A drive through north-west France

Next day, Rennes to Caen, via the old town of Vitre and as I was passing by, a stop at Avranches to see the Scriptorium and the Mont St Michel manuscripts.

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Vitré, population about 20,000 is the 37th French city with the most historic buildings and has 14% of the historical monuments of the Ille-et-Vilaine department.

"If I was not King of France, I want to be bourgeois from Vitré!" Henry IV, King of France, surprised by the richness of the city in 1598.

Wikipedia

A stone castle was built in 1070 by Robert Ier on the current site, on a rocky outcrop dominating the Vilaine's river valley. Certain parts of the original stone castle are still visible today.

In the 13th century, the castle was enlarged and equipped with robust towers and curtain walls. The castle integrated into the triangular outcrop of rock on which it was built a structure in the style of the castles of Philip II August. Late in the century, in 1295, the town passed to Guy IX de Laval, on his marriage with the heiress, and afterwards successively belonged to the families of Rieux, Coligny and La Trémoille. During this period, the "Vieil Bourg" including the church of Nôtre-Dame, developed on the eastern side of Vitré. The city was encircled by fortified ramparts and ditches. It was at this time that the "walled city" took its current form.

The chateau certainly is impressive, From the town:

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From outside the walls. Imaging being a peasant, looking up at that every day,

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An old mill

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And streets round the town. As usual, I was early (9:30am) and the place was barely stirring.

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Rue de la poterie (porches, again)

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Maison de l'isle (Island house) is a single dwelling with roads on all 4 sides. Double corbelling (projection out over the street) apparently extremely rare in Brittany.

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Naturally there is a church - in this case Church of Our Lady of Vitré. The history is complex but in general follows the familiar pattern of establishment around the 12th century, changes and rebuilds, ransacking during the Revolution and restoration after that.

The current main doorway has a transom is adorned with depictions of the Crucifixion and the apostles Peter , Paul , John , and Andrew . A laurel wreath, the date 1586, and two merchants' marks complete this elaborate decoration.

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The choir

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A wooden, barrel roof , restored in the 19th century

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Outside pulpit! 15th century, probably erected so sermons could be read on feast-days, when the church would be overflowing.

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Embellished by these guys. This one perhaps representing the Trinity, banned by the pope in those times. They missed this one?

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Onto Avranches and my second attempt to see the ancient manuscripts from Mont St Michel. It wasn't like I was expecting.

Paid the fee and then entered a large concrete complex, with many wall displays explaining aspects of medieval times. Mostly in French but some with English as well. Some artifact displays. A lot designed for kids learning and as usual, there was a (very loud) school group there which I managed to get ahead of, as I had no interest in the displays.

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Except this - St Michael himself, 13 century. Doesn't look as though he would hurt a fly - let alone slay a dragon.

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At last:

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There were about 8 manuscript books on display in illuminated cabinets in a very dark room. All hand written, remember.

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Each had a panel of description, but only in French. Really bugs me - a world class, almost unique display and only readers of French can be better informed. :mad: But where there is a will, there is Google translate.


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Onto Avranches and my second attempt to see the ancient manuscripts from Mont St Michel. It wasn't like I was expecting.

Paid the fee and then entered a large concrete complex, with many wall displays explaining aspects of medieval times. Mostly in French but some with English as well. Some artifact displays. A lot designed for kids learning and as usual, there was a (very loud) school group there which I managed to get ahead of, as I had no interest in the displays.

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Except this - St Michael himself, 13 century. Doesn't look as though he would hurt a fly - let alone slay a dragon.

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At last:

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There were about 8 manuscript books on display in illuminated cabinets in a very dark room. All hand written, remember.

View attachment 512012

Each had a panel of description, but only in French. Really bugs me - a world class, almost unique display and only readers of French can be better informed. :mad: But where there is a will, there is Google translate.


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Time to learn medieval French! :)
 
Impressions?

It’s OK for a small car and a relatively cheap rental. Great on- board guidance system. Boot only just takes a ( on the small side) checked bag and a carry-on.

Any difference between medieval and modern french language?

I would guess some at least, but no idea. Maybe @esseeeayeenn might know.

Time to learn French!

I did - at school, and again when I lived in Quebec 20 years so. Now, GIMF.
 
Yep, learn Québécois..! 😉

Yes, when I lived there, I learned 'le lunch' and 'le bench' (may have been la bench?? 🤣 ). 'Gros Black SVP' ('Black' being the local dark beer ...)

Technical story, but there is a rock formation we call 'boudinage' . If you look at in cross-section its layers occasionally look like they've been pinched and then swell out again.

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I went on a geology excursion once - separate English and French groups. The French explanation would always take longer, so when ours finished, I wandered over.

"Blah, blah ... voila! Une 'pinch and swell structure ..." 🤣
 
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