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C gates EK F lounge in DXB. About to get on the bird to ADD. I was surprised that they allow smoking in the upstairs 'quiet area'. The stench does spread below.
A North Africa and Middle East ramble
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C gates EK F lounge in DXB. About to get on the bird to ADD. I was surprised that they allow smoking in the upstairs 'quiet area'. The stench does spread below.
Wanderlust_tim
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Signed up for this one and looking forward to seeing more. Are you undertaking organised tours?
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Lovely food pics though it seems some were eaten before you managed to take the photos
It must be hard up the front there
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Yes I am.
Wanderlust_tim
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Fantastic, looking forward to reading about it all. Safe travels.
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Good ride DXB-ADD yesterday in the front row of J on an EK B777 with nobody next to me. A very bubbly group of FAs.
Still can't work out how to keep the text before the pics in the new app; also how to set the order of the pics.
Out to explore Addis Ababa today. Coincidence has the major Meskel religious (Christian) festival on today and ADD is apparently the best place to see it.
Live transmission from my phone will soon cease or be ad hoc and limited as I start to take most pics on my camera. I'll compile the systematic TR on my PC when I get home in November.
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On board and looking forward to the next update. (Although I'm down the back rather than 1A.)
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At ADD DOM terminal heading up-country. ET is loaded with B787s.
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View attachment 106904
At ADD DOM terminal heading up-country. ET is loaded with B787s.
At ADD DOM terminal heading up-country. ET is loaded with B787s.
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Just bumping this back into action. Contrary to the expectations of friends and family, I returned in one piece a week ago tonight. Spent all week recovering from a sensational trip, sorting a squillion photos and planning a DONE5 for next year.
TR transmission will resume shortly. At risk of some repetition or subsequent better/more informative pics, I'll work through in a timeline. Too hard otherwise.
At this stage, suffice to say that upon entering Ethiopia, I was handed an AK-47 - to confirm all the stereotypes in the mind of my family and friends. I went for the folding stock version as I've always fancied shooting from the hip . But the image was spoiled by not having the second magazine duct-taped end-to-end with the inserted mag, for the classic quick change after emptying the first (which from what we see so often on TV news footage usually seems to be done into the air or randomly over a parapet). I think they'd run out of duct tape....
For the shooters, like I was at an earlier time, the weapon weighs 5kg, and the magazine takes 30 rounds of 7.62mm cartridges. Nice compact device, a lot different from the .303 of my shooting days. Easy to see why it is so popular. Sadly I didn't get to pull the trigger.
The full story on this will be revealed later...
TR transmission will resume shortly. At risk of some repetition or subsequent better/more informative pics, I'll work through in a timeline. Too hard otherwise.
At this stage, suffice to say that upon entering Ethiopia, I was handed an AK-47 - to confirm all the stereotypes in the mind of my family and friends
. I went for the folding stock version as I've always fancied shooting from the hip . But the image was spoiled by not having the second magazine duct-taped end-to-end with the inserted mag, for the classic quick change after emptying the first (which from what we see so often on TV news footage usually seems to be done into the air or randomly over a parapet). I think they'd run out of duct tape....For the shooters, like I was at an earlier time, the weapon weighs 5kg, and the magazine takes 30 rounds of 7.62mm cartridges. Nice compact device, a lot different from the .303 of my shooting days. Easy to see why it is so popular. Sadly I didn't get to pull the trigger
.The full story on this will be revealed later...
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OK, enough of armaments and protection against quite what I do not know… Backing up to the beginning of the Ethiopia trip…
A little background. Ethiopia covers 1.1M sq km, has a population of over 90M, of which about 65% are Christian. About two thirds of those are Ethiopian Orthodox and Ethiopia was the second country after Armenia to adopt Christianity as its state religion. Orthodox Christians make up the vast majority of northern highlanders, so a large part of what I saw related to their fascinating and deep religious history. I spent a lot of time taking my shoes off to go into churches which, like mosques, have carpets on the floor for which removing of shoes is to prevent soiling.
I found Ethiopia socially benign and places like village markets buzzing, the people wonderfully friendly and very good-humoured, totally safe and the scenery great. English is widely spoken. Coffee originated in Ethiopia and the coffee and its ceremonial making are delights.
The first two nights were in Addis Ababa before a morning flight to Bahir Dar, an afternoon drive to the Blue Nile Falls, a full day boat trip on Lake Tana (the source of the Blue Nile) to explore some of the famed island-based Orthodox monasteries, a circuit by road to the far north (the ‘historical circuit’), which is upland and mountains, then looping south to finish the road component in Lalibela before flying back to Addis Ababa. ADD is at 2300m and I don’t think I got much below that altitude while in Ethiopia, and getting over 3500m at times. The weather was mild to cool for the duration.
By coincidence, the full day in Addis Ababa was the day of the Meskel festival, a highly significant event in the Orthodox calendar. The Meskel celebration includes the burning of a large bonfire, or Demera, based on the belief that Queen Eleni, as she is known, had a revelation in a dream. She was told that she should make a bonfire and that the smoke would show her where the true cross was buried. So she ordered the people of Jerusalem to bring wood and make a huge pile. After adding frankincense to it the bonfire was lit and the smoke rose high up to the sky and returned to the ground, exactly to the spot where the Cross had been buried.
As you will see later, our group had tickets into the central festival area of Meskel Square which was conveniently located about 300m from the central Addis Ababa hotel where we stayed.
Coming into ADD.
Ghion Hotel in Ghion Park. Setting up for after-Meskel party (tents sponsored by St George beer – beer is very popular in Ethiopia. St George is also the patron saint of Ethiopia.) The partying around town went on all night.
Next day and driving past preparations for Meskel on the way to visit some sights. The main bonfire under construction in Meskel Square. Tent for the church top brass. The archbishop of the Indian Orthodox Christian church was the guest of honour. He was in F of my J-cabin EK flight from DXB. Some are more equal than others…
Bonfires or stacks of branches to burn were everywhere. With Meskel preparations under way, the planned visit to Holy Trinity Church, Ethiopia’s main cathedral and home to the remains of Haile Selassie, the last emperor was not possible. We could visit the Menelik’s Mausoleum, the burial place of two earlier emperors. Interesting enough, but the real activity was outside in its grounds on this day as young people, I’m guessing from different churches around Addis came dressed in white to parade and sing. Note the large Galapagos-like tortoises that inhabit the surrounding gardens.
Then it was to the (not very large) Natural History Museum. The major interest for me was the partial skeleton of the famed ‘Lucy’ discovered in 1974 by Don Johansen in the Awash Valley in the Afar region of eastern Ethiopia and named after the Beatles’ ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds’. Contrary to what many people might think, ‘Lucy’ is not a hominid species on the direct line of descent to modern humans. The 3.2M year old skeleton is of Australopithecus afarensis. Its distinguishing characteristic is that while it had the small brain of apes, it was the first known bipedal and upright form and indicated that bipedalism came prior to enlarged brain capacity. The actual bones laid out. A model showing she’s only 105 cm tall – and thanks to Simon, a member of our group, for modelling the size contrast with a modern H. sapiens for me!
The radiation of modern hominids from the region. Pleasant eponymous restaurant in the museum grounds for lunch.
A little background. Ethiopia covers 1.1M sq km, has a population of over 90M, of which about 65% are Christian. About two thirds of those are Ethiopian Orthodox and Ethiopia was the second country after Armenia to adopt Christianity as its state religion. Orthodox Christians make up the vast majority of northern highlanders, so a large part of what I saw related to their fascinating and deep religious history. I spent a lot of time taking my shoes off to go into churches which, like mosques, have carpets on the floor for which removing of shoes is to prevent soiling.
I found Ethiopia socially benign and places like village markets buzzing, the people wonderfully friendly and very good-humoured, totally safe and the scenery great. English is widely spoken. Coffee originated in Ethiopia and the coffee and its ceremonial making are delights.
The first two nights were in Addis Ababa before a morning flight to Bahir Dar, an afternoon drive to the Blue Nile Falls, a full day boat trip on Lake Tana (the source of the Blue Nile) to explore some of the famed island-based Orthodox monasteries, a circuit by road to the far north (the ‘historical circuit’), which is upland and mountains, then looping south to finish the road component in Lalibela before flying back to Addis Ababa. ADD is at 2300m and I don’t think I got much below that altitude while in Ethiopia, and getting over 3500m at times. The weather was mild to cool for the duration.
By coincidence, the full day in Addis Ababa was the day of the Meskel festival, a highly significant event in the Orthodox calendar. The Meskel celebration includes the burning of a large bonfire, or Demera, based on the belief that Queen Eleni, as she is known, had a revelation in a dream. She was told that she should make a bonfire and that the smoke would show her where the true cross was buried. So she ordered the people of Jerusalem to bring wood and make a huge pile. After adding frankincense to it the bonfire was lit and the smoke rose high up to the sky and returned to the ground, exactly to the spot where the Cross had been buried.
As you will see later, our group had tickets into the central festival area of Meskel Square which was conveniently located about 300m from the central Addis Ababa hotel where we stayed.
Coming into ADD.
Ghion Hotel in Ghion Park. Setting up for after-Meskel party (tents sponsored by St George beer – beer is very popular in Ethiopia. St George is also the patron saint of Ethiopia.) The partying around town went on all night.
Next day and driving past preparations for Meskel on the way to visit some sights. The main bonfire under construction in Meskel Square. Tent for the church top brass. The archbishop of the Indian Orthodox Christian church was the guest of honour. He was in F of my J-cabin EK flight from DXB. Some are more equal than others…
Bonfires or stacks of branches to burn were everywhere. With Meskel preparations under way, the planned visit to Holy Trinity Church, Ethiopia’s main cathedral and home to the remains of Haile Selassie, the last emperor was not possible. We could visit the Menelik’s Mausoleum, the burial place of two earlier emperors. Interesting enough, but the real activity was outside in its grounds on this day as young people, I’m guessing from different churches around Addis came dressed in white to parade and sing. Note the large Galapagos-like tortoises that inhabit the surrounding gardens.
Then it was to the (not very large) Natural History Museum. The major interest for me was the partial skeleton of the famed ‘Lucy’ discovered in 1974 by Don Johansen in the Awash Valley in the Afar region of eastern Ethiopia and named after the Beatles’ ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds’. Contrary to what many people might think, ‘Lucy’ is not a hominid species on the direct line of descent to modern humans. The 3.2M year old skeleton is of Australopithecus afarensis. Its distinguishing characteristic is that while it had the small brain of apes, it was the first known bipedal and upright form and indicated that bipedalism came prior to enlarged brain capacity. The actual bones laid out. A model showing she’s only 105 cm tall – and thanks to Simon, a member of our group, for modelling the size contrast with a modern H. sapiens for me!
The radiation of modern hominids from the region. Pleasant eponymous restaurant in the museum grounds for lunch.
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Late afternoon and the Meskel Festival is building up. As mentioned, we had entry to the main arena of Meskel Square which is really just a major road closed off. Some of the priests’ robes were quite ornate and colourful while most of the general participants wore white. Various groups paraded in over the course of the evening. Several of our group, including me, were even interviewed on Ethiopian TV! The roving reporter and camera crew seemed to delight in targeting foreigners for their impressions.
Then there was a series of performances in front of the church hierarchy, including the visiting Indian archbishop. Some groups adopted colour-coded throwovers.
Getting ready to light the Demera. The people in the outer were lighting up hand-held brush torches – under the massive condom advertising billboard... Up it goes.
Then there was a series of performances in front of the church hierarchy, including the visiting Indian archbishop. Some groups adopted colour-coded throwovers.
Getting ready to light the Demera. The people in the outer were lighting up hand-held brush torches – under the massive condom advertising billboard... Up it goes.
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So not quite burning man then
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BJR (Bahir Dar). Tidy little regional airport. Driving into town. Street scenes in this tidy, sub-tropical-feel town. It was goat market day.
Heading out of town to the Blue Nile Falls. The picture of carts with long poles and the background of endless Eucalyptus globulus (Tasmanian bluegum) forests was to be repeated constantly through the region travelled. In the past I’ve done some work in the plantation eucalypt business, so it was interesting to see how important the trees have clearly become in the local economy of the northern part of Ethiopia.
Eucalypts were introduced to Ethiopia in 1909 and, like so many places overseas (think Chile, Brazil, Portugal, Madagascar) they grow like weeds. Only in Ethiopia have I seen such diversity of use – not just for chipping (eg. Chile) or firewood (eg. Madagascar). The picture will emerge as the TR proceeds.
Walking in to the Blue Nile Falls across a 17th century Portuguese stone bridge.
Quite a way further on, the falls. The Blue Nile meets the White Nile at Khartoum in Sudan (already on my booked list for next year), and provides 85% of the flow of the Nile.
A long suspension bridge leads over the gorge to the falls side but we didn’t have enough time to do that.
Heading out of town to the Blue Nile Falls. The picture of carts with long poles and the background of endless Eucalyptus globulus (Tasmanian bluegum) forests was to be repeated constantly through the region travelled. In the past I’ve done some work in the plantation eucalypt business, so it was interesting to see how important the trees have clearly become in the local economy of the northern part of Ethiopia.
Eucalypts were introduced to Ethiopia in 1909 and, like so many places overseas (think Chile, Brazil, Portugal, Madagascar) they grow like weeds. Only in Ethiopia have I seen such diversity of use – not just for chipping (eg. Chile) or firewood (eg. Madagascar). The picture will emerge as the TR proceeds.
Walking in to the Blue Nile Falls across a 17th century Portuguese stone bridge.
Quite a way further on, the falls. The Blue Nile meets the White Nile at Khartoum in Sudan (already on my booked list for next year
), and provides 85% of the flow of the Nile. A long suspension bridge leads over the gorge to the falls side but we didn’t have enough time to do that.
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Next day it was onto a boat on Lake Tana (3500 sq km) to visit two of the (many) island monasteries. Most date from the 13th and 14th centuries, although the current buildings were erected later. Because of their isolation they were used to store art and religious treasures over the centuries to avoid pillage by invaders.
The first, three hours up the lake, was Narga Selassie on Dek Island.
Nothing very spectacular from the outside, although in a very peaceful setting on the isolated island, the monastery comes into its own with fabulous artwork on the inside.
Basically, the artwork on the outside walls of the priest-only inner sanctum (or ‘holy of holies’) tells biblical stories in a clear, colourful, wordless way that was used to teach the illiterate congregation – so even I could follow the story-telling. It was very captivating. The stories worked their way around the circular room surrounding the holy of holies. Carpets on the floor meant shoes off. I think I’ll indulge myself in fond memories as I bore my reader with quite a few pics…
A pleasant picnic lunch followed near some of the traditional canoes. The paddler sits on the cluster of sticks seen next to the canoe in the middle pic.
The first, three hours up the lake, was Narga Selassie on Dek Island.
Nothing very spectacular from the outside, although in a very peaceful setting on the isolated island, the monastery comes into its own with fabulous artwork on the inside.
Basically, the artwork on the outside walls of the priest-only inner sanctum (or ‘holy of holies’) tells biblical stories in a clear, colourful, wordless way that was used to teach the illiterate congregation – so even I could follow the story-telling. It was very captivating. The stories worked their way around the circular room surrounding the holy of holies. Carpets on the floor meant shoes off. I think I’ll indulge myself in fond memories as I bore my reader with quite a few pics…
A pleasant picnic lunch followed near some of the traditional canoes. The paddler sits on the cluster of sticks seen next to the canoe in the middle pic.
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Then it was back on the boat to work our way back to Bahir Dar via the Ura Kidane Meret monastery and the outflow into the Blue Nile.
Ura Kidane Meret is a 20-minute walk from the boat landing through forest with a lot of naturally-growing coffee plants.
This monastery is very plain from the outside but the artwork inside is again mesmerising.
In contrast to the isolated Narga Selassie, there were plenty of souvenir-sellers on the longer path to the Ura Kidane Meret but they were not overly pushy and good-natured about it. Some of them painted copies of the artwork in the monasteries, so I couldn’t resist a small St George painted onto goat skin. The little tacker helping her mum exemplifies Ethiopians.
Where the Blue Nile begins its flow out of Lake Tana. In the channel looking back to the lake. The canoes are super-buoyant for the reed-harvesters! Then it was back to the lakeside hotel for a few well-deserved St Georges after a great day out.
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Oops, one of the pics was out of order in the previous post and another duplicated. Won't try to fiddle with it.
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