine we collect our free transfer ticket to Chamartin (courtesy of our existing long distance ticket). Chamartin is a busy station where you wait upstairs until the platform is indicated on a board, then you move down where tickets are scanned & all bags are put through a simplistic security check. We are travelling in 1[SUP]st[/SUP] class having booked early at a great price- we are in a full carriage & note many people originally settle into the wrong seats & carriages despite the clear signage. Seats are a shell style & slide forward for a minor recline-being tall I find the base very short under my legs. As we leave the city I see 1,000s of new unregistered cars parked in holding yards. Initially there are wide valleys with low hills & grain crops. Compared to Germany there is very little solar in this area. Throughout this transfer we see fantastic modern multi lane roads & bridges that are carrying very little traffic. Gradually things open to broad acre irrigation areas and some vineyards. After Leon (we backed over some ground) the landscape became much more rugged with exposed rock faces. There are plenty of rail crews working amongst the green hillside & there are a few distant high peaks with patchy snow cover. We arrived at Oviedo on time & thanks to locals located the bus stop a few hundred metres away. We had used Alsa buses previously & found them very reliable- indeed we left the 44 gate bus station on time. The bus trip to Cangas De Onis took us out of the city to pleasant rural views in the narrow valleys. On arrival we had a short 5 minute odd walk to our apartment.

Photo 1/-our train out of Madrid 2/ Still reflection problems but gives an idea of landscape 3/& 4/ views either way down maain street of Cangas De Onis

 

[RB]

I have posted a review of our Cangas apartment here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....apartments-spa-cueto-covadonga-ave-69368.html

Around Cangas de Onis
The weather again played a role in our activities. The temps were pleasant-around 17-20c during the day but there were scattered showers and generally low cloud. Our first afternoon we get some breakfast supplies and basically wandered the busy, small main square and surrounds-heaps of shops, food outlets & bars for a small permanent population. The tourist office is very helpful. The village, located at the foot of the Picos de Europa is a nice surprise with it’s Roman bridge and beautiful church. Interesting that the bridge may actually be from around the 13th century but is sited where the Sella River was crossed in Roman times-the cross that hangs from the bridge is a reproduction of the Victory Cross that dates from the 10th century-the original is in Oviedo Cathedral.
The village is home to many outdoor pursuit companies with quad bikes, canoes, mountain biking, horse riding. trekking and mountaineering very well catered for. Canas de Onis was the original capital of the Kingdom of Asturias & the food features beef, fresh fish and organic vegetables. Many shops promote the local cheeses (particularly a blue cheese) and cider is very prominently stocked.

 

[RB]

Day 2- Too much low cloud to consider the Lakes of Covadonga so instead we headed through town & along the river to roughly follow the Rio Sella walk. We start with a walk over the bridge built in the middle ages on the site of what was a Roman bridge. Then we go through small farm holdings in a relatively narrow valley. Cars mark the spots where locals are down the banks fishing. Sheep and cattle are living a relaxed existence and there are plenty of horses with many mares having young foals at foot. Tiny villages merge together and then we cross a small swinging bridge & come across a small hydro-electric station with a canal & weir. Here we add to the plotted walk & clamber uphill into the clouds to Collado de Andrin taking in the great views back down the valley. Back in town things are much busier-over 4,000 riders and families have settled into town for a community bike ride-Sportive La Classica Cicloturista Los Lagos Covadonga .

This foal was still very unsteady on its feet


Just upstream from a mini hydro electric station


View back to Sella River and highway

The fishermen around here were very methodical-they spent a lot of time watching the stream before casting, there was a lot of surface food in the river

This certainly looked like it would attract some birds

 

[RB]

Day 3- again the web cams show the clouds that make circling the lakes a lost cause and the bike ride makes access even more difficult. We opt for a bus ride up to historic Covadonga-scene of a great Spanish victory over the Moors & birthplace of Christian Spain. Here we join the throngs viewing the basilica, the holy cave, the great bell and tributes to Pelayo. Surprisingly we find ourselves alone during our time at the museum. We opt to walk back down to Cangas, around 2.5 hrs including a lunch stop-great tracks (but not well sign posted) all the way and plenty of chances to provide support to the cyclists as they wound up the hill to Covadonga. Back in town we catch a part of a small parade marking Fiestas de Antoniu. Another good meal at La Paolaccia- a very busy Italian that does take-away pizza but we have eat in pizza (around 8.5 Euro) one night & another night pasta dishes-great staff who know how to move & keep customers happy

Below are scenes at Covadonga

 

[RB]

Photos below are from our hike back down from Covadonga

 

[RB]

Cangas De Onis to Arenas de Cabrales We had an early morning look around the Cangas de Onis markets and then got ready for our transfer. It was another Alsa bus trip-this was the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] time we were asked to show our passport to authenticate our booking (always shows as a condition but never been asked previously). Only a 35 min ride but gives us better access to some walks. The only other passengers at noon on a Sunday seem to be shoppers from the market at Cangas de Onis. Great driver – even got off to help get our bags out and he was fairly happy with his “your welcome” in response to our “gracias”. Arenas is spectacular-full of friendly locals and Spanish tourists having Sunday lunch and drinks.




This guy seemed to have expectations that people would give him a wide berth

What more do you need for a great lunch?

 

[RB]

I have posted a review of our Cabrales hotel here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....iews/hotel-villa-de-cabrales-spain-69429.html

Day 1 Arenas We spent the afternoon with a short walk getting the lay of the land & scouting for dining & drinking options. We immediately got a “small town feel” with constant greetings. The cafes/bars all seem to play host to locals playing cards. Every local man seems to carry a long stick which we later found to be for discouraging dogs and cows. We encounter our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] groups of motorbike riders-it seems there are quite a few are English folk who take a short ferry ride from home over to the nearby Santander.

 

[RB]

Day 2-Despite language problems we arranged to get the hotel to call a taxi (David) to takes us to Poncebas to start the 20 km or so (return) Cares Gorge walk. This was a bucket list item for the trip & we finally jagged a brilliantly sunny day.
Known as “The Divine Gorge” it takes us through the heart of the Picos De Europa mountains. There are limestone faces of up to 200 metres & the river Cares is crystal clear below. The entire path is well defined & was originally constructed as a service access for a hydroelectric project from the 1930’s. It was an engineering feat of manual labour to move water from a small dam at Cain via 12km of canals to a hydro plant.
As expected the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] 45 min hike was an uphill slog over an uneven, rocky surface that soon found out some of the other hikers. The 1hr mark is slated as a spot for seeing goats & they come around the corner as if on demand-1 immediately takes a shine to me, licking my sweaty legs & arms. There are plenty of walkers but most have a good awareness of the large drops & the narrowness of the bridges & darkness of some of the tunnels. After the 3hr walk out we enjoy sitting with a sandwich & cold drink & then face the 2.5 hr return-many people only do a 1 way or part walk. Back at Poncebos we end up organising a different (Taxi Pidal) cab for the ride back to town. We are hot and tired but entirely wrapt in the experience-dramatic crags & rocky spires is probably a good summary of the terrain we encountered.

Before the first climb





My new found friend

 

[RB]

Half way & time for a beer, snack & a check of photos

 

[RB]

Looking towards the finish line

A keen observer as we began the final decent

They say it is important to celebrate your achievements



This is a link we found on the web that gives a bit of an overview of the gorge

La ruta del Cares a vista de dron. Espectacular | EL TOMAVISTAS DE SANTANDER