A dry holiday to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

A bus with no seatbelts, out to the desert, where they put you on angry "horses", send you underground on a dodgy ladder, and then on to a massive knife edged cliff.
Imagine explaining that to your travel insurance provider ahead of time.
you forgot to mention virus infested bats.
 
After a couple of days in Riyadh, it was time to fly to Jeddah. I chose Saudia for this flight as it wasn't too much more expensive than the budget options once I added a checked bag, and I figured I might get some SkyTeam benefits from my ITA Airways status. This was a paid economy class ticket with a 7pm departure time.

The RUH-JED route is clearly a popular one as Saudia literally has a flight every hour - including during the night. Flyadeal and Flynas also have regular service.

My flight was on a Boeing 777-300ER, but Saudia uses pretty much every one of its aircraft types on this route connecting the airline's two hubs, which are also Saudi Arabia's two largest cities.

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Check-in in Terminal 5, a new building which handles most domestic flights, was super efficient. I was able to use the fast-track line as my ITA status was still recognised as SkyTeam Elite Plus back when I took this flight in late January. (ITA has since left SkyTeam.)

There were airline staff checking everyone's hand luggage at the entrance to the security checkpoint. I thought that was quite smart - it prevents people taking excess baggage to the gate, and doing it before security means that people still have an opportunity to return to the counter to check in excess bags.

I half expected that the security queues would be split into male and female lines, but this was not the case.

At the time I took this flight, SkyTeam Elite Plus status did not get you into lounges on purely domestic itineraries. I thought I'd try my luck with the Saudia lounge, but nope - was rejected at the door. This rule changed on 1 April 2025, so if you're flying this route in the future and have SkyTeam Elite Plus status (from an airline other than ITA), you would be allowed in.

I instead used Priority Pass to get into the Hayyak Lounge. This was fine - probably not as nice as Saudia's lounge but had comfortable chairs and an OK buffet. Tea, Arabic coffee, soft drinks and water were also available.

A call to prayer was played over the loudspeakers in the lounge at the relevant time.

For this flight, Saudia had set up two completely separate boarding gates for business class and economy. At the somewhat chaotic economy boarding gate, the staff did a good job - against all odds - of enforcing the boarding zones. I had zone 1 boarding through my SkyTeam status.

On board, Saudia has a 3-3-3 layout in economy with fairly comfortable leather seats and decent legroom. This is one of the more spacious economy layouts out there, although not quite as comfortable as the likes of SQ or JL. It occurred to me that it's quite unusual to see leather seats on a 777.

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There was a seatback in-flight entertainment screen at every seat.

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We started boarding early, but the flight was delayed after boarding due to some issue that wasn't really explained in any detail.

Once we were ready to go, the crew announced that a prayer would play over the PA system. This wasn't just a quick, subtle prayer that you might not even notice if you don't speak Arabic, like on Emirates. It was quite a long and detailed prayer that went for over a minute and came with English subtitles on the IFE.

There were also a couple of pre-recorded announcements during the flight that we'd be soon flying over a place of religious significance, which each concluded with "May Allah accept all your kind deeds". These pre-recorded announcements were all in Arabic, followed by English.

Before take-off, the cabin crew handed out refresher towels and headphones. During the flight, we got the choice of a pizza or muffin. This came with a choice of drinks - tea, coffee, water, apple juice or pineapple juice.

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The cabin crew seemed to be a mix of Saudi men and foreign women, which on this flight included crew from Montenegro, Croatia and the Philippines. (There was announcement before take-off advising of the languages spoken by the crew.)

Overall, the plane itself was fine and I think this could have been an enjoyable flight. But to be honest, I didn't really enjoy it - and that was mainly because of the passengers sitting around me.

This was a completely full flight and I was in a window seat...
  • The guy sitting behind me kept grabbing my seat, and at one point even managed to hit my head while doing so
  • The young bloke sitting next to me had two cabin bags at his feet for the entire flight (the crew did not ask him to put them under the seat in front or in a locker, so they were blocking the path to the aisle). He also didn't respect my personal space, made loud phone calls the entire time we were on the ground, and was coughing for the whole flight
  • The lady in front of me reclined her seat all the way back right after take-off, and didn't bring it forward for the meal service or even for landing (nor did the crew instruct her to)
Eventually we arrived in Jeddah about an hour late, in what seemed to be a new and very modern terminal.

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Once outside, I had no problems ordering a Careem to my hotel.
 
I had four nights in Jeddah. For the first two nights, I stayed at Ibis Jeddah City.

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Unfortunately, I got sick around the first night so didn't explore much outside the hotel on the first day. Ultimately, when I did venture out, there wasn't a whole lot anyway in that area other than a few shops, industrial sites and some huge highways.

When I checked in, there was a strange sign beside the reception counter:

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I asked what this was about, and the receptionist just told me it was related to the license for the building and didn't seem concerned.

The next morning, there were signs in the lobby area posted by the Saudi Ministry of Tourism stating that the hotel was closed.

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By the following evening, there were signs beside the elevators stating that the hotel would be evacuated within 48 hours.

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How bizarre - the hotel was still very much open and accepting new bookings. 🤷‍♂️

I have no idea what all of this was really about, but I don’t think the hotel had any intention of closing - at least, not voluntarily.

This hotel was otherwise a fairly standard Ibis hotel. The room was fine, and it had a nice gym which I could use most of the day, except between 12-2pm which were the female-only hours.

With my Accor status, I had a voucher for a welcome drink. Obviously there were no alcoholic options so I asked to get a sparkling water. "That one is not allowed, only orange juice, Pepsi or coffee" was the reply.

Ultimately though, the increasingly hostile signs plastered all over the hotel signs and front door were quite disconcerting and I checked out after 2 nights, moving to the Crowne Plaza. This was near the Corniche, which was a much better location. It was also a much nicer hotel with several restaurants, a gym and a swimming pool. It even a club lounge (which I could access as I've earned a lounge access subscription as a Milestone Reward on my IHG One Rewards account).

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I quite liked Jeddah as a city. One evening, I went for a walk around the Jeddah Corniche and it was a very pleasant place to be. Lots of families out and about, and lots of stands to buy snacks etc. Being January, the weather was also very mild and pleasant.

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Another evening, I caught a Careem to the Al-Balad historic district. This is the old part of Jeddah and I found it really interesting. It was lively at night and felt very safe.

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It was actually really nice and refreshing to be able to walk through the souks, past shopfronts (which were all kept in pristine condition, by the way) and not be hassled as an obvious Western tourist. A lot of people were looking at me, as let's face it, I stood out, but not in a bad way. In contrast to walking through a busy bazaar or market area in many other countries, nobody was yelling at me or trying aggressively to sell me anything. I just got the occasional smile from the shopkeepers, and nothing more, unless of course I made conversation and wanted to buy something.

As an added bonus, for me anyway, there was a Jollibee store in this part of the city. Yum! (I’m unashamedly a huge fan of this Filipino fried chicken chain 😂🍗)

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In contrast to Riyadh, which is the modern, growing capital city, Jeddah felt a bit more relaxed and historic. Perhaps being on the coast helps. I liked it and would go back.
 
Being January, the weather was also very mild and pleasant.
Ah ok. Not quite a live trip.
Jeddah last weekend hosted the F1 Grand Prix on the Corniche, which would have undoubtedly added to the number of Westerners for that period
 
Ah ok. Not quite a live trip.
Jeddah last weekend hosted the F1 Grand Prix on the Corniche, which would have undoubtedly added to the number of Westerners for that period

No, unfortunately not a live trip report - despite my best intentions, life has got in the way and I haven't had much spare time to write this. But now that I have a moment, it's time to finish off this TR!

As I mentioned before, my flight out of Jeddah was with Turkish Airlines. I was booked in J to Rome, via Istanbul.

When I arrived at the airport, the first thing I noticed was a store outside the terminal selling holy water. The price was 12.5 riyals (around AU$5) per gallon. It was doing quite a roaring trade, too.

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I was very grateful to have access to the priority check-in queue, which must have saved me at least an hour of queuing.

Turkish Airlines had two wide-body flights departing within 20 minutes of each other, so there were hundreds of people waiting in the Economy check-in line. I don't think it would be an exaggeration to say that 90% of the people in that line were checking in at least one box of Zamzam water. (That surely must affect the weight and balance of the plane as well - it's a lot of extra weight that wouldn't have been on the inbound flight from Istanbul.)

Terminal 1 at JED is spacious, clean and very modern. It's so large, in fact, that it took me quite a while to find the lounge. Turkish Airlines gave me an invitation for the AEROTEL Lobby Lounge, which was basically on the ground floor of the airport transit hotel. This was quite a unique space which felt like the foyer of a grand, historic bank building. There was a decent selection of buffet food and barely any other people inside.

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The duty-free shops were outside the hotel/lounge. Obviously there was no alcohol for sale - in its place was tons of cigarettes and make-up/beauty products.

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All around the terminal, there were signs informing passengers of the Passenger Rights Protection Regulations that provide mandatory compensation to passengers who are denied boarding, or have significantly delayed/cancelled flights. Yes, that's right, even Saudi Arabia has more progressive air passenger rights than Australia!

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Boarding began on time, with Business boarding through a separate gate and airbridge.

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My flight out of Jeddah ended up being quite memorable, and not for a good reason unfortunately.

Turkish Airlines has two A330-300 configurations. One has lie-flat J seats, while the other just has recliners with lots of legroom. I was on the latter, but being a daytime flight of around four hours it wasn't an issue.

The thing that made this flight memorable was the number of sick passengers on board. From the moment I got on board, the plane was a sea of coughing passengers.

There was a family of five sitting around me, including a child next to me who was vigorously coughing every 30 seconds or so, and not covering her mouth either (she was probably around 7 years old). I didn't really fancy getting sick again, and noticed that there were a few empty business class seats, so I approached the purser and asked if it would be possible to move. He told me that there were 7 empty J seats, but that they would probably all be given out as upgrades and in any case, the Turkish Ministry of Health does not allow anyone to change seats on this specific route (only). He offered me a face mask, which I gladly accepted, but he couldn't really do much more.

The purser told me that most passengers on that flight were returning from Umrah pilgrimages to Mecca, and that many passengers often get sick there as there are so many people coming together in a confined space from around the world. Hence the rule about not changing seats. The purser also joked that since he's done the Jeddah flights so many times, he's now immune from pretty much every illness.

So, for the next four hours, I sat among the sea of coughing passengers hoping that I wouldn't catch whatever sicknesses were circulating around the cabin. As a result, I found it a bit hard to relax.

Other than this, the flight was perfectly fine. The food was good, we had some nice views along the way and we landed on time.

This was the view after taking off from Jeddah:

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We also got a glimpse of the Suez Canal while flying over Egypt:

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This was the business class meal, with a starter plate followed by manti. There was no alcohol available at all on board, so I stuck with cherry juice.

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While most of the passengers did indeed seem to be returning pilgrims, there was a guy sitting behind me in J who appeared to be a businessman from New Zealand. I hadn't spoken to him at all during the flight, but after landing in Istanbul, he turned to me and said "I'll see you in a few days in the tuberculosis hospital!" 😂😳

After a quick visit to the TK lounge, I boarded the onward flight to Rome which was on a 737. A fairly standard J product with recliner seats in a 2-2 layout. Once again, the food served on board was nice and this time, there was alcohol available.

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We arrived slightly early at FCO, which is where I'll end this trip report.
 
So, would I return to Saudi Arabia? Yes, I probably would. I found it safe, quite interesting and am keen to see how it changes and develops its tourism industry over the coming decades. It has some unique natural features, great food and the people were friendly.

However, if I did this trip again, there is one thing that I would change. Next time, I would fly into Jeddah and out of Riyadh. That way, it's less likely that I'd be sharing a long-haul flight out of the country with so many obviously sick passengers. (Alternatively, if flying from Jeddah, I'd make sure I was on a plane with a bit more privacy/spacing between the seats.)

I do think that going in January was a good idea as the weather was good. I wouldn't want to be outside during the day in the summer.

As for the complaints in the Traveller letter that I linked in post #1, these are my thoughts having now been to the country:
  • Yes, some tourist attractions in Riyadh are closed during the day. In the Middle East, I usually prefer to go out in the evening anyway (as do many people) as it's less hot, so that really doesn't bother me at all
  • My Australian SIM card did work in Saudi Arabia (I just use Aldi Mobile), and my eSIM worked fine once I was able to activate it
  • I also did not find alcohol anywhere, but I knew that would be the case and didn't really mind. If you want a refreshing drink, there's a wide array of fresh juices, iced coffees, teas, soft drinks and good old water available. I just treated my time there as a welcome opportunity to detox!
  • Instead of trying to hail a taxi, you can use the Careem app which worked fine (even Uber worked OK as well) - and you can use an eSIM or hotel wifi to order your rideshare.
  • It's true that some hotels have "women only" pool and gym times. Just something to be aware of.
 
Thanks, Matt. Interesting TR. So I’m assuming you did not get sick after that flight.
 
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