Peru & Ecuador. Machu Picchu and a Galapagos cruise with a side of southern USA

smckay

Active Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2010
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Our latest adventure in May 2025 is a trip to Peru and Ecuador.
Ride along with us as we work the second-last Platinum-released award seat flights starting on April 23.

Awake at Stupid O’Clock to catch the 06:05 Hobart to Sydney flight. The day started poorly with the off-airport parking company not leaving their yard until 06:10 when check-in closed at 06:20. We got to the desk at 06:18.

Therefore lounge time was 2 muffins and 2/3 cup of coffee.

Seats 2D & 2F on an A220. This was our second last trip booked when I was somebody - QF Platinum - so we luckily had J seats from HBA to SCL. Both trips were all requested seats that were granted by the Bot.

A phenomenon not seen on mainland flights was 2 empty rows in business.

Crew were doing their job no more, but the CSM sparked up on hearing we were doing Machu Picchu and Galapagos, with the announcement she was going next year.

Meal was basic - the choice of a corn cake with 2 sausages or a feta omelette with mushroom.

In a twist, we were served first which I thought was interesting seeing that row 1 was occupied - with Plats in 1A and C. However, once the CSM served 1A & C it was revealed that 1D & 1F were on staff travel - and their daughter’s allowance at that. Unlucky for them there was only corn cake left. QF back to miserable by loading 6 meals in total.

The meals were simply food and no more.

The A220 in business is a nice thing. Wireless phone chargers, USB ports, place to hold your phone or tablet securely, a leg and foot rest. I think the chairs and cabin is better than the clunky old 737.

Transit in Sydney was trouble free. Scan the boarding pass, down some stairs and over to the immigration entry. Security and immigration was as normal - people not listening and leaving iPads in bags, not bagging LAGS. I got done for wearing hiking shoes and trying to sneak through the scanner. Had I pulled my jeans down to cover them I was have beaten the system but today the System won.

Being dropped to QF Gold is a bit of an inconvenience as we now have to walk all the way back to the business lounge (joke - calm down Karen) but we arrived there with a couple of hours to kill. Breakfast consisted of baked beans, bacon, sausage and scrambled eggs along with the usual suspects of pastries, cereal and fruit.

Cawfee was a well made Vittoria.

Boarding was an experience. The gate lady was straight outta LAX - she was not letting any non-group 1 and 2 rogue come near her scanner. But bona fide 1 & 2 folks were multiple and varied. Whilst they looked very much like a Latam domestic flight crowd, they were all entitled rogues and eventually we worked it out and shuffled through.

As I was Somebody when I booked these, we were plonked in 3A and 3K which we chose for the table against the aisle which I think gives some privacy i.e. your behind is not in the aisle when you are curled up.

The usual pre-departure stuff went on - fill out your breakfast card within 5 minutes as well be back to collect them (ignored), champagne and water was offered and accepted and PJ’s were doled out.
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Take off was delayed a bit but we eventually got there.

The 787 is a quiet plane on take off, second only to the A380 for me, and once in the air we had a good look at Sydney as we took off to the West and looped around to the South. There were a few bumps on the way up, possibly due to an ANA 787 going before us but I made my 120 second count just fine.

Service started just after seat belts off. First was the meal order, with the words ‘the drink of your choice’. So I asked for the Margherita and then what reds were on offer. Being told I could have a Pinot Noir or a Shiraz I asked for the Pinot to be told I’d be offered that with the meal and I should only do my meal order right now. “But missus you said the drink of my choice”….
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My choice of the lamb tasting plate was not bad. The lamb was hard and fatty, the goats cheese was a delight with that creamy goat flavour quickly followed by lemon. The pickles were good but I left the plums. Neil’s greens were still made by the work experience kid and had the brown ends on the stems.
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The main was a mixed bag. I’m a serial beef fillet eater in J and at the time of writing on the plane I am sure the portion size has been reduced a lot. If I remember when I get home I’ll look at previous trip pics. Also, it was tender but tough if that makes sense. The polenta chips! Hot damn they were good.
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All of a sudden mains were finished and dessert was on offer. I should have had the cheese but 2A asked for ice cream and I could only obey, and so ordered the ice cream sandwich. Which was dry-ice-frozen and required 10 minutes to thaw. But the result was worth the wait and I asked for another one. Because I Used To Be Somebody and I could. But not enough for the CSM to swing by and have a chat. I do miss being felt special. Although he is generous with his wine pours and smiles nicely when I try to be intellectual.

About this time we crossed the South Island of New Zealand and saw some amazing views of the alpine region. Channeling my inner Kiwi it was epic Bro’.

The wines were both good. The Pinot was very light both in colour and taste. I then tried the Shiraz and it was more to my liking so I sat on that. Barossa Shiraz to me is a good balance between a robust wine and one with depth. Some Shiraz are just a strong wine without character and seems to overpower you. But I’m only a Bogan beer drinker so take that comment as you will.

Meal service was done after 3 hours and the cabin grew dark. Most of the people have changed into their QF PJ’s and are ready for sleep, and most of those folks look very South American, and as it’s after midnight in Santiago I understand why.

UnZud has now been left behind and we are on a 10 hour leg over cold, hard, uninviting water.

06:30 local time saw me awake after a poor few hours sleep. Ambling down to the snack bar I spoke with the CSM who was very friendly. We ended up discussing status and recognition. Apparantly Qantas are now directing that only P1 and above are worthy of a greeting and if you are WP or less you’re nobody. We both agreed that’s a funny way to treat a fairly large part of your customer base.

Something didn’t agree with me - perhaps the bottle of Shiraz I was given over a few hours- and I awoke with an upset stomach. Plus with the dinner still fresh I opted for a breakfast of coffee, juice and a sourdough crumpet.

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Arrival in Santiago was routine, as was immigration and customs. Grabbed our bags, wandered off to the Latam desk to enquire of an earlier flight.

We did have a 14:30 flight to Lima booked but changed it after some suggestion that about 4 hours was not enough time, and coupled with the real possibility of QF delaying either flight we re-booked to a 19:40 departure which meant a midnight arrival into our hotel. The nice lady at the service counter found us a 13:30 flight for the cost of $57USD each extra. At this point it was a case of shut up and take my money and so we were booked on LA520 departing at 13:30, meaning a quick stop in the Latam lounge.

The lounge was a nice place. Spacious, lots of seating and multiple food stations with a variety of options. There was an open bar but with tenders and the quite obvious large glass jar dead centre. Luckily we were past alcohol and just went water to hydrate. Both of us now had upset stomachs to the point of staying close to a bathroom.

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The lounge was well set up with a kids room well away from the adults, a movie room playing a soccer game and a sleep room which looked to have about 5 beds in it. Not completely private and there might be a risk of someone lifting your belongings but one of the better setups I’ve seen.
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Latam ask that you are at the gate 1 hour before boarding so we duly trudged down to the gate and spent the 30 minutes of potential lounge time waiting at the gate and trying to work out the Spanish announcements. After a couple of false starts we joined the line for group 1 boarding.

I have booked all internal flights as premium economy for a couple of reasons; lounge access as even though I am One World Sapphire I’m wary of being bounced and the other is the seating. My experience of South American flights is a scrum with no prisoners taken so I’m happy to pay the cost to have a seat and a bag space just for me.

On board the seats are the same as European business; economy seats with the middle not used and a bit more leg room. Different to your BA business is the centre seat only has a place holder so you can still use the seat as storage.

We got seated, got 2 roller bags and a backpack stowed up top and sat back. In between the relentless queue the hostess managed to deliver both a 600ml water and an amenity kit. The kit was unexpected and similar to a business flight with socks, shades, plugs and toothbrush.

The plane was a tired old A320. It rattled and shook on the runway as we took off and continued to rattle whilst climbing. As I scored 1D I was watching the 2 crew and they both were happily talking away seemingly not aware of the takeoff and anything unusual. Call me a prat but I am big on situational awareness and I just didn’t see them being in the moment.

The meal on offer was linguini or salad. I went the salad and it was a good choice. The guacamole was good and the salsa stuff was even better. Fruit was crisp and fresh but the blueberries were approaching their use by date.
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Beer was a local one, advertised as a lager but more of a drought with a medium heavy body. More golden ale than golden lager.
After the meal was cleared the galley curtain was pulled across and comms stopped except for brief intervals of drinks top ups. I sat back and tried to watch the amazing scenery, whilst trying not to head butt the wall in front of me as lack of sleep was now becoming an issue.IMG_6403.jpeg

Differences to Australian flights; you can keep the window shades down on take off and landing. You can keep your tablets out. Things that could fly out and whack you, such as a new 600ml bottle of water can be left loose and not stored.

The life jacket is demonstrated after the oxygen in the safety briefing.

Landing was a bit of a thump but nothing broke and we were off the plane in a decent time. Immigration was just a long wait similar to US experiences. But the lines moved ok, the questions by the official were cursory, except for the request to see my boarding pass. It had left the chat somehow and I couldn’t find it. Lack of sleep was nearly making me say something dumb like I needed it to get on the plane so why do you need it but I resisted and didn’t get an appointment in a small private room. The immigration lady looked at +1’s and waved us on our way.
The Premium Economy choice was now starting to pay off - priority bags were at the carousel waiting in a small roped off area and we waltzed up and grabbed them like a DYKWIA champ.

We’d booked a taxi datum for the hotel transfer, and the change of plane/time was no hassle. I replied to their confirmation email in Santiago, they replied before we left the lounge and at the exit was a man with a sign with my name on it. Simples.
Then, our introduction to Lima traffic started. And what an introduction. Rush hour on a Friday night. The rules are there are no rules; indicators are there simply to make the corner of the car look nice. Lane markings are a mistake made by a Government Authority and pedestrian crossings are a game show where you try to beat the people walking on them. To merge you simply look forward and turn the wheel to the direction you wish to take. The winner is the person who chickens out first (and I have seen proof that 2 non-chickens had duelled with each other by the gouge’s down the sides of cars).
When turning at an intersection you can queue up either side of the first person and the challenge is to be the first to enter the road. If you can achieve at least 3 cars lined up behind you, as it means they believe in you to be the first across the gap and there must be an app that provides recognition of this talent. Turning across 2 lanes of traffic from the curb side lane is a feat that anyone can achieve.
Horns are unreliable and must be tested once every minute whilst driving. But, if you come across Old Mate doing the 3-car turn blocking a lane, protocol is to wait about 90 seconds before you use the horn to alert him that he/she could have turned in the .45 of a second gap in the oncoming traffic.
The traffic is not so much dense as more of a solid line of vehicles all spaced about 8 microns apart all trying to go to the same place at once. It is just insane and we must have zigged and zagged 20 times trying to avoid it. But there is so much traffic here you cannot avoid it, you just have to roll with it.
Our man got us there in the end and we happily paid him $20USD which was a 2 dollar tip. His sudden enthusiasm to deliver our bags to reception was revealed on day 3.
After a fraught 60 minutes we arrived at our hotel, roughly 29 hours after leaving home. And a maximum of 4 hours sleep.

We booked Tierra Viva Miraflores Larco as it was 1. Through Qantas and I got additional points to use for a future award booking and 2. It was reasonably priced with an included breakfast. Check in was smooth and uneventful and we wandered off to our 5th floor room for some much needed sleep.

Or not. Cheap hotels mean cheap insulation and we copped plenty of life’s noises all night long. Luckily the roof top night club and bar just next door did not penetrate the walls but managed to find a route through the exhaust fan in the bathroom, but closing the door fixed that.

The bed is massive - it seems to be 2 Queens joined, but on a creaky wooden base. Air conditioning was efficient and cooled us down.
 
Day 2.

Waking at around 5am to the sounds of the cook on the 8th floor preparing breakfast started us off. Breakfast started at 7am and we presented at about 8.30. The breakfast room is on the top floor and has an open balcony out to the world.

The offerings were basic but adequate; cereals, yogurt, fresh fruit (rockmelon, watermelon and pineapple chunks) cold meat and cheese, breads, and 2 hot choices, today being scrambled eggs, potato pieces and chicken in a Mediterranean sauce. Both hot dishes were not and were quite cold.

They offered cooked to order options like French toast, pancakes, waffles, eggs in various forms as well. My first request for French toast was denied due to lack of ingredients. So I went pancakes whilst, +1 took on the waffles.
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Both arrived either cool or just warm which is interesting as the kitchen is 10 steps away. They were acceptable and tasted OK.

Today’s plan was 2 walking tours as we enjoy them and have had some very good ones in Europe. Advertised as free the expectation is to tip them at the end which is always somewhat awkward as one doesn’t know if one is insulting or over paying.

The first one was Lima walking tours historic Lima, taking us around the main centre and all the important parts. The pick up point was just around the corner from our hotel at the tourist centre so we made the 10:30 meeting time with ease.

In a nutshell, this was more a shuffle tour than walking. First we wandered off to a bus station which are cleverly placed in the centre of the motorways and have dedicated lanes. What is a 60 minute trip by car is 30-odd on the bus. But they are packed and you are squeezed in.

We stopped at about 6 places during this tour, had a bit of background intel on the history of Lima. I wouldn’t say it was an outstanding experience and it was very protracted and slow. The Euro versions are much more snappy and in-depth but perhaps this is the Lima way.

The second walking tours historic was again with a Lima walking yours and was around the Miraflores district where we were staying. This was hosted by 2 ladies, one from Lima and the other from Cusco. They gave us 2 perspectives on what we were seeing, as the a us o lady explained how the native tongue was semi-lost when the Spanish arrived and gave us a it of a run down on the language.

But again, there was a lot of walking with long breaks between stops. I also noticed we were delivered infomercials - once when we were stopped at a vendor cart in Kennedy Park and given the spiel on how they were Netflicks-famous for their donuts and we ought to partake. No one did.

The second time was at the end of the tour. We were told the story of Pisco Sour and then invited to have a free tasting. Of the 12 on this tour, 4 said no deal whilst the other 8 went along with it. We figured out the location was right next to our hotel - the noisy roof top bar - so went what the heck what do we have to loose. Thinking we’d get a wine-tasting size glass, they actually gave us beer float sized glasses. And we didn’t pay, but we were given the 10% off food and drink if we stayed and to make sure we told them the 2 girls names.

Nothing appealed so we left with the rest of the group, who were a diverse interesting bunch.

Seeking a real Peruvian dinner our first choice was no good as it was mainly seafood (+1 is not a fan) and dear so we needed up at an Italian-themed joint. Why you ask? Probably due to Carlos on the door who did a good sell job on the virtues of his employer.
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Exhibit 1 - Carlos scoping the streets.

First surprise - Lima is not cheap with meat mains running about 50-75 Sols for your average dish and higher for more exotic offerings. The only real Peru meals were some chicken dishes, one with a creamy nut and chilli sauce and the other in a creamy corn sauce.

The nut and chili was as advertised but not hot, and the corn sauce had a distinctly European celery taste about it. The portions were also quite small so we dealt a bit dudded. All local beers bar a Pilsner were out of stock so I grabbed one. It was not a typical pilsner taste and enjoyable. 12 soles are about 7 bucks.
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Back to the hotel and still weary so we turned the lights out about 9.30pm.

But, being Friday night others were in the mood for dancing and so it was that doors were opened and closed, halls were walked with plans discussed at high sounds and to top it off the room upstairs also had a creaky wooden bed. That went creak creak creak creak at about 1am but luckily not for long.

How’s that $100/night hotel working for you now???
 
Day 3.

We had a tour booked for a 9am pick up so we hit the breakfast room just on 7.15 in high hopes. Today the fruit was paw paw, pineapple and watermelon, the potatoes were now chips, deep fried chicken wings and legs replaced the Mediterranean chicken and scrambled eggs were on again. But they were all cold. 15 minutes after breakfast started. Crikey.
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French toast was available today so I ordered that. 3 small pieces which were - you guessed it - luke warm. Not real French-toasty either and the garlic dip on the side was a bit much at this hour. For reference the sandwich board out front prices this at 45 Sol or 20 bucks.
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At the allotted time we met our guide out front. They were in a newer JMC people mover with air con and leather seats. We scored by only having another couple with us so were getting a private tour. At the hotel out the front were the other people and in they jump. With the bloke wearing a Melbourne Storm cap. What the? I travel 29 hours to another country and we are on a tour with a couple of Aussies? To be fair, there are a lot of Aussies and NZ’rs over here on tour so it wasn’t unexpected.
We went to pachacamac ruins which is about 45 minutes south of Lima. A very fascinating place with multiple periods of civilisation on display. It is a huge site and if you were to walk it you would need all day. We basically drove around in the van stopping at 4 sites so we didn’t see it ‘all’ but enough to grasp the life and different eras of Peru. They had on display a number of artefacts which were amazing in their detail and depth. The museum was new and had a lot of interpretive displays with detailed information, that was just not present out in the field.
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Our guide from Haku! Tours was great. He was interested in archeology and had a lot of enthusiasm for the site. Gave us plenty of background on the site on the drive in and kept it up through the various stops.
After about 2 hours we headed back to Lima to be dropped off.
We were still a bit tired so just hung out in the room. Also, Lima is such a big busy place neither of us could be bothered with the rush, noise and hubbub on the streets.

Our guide gave us some recommendations for dinner, which would be eating like a local with local prices. Miraflores is an expensive part of town as it is a major tourist spot for attractions and hotels and it is not cheap to eat out if you are not in the know.

So it happened we arrived at Restaurant Cappa in a dingy side street just before 4pm to take advantage before they closed at 4.30pm. The first challenge was the English to Spanish transfer of words. Our man out front didn’t speak a lot of English and our Spanish was limited to Hola, Gracias and Manuel. Some gesturing, some pointing, some showing of last nights menu got us pretty well nowhere but the 15 Sols for entree main and a drink had us hooked so in we went.
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15 Sols is roughly $6.50 so we weren’t risking a lot if it all went bad.
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The night before we had been given some starters called Tequenos which are basically puff pastry rolls filled with cheese and deep fried. Spotting them on the menu gave us our entree. Somehow my wife figured out what Parilla was so asked for that. My approach was somewhat more basic - as a plate of food went past I said I’ll have that. ‘That’ turned out to be a chicken fillet deep fried with 2 slices of potato, rice and some salad. Parilla is deep fried chicken legs and was served with the spuds, rice and salad I got.
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The portions were pretty good for what it was. Certainly on par with the night before, which was quite small, and the added extra of picante was nice, although I am confident it is going to make itself known in the coming hours. Perhaps I ought to take it easy on the spicy stuff from a dingy food joint in a dingy side street in a foreign city.

The drink was some sort of berry flavoured drink. A bit sugary, not watery and in a schooner-sized glass.

Lima reflections. It is dusty as anything. It literally never rains so the dusty sand is blown about and covers everything. There is a layer of dust and dirt on every surface.

It’s busy. There are a lot of tourists so you kind of blend in.

Despite lots of warnings about theft/mugging/etc I never noticed anything to concern me. But we also stayed in a very tourism-focussed area and police and patrols were quite visible.

The poor area’s are poor. The average daily income is about $2.50USD which explains why our taxi guy nearly leapt in the air when we dropped a two dollar tip on him.

Lots of street vendors trying to sell stuff like chocolate bars and the like. Our Haku! guide claimed they made about 15 Sols per day which is naff all, given that a local bus trip would be about 1-1.50 Sols.

Tomorrow; flight to Cusco, car to Ollantaytambo and a quick visit to the ruins there in the afternoon.

And we found out why the room is noisy. The window on the inner light well had been opened an inch which we never noticed. Hopefully tonight will be quieter of external noise.
 
Day 4.
We found out what a difference an inch makes. The closed window massively reduced noise and I did get a decent sleep.

7am breakfast and straight to the hot stuff. Which wasn’t. Today we were offered hot dog sausages cut into coughtail size pieces, roasted spuds and scrambled eggs. There was a new waiter on and he had tuned up the layout. Music playing, drink dispensers moved about, no plates under the yoghurt jugs.
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The only issue with breakfast is nothing is chilled. All the yoghurt, meats and cheeses just sweat under the ambient temperature, which right now is low but I don’t think mid-summer would be a success.

Taxidatum driver messaged us at 7.20 saying he was outside as there was some event on that was blocking off roads. So 20 minutes later we fronted up out front to find our driver from Thursday night. A really nice surprise as he was pretty professional. The car was a Hyundai Tucson or similar, immaculately clean and no dents. Which must be worthy of some award.

What eventuated was a great tour of the city from the CBD through to very poor area’s and everything in between. Lots of hooting, pushing and speeding done. But our man didn’t toot he just rolled with it.

At the aeropeurto we had to show both boarding pass and passport to enter the terminal. Most of the check ins were the self serve terminal where you first scanned your boarding pass - available on the app from about 2 days before - and then selected your bag count to receive a bag tag. Then off to a bag drop where you scanned pass and tag and watched your bag get picked up and taken away.

Security was pretty quick, lots of people but many lines. Roll on bags and back packs are not needed in tubs, but laptops, tablet’s and phones are tubbed along with your floatsam and jetsam in another tub. No issues with bags, and I even got through with ankle high hiking boots. Long jeans saved the day there, although a guy in front of me set off the alarm and had to remove his boots.

Both domestic and international security are side by side in this airport, with a barrier and 3 tough guys splitting us to left and right.

I had done a fair amount of research on lounges and had confirmed the new Latam lounge at Lima was not yet opened. There were other lounges but nothing my OW card would get us into. Things looked grim but we passed the Priority Pass lounge El Salon by Newrest so I thought I might be able to bluff my way in.

No Bueno.

So as we walked away Mrs. Macca pipes up and says I have a priority pass credit card.



<long dramatic pause>



For the past many months I have been researching and planning trips and I’m sure I have mentioned no lounge access here. So, fellow FFers there are peeps out there who really are not into time travel like us. (She’s also 5 foot 2 inches and could sell half her J seat to someone else she takes up so little space)

The lounge is pretty basic but has what you need, unless you need sleep. Their rest pods (my term) would not be great but I guess most people on a domestic flight don’t need sleeps.
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Cawfee was good, a few little snacks and they had no issues serving up 2 Pisco Sour at 0900 to I guess was a local. Take that Australia.

Boarding was good. Didn’t note the time it started but it was not very long after we arrived at the gate.
Group boarding is enforced well. Both verbal announcements and someone roaming with a finger raised were used. Seemed to have 2 lines for groups 1-3 and alternated scanning peeps from each line.

They wanted to see your ID at the gate as well, which we ought to have known but no signs were present at all. (Sorry folks, it was us who delayed boarding). We were in PE so had group 1 but a lot of people kept walking past us on board so I guess they are the Elites.
The people at the door don’t want to see your boarding pass at the door which I approve of. If I have scanned my pass 4 times to this point then I surely must be in the right place.
The plane is all tourists; lightweight walking pants are in force as are backpacks. I’ve taken the approach that if you are wearing a back pack and turn to talk to your bestie and your pack touch’s me, I just push it out of the way. Current score is me 2, packs 0.
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Just noticed I can see the coughpit and the bloke in the LH seat is watching a video on his phone. Mrs Macca quipped hope it’s not a how to fly video. She may not care for flying but cutting comments are her speciality.
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Being a 1 hour domestic flight we are given a 350ml bottle of water. No other treats and the middle seat is not blocked off.
Seat room is your regular economy
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Which has escaped 3C who has appropriated 3B and is jammed bedside hubby in 3A. They are amongst us.

At 10:56 we pushed back for an 11:10 departure after the doors had been closed for some time so the early boarding has benefits. The plane was at the gate already when we arrived about 10:15 so Latam either have heaps of planes or a very efficient fleet organiser.

Window shades up were enforced today.

After a long slow taxi and a longer wait at the runway we proceeded onto the runway at 11:25 for lift off.

Looking around my seat it’s your basic no frills economy seat. Flip down tray table in rows 2 onwards, armrest table in row 1.

The only power is a plug socket which does accept my Australian USB plug but no USB port is installed.

Both centre arm rests fold up so you can have a 3 seater couch if desired.

Unlike the last flight our cabin lady is bouncing economy folk from using the forward bathroom

On the cart today was tea, coffee, water, full strength Coke and beer. No wine or Pisco Sour.

Potato chips were given with a second option of a muesli bar, chocolate muffin or a chocolate. Also, by virtue of being in row 3 we also got a snack bar handed out to Coach pax that must have been spare. I am slowly climbing that Somebody ladder.
As oon as service finished the curtains were banged shut.
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Within 5 minutes she was back for rubbish. I guess being a 75 minute flight time is of the essence.

Arrival in Cusco was simples but I noticed they use the brakes a lot more, both pressure and duration compared to Australian flights. We also sat at the gate waiting to shut down and seatbelts off for long enough for peeps to take matters into their own hands and get up.

Luggage was through quick and even though we had no priority tags our bags were about 10th out.

Outside our taxidatum driver was waiting and off we went to the car. No fancy Hyundai V6 auto SUV today. Our carriage was a Hyundai sedan with 408,000 km on it and enough rattles to keep a 1yo happy.
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Altitude sickness. Well it whacked me. Dizzy, short of breath and a headache. And that was just the 100 metres to the car for goodness sake. This is going to be an issue.

The trip to Ollantaytambo took just on 2 hours and went the ‘back road’ through Chinchilla which is a happening town. We plan to stop there on the return journey.

The trip was uneventful but typical with a variety of traffic on the way.

The entry to Ollantaytambo is worthy of a PSA. All the streets are cobblestones and a bit bouncy. Also very tight. And crowded. OK, typical Peru.
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Our hotel was on the other side of town to the station which meant tight single lane streets. A braver man than me, he drove up a one way single lane track to our hotel. It wasn’t until later we were like he must have reversed back a cuppla hundred metres. Sure earnt his $35USD.

The hotel was small but adequate. We paid extra - $68USD in total - for an outside verandah room that over looked the ruins. All very basic with bed, single chair and a table. No bottled water provided but plenty of boiled water in large containers. The ensuite was in proportion to the room. One kicker is you cannot flush used toilet paper. It needs to be put in a bin next to you. Imma gonna leave that there.
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A short walk away and we were at the ruins entrance. The Sacred Valley has a Touristo Boleto ticket which gives you entry to historical sites. 2 options are 3 for 70 Sols or 16 for 130 Sols. As we have more tours in Cusco we went the 130 Sols each. Paid in cash. Only.

So up we went. 1 flight of steps and stopped puffing like a steam train. I’ve felt nothing like it, I was light headed, woozy and puffing. Being a keen photographer (more all the gear and no idea however) when I knelt down and then got up I had massive head spins.

Anyways, the site is quite large and vertical. Theres not a lot of information and a maybe 50% of groups had guides.

My first look at Inca construction and it is impressive. I suspect most of this site has been rebuilt but the core stuff such as the large stones are fascinating in their workmanship. This is Master Craftsman on a big scale.
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There is also a large water system in place and if it is original then I am impressed. It diverts water from a stream into channels both above snd underground, uses ponds to store/slow the flow and is all symmetrically correct.

We entered just after 3pm and the joint shut at 5pm and we did the whole site in that time.

Then we cruised the market just outside. Mainly consisting of mass-produced sourced through one wholesaler items, at least they were made in Peru. The pure Alpaca wool is so soft. Negotiations commenced over a shawl, starting at 70 Sols. Having the same product at many stalls just meant speed haggling and the final purchase price was 40 Sols.
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Then dinner beckoned. Being new to the area we only went to the main square and did a loop looking for anything promising. They all tout for your business from the front door but mainly in Spanish. We looked at a few but nothing appealed until we came across El Olivo and a young guy speaking English with the promise of 2 for one Pisco Sours.
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The Touristo menu was 20 Sol for a bit of variety and we settled on guacamole with corn chips and an entree each and mains were Beef for her and Chicken for him. And 2 Pisco Sour. (20 Sol, thank you)
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Peruvians eat correctly - a large lunch and small dinner, so for us Gringo’s the portions are small. They also tend to slice the chicken in paper-thin slices so you only get a small meal. This was the same as the first meal in Lima so it doesn’t look like a tourist fort, it is how it goes.

The meals were good with some flavour. The guacamole was excellent, as it is all over Perú. Fresh, tangy and not full of black avo, I could eat a large portion itself. For the the main beef was better due to the sauce it was cooked with. The ‘pollo’ was dry and tasteless in line with it’s attempt to become an A4 pad inclusion.

Dinner done we headed back for an early night
 
Day 5

Today started at about 5am when Old Mate next door started chopping his firewood. Not just the firewood but the kindling too.
What have we done to the world to deserve this??

Being on a 10:30 train we had a leisurely breakfast however breakfast is only served between 6 and 8am and you have to nominate the time you will attend the night before.

The breakfast bar is compact with one Bain Marie, plates of fruit cereal and toast. Ham, cheese, bread are the only other choices. Both cocoa leaves and munay is available.
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I hit the Bain Marie for some hot pancakes and scrambled eggs. That were not.

Thinking a ham and cheese sandwich would be good I found out the ham is actually Devon.

The hotel is about a 10 minute walk downhill from the train station so off we went and Dudley arrived at the Perurail office to have our tickets validated.
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I had bought these on line and had been advised that the paper tickets did need to be presented, which stumped the lady for a start until she worked it out.
The hot mail is to get seats on the left hand side of the train in the direction of travel to MP as it has better views. Whilst we had been allocated seats I couldn’t find a seat map to see, so I charmed up the lady asking if she could give us seats on the left hand side. She smiled and I said, yeah like everyone. She smiled some more. And left us in our right hand side seats. Which didn’t worry her coz we didn’t find out until an hour later.

Peru rail has a waiting room for their clientele and we checked it out. More waiting than room but we felt special.
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Boarding was a bit confusing. Unknown to us, and not signed, there had been queues made for all the carriages and when boarding came we had to wait until the queue went last. No big deal but a sign or two would be nice.

I had booked the expedition coach over the vista dome. Reviews in print and video seemed to conclude that there really was no difference in the two except for price. The windows were slightly larger on the vista dome but not to the point we had FOMO.

Whilst our booking lady didn’t stick us on the nice side of the train, we ended up in a single row of w seats with a table, rather than the 4 seats facing with a table in between. Leg room was good as there is space under the seat in front. And bonus we were facing forwards not back.
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The train is reasonably old and the tracks more so. It is a bumpy ride and also slow as they adhere to a 40km/h limit on most of the track.

The left hand side is the best side. The tracks follow the river and this side basically has uninterrupted views, whilst the right hand side looks at the cuttings of the banks for the track, with probably 50% of the time having a decent view.

Water is offered free, all others you pay for. Steeply.

On arrival at Aguis Callientes we were met by a hotel staff member. We stayed at the Taypikala Boutique Machupicchu chosen as being a decent reviewed hotel with breakfast.

With a 2pm booking for our first circuit of MP we dropped excess bags and went off to the bus boarding area. Not a ‘station’ as such, you line up on the street behind signs depicting the entry time you have purchased and then shuffle down the street to board the bus about 200 metres down. It’s a smooth process without hiccup and works well. The buses must run in a non-stop rotation as it is a 30 minute one way trip up the mountain.
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The mountain. Well, that’s an epic trip. Mainly one way, no barriers, soft edges and fast drivers makes for an interesting trip. I suppose the views are so spectacular that most forget or don’t recognise that if the bus falls over it won’t stop for a long time. And there will be no survivors.
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We had pre-arranged a guide for MP as forum chat (not AFF) was misleading and ended up getting a guide for $50USD for the 3 hours of each tour so $100USD. We had booked a free walking tour and a paid city tour in Cusco with a company and I asked if they could sort out MP. All of this was done over WhatsApp and it ended up working out. And we were to pay the organising man 2 days later at a free walking tour in Cusco. There still is trust in the world.

The guide was a local and whilst not the most talkative he gave us the essential intel on what building was what, how a storage house differed from a house and other stuff I doubt you’d get as there did not seem to be self guided headsets or brochures.

Machu Picchu is simply amazing. It’s quite a large site both in length times width but also vertically. The level of construction and more importantly the craftsmanship is mind blowing. Especially as 6,000 years later apartment buildings in Sydney don’t last a year before they are condemned.

Most construction is from stone and the wooden roofs have long since gone. The classic stonework without mortar and the tiniest gaps are for buildings of importance such as shaman and Kings and other buildings with mortar and random placement are for the Plebs.

The level of sophistication is also awesome. There is a complex drainage system that is still functional today with channels carved into the stone.

The stone is granite but they were able to not only cut straight lines, curved lines and sometimes both on one stone, they also put in tight radius curves. Just to p1ss everyone off who came after them.
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After around 3,000 steps our time was done and we hopped on a bus for the ride down.

Dinner options are plenty as expected in a tourist town. Nearly every joint has someone out the front touting for business. What is interesting is the Peruvians are softly spoken and that transfers to street vendors.

After a couple of false starts we were enticed into one place with a 10% discount and free Pisco Sour. Having pizza helped.

The Pisco were thimble sized and the 10% dropped the bill by about 8 bucks. Whilst we were there it started raining; big fat drops but not heavy. Quite different to what I’ve experienced before.
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Way back in Lima we had bought pills for altitude sickness which cost 47 Sols for 16 and were organic. The chemist said take them 3 days before Cusco arrival so we started them tonight.

The hotel overlooked the river which was always flowing hard and we got more ambience than wanted as the balcony doors didn’t shut totally. Getting annoyed with my hotel choices, we just want a quiet room.
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Day 6

With a 7am entry to MP we were up at 5am. The hotel is very accommodating and has breakfast starting at 5am so we were able to take our fill. Plenty of options for hot and cold and today the hot stuff was warm.

Down the hill to the queue and it was filling fast.
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Today we rode a full electric bus. EV are good as they produce massive torque at low speeds and this type of application suited it perfectly. Whereas the diesel buses struggled with low speed tight corners and having the driver select too high or low a gear and making an awkward drive, the EV just gave a smooth drive all the way. Although I still say the only electric motor a vehicle needs is a starter motor 😈
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Circuit 1 was the first circuit today and the only reason this circuit exists is to extract cash from tourists who want the ‘classic’ MP picture. No other reason at all. Nothing historic, important or interesting. Just the edge of the cliff and what’s over it.

Where yesterday was clear and sunny this morning it was misty, foggy and moody. However with the sun rising it was only time that would give good views.

I took plenty of pictures of full mist, part mist and sun.
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This circuit was the only one where you were free to do what you wanted. The other routes were policed to ensure that you did not go backwards or stay too long but in this section with 3 good viewing spots we ended up staying just on 3 hours, as did others.

I’d still recommend people do this route as you can see the entire site as well as the western side which also has terraces, plus you can selfie with the most famous view going.

Back out to the main entrance we met the same guide from yesterday and started Circuit 2. I would say this is the most popular circuit as it includes all the hero spots: the temple of the sun, entrance to the Kings house, the praying hall and more.

This one took the full 2.5 hours and had a lot of variety. Well worth having a guide as whilst you don’t need one to walk the site they explain the buildings, structures and features you may miss on a solo tour.

And then it was over. 25,000 steps in 2 days. Multiple steps up and down. Rough surfaces mainly stone and cobbles.
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Really steep terrain.
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People everywhere and no courtesy at a picture spot. I was standing taking photos when a Japanese lady decided to have her picture taken but as her feet nearly touched mine as she lay back for a glamour shot she asked me to move. Huh? I was here before you turned up.

The bus back down was same same with speeds of 30km/h again being hit in the straights.
On the way down I managed to get some shots of the steps you can take if you want to walk up or down. With the bus cost US$12 each way some of the backpackers can’t afford it and some just want to do it.
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Although I’m not sure what group these guys fit into.
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Before we got on the train there was time to peruse the market attached to the station. I was hoping to buy a fedora style hat but none fitted my egg-shaped head. I settled for a sun hat with a large neck cover with MachuPicchu on it. I’ll save wearing it till I’m home. Paid 22 Sol after some haggling.

Boarding the train was a bit more normal. We were all in a large hall in front of door 1, and once it opened they eyeballed your ticket and then we walked along the platform to the carriage. A passport and ticket check and we were on. Seats 9 and 10 for the return journey again on the land side - left hand for the return journey - and again in a double seat pod.
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I spent the boring parts of the journey watching an American couple and their totally spoilt single daughter. Whilst she was attractive and vivacious she was single, possibly due to Daddy being totally devoted to her and no other man exceeding that devotion.

Back in Ollantaytambo we trudged up the hill to the same hotel. On checkout the day before I asked if we could change to a non balcony room so we could be somewhat shielded by the noises. Well, that translation failed and up we went to the balcony level 3 but at the other end of the complex. This room also featured a large gap in the door frame to the wall. Luckily the mozzies didn’t come calling.
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For dinner we went outside the main square and down towards the ruins. Couple of prospects but again in the 50-90 Sol cost for a main but the last place was a cafe that advertised home made cooking and a family atmosphere.

Well it did both. Along with home made tortilla we also ‘enjoyed’ the 3 year old kid running amuck.

But the food looked good and we ended up with a chicken quesadilla for Senora and beef taco’s for Senor. Plus a local beer. 30 Sol for the quesadilla and 32 for the tacos, add 16 Sol for the beer. Both were good size and flavourful. We also got given a chilli sauce. Jokingly I asked if it was suitable f9 Gringo’s. It’s very hot was the reply. And it was. One drip nearly took the top of my head off. But it was very tasty too.
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Back off to the hotel ready for our trip to Cusco tomorrow
 
We did MP in 2012 as it was my #1 destination on my bucket list....this was after we had to cancel our trip in 2010 as the rail track got washed away by floods. I got terriible altitude sicknss in Cusco, and should have gone staight to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley from Cusco airport as you did. We forked out about US$1000 (parity with AUD then :) ) to stay the night at the hotel just outside the entrance to MP, but it did include all meals and drinks I think. Back then, we did not need a guide so wandered around MP over 2 days ourselves (had to buy a pass for both days)...we even climbed Wayna Picchu which nearly killed me as I was still suffering from altitude sickness!

Looking forward to the Galapagos part of your trip as we went here in 2011 :)
 
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When we went in the mid noughties you could get a cheap local guide at the entrance to MP. No circuits. you could wander anywhere. As well there were quite a few signs some in English. The local guide translated the others. once you time with the guide was up and after lunch you could wander anywhere and no trouble going back the way you came.
We were lucky having left side seats both way. Not raining on our way to MP so great views but absolutely pouring coming back so those on the side by the river mostly just saw rain.
We stayed though at Tambo del Inka which although expensive was considerably below the cost of the Belmond at MP. now they have caught up in price. We were going to book tours at the hotel but the driver we had from Cusco lived in Ollantaytambo and offer his services for the entire stay and then back to Cusco. He was excellent especially as it was Fiesta time and we got to celebrate it in a fe villages and towns.

We did not stay in Cusco as Mrsdrron gets altitude sickness.
 
Today is Thursday and we finished the altitude sickness pills we got on Tuesday. The headaches hit hard this morning as did a bit of wobbles.
The pills we bought must have had an effect so I bought more, but chemicals this time. 1 every 24 hours and the pharmacist Google Translated they were the good stuff.
Bought 5 days worth for 20 Sols, about 12 bucks at the exchange rate we got.
 
Mrsdrron drank coca tea on the advice of the hotel. No scientific evidence but it certainly helped her. When we first arrived in Cusco the altitude caused severe symptoms but coming back she was OK having had the tea for nearly a week and 2 cups for breakfast the morning we left the Valley to return to Cusco.
 
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I suppose the views are so spectacular that most forget or don’t recognise that if the bus falls over it won’t stop for a long time. And there will be no survivors.

I think the season or the season prior to when I visited MP a bus (Mercedes diesels then) did tip over, but fortunately on a climbing bend so it rested on the bank. But the evidence was still there and the driver commented on it. Small inward breaths all round. And another time there was a small landslip in the road, but no 'casualties'.

Does your hotel have oxygen available? Many do.
 
I’ve been on the cocoa leaves in tea for a few days, but the hotel in Cusco only has cocoa tea tea bags. And they only give you 2 in the room.
They do have a large bottle of oxygen here but I don’t think I’m at that level.
Today climbing the San Blas hill it was more breathless and puffing.
I’ll see what tomorrow brings, we are on a tour to 2 local sights with a bit of walking.
Downhill is fine, uphill I am struggling.
 
I am fortunate as I don't get altitude sickness and have been up to nearly 14000 metres. Mrsdrron does suffer and despite descending from Cusco to the Sacred Valley so I told my driver to take me to all the high altitude places on the first day there. Was a fantastic day. The second day was MP and you actually descend to there so Mrsdrron was fine. By the third day she was better and so able to enjoy the sites and sights in the Valley.
 

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