US and Canada in winter - Ice Pilots NWT Yellowknife geek

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I think my favourite part of your Trip Reports are the random beers at local bars. :)
It's my one indulgence when on holiday. Believe it or not, I'm not a big drinker at home.
I'm not a foodie. I'm not a shopper. I'm not a museum or art gallery goer.
I like to get out and have a beer every night when I am away.
My one pet indulgence that I do for me.
 
I liked the full frontal of the green luggage !
The beer looked good too !
Shame about the wings


Ditto!!

But whats going on with that carpet? Ugh!! Don't think I could sleep knowing that was there:rolleyes:
 
I have this theory when on holidays.
For every 1000 steps I do over 10,000 then I have earnt myself a pint.
I doesn't have to be a day to day thing. It can accumulate over the entire duration.
So in other words, if I have done 8000 steps one day and 16,000 steps the next, then I have earned myself four pints.
So far I was well in the black and needed to rack up some steps.
It'd more difficult in a cold climate too.
You tend to do less walking so I hopped onto the treadmill on this bright and sunny Saturday morning with absolutely nothing planned.
I ran and I ran and I ran.
I needed to earn these steps, because pint drinking was becoming so much fun.
After my gym session I'd worked out I was still in deficit. I needed to do much more.
Still it was -20 outside and after being in Alaska this time last year, I thought I was much more equipped to handle it.
I was.
However, I cannot emphasise enough the important of decent footwear when heading to the cold.
In Alaska I had a pair of Salomon boots that said they were good down to -40 but they weren't. They cost me a fortune too. This time I bought a pair of second-hand pair of Kamik boots. They were US$35 and they proved to the saviour of my trip. They arrived from the US in as-new condition and I did not feel cold feet once during my trip.
I soon discovered there wasn't a lot to see in Yellowknife, but I did have a snowshoe walk planned tomorrow so I was happy to get my bearings for today.
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It was -20 outside as you can see, but gee it felt colder.

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Yellowknife is an interesting place. I loved walking around seeing how people just get on with their lives in these conditions. A lot of the Asian tourists, of which there were plenty, seemed to be doing it very tough with the weather.



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Popped into the supermarket and look what I found! Sorry Crows supporters, but I did warn you.

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One of my missions was to find make-up for wife and daughter. Apparantely it's cheaper over here. I went looking, but couldn't find what they were looking for, so I kept walking. Every step counts when you are building it towards something special.

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The weather turned colder and I decided to retreat back to sanctuary of my room. It was almost beer o'clock anyway.

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Tip for people for have never travelled to to places where its -20 or lower. Yes, layers do help. I had thermal running tights, which were great for the Minneapolis, Edmonton and Calgary days where it was around -10, but they won't do when it's colder.
I had proper thermal tights and a top for Yellowknife. A T-shirt over the top, a good fleece and a really good parker. When I say fleece, I don't mean a normal hoody. You need a proper fleece. I had a really lightweight Kathmandu fleece that you will see in pics coming up. It's the brown one in some of the pics in case I forget to point it out.
I wore two beanies. One was an Under Armour one that was good, but then another normal one top of that was effective.
Boots, yes the most important thing. I also had thermal socks.
Mittens. Yes mittens, not gloves. The reason behind this is that less heat escapes when your fingers are further apart. On the really cold days I wore thermal gloves with the mittens over the top. Worked well. The thermal gloves were fine in -10, but they won't cut it in -20 and worse.
Finally a good parker is a must. The blue one I am wearing here was fantastic. I had a red one that I could get away with in -10 or less, but the blue one had down that was rated to 800. That's serious heat power. I liked the red one better, but the blue one was more effective in the cold.
So that's it. Dress in layers, two beanies if you choose to shave your head like me, thermals and DON'T SKIMP ON YOUR FOOTWEAR.

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After thawing out with a very hot shower, it was closing in on 5.30pm so I decided to venture back into deficit in search of a pub.
For anyone going to Yellowknife, look no further than NWT Brewing Company. Simply a superb pub, superb service (thanks Bryan) and superb food and not to mention their own brewed beers.
Decided to walk mainly becuase the snow on the ground was not icey and therefore easier to navigate and that it was only a 10-minute walk.
Frozen Great Slave Lake
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Saw a terrific sunset on the way.

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And here I was at NWT Brewing. Seriously you'd be hard pressed to find a place like this in a major city. Great beers brewed onsite and a great ambience.

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Once inside and taking off three layers of clothes I found a warm and inviting place where the bartenders knew my name for every night after tonight.
I settled on the Burt's American Amber which was at a palatable 4 percent alcohol. Does that mean my 1000 extra steps can become 500 extra?

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I stayed for way too many which meant I was really in the deficit and with a 10am snowshoe tour tomorrow, decided to head off back to my room and to sleep around 9pm.
Great move Justin.
 

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Can't believe Richmond didn't do a heavy duty premiership beanie.
And can't believe the pub didn't sell makeup for your wife and daughter.
 
Can't believe Richmond didn't do a heavy duty premiership beanie.
And can't believe the pub didn't sell makeup for your wife and daughter.
haha! I love it.
I bought enough premiership merchandise to make a Dash 8 nosedive.
 
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With a snowshoe forecs walk organised for the next day at 10am, I woke around 8.30am.
Eventually made a coffee and showered and met the wonderful Rosie from Strong Interpretations at the foyer.
I was the only person on her tour today so I felt pretty special.
It was cold at around -22 degrees, but I dressed accordingly to Rosie's guidelines. She insists you are prepared for -30 if need be.
We drove out to her property about 30km outside Yellowknife and the scenery was spectacular.
We stopped at a frozen river where Rosie explained to me the significance of this spot to the Aboriginal people thousands of years ago. It was fascinating and I loved every minute.
I finally felt like I was actually immersing myself in something spectacular.
This is the frozen river. The rock in the foreground was, according to the Aboriginal people, a beaver dam where everything started.

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This tree was a spear that was used to stop the giant beavers. Pity about the graffiti.

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We kept driving and came across a red fox that was just sitting on the side of the road. Rosie said she had been there for a while and she was just keeping on eye on her babies who were safely tucked away in a den. The fox didn't bat an eyelid and was happy to stay where she was. What a treat!

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We got to Rosie's property and it was to get fitted with my shoeshoes.
I was looking forward to this. Suited up like the Michelin man.

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We walked and talked. I'll mainly let the pics do the talking for me.

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The snowshoes were surprisingly easy to use. As long as I lifted my feet off the ground and not shuffle. I did fall over once because I stepped on one of my snoeshows. I didn't get wet though. The snow was so dry.

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After the walk, which was interesting and informative, we adourned to a tent where Rosie made a very warm fire. Boy I was glad it kicked in too. It was amazing how quickly it warmed up.
We then had tea and biscuits and slices while I sat underneath a reindeer rug. The tea, Rosie told me was from herbs and plants from the forest. It was quite delicious.

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It was time to head back to the house, which was only a few hundred metres away. Rosie insisted I get a pic with an antler.

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Back into the car and headed back to Yellowknife. There was some nice scenery along the way.

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For a town of only 20,000 inhabitants, Yellowknife did have more than its share of high-rise buildings.

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I got back to the room and then pumped out 7km on the treadmill in around 40 minutes.
By this time it was beer o'clock so headed back to the NWT Brewing Company just down the road.
I had enjoyed my forest walk, clocked up some kilometres and felt I had at least deserved this beer. I was exctpionally tired and it was Saturday night so I at least owed it to myself to head out.
Old mate next to me was obviously enjoying that burger as much as I enjoyed this yummy porter.

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Tomorrow I had a free day at this stage but had an aurora viewing tour booked with Sean Norman. You're going to love that!
 
I had quite a big night at the pub. So I slept quite late and then did another 7km in 40 minutes on the treadmill.
I didn't feel like doing a lot as it was Sunday and nearly EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday.
I had lunch at a Vietnamese cafe just down the road.
It was much colder today well into the mid minus 20s. I contemplated ice fishing, but funds were running low.
I have always wanted to stand on a frozen lake or river so I ended up getting a cab out to Great Slave Lake and just walking on the frozen surface. Of course I checked with locals that it was safe and it was. I didn't get any pics as I was alone. I didn't make the cab wait. I walked around for a good 45 minutes before getting a cab back to the room.
By now it was mid to late afternoon and I had an aurora tour booked and was getting picked up at 9.15pm. It's a massive drawback to get picked up so late. Thankfully there were no pubs open or so I thought. The Kilt & Castle was the only pub open in town so I thought I'd wander down there from about 5pm to 6pm to kill some time. I didn't last 10 minutes. In the first three minutes I saw a fight between the barman and a patron and within 10 minutes I was approached by what I can only assume was a sex worker. I decided to head back to my room and just watch TV until pick up time.
After a hot shower and putting layers and layers of clothes on - two sets of thermals tonight, I was picked up by the delightful Sean Norman. if anyone ever finds themselves in Yellowknife for the Lights, I can highly recommend him. Sean is passionate and enthusiastic and is prepared to drive 130km out of Yellowknife if need be, to chase clear skies.
You can order a premade hot drink in a thermos - tea, hot chocolate, coffee or warm apple cider (nonalholic). I chose the cider and it was delicious.
Tonight was not supposed to be a great viewing night with considerable cloud cover. We drove around and eventually hot the jackpot about 35km out of Yellowknife. Sean's minibus was full tonight and we all got a treat.
The lights came out to play, although not super strong, but we were all grateful that they did.
After the show, we packed up and by the time I got back to my room it was well after 3am. I slept well.

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I woke late after a very late night. Today the weather was going to be brutal. In the high minus 20s but with a wind chill of -40.
It was apparent that I wasn't going to be doing much today.
I checked my emails and was delighted to receive a reply to a message I sent to Buffalo Airways. They'd be glad to have me on a short hangar tour tomorrow. If you are not sure what Ice Pilots NWT is, as I've explained before, they were the feature of a six-part series in which this airline, based in Yellowknife, flies vintage planes to remote communities in the harshest of conditions. They also had a passenger service to Hay River, but it was discontinued. I was an avid viewer of the series and was super excited to get out to the hangar and possibly meet some of the crew that starred in the series. I had hear that they all still live and work here. Even so, the tour would be good.
I pretty much bunkered down today except for a brief walk outside just to dip my toes in the water to see how cold it was.
It's weird at those temperatures. You go outside and you thinkk 'this isn't too bad' and then after a few minutes it hits you. Your nostrils are the first to go and then your face just feels numb.
Not an ideal way to spend a whole day. But at least I got another treadmill run in and headed to the NWT Brewhouse for a couple of very quiet pints and some dinner.
Tomorrow I had the hangar tour planned and another aurora tour with Sean. I was hopeful of seeing the Northern Lights one last time before heading to Calgary.
 
After a very lay day yesterday, I was keen to make up for it today, my last full day in Yellowknife.
With the hangar tour at 2pm, I decided to head out for a walk to see how far out of town I could get before it got too cold.
A chilly day for it, though.

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I took in the sights just out of town, which might not seem too inspiring in pics, but it was good to feel the 'fresh' air.

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I decided to try and find the Aboriginal museum, but do you reckon I could it? Signage is not a strong point here.

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This museum was becoming as elusive as the Loch Ness Monster. Not even Google Maps could help.

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Turned out I was basically looking at it most of the time. But I only found this out later on. Nope, I didn't make it there. Yes this is it.

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Still, I was happy to be outside and feeling the sharp cold on any exposed skin. Well, actually that's not true. I wasn't actually enjoying it like I enjoy cookies 'n cream ice cream but I enjoyed it in a different kind of way. In a 'Wow, this is different' way.

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After a good 90 minutes, it was time to call it quits. I started the walk back to the hotel.

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Once back at the room, I hit the treadmill again for another 7km run.
By now I was in credit. Yippee!
 
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