A Kimberley coast and offshore reefs kaleidoscope

We shuttled off the ‘Explorers’ on rotation into Zodiacs to get closer to the wildlife.

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Dorky looking baby coughy.

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Lesser frigate birds also were abundant, patrolling higher up.

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I didn’t take food photos apart from these that were the meat, fish and vegetarian mains that night, indicative of the style of the excellent food offering.

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The next day’s destination was scheduled to be Montgomery Reef, the 400 sq km reef noted for becoming exposed with spectacular effect as the tide ebbs. However, the first medical issue requiring an evacuation meant a detour to Koolan Island so the patient could be taken ashore at about midnight for evacuation by the RFDS.

The net effect was to reverse the order of the scheduled visit locations over the next couple of days, so nothing was lost.

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Koolan Island has long been mined for its particularly high-grade iron ore, with the deposit extending below sea level, necessitating a seawall to prevent flooding. The mine, sea wall and loading facility are at the wider west end of The Canal which separates Koolan Island from the mainland.

We spent the day anchored off the island, with a morning excursion to view the mine area and surrounding Iron Islands, and a late afternoon excursion to Nares Point to view the amazing geology and have drinks on the beach.

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Morning, and the tide is at its clearly visible minimum of 0.1m at Koolan Island and the small Iron Islands, later to rise to 10.4m by mid-afternoon.

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The tide was rising fast and strongly eddying as we turned back during the morning excursion to land on one of the Iron Islands.

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And a Google Maps screenshot from our mooring off Koolan Island, that I had mis-filed into the next day, showing the narrow E end of The Canal, the mine and the Iron Islands to the left front of the view.

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Next day, Montgomery Reef, a massive 400 sq km and the world’s largest inshore reef (Montgomery Reef - Wikipedia.)

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High tide was 10.8m at 0230CST, low tide 0.4m at 0855CST. That made our visit coincide with about the greatest range that occurs there. At maximum high tide, the reef is about 4-5m underwater, so we were destined to see it in the morning at maximum exposure.

When I went in 2012, we anchored nearby at high tide and watched the Atlantis-like effect of the reef seemingly rising out of the ocean. Whichever way it’s viewed, it is an extraordinary and iconic Kimberley spectacle.

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Sunrise.

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Some tidal action in the distance and crossing paths with the older and smaller sister ship Coral Discoverer (70 pax).

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The Zodiacs heading over to the reef for the shuttling off the ‘Explorers’ to take a closer look at the water gushing off the reef.

There is a long channel that runs into the reef for the main viewing.

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Afternoon excursion along the mangroves at high tide, up to Ruby Falls for those who wanted to climb up for a swim. The lower pool, that I swam in in 2012, is now considered too risky because of crocodiles.

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Mangrove seed. They germinate while on the tree, then drop, to spear into the mud for establishment.

Then a large bat colony.

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The ship then moved back around to the upper reaches of Talbot Bay, mooring directly off the entry gap to Horizontal Falls, another Kimberley icon (Horizontal Falls - Wikipedia.)

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The Falls has long been a destination for boats and aircraft day trips from Broome and Derby to do a thrill-seeker ride through the gaps. However, following a bad crash there last year, mandated restrictions may be applied (Tourism companies warned they could be stopped from passing through iconic Horizontal Falls.)

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We were told that going through the inner Falls was not permitted. However, I did not enquire as to whether that was now government mandated or whether Coral Expeditions, which is licensed to operate there, had self-imposed the restriction.

Ultimately, what we did going through the outer Falls in Zodiacs really amounted to doing a few whippies and donuts in the fast-eddying water when the tide had reached quite a low point. We weren’t permitted to take photos as four points of contact were required.

I’ve been through before at a greater flow, so later I’ll put in some pics from that for information.

A beautiful morning – again. High tide 10.4m at 0454CST; low tide 0.8m at 1118CST. We started running the Zodiacs in quick shuttles a little after 0900h.

Aptly-named Slug Island behind the ship.

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In come the day-trippers. I think four floatplanes arrived in fairly quick succession. After touching down, they taxied around the corner to their pontoon.

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The Zodiacs with the seats were used to take eight pax at a time through the outer Falls; the other Zodiac was the camera platform. Typical rope handholds along the hull of the Zodiacs, with a central rope to complete the double hand-hold.

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Getting ready for our turn.

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Camera away, then back to the ship after our ride.

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During the morning the Ponant LeSoleal came in to anchor behind us.

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After lunch we went for an excursion in the ‘Explorers’ to the upper reaches of Talbot Bay, including going into the lagoon to view the Falls.

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From my 2012 trip:

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And holding station on the wave. Yee-hah! None of this wimpy 2023 stuff!

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Basalt intrusions and an unusual termite mound.

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White-quilled rock pigeons.

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Back to the ship and it was BBQ Night on the top Vista Deck. The floatplanes were departing.

Later to watch sharks cruising around the stern of the ship.

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