A F Indulgence, 3 Lakes, Black Forest, Dolomites & A Bit Of Other Stuff

[Nizar]

Thanks for the trip report, good to see what TG is like in F

 

[RB]

Our first full day in Gengenbach dawned as cloudy but dry. Our main holiday objective is to maintain our walking regime so we planned a couple of local walks (probably around 18km total plus miscellaneous wandering around town) for our first day. Our tourist office provided info plus our Garmin Oregon ( not sure of the capabilites of it’s driver) lets us follow the Talerpfad Variante 2 walk that took in a riverside stroll & also a higher meander through forests interspersed with magic valley views. During our wanderings I did notice a horse trailer with a “Turnierpferde” sticker on the back- I actually interpreted it as “turn a feed into xx_x “ but apparently it means “show horses”! Back in town we made our own lunch from supermarket supplies. Our afternoon walk was to Pfaffenbach via another scenic route that took in churches ( Wirtschaftsweg) forest, country trails & roads & the ever present running streams. We came across a paddock of very rugged looking ponies that looked like they received no handling. We arrived back at the apartment about 20 minutes before a very light rain shower (the only rain of the day). Dinner was at Restaurant Winzerstuble, again in near isolation. We enjoyed a couple of nice meals that seemed to be on nicer ingredients-Pork Schnitzel & Salad & a Senior Winzerfleisch. Our Citibank debit card was accepted but had to sign rather than pin.
Wonderful valley for a walk in the Black Forest foothills
Great track & plenty of variety
Kinzig River in full flow
Horses really aren't just turners
Obviously gets cold in winter

 

[RB]

Our next day dawned fine & sunny! It was a train, walk & bus day. At Triberg we climbed the various tracks that gave us great views of the famed waterfalls-they were certainly flowing well. There are also certainly plenty of shops willing to sell you a clock! We also walked the town & had XXL coffees & fantastic Black Forest cake & apple strudel. We then had a rapid bus ride to Gulach, a quick look at this very old valley & then we walked to Hausach-a clear, well signposted downhill track through more fine countryside. Hausach is the host of a magnificent model railway- a 400sq m model of the Black Forest railway at a scale of 1:87, complete with houses, campgrounds, train stations, road traffic, rescue helicopters, grazing animals, police patrols etc-. They even change the light to depict night scenes. From there it was a very crowded (1[SUP]st[/SUP] time) regional train ride back to our “home” town where the markets were just winding up. At our farmhouse we are given a private viewing of their 5 very well looked after horses-magnificent specimens adorned with huge chestnuts-Aparently Schwarzwalder Fuchse breed (Black Forest Chesnut or Small working horses). We had dinner at Bistro Schatull. We had a Maultaschen & a Holzhackerbrett both big, good meals. My beer was served in a stein-an exclusive to Bitburger in this spot-cash only here, the same as the town supermarket.
Just part of the impresssive Triberg falls
There is actually a fair climb & a reasonable walk to see all of the falls
Very impressive model railway
I did say we only got back for the end of the markets!
Always have time to pat a horse

 

[RB]

Our last full day in Gengenbach was a magical, sunny day. Our main activity was a bus/walk/bus/train trip linking Berghaupten, Diersburg Offenburg & Gengenbach. The walk from Berghaupten & Diersberg varied from flat, open paths to higher, forest shaded dirt tracks. We only came across about 6 other people & enjoyed the serenity & great views.
Back at Gengenbach we time our run to enjoy a lunch from the butchers- great slice of cooked meat on a bun with optional mustard. Dinner is again at Bistro Schatull for another 2 nice meals.
Great markets in Gengenbach
Still on the edge of the Black Forest
Early in the season & so few people encountered
Final descent into Diersberg
Chimney top dwellers in Gengenbach

 

[RB]

Gengenbach to Mettlach
We opted out of the hosts lift to the station & made the 10 minute walk & came across many schoolkids making an early start to the day. We have wanted to see the Saar Bend ever since we were sent some video of it a couple of years ago.
Trains were all nearly on time (5 minutes delay only) and we arrived in Mettlach a little after 12. Our ICE got to 249 km per hour today so nearly flying. The soil through much of this area seems less fertile but has not deterred the German farmers. We continue to see an amazing array of solar panels- last night on the tv there was news of anti-dumping measures being taken against Chinese solar panel manufacturers-eventually around a 47% slug. We crossed the flooded Rhine in Mannheim and are hoping the floods that are badly affecting Eastern Germany will not slow us up. The section from Saarbrucken to Mettlach saw us pass through much more industrial activity & we saw a very interesting mix of locals using the local train. The walk from the station to our hotel is around 10 minutes although we have a bit of a problem locating the exact spot.


Around Mettlach –
This is a pretty little town on the Saar–there are some impressive “You Tube” clips promoting the area. Today the town is full of shoppers looking for outlet household dinner sets etc – lovely stuff but a bit hard to fit in the luggage so it will have to stay in Germany! There is a narrow line of restaurants/cafes/ice cream outlets that seem to cater to the wants of the visitor- a mix of bus trippers & Nordic walkers & trail bike riders (some pretty flat options available for the voracious ice cream eaters)
We spotted a river cruise boat from our balcony and decided to take the 2.30 pm cruise- over the 90 minutes we counted at least 7 ducks, lots of trees and turned at the open cut mine. We shared with a couple of bus tours drinking a fair bit of beer-maybe to break the boredom. Oh well, it served a purpose. We followed this with a short walk up to the locks on the river.
No chilled beer available for me at the supermarket so I opted for a fill-in of JW red at 10.99 Euro for 700ml. We also bought some piccolo bottles of sparkling wine that are set the task of testing the capabilities of our minibar. The quality of the wine is proclaimed as fine by Mrs RB. Our 1st night venture to Da Pietra, right on the main drag, is overall excellent- a nice pizza at 7 Euro & a fantastic Spaghetti Scampi at 10 Euro along with a cold pils & a dry frascati round out a nice day for us. The town seems to close up at 9pm (at least mid-week) so I find some kick boxing on the tv for some entertainment-very interesting scenario when one boxer falls prone on his face after a misplaced kick catches him in the groin-his cornerman jumps in and gives him a vigorous massage to both buttocks! Not sure of the medical diagnosis, but he does eventually get up.

I have posted a review of our Mettlach apartment here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....ews/guesthouse-schlurmann-mettlach-52407.html

Heading downstream from Mettlach
Locks just above Mettlach
Villeroy & Boch have a huge presence in Mettlach
Pizza & spaghetti scampi

 

[RB]

Another fine & hot day dawns so we opt to hike uphill through the bush to the Saar Bend (Cloef Vantage Point). There are some great views on the way with very few others on the track. The end point only has about 15 other people there so it is easy to get photos & a good look down onto the river.
We opt to hike back as well & the Garmin sends us along a shorter inland track so we are back at Mettlach for a light lunch. There is the option to drive to a parking spot pretty close to the vantage point or travel by public bus from Mettlach
We wander to the local brewery for a sample of their environmentally produced brew- they have a big sign up calculating the solar & CO2 savings they have made. It is then time for a spell & to watch Djokovic & Nadal play in the semi in Paris.

Another fine dinner at Da Pietra follows & we discover they are from Palermo Sicily.
On the way to the famous bend
We made it
I imagine this spot gets pretty crowded in prime time
There is the option to scramble right down to the river
Mettlach's new brewery-not a fan of their beer

 

[ellen10]

Really enjoying your trip report.
We are doing a similar trip in September. Flying in to Milan and spending 3 nights in Bellagio, Then 8 nights in Switzerland followed by 3 nights in Gengenbach and 7 in Cochem on the Mosel.
So your trip report and photos are great for our trip planning.
What day are the markets in Gengenbach? We too will have an apartment and I love stocking up on local produce.

 

[RB]

Really enjoying your trip report.
We are doing a similar trip in September. Flying in to Milan and spending 3 nights in Bellagio, Then 8 nights in Switzerland followed by 3 nights in Gengenbach and 7 in Cochem on the Mosel.
So your trip report and photos are great for our trip planning.
What day are the markets in Gengenbach? We too will have an apartment and I love stocking up on local produce.

There was a general market on the Tues that had a bit of everything & then on the Wed there was flowers, fruit & vegies as the main focus. I will be posting some Cochem stuff in the next couple of days. I think you saw my old trip report where post 7 was about Cochem http://www.australianfrequentflyer....nas-francs-europe-30408.html?highlight=cochem

 

[ellen10]

Thanks RB for the market day update.
I can't believe I missed your previous trip report, I will eagerly read it tonight after work.
Ellen

 

[RB]

Mettlach to Cochem
We very rarely revisit places in Europe but opted to see Cochem again after a nice visit in 2011. The move is a 2 train short transfer using a Rheinland-Pfalz ticket that I had read about on the net-much cheaper than a standard ticket for 2 adults. As has been the custom on this trip, the trains are spot on time & then we wander about 10 minutes back to the centre of town to our apartment for the next 4 nights.


Around Cochem
Our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] stop is to walk to the supermarket to get breakfast supplies & to top up our fridge-prices are pretty similar although wine is even cheaper than previously-only 4 Euro for good sparkling. Bar & restaurant prices are a little higher than the Black Forest & 400 seems to replace 500mm for beer size. We also call into the Toff Toff bar where we had enjoyed good times previously. The plan was for a quick drink before a rest but our entry to the bar coincided with a visit by a lively group from Dortmund & our nap was pushed into the background. We got re-aquantated with the bar owners who we have sent post cards to since our prior visit. We are also given a royal tour of their new apartment rebuild that apparently takes up their time in winter & will soon be an alternative income for them.

A basic schnitzel meal does the job the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] night before a visit to Toff Toff-totally crowded with heaps of beer drinking songs being sung loudly-well led by a group of blokes from Belgium.
The Sunday is a wet, dull day so we do a slow walk among the shops & generally have a quiet time. It is interesting to note that as with many other small towns, the supermarket is closed on a Sunday & other shops run shortened hours. We found Cochem to have a good variety of shops and there was very good value in buying belts & wallets althouggh quality was variable. Dinner was at Restaurant Akropolis a relatively new restaurant that was hghly recommended by our local friends-I had a Mykonos Pfanne-turkey in a nice spicy sauce while Mrs RB has Bifteki Jemisto-huge beef patty stuffed nicely with Fetta. Both meals include a big separate salad & with garlic bread, 2Xbeer & 2Xwine the bill is just over 40 Euro.

I have posted a link to our Cochem apartment here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....ences-and-reviews/moselhaus-cochem-52437.html
Easy to find your way around
The river was surprisingly calm along here
Sweet tooth catering
Buy your booze flavours by the litre
View from apartment

 

[RB]

Monday’s weather is a repeat of Sunday so 1[SUP]st[/SUP] up we use the apartment building washing machine that does a good job of getting rid of the smoke smell saturating our clothes after visits to the bars. Another lazy day of town walking results as the bad weather hangs around-still much better than the horrible flooding further east in Europe. Dinner is at Dazert-recommended by Toff Toff as a traditional German restaurant where the meals are cooked from scratch by the husband & wife team (apparently quite of the Cochem restaurants now share kitchens & the quality of ingredients & sauces have faced cuts as prices are kept low). The 2 meals we had we indeed a step up from what we had at Restaurant Ellis on the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] night-quality meat, nice sauces & efficient service.
Our 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] morning sees the sun fighting it’s way through the low cloud. Our early walk is on the western side of the Mosel, rising up over the railway station & giving us some nice views back to Cochem. We have an 11am date to visit “Schunk’sche Haus” at nearby Bruttig-an old castle acquired by our friends at the Toff Toff and currently being refurbished. This is on a huge scale & filled with some originals from around the 1660’s & other bric a brac they have collected over time. The staircase is apparently the only one of its design/vintage still in Germany. It is an interesting interlude that included a taxi ride along a section of the river we had not seen previously & Bruttig seems to be another of the 1000’s of nice little towns throughout Germany.
Views from above Cochem
Beautiful walk along the river with Reichsburg castle in background
One of the dining rooms in the Bruttig house
External view of The Bruttig residence

 

[RB]

On our return from Bruttig we clamber part of the hill on the Cond side of the river & this also gives us good views of the town, Reichsburg Castle & the surrounds of Cochem.
We had attributed the lack of river barges on the Mosel to the flooding on the Rhine. However apparently each year there is 1 week where the Mosel is closed & total maintenance of the river system is carried out-the river re-opened on our last full day.
After some great Asian meals from restaurants in Europe we decided to have a take-away on our last night. We got 3 huge servings from Asia Wok (freshly made in a little kitchen while we waited alongside) & then ate as we sat on our balcony overlooking the Mosel. Then it was last drinks at the Toff Toff bar before our next day transfer to Neckargemund
View from the Cond side of the Mosel
Quiet time at the Toff Toff
This is a great bar when the music is up & the different nationalities are singing

 

[Magpie10]

Thanks RB for an absolutely wonderful TR, never been to Germany so yourTR is wetting my appetite, scenery magnificent, so thanks again.

 

[ellen10]

I have gone back and read your previous trip report as well. Lots of good information.
The Toff Toff bar. Is it in the main part of Cochem? Sounds fun and a place we will have to put on our list.
Loving the pictures as well.
I looked up your apartment, whilst we have a B&B booked, I must admit it is tempting. Prices would be similar.
Only 6 weeks until we leave.

 

[RB]

Cochem to Neckargemund
We have another train connection with 2 transfers that give us comfortable timings between switches. We had one delay of about 5 minutes but this had no impact on us. We got to see Koblenz station again (Rhine & Mosel junction) and the train from Koblenz to Mannheim (through Mainz) afforded us great views of the somewhat flooded Rhine-not too bad and still within the main banks & passenger ferries & barges were still running. Our 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] leg from Mannheim to Neckargemund is basically a commuter train that passes through Heidelberg. As with around Cochem it is quite evident that there is much less take-up of solar (commercial & domestic) than further down south.


Around Neckargemund
We had arrived under stormy looking clouds (nothing eventuated) but it was a comfortably warm day. We wandered to the new looking supermarket right near the train station to stock up on breakfast supplies & a few drinks to have while enjoying the view from the apartment. We also got some cheese & salamani from the previously visited butchers shop. We had a bit of a surveillance walk around the relatively small central area to take in our new surrounds. Our first nights dinner at the Trip Advisor recommended Alte Scheune was a pleasant experience sitting outside & served well by efficient staff who located an English menu for us. The food on this night was similar to a bistro style golf club meal you would get back in Aust in a country town.

I have posted a review of our Neckargemund apartment here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....euerwehr-old-firestation-apartment-52468.html

Just outside our apartment
Our apartment building
Apparently one of the older buildings in Neckargemund
One of the main streets of the Old Town area
Old Town gate

 

[Hvr]

Thanks for your great TR, I do know how hard they are and appreciate the work you've done to share your trip.

 

[RB]

Our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] full day in Neckargemund was a fine, hot day so we donned the walking shoes & headed to Dilsberg Castle. This was a great walk-1[SUP]st [/SUP]along the river within the town limits and then uphill along lanes that ran through pony & sheep paddocks until we reached the peak. As expected there were great district views & we enjoyed a stroll around the whole complex. We made our way down via a different path through the forest & emerged at the river lock near Neckarsteinach. We had a look around Central Neckarsteinach and were impressed by a very attractive little spot on the river. Our walk back was on the other side of the river & we enjoyed views of the 4 castles & a different perspective on Dilsberg. We also passed the sporting fields & swimming pool which is apparently a bit of a standout complex. We got to meet our host & he reveals he once lived in Brisbane.
A very fast moving storm caused a bit of havoc over dinner time & outdoor dining was quickly ceased.
On the way to Dilsberg-looking back to Neckargemund
Made it to Dilsberg
Part of the Castle grounds
View of castles from near Neckarsteinach
View back up to Dilsberg-sense of achievement of our walk

 

[RB]

Another fine day after some early fog so we attempted to use the washing machine (clothes came out clean but still wet) & then decided to walk from Neckargemund to Konigstuhl which is above Heidelberg and linked to Heidelberg by a funicular. The uphill walk through forest was pleasant enough & most of the time on clear tracks with good footing. There was only 1 lookout area on the whole walk-view back to Neckargemund & on a corner of the river at Kummelbacherof. We saw only 1 other person prior to our arrival at Konigstuhl.

Konigstuhl did provide fantastic views over Heidelberg & the Rhine plains & there was a small museum for the funicular. Then it was a ride down via 2 funicular to the Heidelberg Castle area. Our 6.50 Euro ticket got us the rides plus access to the Castle museum area. There were certainly plenty to be seen & I found the pharmac_ museum pretty appealing. We also located the largest wine barrel/tun in the world ( around 220,000 litres) & enjoyed the views over the city & the Neckar river. We then traipsed further down the hill & wandered around this university city-this was the most people we had come across on our trip so far. According to Wikitravel the Hauptstrasse is Germany’s longest pedestrian shopping street-a modern centre so close to the history we had just viewed. Rather than wait 50 minutes for a river cruise back to Neckargemund we opted for the bus whose route pretty well hugged the river anyway (we had also viewed a lot of this on our train arrival).

View down to Heidelberg & Rhine plain
Part of funicular museum
Entry to Castle Museum
Ongoing works
Plenty of views

 

[RB]

Part of the pharmac_ museum
View down from the castle
220,000 litres but hard to photograph
Bon Scott tribute show

That night there was a town concert of 3 bands headlined by a AC/DC tribute group-the first 2 groups were so so (think Yellow River etc by the solo 1[SUP]st[/SUP] artist) but the star attractions certainly did a good job of entertaining a very diverse crowd. The footy club did the catering & there were 2 island bars that were kept very busy. We gained a good vantage point up in the churchyard. The night wound up about 2am-no incidents we saw despite only 2 security, kids there all night standing right at the bar & no worries about the river right at the back of the stage-bit different to how things are now done in Aust.

 

[RB]

Our last day in Neckargemund was a Saturday. After a late night we were slow starters although we were woken early by the town market vendors jockeying for position in the car park near the apartment. There were the fruit & veggie, butcher, cheese, herbs, olives, flowers and even a fish vendor that had a fantastic array of fresh seafood. We took a wander towards Heidelberg that took us through the riverside caravan park-as with modern Aust, many have all the mod cons with their satellite tv etc & they certainly have a prime bit of real estate to camp on here. We turned back & headed towards the swimming pool complex. This is a great facility for the size of the local population. After been granted free entry to have a look around we noted 3 separate, big pools, provisions for lane training & a great slide for the young & not so young. Only downside we saw was that there were a couple of ducks that were attracted to the complex but they did suffer from having rakes thrown at them by staff to get them back to the river! Lunch was at Onkel’s Pizza & Doner Service - an incredibly neat & tidy establishment with inside & outside table, a full bar service if required. They really hit the mark with our doner on flat bread and a hamburger with pommes. While on our walk I came across a 1[SUP]st[/SUP] for me-bought a 0.5l bottle of beer that was not only a plastic bottle but also sealed by a resealable screw cap.
With a bit of an early start tomorrow for our trip to the Dolomites we have a lazy afternoon & get our bags a bit better organised.
A return visit to the Alte Scheune was rewarded with a much nicer meal - had a great pork steak dish with crusted bacon in potatoes & a lot of garlic!-obviously the conservative choice on the first night was the wrong way to go.

Caravaners/Campers get some prime spots in Europe
Part of the pool complex in a town of less than 14,000