Visiting the Taj Mahal

[NSun]

Well it's time for another trip report. A few weeks ago I was sent to India (specifically New Delhi) for work. While I didn't have that much time for sight-seeing, I was granted a day to go and see the Taj Mahal and thought I'd share that day.

With the lack of Premium Economy on the QF A330 I had to go Y (shudder) on the way over and without an inflight entertainment system. I bought some books but got through all of them with half the flight to go. At least I got a bulkhead seat on the way over and managed to upgrade to J on the way back.

Highlight of the trip over was business in the Melbourne F lounge. Last time I'd been there was my last pre-COVID trip. Although there are no city views, it feels more exclusive than the Sydney lounge because it is generally quieter. For breakfast I always go with rasberry jam on toast, muesli and yogurt with honey.



The route taken to Delhi was interesting, first over the Australian outback...



then over Bali, Singapore, Malaysia (exiting around Georgetown on our route)



and the Bay of Bengal via the Andaman and Nicobar Islands.




I stayed at the Crowne Plaza Noida. If you look at its location in Delhi, it may seem far away from anywhere. But it was close to the metro, the worksite I visited and was ideally located to go to Agra. This was the view from my room at 5.30am.

 

[NSun]

I hired a private tour company and paid ~12k rupees (about A$220). I could get away with a 10% deposit and an agreement to pay the balance on the day. I was picked up from my hotel at 7am and driven down the highway to Agra. It was a smooth drive down, although we had to stop at a few toll booths, they only slowed us down 30 seconds each time.

Now I had heard some bad stories about touts, theives and a difficulty in obtaining cash. Thanks to Karl Rock on YouTube I taught myself the Hindi word for 'no I don't want'. I went only carrying what I would hold in my pocket and held everything in pockets of my shorts that I wore underneath a pair of trackpants.

But one thing I hadn't sorted out is cash. I couldn't find rupees in Australia and didn't have time to stop at a currency converter at Delhi because I had a driver that met me at the terminal. My driver agreed to give me 3k rupees from his wallet and repay him later. I accepted but was worried that it'd be hard to obtain cash (given PointsHacks advice that so many ATMs didn't accept foreign cash). A couple of minutes after exiting the highway, my driver pulled over at an HDFC Bank ATM. My card was accepted without issue. Withdrew ~7k, gave my driver back the ~3k plus another 500 rupees as his tip for the day.

A few minutes later, another guy got into the front seat and introduced himself as my guide for the day. He explained we'd have to get out about a kilometre away from the Taj because combustion engine vehicles had been banned from that radius - apparently it really was affecting the marble. So we got on what was essentially a golf buggy to the main gate. Although my tour included the ticket, we had to pick it up. In and towards the Taj we went.

This is just outside the gate



The Darwaza-i-rauza i - the Great Gate. You have to walk through it to get to the Taj proper, and you do see it alright.










And to think it was built in the 1600s. No computers, no cranes, no machines. All by hand.

It is the tomb of the favourite wife of fifth Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan - and his too. Although you're theoretically not allowed to take photos inside, you're not watched all 360 degrees and even if they catch you, you'll get a 'Hey' - but that's it. Actually, this is only a monument of where she is buried - she is actually buried in the earth as Islamic custom requires.

If you want to go in, you have to buy it as an 'add on' and you have to wear shoe covers to go inside but they're nothing really.

 

[NSun]

Unfortunately, the visit was soured because at the gate to the Taj a photographer came up. I said no but the guide insisted saying 'pay later, its not expensive'. So for a while he just kept barking me into positions like on the Princess Diana chair & that spot where you can look like you can 'pinch' the top of the Taj. After 60 or so photos he told me 7,000 rupees (Well over A$120). I just said no and walked away. My guide caught up with me and I said 1,000 rupees would be my best and final offer, giving him the cash.

So then we went into the Taj itself and back down the path. After we were about to go through the Great Gate again to exit, he told me to wait there for a few minutes and I did. I took the opportunity to just sit by myself and admire it from a distance. He picked me up then we exited and then someone else met us with some sort of charger telling me he would put the photos on my phone and he did. So all's well that ended well there. Back on the buggy then back into the car.

We drove to the JW Marriott Agra for lunch. A buffet lunch was included although drinks were not for some reason. I was hoping they had butter chicken or some other curry but had to settle for rajasthani paneer. I'd never heard of it before and (according to Google) is some sort of curry with cheese instead of chicken. No complaints. If anything, the best thing about this stop wasn't the food (or even the bathrooms) but because it was a bit of peace and quiet even though the rest of the hotel was very busy.




Anyway, back to the car. I didn't take too many pictures of Agra, but here's one of the few - of a new Metro that is being built.



I was told I was being taken to a museum that showed how the Taj was built. Seemed like just another typical shop (I've since found out it was called 'the Agra Marble Emporium') but I went in. Was greeted by one guy (obviously the boss) and a couple of others who were doing pottery right at the 'reception'. I was shown what they were doing and told it was the same marble used for the Taj. OK then. I was then taken behind the reception to a big room with all these marble things on display but quickly realised it was just a souvenir store. Were they really the marble from the Taj or just rip-offs? For better or worse I'll never know because as soon as I was asked if I wanted to buy I just walked out and back to the car, parked outside. My driver and guide were nearby and came back across the road - I told them we were to get going. I wasn't in a good mood now and sternly told them 'no more shopping stops'.

So next stop was Agra Fort. It predated the Taj by a century and was apparently the dynasty's palace. You can see the Taj from a couple of spots there, but the Fort is a good stop in its own right.

 

[NSun]

The final stop was at the 'office' of the tour agency. It was at the back of a run-down jewellery shop. I met the founder of the company and he asked me about the tour and what I thought of it. I told him the positives and negatives, including the blow-in photographer. His response to this was that I had been told some sort of guide I'd been sent when booking the tour that photographers exist and can be very expensive. I looked at the guide and retorted,' Well, tell me where it says you have to have your photos taken by them - you can't say no'. Paid the balance and walked out, ignoring the one other person who was trying to coax me into buying jewellery. In the end, no harm done, but next time I go to the Taj I'll be my own guide - although I would like to see some of Southern India first. My guide farewelled me at this point and I was driven back to Noida - a smooth 3 hour journey.




Well, until we got close to Noida and then it was typical Delhi traffic where the principal of staying in lanes is treated as a recommendation rather than a legal obligation. Once back at the hotel, went on a walk around my hotel vicinity. Not much to see other than the station, a KFC and cows.





I try not to be too nosy about strangers' business. But what on earth was in that vehicle?



Next couple of days was work stuff, but managed to do out one night to some bar in a major shopping mall near by hotel. Sadly forgot the name of it, but finally got butter chicken.

 

[NSun]

On the final day I once again had a day to myself so used the chance to go downtown. I caught the Metro to Connaught Place and walked a lap of that before walking down to India Gate, then all the way down Kartavya Path to the end that has Rashtrapati Bhavan.









I'd woken up that morning with it being easily the worst smog of the trip. But it cleared up to be the best day from a weather perspective. And after being approached by literally a dozen touts on my way there, plus another 2 or so at India Gate that took my photo and insisted I pay them for it (it was almost as if I'd actually asked them to take it). I did run into an issue at the nearest metro where my card didn't work at the machine, just 4 hours after working at the station I hopped on. So had to turn on roaming for $5 a day to order a Uber back to the hotel. At least it was only another $7 or so to get back to the hotel.

Managed to negotiate a 2.30pm checkout, then had an 'early dinner' at the restaurant, then caught an Uber to the Airport. Despite being on the other side of town and taking over an hour, it only cost A$20 or so.

In India, you need an itinerary to enter the terminal. I think digital is accepted for Indians (as I saw a few using them) but not sure for foreigners. I'd heard coming in that Qantas was sending its passengers to some Irish pub. Got to the checkin and was told to go to the 'Holiday Inn' that was airside. And there was an 'escort' who took me to the VIP line for immigration and security. Was through in 5 minutes when it would've taken 20 otherwise. I went to the Holiday Inn, spent 5 minutes there before walking out. Didn't have much of a food/drink variety or decent views. At least there was a modest amount of natural light and staff were friendly.



VH-EBP - hadn't been on this one in 7 years and 3 days exactly.



I got the upgrade to J but was seated in the '8-seat cabin'. It's quite awkward to have all these people walk past you. I went straight to sleep after takeoff and slept for 7.5 hours. Had my usual breakfast options.



Landed in MEL on time and made my 1.5 hour connection to Sydney with plenty of time to spare. Got this pic of a Dash 8 and an A380 alongside one another.



This was my first time to India. I'd definitely go back, but I'd want to see some of the south first (Bengaluru and Chennai).

Next trip is purely for leisure, I'm going back to the US in three weeks. I'm taking the QF3 points plane to JFK then visiting New Orleans, San Antonio, Dallas, Las Vegas and Los Angeles. Next leisure trip after that is to Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in late November. Thanks to all who read, and happy to take questions.

 

[jastel]

I hate those forced Disney Type photos on tours or attractions, let alone touts and beggars trying it on the street as well.

I will usually pull a face, or take out my camera and take a picture of them while they are taking a picture of me.

 

[VPS]

Thanks for the mini TR. Some interesting info

 

[stm1sydney]

Very interesting thanks. Will have to learn "no I don't want" in Hindi. I don't know much Mandarin Chinese but my "bu yao" is pretty good and very useful in those parts (China).

 

[SeatBackForward]

Great Trip Report! seems you got to experience some of the good and bad in India in a short trip

I visited the Taj almost 25yrs ago. Caught the morning Train from Delhi and got there well before many of the tour buses arrived so it was quite deserted (Don't make the mistake some work colleagues once made and visit on Friday - its closed for prayer day!, the mosque is one of the buildings to the side of the Taj Mahal).

One of my best anecdotes is that even back then they recognised the harm that pollution was causing to the marble, and they had a "Greening Agra" strategy. So of course what did the touts do to their dirty-engine rickshaws? Painted them green.

If you do visit the South, make sure to go via Train along the Konkan railway, some stunning scenery of the hills, rivers and coastal regions, you can do this from Mumbai or Bangalore.

 

[Ade]

without an inflight entertainment system

IFE not existed or not working? I was on a QF A330-200 (older ones) with the small screen IFE ...

 

[NSun]

IFE not existed or not working? I was on a QF A330-200 (older ones) with the small screen IFE ...

Not working. I was on VH-EBS on the way over that had screens.

I can understand not wanting to delay us over that issue and we were warned in advance, but I was disappointed that the compensation vouchers we got were far lower than last time I was in that situation, at just $15 compared to $50. At least the $15 voucher was a general EFTPOS card so I ended up using it on the groceries after getting home.

 

[daft009]

Very interesting thanks. Will have to learn "no I don't want" in Hindi.

nahi chahiye = no want... is the literal translation
naa-hee chaa-he-yay for pronunciation

 

[Richard1]

Interesting perspective from a first time visitor to india. I go regularly and took a party of friends and family on a trip to rajasthan and Varanasi etc 4 years ago. My first visit to the Taj was when my father took me as a boy with my brother in the 60s. I remember being really bored but have since been another 4 times and appreciated its beauty more every time. Looking back on black and white photos of the first time there are only another half dozen or so people in the photo. Indians couldn’t afford to travel then.
One thing you need a lot of (as you’ve found out) is an abundance of patience. But also empathy. Don’t forget even the touts are pretty poor and they have to earn a living. Treating them with impatience won’t get you anywhere because they will still persist. Just ignore them and they will eventually go away. A simple firm “Jao“ meaning “go” will probably be more effective. I “allow” myself to be hassled if it means that I can make someone’s day to the tune of $5 or so.
never change money at the airport. You’ll get a terrible rate. There are several money changers at Connaught Place who will give you a much better deal.
i dislike putting my card into an ATM. I wait with bated breath until I finally get my money and my card. Occasionally you won’t get any money and hope they haven’t debited you. I change as much money as I’m comfortable with at the money changers and try to make that last. I use my credit/debit cards at hotels and restaurants.
your comments about the marble souvenir shop brought back memories. There‘s a couple of versions. Another is that the people outside are descendants of the men who worked on building the Taj. And the prices are higher than what you’d pay for the same thIng at Delhi airport.
next time make sure to visit Fatepur Sikr, a short drive from the Taj. Glad you got to see Agra Fort. It‘s really interesting.
Delhi is a very interesting city full of history if you do some research and check it out.
Good luck for your next visit.

 

[stm1sydney]

Sounds like the OP had the full India experience including the scams, touts, and various detours to souvenir shops. And the amazing sights. We visited in March 2024, so I'll add my perspective if any other readers are doing their research by reading this thread.

At DEL, on arrival, there is a bank of ATMs opposite the exit from the secure area into the arrivals hall: SBI (State Bank of India) with blue signage next to the mobile phone/SIM shop. Withdrew 10,000 rupees, no local ATM fee charged. (I also had no problems with ATMs of other banks around India.)

Uber at the airport is well organised with lines of cars waiting and Uber marshals guiding you, but the metro is a good option as it is fast into the city.

No need for guides at any of the major sights (not even Fatehpur Sikri), they will say it is very complicated and spread out and you need a guide, but just ignore. They'll take you to their cousin's stall within and encourage you to buy some tat. Tickets are easy to buy at the foreigner ticket window. Most highlights are well signed with explanations, and you can enjoy the sights at your own pace.

If not on a tour to Taj Mahal with included tickets, you can pre-purchase your tickets online, and the ticket's QR code on your phone is scanned at the entrance. A bit quicker and easier than lining up to buy on the day. Pre-dawn is a good time to arrive.

Uber is generally very reliable and good value, although in the big cities the tuk tuks (auto rickshaws) are often quicker because they can zip in and out of traffic, but you need to know what a reasonable fare would be (by looking at how much the fare Uber would be, is a reasonable comparison) and agree it up-front. The Delhi metro is excellent, so look for a hotel near a station on a line that will take you to sights you are interested in. We stayed in Kailash Colony in South Delhi, a nice quieter area, half an hour on the metro (Violet Line) into the city.

Indian Railways is the best way to travel between cities, first or second class sleepers are comfortable and safe for overnight trips, and air-con chair class (CC) is perfectly fine for day journeys.

Apart from Delhi and Agra, it is worth visiting Varanasi (although it was the filthiest city we experienced) and Jaipur.

Or, if you don't think you could cope with the chaos and intensity of these areas, then Kerala is beautiful and more laid-back and quieter.