kileskus
Intern
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2019
- Posts
- 72
Lurker here - decided to finally join to share some stories, tips, and reviews related to my recent trip to Russia (mid-Dec to mid-Jan) 
First off, my goal was not so much to be a tourist for a month, but to live in Russia for a month. That meant eating at canteens in St Petersburg, taking trains third class, and foregoing the Tretyakov gallery to explore grocery stores. What surprised me the most about the nine cities I went to is how different each was - different street structure, cuisine, culture.
Getting there: Melb -> HK (Virgin), 4 day 'stopover' to take a look around HK and Macau, HK -> Vladivostok (Aeroflot). I'd snagged a end-of-financial-year Virgin deal for Melb-HK return. In retrospect, locking in my Australian exit and return flights greatly reduced the flexibility of my plans. Macau was charming: it was around the time of the anniversary of its handover, and the festive atmosphere was enjoyable.
Vladivostok: The city can be walked, but stay in the southern side - the north is mainly industrial sites. The ocean view is stunning. It's got a rich naval history and is a city of military glory.
Kazan: Vladivostok -> Moscow (Aeroflot), Moscow -> Kazan (overnight train). My thoughts on Aeroflot are at the end of this post. The train was one of the newer ones, so even third class was comfortable, with individual charging points. The bunks might be more uncomfortable for taller people, though. Kazan's old Tatar settlement looked magical, especially with the snow. I think one day is enough to see the village, the kremlin, a few museums, and try the local specialities (like chak-chak, triangles, and horse meat).
St Petersburg: Kazan -> Moscow (overnight train), Moscow to Petersburg (high-speed Sapsan train). The Sapsan was a smooth ride with a good view of the countryside. Petersburg was very festive around that time. Go for walks along the rivers at night and watch the decorative lights glitter over the water and ice.
Vyborg: St Petersburg -> Vyborg (electric train). It's about a two hour ride from Petersburg, so perfect for a day trip. It's a cosy town with a rich Finnish-Swedish-Russian heritage. The medieval fortress and library are must-visits. Also a city of military glory.
(Veliky) Novgorod: St Petersburg -> Novgorod (electric train). Another day trip location, Novgorod is three hours away. Lots to explore here, especially the kremlin and the Cathedral of St Sophia. It's Russia's oldest city; if memory serves, in the country's early history the two main areas were the principality of Kiev and the Republic of Novgorod. A city of military glory (and very proud of it).
Moscow: St Petersburg -> Moscow (marshrutka). I took an overnight bus to Moscow from Petersburg. It was relatively cheap but, as one would expect, quite uncomfortable. Still, it's a very Russian experience. I spent New Year's and Russian Christmas (Jan 7) in Moscow, with my trip to Vladikavkaz in between. Didn't have the courage to spend New Year's Eve on Red Square, but in retrospective, it would probably have been worth the wait (you have to get there early) and the crowds because watching from the second-best place, the bridge, wasn't very eventful. Christmas was a much smaller celebration; I didn't notice much difference except there seemed to be more kissing couples.
Dmitrov: Moscow -> Dmitrov (train). A day trip destination from Moscow. Apart from the churches, it's not too spectacular, but it has its quirks and you do get to see the Moscow canal. A city of military glory.
Vladikavkaz, Beslan, Fiagdon (Republic of North Ossetia-Alania): Moscow -> Vladikavkaz (Aeroflot). Smarttraveller advises "Do not travel" for this region, and while caution should be exercised, I personally think North Ossetia is a doable destination. Vladikavkaz... ah, how can I put it into words? It's a completely different lifestyle to the big cities and is much less developed, but with the mountain view and the local beer and the quiet pride (also a city of military glory) and the prevalence of the Ossetian language and the driving without seat-belts, I fell in love so hard I probably broke both legs.
The view from Vladikavkaz's main pedestrian street. The architecture along the street resembles St Petersburg's. (In other parts of the city, the buildings were much more run-down and appeared more Asian in style.)
It's a short taxi ride from Vladikavkaz to Beslan to see the School #1 memorial to the 2004 terrorist attack (where the children were held hostage in the gym for days). If you're organised enough, you can get there from the airport, which is actually located in Beslan. If you visit Beslan with a Yandex/Uber ride, be sure you know how to get back - ask your driver to wait or know how to phone for a taxi, because you'd be very lucky to find a Yandex driver there. And have a spare bottle of water handy.
From Beslan I took a taxi into the mountains, to Fiagdon. I'd recommend even if you're not an outdoorsy tourist. The air is sweet, the water clear and drinkable, and the views unforgettable. I had shashlyk there with the driver.
Fiagdon monastery.
Vladikavkaz to Moscow, train ride: an adventure in itself, 37 hours on one of the old trains. The toilet can't be used 20-30 minutes before and after stations because the waste is dribbled onto the track, and it flooded periodically to boot. There's only one 50 V power point for six people, so put your phone aside and look out the window. The wintry countryside is captivating. (For some reason, the people in my carriage preferred to sleep during the day as well.) Ossetians (and other ethnic minorities like Central Asians) seemed to be much more patient with my rudimentary Russian than ethnic Russians.
Yekaterinburg: Moscow <-> Yekaterinburg (Nordwind/Pegas Fly). Nordwind gives a discount if you book round trip with them, and this trip was nearly half the price of what it would've been with Aeroflot. If you get a seat at the front you can also watch the flight attendants work, which is quite interesting. Yekaterinburg has culture (many museums and theatres), history (it was founded by Peter the Great to service Russia's industrial needs, and is also where the last Romanov family was killed), and nature. A short drive away is the Europe-Asia border.
On Aeroflot: I'd read some negative reviews and went in thinking it'd just be a way to get from A to B. But on all four of my flights with them, all economy, I found the service exceptional. The flight attendants speak English. All were polite; some were kind and some were kind in a Russian way, but even the surlier ones were professional and efficient. The food was enjoyable with a Russian twist. Entertainment was only available on the longer flights and included a range of Russian and international offerings. Personally, Aeroflot has surpassed Qantas as my favourite airline.
The only downside, from an Australian point of view where we're geographically distant from Russia and most other SkyTeam airlines, is the frequent flyer program. There is no points + pay option for redeeming points. Aeroflot Bonus's partners are mostly Russian companies, so there are also few opportunities to boost your balance.
On intercity transport: overnight train is a convenient and affordable option to get from A to B, and you save on accommodation costs. BlaBlaCar and marshrutka are even more affordable, but also a lot less comfortable. There are different airlines you can consider if flying, but there are relatively few direct flights between non-Moscow cities (Sheremetyevo will haunt my dreams, I'm sure). Aeroflot is the flag carrier and best option for safety and comfort. I found booking Nordwind tickets straightforward, and the service on the flights (operated by Pegas Fly) was good, though not all attendants could speak English. S7 and Pobeda are the lowest-cost ones. Ural (doesn't accept foreign credit cards) and Aurora mainly service Siberia and the Far East.
On intra-city transport: apart from Moscow, the cities I visited didn't have a unified ticketing card system like myki/Opal. For buses and trams, there'll be a conductor you pay to and they'll go to you. I don't remember each city's prices but just have 50 rubles handy.
On the language barrier: it was surprising how few people spoke English. Know some basic Russian (not just phrases but also basic grammar and common adverbs of time), especially if you're staying in hostels and going to cities outside of Moscow and St Petersburg. Do not expect museum attendants/cashiers to speak English - not even the ones at Moscow's Kremlin could. I listened hard for words I could understand, picked up a few phrases along the way, and copied locals - and got by.
Hope you found that interesting, and feel free to ask any questions! Hardly an expert but having planned this whirlwind of a trip by myself, I can probably provide advice for any other first-time visitors to Russia.
First off, my goal was not so much to be a tourist for a month, but to live in Russia for a month. That meant eating at canteens in St Petersburg, taking trains third class, and foregoing the Tretyakov gallery to explore grocery stores. What surprised me the most about the nine cities I went to is how different each was - different street structure, cuisine, culture.
Getting there: Melb -> HK (Virgin), 4 day 'stopover' to take a look around HK and Macau, HK -> Vladivostok (Aeroflot). I'd snagged a end-of-financial-year Virgin deal for Melb-HK return. In retrospect, locking in my Australian exit and return flights greatly reduced the flexibility of my plans. Macau was charming: it was around the time of the anniversary of its handover, and the festive atmosphere was enjoyable.
Vladivostok: The city can be walked, but stay in the southern side - the north is mainly industrial sites. The ocean view is stunning. It's got a rich naval history and is a city of military glory.
Kazan: Vladivostok -> Moscow (Aeroflot), Moscow -> Kazan (overnight train). My thoughts on Aeroflot are at the end of this post. The train was one of the newer ones, so even third class was comfortable, with individual charging points. The bunks might be more uncomfortable for taller people, though. Kazan's old Tatar settlement looked magical, especially with the snow. I think one day is enough to see the village, the kremlin, a few museums, and try the local specialities (like chak-chak, triangles, and horse meat).
St Petersburg: Kazan -> Moscow (overnight train), Moscow to Petersburg (high-speed Sapsan train). The Sapsan was a smooth ride with a good view of the countryside. Petersburg was very festive around that time. Go for walks along the rivers at night and watch the decorative lights glitter over the water and ice.
Vyborg: St Petersburg -> Vyborg (electric train). It's about a two hour ride from Petersburg, so perfect for a day trip. It's a cosy town with a rich Finnish-Swedish-Russian heritage. The medieval fortress and library are must-visits. Also a city of military glory.
(Veliky) Novgorod: St Petersburg -> Novgorod (electric train). Another day trip location, Novgorod is three hours away. Lots to explore here, especially the kremlin and the Cathedral of St Sophia. It's Russia's oldest city; if memory serves, in the country's early history the two main areas were the principality of Kiev and the Republic of Novgorod. A city of military glory (and very proud of it).
Moscow: St Petersburg -> Moscow (marshrutka). I took an overnight bus to Moscow from Petersburg. It was relatively cheap but, as one would expect, quite uncomfortable. Still, it's a very Russian experience. I spent New Year's and Russian Christmas (Jan 7) in Moscow, with my trip to Vladikavkaz in between. Didn't have the courage to spend New Year's Eve on Red Square, but in retrospective, it would probably have been worth the wait (you have to get there early) and the crowds because watching from the second-best place, the bridge, wasn't very eventful. Christmas was a much smaller celebration; I didn't notice much difference except there seemed to be more kissing couples.
Dmitrov: Moscow -> Dmitrov (train). A day trip destination from Moscow. Apart from the churches, it's not too spectacular, but it has its quirks and you do get to see the Moscow canal. A city of military glory.
Vladikavkaz, Beslan, Fiagdon (Republic of North Ossetia-Alania): Moscow -> Vladikavkaz (Aeroflot). Smarttraveller advises "Do not travel" for this region, and while caution should be exercised, I personally think North Ossetia is a doable destination. Vladikavkaz... ah, how can I put it into words? It's a completely different lifestyle to the big cities and is much less developed, but with the mountain view and the local beer and the quiet pride (also a city of military glory) and the prevalence of the Ossetian language and the driving without seat-belts, I fell in love so hard I probably broke both legs.
The view from Vladikavkaz's main pedestrian street. The architecture along the street resembles St Petersburg's. (In other parts of the city, the buildings were much more run-down and appeared more Asian in style.)
It's a short taxi ride from Vladikavkaz to Beslan to see the School #1 memorial to the 2004 terrorist attack (where the children were held hostage in the gym for days). If you're organised enough, you can get there from the airport, which is actually located in Beslan. If you visit Beslan with a Yandex/Uber ride, be sure you know how to get back - ask your driver to wait or know how to phone for a taxi, because you'd be very lucky to find a Yandex driver there. And have a spare bottle of water handy.
From Beslan I took a taxi into the mountains, to Fiagdon. I'd recommend even if you're not an outdoorsy tourist. The air is sweet, the water clear and drinkable, and the views unforgettable. I had shashlyk there with the driver.
Fiagdon monastery.
Vladikavkaz to Moscow, train ride: an adventure in itself, 37 hours on one of the old trains. The toilet can't be used 20-30 minutes before and after stations because the waste is dribbled onto the track, and it flooded periodically to boot. There's only one 50 V power point for six people, so put your phone aside and look out the window. The wintry countryside is captivating. (For some reason, the people in my carriage preferred to sleep during the day as well.) Ossetians (and other ethnic minorities like Central Asians) seemed to be much more patient with my rudimentary Russian than ethnic Russians.
Yekaterinburg: Moscow <-> Yekaterinburg (Nordwind/Pegas Fly). Nordwind gives a discount if you book round trip with them, and this trip was nearly half the price of what it would've been with Aeroflot. If you get a seat at the front you can also watch the flight attendants work, which is quite interesting. Yekaterinburg has culture (many museums and theatres), history (it was founded by Peter the Great to service Russia's industrial needs, and is also where the last Romanov family was killed), and nature. A short drive away is the Europe-Asia border.
On Aeroflot: I'd read some negative reviews and went in thinking it'd just be a way to get from A to B. But on all four of my flights with them, all economy, I found the service exceptional. The flight attendants speak English. All were polite; some were kind and some were kind in a Russian way, but even the surlier ones were professional and efficient. The food was enjoyable with a Russian twist. Entertainment was only available on the longer flights and included a range of Russian and international offerings. Personally, Aeroflot has surpassed Qantas as my favourite airline.
The only downside, from an Australian point of view where we're geographically distant from Russia and most other SkyTeam airlines, is the frequent flyer program. There is no points + pay option for redeeming points. Aeroflot Bonus's partners are mostly Russian companies, so there are also few opportunities to boost your balance.
On intercity transport: overnight train is a convenient and affordable option to get from A to B, and you save on accommodation costs. BlaBlaCar and marshrutka are even more affordable, but also a lot less comfortable. There are different airlines you can consider if flying, but there are relatively few direct flights between non-Moscow cities (Sheremetyevo will haunt my dreams, I'm sure). Aeroflot is the flag carrier and best option for safety and comfort. I found booking Nordwind tickets straightforward, and the service on the flights (operated by Pegas Fly) was good, though not all attendants could speak English. S7 and Pobeda are the lowest-cost ones. Ural (doesn't accept foreign credit cards) and Aurora mainly service Siberia and the Far East.
On intra-city transport: apart from Moscow, the cities I visited didn't have a unified ticketing card system like myki/Opal. For buses and trams, there'll be a conductor you pay to and they'll go to you. I don't remember each city's prices but just have 50 rubles handy.
On the language barrier: it was surprising how few people spoke English. Know some basic Russian (not just phrases but also basic grammar and common adverbs of time), especially if you're staying in hostels and going to cities outside of Moscow and St Petersburg. Do not expect museum attendants/cashiers to speak English - not even the ones at Moscow's Kremlin could. I listened hard for words I could understand, picked up a few phrases along the way, and copied locals - and got by.
Hope you found that interesting, and feel free to ask any questions! Hardly an expert but having planned this whirlwind of a trip by myself, I can probably provide advice for any other first-time visitors to Russia.
