A Plane to Spain

[OZDUCK]

Probably the "sight" most associated with Bilbao these days is the Guggenheim Museum building. It is certainly an uniquely styled structure. There are artworks scattered around the precinct. I have to admit that the only thing we visited inside were the toilets as the then current exhibitions held little interest for us.

The spider on the riverbank.

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The museum as a whole.



From the lookout on the hills across the river



From the nearby bridge



My granddaughter liked this photo of a dog created out of flowers in the forecourt



Reflected in the surrounding buildings - a couple of these are obviously designed to provide such reflections.

 

[OZDUCK]

Some more of Bilbao in general. Most of the city is very pleasant if not spectacular

Parking is not a problem for those with flexible minds.



Looking upriver from near our apartment. Left side the old town - good. Right side, behind the riverside apartments, - bad




A slightly warped view of Plaza Berria (1821) - this is the only daylight photo I took for some reason



The square at night full of Pinxtos bars



The streets of the old town at night



The secondary train station



And the inside the main station. I love the impressive name far better than simply Perth Station or Fremantle station like we have here.



City Hall

 

[OZDUCK]

Bilbao has a combined travel card called the Barik Card. You have to pay 3 Eoru for it plus top ups. It works seamlessly on trains, buses, trams the transporter bridge and the funicular up to the hilltop lookout. With the cards the fares are very cheap.

The inside of one of their commuter trains. The trains and stations are all pretty spiffy - it only opened in 1995.





One of the advantages of Bilbao is that it is easy to make day trips to nearby towns - especially seaside ones. Because my wife was unwell for a couple of days we only did this once but it was a fun and easy outing.We went to Plentzia which is at the terminus of one of the Metro lines and about 25 Km from the city. Most of the trip is above-ground so there was some interesting things to see.

Note the rugby pitch - I assume the closeness to the French border is the reason why we saw a few of these around the Basque area.



Plentzia was an old fishing port that is now a beach resort for Bilbao



We had a pleasant walk of about 1 1/2 Km to the bay and beach area.



These are actually 2 Australian-style surf boats with an inflatable safety boat. They were about 1/2 sized and rowed by teenagers. There seemed to be a lot of youth activity around here as there were also a pile of youths kayaking, scouts mucking about on the river etc.





The pretty bay



A wider view of the bay and beach



For those who like their wine well aged this boat belongs to a company that
"cellars" wine underwater


And this marked the end of our time in Basque country. I may be wrong but to me there was a definitely different "feel" to the people in this area. I am not saying they were more or less friendlier than the other parts of Spain we visited but there certainly was a different "vibe".

 

[OZDUCK]

And now onto a place that certainly had some visual highlights - Segovia.

We arrived on Sunday afternoon and at first I was a bit concerned by the crowded streets and rampaging gangs of tour groups led by their determined leader, with banner (or umbrella) held aloft, that swept through the streets. Happily the next 2 days were much quieter, it seems that the weekend has maximum crowding. However, as a corollary the monuments were not floodlight on Monday or Tuesday night.

The Alaczar from our room balcony - by day and night. I paid a Little extra for a "room with a view"and it was well worth it.







The photogenic and much photographed Roman Aqueduct - around 112 AD. I was surprised to learn that the water channel continued underneath the city and actually terminated beneath the Alcazar - which has Roman foundations.









On our last morning in Segovia we got up early enough to see the hot air balloon tour rise into the air.

 

[OZDUCK]

Some more of Segovia. As you can see our run of great weather was continuing.

The cathedral at night



The Alcazar -- it along with Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria are said to be the main inspirations for Disney's iconic Sleeping Princess Castle.



Inside the Alcazar. Much of the interior was destroyed by a major fire in the 19th C. So most of it has been reconstructed - based on on drawings, descriptions etc. A lot of the fittings are of the correct age being removed from various buildings in the surrounding areas.












The "bow" of the Alcazar. It has a commanding view of the valley below.









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[OZDUCK]

Roast Suckling Pig “cochinillo de Segovia” is the local delicacy of Segovia. We had it once - not the whole pig.



The Alcazar from below. It was never taken by force and you can see why.






Other sights around town







The aqueduct dominates the lower town





One of the few main roads into town. It is a one-way layout and cars coming through the arch have to make a sharp u-turn. Our taxi had to take two bites to get around the corner.



The Plaza Mayor



A final sunset photo of the Alcazar




(As we were taking the taxi from the train station to the hotel the driver told us that many homes in the old city were vacant and there were lots for sale. There were indeed a number of "Vende" (For Sale) signs around the city. I noticed the same in our next stop - Salamanca. I was "reading" (I found Spanish a lot easier to read than speak) a newspaper at our hotel in Salamanca and found an article about the population loss in these cities. They - similar to Spain as whole - have been shrinking by about 1% per year over the last 4 or 5 years. It does seem to have a noticeable affect as you walk around town as there are a number of deteriorating buildings and boarded up windows.)

 

[OZDUCK]

Our next stop was Salamanca - known in Spain as "The Golden City" because of its honey-coloured sandstone. It also hosts a university that was celebrating its 800th Anniversary this year, being founded in 1218. This means that while Salamanca is a historic city its streets are lively with students speaking all sorts of languages. They all seemed pretty well behaved when we were there - noisy but no drunken groups. It was also the site of a historic battle during the Peninsular War that gave its name to a certain square in Hobart.

Plaza Mayor- completed in 1755. It was originally used as a bullfighting venue. This square led to an argument between my wife and I as to which was the more attractive, this or Madrid's Plaza Mayor - I prefer the Salamanca one.





At night it becomes very lively





This illumination was in honour of the Spanish National Day - October 12



The view over the square from the restaurant at which we had lunch - were were actually offset from the window.



Part of our lunch

Paella



Lentil Soup with chorizo

 

[OZDUCK]

Some more around Salamanca.

The "Conch House" built around 1500. Those of a pilgrimage bent will recognise the Conch decorations as the same as for the Camino de Santiago. It was actually built by a knight of the Order of Santiago de Compostela. You can find brass plaques for the pilgrimage trail throughout Salamanca as one of the trails pass through the city. The building is currently used as a Public Library.




The New Cathedral - built between 1513 - 1733



The Astronaut & Faun eating an Ice Cream added to a frieze on the Cathedral during restoration works in 1992 . It is a local custom to add some contemporary decorations during such work.. The credulous, and charlatans, claim that these are "old' and evidence of "ancient aliens" or other such flimflammery.





The Choir Stalls inside the cathedral. A lot of the insides were under restoration and blocked off.



Part of the dome

 

[OZDUCK]

The Roman Bridge was built around the middle of the first Century AD and is thus approaching its 2000th birthday. It has been extended over the centuries and only 15 of the 26 arches are Roman. Those are the ones nearer the city.





My wife on the bridge - complete with sunglasses for another lovely day. The New Cathedral is in the right background.



At night



On the walkway, with the ancient buildings of Salamanca floating in the night



Casa Lis - Museo Art Nouveau and Art Déco. This has a fabulous collection of, surprisingly enough, art nouveau and art deco objects. Photography is not allowed inside but is a fantastic little Art Museum. Anyone who has an interest in the decorative arts will find a visit here to be an absolute joy. The artists whose works are on display include - René Lalique, Elsa Schiaparelli, Peter Fabergé who is represented by a small jeweled Easter Egg, and many other more-or-less familiar names of that period.

It is housed in a small early 1900's palace built in the art nouveau style with lots of glass architectural features. This is the rear of the building.





You can have anything to eat - as long as it is ham! Salamanca is one of the major production areas for fine Spanish Ham.

 

[OZDUCK]

Now for an ecclesiastical detour

Convento de San Esteban - a Dominican monastery. Around the 1520's.









And for when you want a book to curl up with in bed



Convento de las Duenas - around the 1530's.






The nuns here are famous for hand making bakery items. Apparently up until about 2015 the nun selling them was hidden behind a grille and everything was done by turntables etc. No such problem these days - in fact the nun we dealt with spoke very good English.



Hazelnut - made with lard



Almond - and the tastier one.

 

[OZDUCK]

Some final photos from Salamanca. I really enjoyed our stay here. While it is a historic city the university students, from many lands, lend it a lively atmosphere. The architecture was beautiful and the whole town has a really nice feel to it.

There was a small display of Court clothing on in one of the university buildings. Reproductions, but created by the Prado Museum, so high quality ones. A couple of examples.





Breakfast on the Plaza mayor - OJ, toast, jamon iberico and tomato paste



Salmon and orange salad. Stuffed courgette (zucchini)



A plaza in the university area



The outside of Convento de San Esteban (St Stephen)


The facade of 'La Puerta de Salamanca' (university building)



The pilgrimage trail markers found in the pavements



Walking from our hotel to the Old Town centre




A final view of Salamanca from the roof of our hotel

 

[OZDUCK]

We now headed off to Madrid via the very flash Salamanca Station. I forgot to mention previously that at most of the larger stations your baggage has to go through an scanner. While the security checks are like an airport the time taken is minimal.

This is only the side - the front was very well set up. As the sign says , the Carrefour supermarket is open on Sundays and holidays. We got some fruit and nibbles for our journey from here..



This is the colour of most of the countryside we travelled through. The hot summer had obviously taken a toll.




We arrived in Madrid at the historic Atocha Station - our accommodation was an easy walk from there.

The old arched platform building has now got a luxuriant garden inside.





We arrived on Spanish National Day too late for the main parade. However, across from the station, a small one was put on by people from the Latin America countries.

 

[JohnM]

Late aboard, but 1A was rightly still vacant .

 

[VPS]

Really enjoying this - brings back good memories and great photos - thanks

 

[OZDUCK]

We probably didn't see as much of Madrid as we wanted because the National Day celebrations extended far more than we thought. We arrived on a Friday,Public Holiday, and the crowds were around all weekend. Places like the Prado and Royal Palace had free admission over the long weekend and you couldn't get near them for the crowds.

One of the first things I noticed about Madrid is that you can see, and feel, that it once was the centre of an huge Empire. There are wide boulevards, impressive buildings and grand monuments.

Most of these people were waiting for the free entry to The Prado on the Friday Public Holiday. We went on the next Tuesday and only had to wait in line for about 10 minutes.



Just down from The Prado was the wedding cake style Palacio de Comunicaciones (Old GPO). There is an excellent lookout on top of this building. Those who watch the Vuelta a España will recognise it, and the Cibelise Fountain in front, from the final stage of the race.




Cibelies Fountain



The fountain is obviously a spot for Wedding Photos. At first we thought this must have been some sort of fashion shoot as the pair of them were so attractive - but their demeanor made it clear that it was a real wedding photo.



Views from the lookout










Another bride. The brides father (?) had plenty gold braid on himself. But I couldn't fault their choice of wedding car. I cant identify the car but I think it might be a 1950's Pegaso Cabriolet

 

[ellen10]

Ooh I have just realised that we will be in Barcelona next year on the Spanish National day. I wonder if they have similar parades.

 

[drron]

We loved being in Madrid for Spain Day.Mind you we had been upgraded to the Royal Suite at the Westin Madrid so had a nice balcony to watch the Parade.

 

[OZDUCK]

Ooh I have just realised that we will be in Barcelona next year on the Spanish National day. I wonder if they have similar parades.

With the troubles in Catalonia over the last few years demonstrations are possibly more likely.

 

[OZDUCK]

Some more of Madrid. It is a really easy city to explore on foot but does have an extensive public transport system.

And to start off a few failures - renovations and repairs can catch us all out.

Firstly the facade of The Prado



The Temple of Debod (200 BC). (Gifted to Spain to save it from the rising waters of the Aswan Dam.) The water was drained, entry closed off and works under-way - only 2,200 years old and requiring maintenance, how dare it.



Leaving these disappointments behind.

The impressive Plaza Mayor - 400 years old



But wait, what's this! Renovations!!!!



The guard at the Royal Place. Interestingly, 3 of the 4 guards at this gateway were women.



Wandering around at night, Madrid was always buzzing. I wanted to sit down at the sidewalk cafes but by this stage of our trip the constant smell of cigarettes hanging outside them was beginning to make me feel unwell and I was unable to stay in such areas very long.



San MIguel market - it was actually a lot less crowded at night.






The fountain in front of Atocha Station

 

[OZDUCK]

(Creating this TR has revealed an interesting/worrying occurrence. Over a dozen photos we distinctly remember taking in Madrid are missing from the memory card in the camera. When I am on holidays I copy our photos to the laptop every few days as a backup and checking back they didn't transfer across either. I am intrigued as to what has happened to them. If it was 1 or 2 I would assume that they have been accidentally deleted but it is far more than that. Hmm?) Anyway ----

As a change of pace a bit of culture will take the place of city views. In Madrid we visited both the Prado and Thyssen museums. The Prado has some fabulous works - I was especially excited to see Velasquez's Las Meninas plus a number of other famous works. However, by this stage of our trip we had began to tire of religious allegories and portraits of ugly Spanish monarchs and nobility and the Prado has more than its fair share of these works. We enjoyed the Thyssen Museum far more even though it can be fairly said that the collection has no overlaying theme but is a collection of "greatest hit"s - yet what hits they are! No photography is allowed in the Prado while the Thyssen was very relaxed - just no flash. The whole collection just goes to show what being a "merchant of death" can do to a families fortunes.

Just a few selections - there are works by almost every famous European painter you can imagine.

This was a bit of a shock recognition after seeing it so many times in TV documentaries - Hans Holbein - Henry V111 (1537)




For lovers of Venice these two large paintings by Canaletto are very evocative. Both 1723-1724

The Grand Canal



St Marks Square




Another portrait I had seen on TV dozens of times - Rembrandt 1642-643



Edgar Degas 1877 -1879 - one of his "Dancer" paintings



Claude Monet - The House among the Roses - 1925



Paul Gauguin - Mata Mua one of his Tahiti paintings 1892



Pretty much instantly recognisable as a John Singer Sargent portrait - Millicent, Duchess of Sutherland 1904. It is near enough to life size.





One of the most modern pieces - and also instantly recognisable. Roy Lichenstein - Woman in Bath 1963




The Thyssen Museum has a fantastic collection that is well displayed. The collection was bought together by Baron Thyssen and his last wife - María del Carmen Rosario Soledad Cervera y Fernández de la Guerra, Dowager Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza de Kászon et Impérfalva - she was Miss Spain in 1961 and her first husband was Lex Barker (aka Tarzan, Lord of the Jungle). There are larger than life size portraits of them in the museum The portraits of Hans Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza and his spouse - The Thyssen in Madrid - Spain the Baron looks the way you would expect but his wife's portrait is something that even the Kardashian's might think was too kitsch.