craven morehead
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The Frozen Frequent Flyer: Chasing the Aurora from an Ice Bed to the Olympic Flame
- Thread starter Notyourbag
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Cool (pun intended)!
Notyourbag
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Please excuse this trip report is a bit behind which I guess is natural when you're going a million miles an hour on holiday!
Okay! Time to leave the Goulash behind and head north. For this leg, I leaned into a classic frequent flyer "trick of the trade" using Avianca Lifemiles to book LOT Polish Airlines business class. It’s often the best-value way to traverse Europe without getting stung by high fuel surcharges. Unfortunately I've been sitting on over 200,000 Lifemiles points with limited use for the last 6 years. Thankfully I've managed to keep them active through one of the "refund" hacks. IYKYK! The redemption was 16,330 miles and $92 USD.
The Flight: BUD – WAW – KRK in Business Class. The flight from Budapest to Warsaw was on a nifty Embraer regional jet. While "European Business Class" is usually just an economy seat with a blocked middle, LOT actually puts in a bit of effort. The meal was a plate of smoked salmon with an egg spread and bread. This was accompanied by a porridge which was actually quite tasty and a Brut.
The Transit: A quick dash through Warsaw (WAW). I spent about 60 minutes in the LOT Polonez Lounge - just enough time for a quick espresso and snack before boarding the short hop to Krakow. I was surprisingly impressed.
The Soft Product: On a flight that barely lasts 50 minutes, they managed a full meal service and a refill of the bubbles. They also offered blankets and an inflght magazine.
Arrival: The Big Freeze Stepping off the plane in Krakow, the "Olympic Winter" finally decided to show its teeth. The temperature had plummeted to -10°C. It’s the kind of cold that doesn't just sit on your skin; it actively tries to get into your bones. Thankfully, the Queen Boutique Hotel was only a short transfer away.
I picked this hotel as its located perfectly between the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz), the Queen Boutique is a gem. Thanks to my industry booking, we were greeted with a warm welcome and an upgrade to a room with a stunning view of Wawel Castle.
After walking around in -10°C, the hotel sauna became my best friend. There is no greater feeling than defrosting your toes after a day on the Polish pavement!
Okay. Here's where this trip report gets a little heavy. We dedicated a full day to a tour covering both Auschwitz-Birkenau and the Wieliczka Salt Mine. I booked this one through GetYourGuide. Before leaving Australia, I had read "The Happiest Man on Earth" by Eddie Jaku. Highly recommend this read! Eddie survived Auschwitz before moving to Sydney, and his words on the "unimaginable cold" were ringing in my ears as the wind whipped across the camp.
Standing under the Arbeit Macht Frei gate in the biting cold brings a perspective that no book can offer. The tour was very respectful as was the small group ( was worried in the era of influencers some folks might have been disrespectful) but our guide was exceptional - meticulous with the history and deeply respectful. I did walk around with a lump in my throat and eyes getting watery. Seeing the room filled with thousands of battered suitcases hand-painted with names and addresses is haunting. But it’s the display of two tonnes of human hair and the mountain of children’s shoes that truly stops your breath. Moving to Birkenau, standing on the selection platform where Eddie was separated from his family, the silence of the vast, frozen landscape is deafening. It was an emotionally draining experience that made the warmth of our return to Krakow feel like a profound privilege.
After the emotional weight of the morning, we headed 135 meters underground into a different kind of history. The Wieliczka Salt Mine is one of the world's oldest operating salt mines, with roots stretching back to the 13th century. For 700 years, this was the backbone of the Polish economy. Salt was so valuable it was literally "white gold." Commercial salt mining only officially ceased here in 1996, though they still produce salt today by evaporating brine to protect the mine from flooding. This isn't just a few tunnels; it’s a labyrinth of over 2,000 chambers. During its peak, it was a fully functioning society:
The tour had fake horses to represent the horses that lived down here for years at a time, powering the massive treadmills used to haul salt to the surface.
There was also a chapel replica as the miners were deeply religious, carving entire cathedrals out of rock salt so they could pray before their shifts. The Chapel of St. Kinga is the masterpiece—54 meters long, with every floor tile, altar, and even the chandeliers carved from salt!
Coming back to the surface, we were in desperate need of some Pierogi. Stayed tuned for all the food and drinks recommendations!
Okay! Time to leave the Goulash behind and head north. For this leg, I leaned into a classic frequent flyer "trick of the trade" using Avianca Lifemiles to book LOT Polish Airlines business class. It’s often the best-value way to traverse Europe without getting stung by high fuel surcharges. Unfortunately I've been sitting on over 200,000 Lifemiles points with limited use for the last 6 years. Thankfully I've managed to keep them active through one of the "refund" hacks. IYKYK! The redemption was 16,330 miles and $92 USD.
The Flight: BUD – WAW – KRK in Business Class. The flight from Budapest to Warsaw was on a nifty Embraer regional jet. While "European Business Class" is usually just an economy seat with a blocked middle, LOT actually puts in a bit of effort. The meal was a plate of smoked salmon with an egg spread and bread. This was accompanied by a porridge which was actually quite tasty and a Brut.
The Transit: A quick dash through Warsaw (WAW). I spent about 60 minutes in the LOT Polonez Lounge - just enough time for a quick espresso and snack before boarding the short hop to Krakow. I was surprisingly impressed.
The Soft Product: On a flight that barely lasts 50 minutes, they managed a full meal service and a refill of the bubbles. They also offered blankets and an inflght magazine.
Arrival: The Big Freeze Stepping off the plane in Krakow, the "Olympic Winter" finally decided to show its teeth. The temperature had plummeted to -10°C. It’s the kind of cold that doesn't just sit on your skin; it actively tries to get into your bones. Thankfully, the Queen Boutique Hotel was only a short transfer away.
I picked this hotel as its located perfectly between the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz), the Queen Boutique is a gem. Thanks to my industry booking, we were greeted with a warm welcome and an upgrade to a room with a stunning view of Wawel Castle.
After walking around in -10°C, the hotel sauna became my best friend. There is no greater feeling than defrosting your toes after a day on the Polish pavement!
Okay. Here's where this trip report gets a little heavy. We dedicated a full day to a tour covering both Auschwitz-Birkenau and the Wieliczka Salt Mine. I booked this one through GetYourGuide. Before leaving Australia, I had read "The Happiest Man on Earth" by Eddie Jaku. Highly recommend this read! Eddie survived Auschwitz before moving to Sydney, and his words on the "unimaginable cold" were ringing in my ears as the wind whipped across the camp.
Standing under the Arbeit Macht Frei gate in the biting cold brings a perspective that no book can offer. The tour was very respectful as was the small group ( was worried in the era of influencers some folks might have been disrespectful) but our guide was exceptional - meticulous with the history and deeply respectful. I did walk around with a lump in my throat and eyes getting watery. Seeing the room filled with thousands of battered suitcases hand-painted with names and addresses is haunting. But it’s the display of two tonnes of human hair and the mountain of children’s shoes that truly stops your breath. Moving to Birkenau, standing on the selection platform where Eddie was separated from his family, the silence of the vast, frozen landscape is deafening. It was an emotionally draining experience that made the warmth of our return to Krakow feel like a profound privilege.
After the emotional weight of the morning, we headed 135 meters underground into a different kind of history. The Wieliczka Salt Mine is one of the world's oldest operating salt mines, with roots stretching back to the 13th century. For 700 years, this was the backbone of the Polish economy. Salt was so valuable it was literally "white gold." Commercial salt mining only officially ceased here in 1996, though they still produce salt today by evaporating brine to protect the mine from flooding. This isn't just a few tunnels; it’s a labyrinth of over 2,000 chambers. During its peak, it was a fully functioning society:
The tour had fake horses to represent the horses that lived down here for years at a time, powering the massive treadmills used to haul salt to the surface.
There was also a chapel replica as the miners were deeply religious, carving entire cathedrals out of rock salt so they could pray before their shifts. The Chapel of St. Kinga is the masterpiece—54 meters long, with every floor tile, altar, and even the chandeliers carved from salt!
Coming back to the surface, we were in desperate need of some Pierogi. Stayed tuned for all the food and drinks recommendations!
Notyourbag
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Breakfast is served on the Budapest to Warsaw leg.
The plonk wasn't too bad. Came in a heavy mini glass bottle.
It's no Al Safwa but the lounge was comfortable and had a decent selection of food and drinks.
First experience watching deicing!
Second intra Poland leg was just a Plum Bun snack. It's not going to win any culinary awards (and the expiry date was the next day!)
Apparently their Christmas celebrations and decorations stay up until early February to recognise the Polish calendar.
German for "Work sets you free" which was not the case! An orchestra would also play music the PoW would have to march to each day.
Confiscated bowls and plates
Each suitcase has a story and person or family behind it.
The train station where the "selector" would decide and seperate those who would be kept alive and those would be sent to the gas chamber.
Chandelier from the salt mine
Snowy streets of Krakow
The plonk wasn't too bad. Came in a heavy mini glass bottle.
It's no Al Safwa but the lounge was comfortable and had a decent selection of food and drinks.
First experience watching deicing!
Second intra Poland leg was just a Plum Bun snack. It's not going to win any culinary awards (and the expiry date was the next day!)
Apparently their Christmas celebrations and decorations stay up until early February to recognise the Polish calendar.
German for "Work sets you free" which was not the case! An orchestra would also play music the PoW would have to march to each day.
Confiscated bowls and plates
Each suitcase has a story and person or family behind it.
The train station where the "selector" would decide and seperate those who would be kept alive and those would be sent to the gas chamber.
Chandelier from the salt mine
Snowy streets of Krakow
drron
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I was born at the right time and was able to look after many prisoners at Auswich, Buchenvald etc. Many incredible stories. But the fellow I got to know best was one that was the father of a fellow who was in my year in University. He was a very fit young fellow when the Germans invaded Poland. He was given the option of physical work or being in prison for the rest of his life.
However the work he was given was cleaning the gas chambers at Auschwitz. He was depressed for the rest of his life.
But worse was to come. He was put into a German work battalion when they invaded Russia and went all the way to Stalingrad.
There captured by the Russians and went all the way back to Warsaw. He said that the Russians were far worse than the Germans. So when they arrived in Warsaw he managed to escape. He feared that when the war ended they would all be killed.
However the work he was given was cleaning the gas chambers at Auschwitz. He was depressed for the rest of his life.
But worse was to come. He was put into a German work battalion when they invaded Russia and went all the way to Stalingrad.
There captured by the Russians and went all the way back to Warsaw. He said that the Russians were far worse than the Germans. So when they arrived in Warsaw he managed to escape. He feared that when the war ended they would all be killed.
Notyourbag
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It was time to cross the Arctic Circle. For the jump from Poland to Finnish Lapland, I’d booked Finnair via Helsinki as I also was chasing status credits with QF. On paper, it’s a seamless way to reach the north; in practice, Finnair decided to add a "survival" element to my trip before I even reached the ice.
Transiting through Helsinki is usually a breeze. Since Poland and Finland are both in the Schengen Area, there were no passport control hurdles to clear. As a OneWorld Emerald I headed straight for the Finnair Platinum Lounge in the Schengen lounge near Gate 21.
The "Hard" Product (Literally) The SnowHotel is an architectural masterpiece, rebuilt every year from the lake water up. It’s a gallery with a permanent -5°C thermostat. Outside it hit -28C with a 'feels like -34C'. Compared to the 42C day we had in Sydney before we left it made me realise how large the temperature difference was.
So what's my verdict? For me it's a "must-do" once-in-a-lifetime experience. It’s uncomfortable, beautiful, and slightly ridiculous all at once.
One night was enough for me. It was time to move onto Apukka Resort and continue my desperate hunt for my missing suitcase!
Transiting through Helsinki is usually a breeze. Since Poland and Finland are both in the Schengen Area, there were no passport control hurdles to clear. As a OneWorld Emerald I headed straight for the Finnair Platinum Lounge in the Schengen lounge near Gate 21.
- The Lounge: The Platinum Corner is a dedicated haven for Emeralds. It’s sleek, quiet, and far more refined than the main Business Lounge. While the famous sauna is located in the non-Schengen Platinum Wing, this "Corner" still offers excellent barista coffee and a high-end buffet. It also has the famous Finnair Ultima Thule glassware.
- The "Fumble": Whilst I made the connection to Rovaniemi, my suitcase - containing pretty much thermal layer I owned - decided to stay in Helsinki for an unscheduled holiday. Unfortunately it was the only bag on that flight that didn't arrive. Thankfully I did have a thick jacket, gloves, beanie and balaclava to keep warm.
- The Ground Experience: Arriving in -20C temperatures of Rovaniemi only to find an empty carousel is a special kind of dread. The Finnair "support" was essentially a shrug and a "check the baggage status email once you receive it." No proactive help, no emergency kit—just a "good luck in the snow" vibe. As an agent, I was fuming at the lack of duty of care for passengers arriving in an Arctic environment without their gear. I also wear contact lenses so I was debating to try and sleep with them in or use water to put them in. Either way it was going to get uncomfortable!
- I looked at Bolt and Uber for ride share options - both were around the 25 Euro mark which I thought was good value (given private transfers were coming up over $100 AUD).
A Night on the Rocks: Arctic SnowHotel
My first stop was the famous Arctic SnowHotel. While many choose the glass igloos, I wanted the "Full Arctic" experience: a night in a room made entirely of literal ice.The "Hard" Product (Literally) The SnowHotel is an architectural masterpiece, rebuilt every year from the lake water up. It’s a gallery with a permanent -5°C thermostat. Outside it hit -28C with a 'feels like -34C'. Compared to the 42C day we had in Sydney before we left it made me realise how large the temperature difference was.
- The Themed Rooms: Each room is uniquely carved by ice artists. My suite featured an intricate wall sculpture of a ladybug that glowed with embedded LED lights stunning, though it’s a strange feeling knowing your bedroom will be a puddle by April.
- The Amenities: The hotel features a silent, beautiful Ice Chapel (perfect for a sub-zero wedding!) and an Ice Bar. Here, the glassware is made of ice. Pro tip: you're encouraged to throw your glass against the wall once you're done!
- The Menu: We had a delicious Celery-apple soup, spruce bud oil and roasted onion followed by traditional sautéed reindeer, Lappish potato mash, pickled cucumbers and lingonberry jam. They also were cooking salmon right over the central fire pit on wooden planks. The smokiness of the fish and the flickering flames made the missing suitcase feel like a distant problem - at least until I had to go back to my ice room.
So what's my verdict? For me it's a "must-do" once-in-a-lifetime experience. It’s uncomfortable, beautiful, and slightly ridiculous all at once.
One night was enough for me. It was time to move onto Apukka Resort and continue my desperate hunt for my missing suitcase!
Notyourbag
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Seating map of OW Sapphire & Emeralds?
Yep we're officially in Lapland!
So many suitcases, none of which are mine!
Welcome to the Arctic Snow Hotel - rebuilt from scratch annually, opening around December 15th with unique, hand-carved ice art in every room. Construction takes about six weeks using roughly 30,000 tons of snow and 500 tons of ice to create rooms, a chapel, a restaurant, and a bar.
Just a balmy -27C outside!
Here's the bar. They only sell shot glasses in the glass made of ice. Once you're done you're encouraged to throw it against the wall.
Want to get married? They have that sorted!
And an ice restaurant (most folks chose to eat in the warm heated restaurant). I guess they aren't too keen on meals getting cold!
We ate in the warm cozy, Kota Restaurant. Starter was the delicious Celery apple soup, spruce bud oil and roasted onion.
Traditional sautéed reindeer, Lappish potato mash, pickled cucumbers and lingonberry jam
Apple-caramel pie, apple jam, cinnamon seasoned oats and white chocolate sauce (needed a big dollop of ice cream as it was a bit too dry)
This was the straight jacket/sleeping bag that would keep us warm overnight.
A few photos of some of the ice sculptures from various rooms:
Time to have our last bit of warmth before bed!
Yep we're officially in Lapland!
So many suitcases, none of which are mine!
Welcome to the Arctic Snow Hotel - rebuilt from scratch annually, opening around December 15th with unique, hand-carved ice art in every room. Construction takes about six weeks using roughly 30,000 tons of snow and 500 tons of ice to create rooms, a chapel, a restaurant, and a bar.
Just a balmy -27C outside!
Here's the bar. They only sell shot glasses in the glass made of ice. Once you're done you're encouraged to throw it against the wall.
Want to get married? They have that sorted!
And an ice restaurant (most folks chose to eat in the warm heated restaurant). I guess they aren't too keen on meals getting cold!
We ate in the warm cozy, Kota Restaurant. Starter was the delicious Celery apple soup, spruce bud oil and roasted onion.
Traditional sautéed reindeer, Lappish potato mash, pickled cucumbers and lingonberry jam
Apple-caramel pie, apple jam, cinnamon seasoned oats and white chocolate sauce (needed a big dollop of ice cream as it was a bit too dry)
This was the straight jacket/sleeping bag that would keep us warm overnight.
A few photos of some of the ice sculptures from various rooms:
Time to have our last bit of warmth before bed!
Notyourbag
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Nice one!! I didn't get my mitts on these (pardon the pun)
Read our AFF credit card guides and start earning more points now.
Notyourbag
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After our night on the ice and after having a quick breakfast at the Ice Hotel, we moved a short distance to Apukka Resort for a four night stay that would become the centrepiece of the Arctic leg.
Before we did this my morning began with a familiar ping on my phone. My AirTag confirmed that my July suitcase had finally landed at Rovaniemi Airport overnight.
Despite the "modern" tech, Finnair’s communication was stuck in the Stone Age - zero calls, zero updates. Taking my mantra of getting things done to heart, I took a 18 Euro Bolt back to the airport.
The terminal was busy but I managed to grab a Finnair ground services staff member to explain the situation. She palmed me off to a Rovaniemi employee and after talking my way through a series of "staff only" back doors, I eventually found myself in the inner sanctum: the misplaced luggage room. There it was "Big Blue!" - my July bag, sitting lonely in a corner. I grabbed it, gave the confused handler my ID, and walked out like I’d just completed a heist. Thermals: Secured!
Back to regular programming! Time for yet another Bolt rideshare from Rovaniemi Airport. This time to Apukka! We got there at 12pm and was told the room should be ready before 3pm and we would receive a WhatsApp when cleaning had concluded. After a quick bite to eat my phone buzzed and true to their word we received the green light to check into our Kammi Igloo at 1.30pm . Unlike the standard cabins, the Kammi is a two story setup: a cozy and spacious lounge with an electric fireplace and kitchenette downstairs, and the bedroom upstairs under a stunning 360 degree glass roof.
I booked this through my own agency channels. While Apukka is notorious for not offering "igloo upgrades" (they are almost always 100% occupied), the "industry touch" was evident. We were greeted with a bottle of wine, a premium hot chocolate pack, and a selection of local Lappish produce that made the welcome feel truly personal.
What sets Apukka apart is that it feels like a private wilderness estate rather than a crowded tourist hub. Despite being fully booked, it never felt busy. One of the biggest perks is the free hire of thermal gear. They provide high quality warm jumpsuits, boots, gloves, and neck warmers for the duration of your stay. It was nice to compliment the clothes I'd already brought from Australia. For some guests I could see this would save them quite a bit of money instead of hiring warm clothes.
The resort is situated on a massive frozen lake. You can take a leisurely walk across the ice, try your hand at snow tubing down the hills, or just wander over to see the resident reindeers and horses. It has that peaceful, slow travel vibe that is hard to find in the more commercial parts of Rovaniemi (I'm looking at you Santa Claus Village!).
The daily buffet breakfast was substantial. We’re talking everything from traditional Finnish rye bread and cold cuts to a proper egg station and even a chocolate fountain for those who need a sugar hit before hitting the snow. I was a little shocked at the egg etiquette (I see ordering for 2 people as acceptable but I saw guests trying to order 5x omelettes or 4 fried eggs and then barking at the eggselent attendee when she hadn't flipped them at the end! Keen to hear from others their take on this!
With my gear finally back, we threw ourselves into the Apukka activities:
Husky Sledding! This was pure magic. The dogs at Apukka are clearly loved and incredibly high-energy. Being the "musher" (driver) is a genuine workout - you have to balance and brake while the team sprints through the snow-laden forest. The bonus highlight was meeting the husky owners and having a cuddle with the puppies after the ride.
We swapped paws for pistons for a snowmobiling dash across the frozen fields. The scale of the landscape here is hard to describe; it’s a white-on-white world that feels like another planet. Halfway through we stopped off at a traditional Kota to cook Finnish sausages over the wood fire and have a cup of hot blueberry juice. Unfortunately a shot of vodka wasn't added! I got up to 50km speeds which is a little more than expected. It did feel perfectly safe although on the way back I did see two ladies who had gone 'off road' and our guide had to pull their snowmobile out from a ditch!
Our quest for the Northern lights started with a Gold Medal effort but a Did Not Finish result. On our first night, we went out with Arctic GM. Our guide was a legend - we drove for hours, nearly reaching the Russian border in a desperate attempt to find a gap in the clouds. We saw plenty of snow and some very desolate border fences, but the Aurora remained elusive.
Fast forward to our final night at the resort. We were back in the Kammi Igloo, half-resigned to the fact that the "Green Lady" might stay hidden. Then, at 11:30 PM, the sky began to shimmer. Apukka has an aurora alert and it worked wonders confirming what we thought we were seeing!
Although we went outside to take photos I'm sure for some folks they didn't even leave their bed. The Northern Lights began to dance directly above us - vivid greens and hints of purple swirling across the Arctic sky. It was the perfect Closing Ceremony for our time in Rovaniemi.
So my final verdict? Apukka lives up to the hype. It’s a seamless blend of luxury and wilderness - just make sure you pack an AirTag in your bag.
Next up - I make a quick hop back down to Helsinki before the final sprint to Milan for the Olympics. Guess who I'm sitting behind on my flight to Milan!
Before we did this my morning began with a familiar ping on my phone. My AirTag confirmed that my July suitcase had finally landed at Rovaniemi Airport overnight.
Despite the "modern" tech, Finnair’s communication was stuck in the Stone Age - zero calls, zero updates. Taking my mantra of getting things done to heart, I took a 18 Euro Bolt back to the airport.
The terminal was busy but I managed to grab a Finnair ground services staff member to explain the situation. She palmed me off to a Rovaniemi employee and after talking my way through a series of "staff only" back doors, I eventually found myself in the inner sanctum: the misplaced luggage room. There it was "Big Blue!" - my July bag, sitting lonely in a corner. I grabbed it, gave the confused handler my ID, and walked out like I’d just completed a heist. Thermals: Secured!
Back to regular programming! Time for yet another Bolt rideshare from Rovaniemi Airport. This time to Apukka! We got there at 12pm and was told the room should be ready before 3pm and we would receive a WhatsApp when cleaning had concluded. After a quick bite to eat my phone buzzed and true to their word we received the green light to check into our Kammi Igloo at 1.30pm . Unlike the standard cabins, the Kammi is a two story setup: a cozy and spacious lounge with an electric fireplace and kitchenette downstairs, and the bedroom upstairs under a stunning 360 degree glass roof.
I booked this through my own agency channels. While Apukka is notorious for not offering "igloo upgrades" (they are almost always 100% occupied), the "industry touch" was evident. We were greeted with a bottle of wine, a premium hot chocolate pack, and a selection of local Lappish produce that made the welcome feel truly personal.
What sets Apukka apart is that it feels like a private wilderness estate rather than a crowded tourist hub. Despite being fully booked, it never felt busy. One of the biggest perks is the free hire of thermal gear. They provide high quality warm jumpsuits, boots, gloves, and neck warmers for the duration of your stay. It was nice to compliment the clothes I'd already brought from Australia. For some guests I could see this would save them quite a bit of money instead of hiring warm clothes.
The resort is situated on a massive frozen lake. You can take a leisurely walk across the ice, try your hand at snow tubing down the hills, or just wander over to see the resident reindeers and horses. It has that peaceful, slow travel vibe that is hard to find in the more commercial parts of Rovaniemi (I'm looking at you Santa Claus Village!).
The daily buffet breakfast was substantial. We’re talking everything from traditional Finnish rye bread and cold cuts to a proper egg station and even a chocolate fountain for those who need a sugar hit before hitting the snow. I was a little shocked at the egg etiquette (I see ordering for 2 people as acceptable but I saw guests trying to order 5x omelettes or 4 fried eggs and then barking at the eggselent attendee when she hadn't flipped them at the end! Keen to hear from others their take on this!
With my gear finally back, we threw ourselves into the Apukka activities:
Husky Sledding! This was pure magic. The dogs at Apukka are clearly loved and incredibly high-energy. Being the "musher" (driver) is a genuine workout - you have to balance and brake while the team sprints through the snow-laden forest. The bonus highlight was meeting the husky owners and having a cuddle with the puppies after the ride.
We swapped paws for pistons for a snowmobiling dash across the frozen fields. The scale of the landscape here is hard to describe; it’s a white-on-white world that feels like another planet. Halfway through we stopped off at a traditional Kota to cook Finnish sausages over the wood fire and have a cup of hot blueberry juice. Unfortunately a shot of vodka wasn't added! I got up to 50km speeds which is a little more than expected. It did feel perfectly safe although on the way back I did see two ladies who had gone 'off road' and our guide had to pull their snowmobile out from a ditch!
Our quest for the Northern lights started with a Gold Medal effort but a Did Not Finish result. On our first night, we went out with Arctic GM. Our guide was a legend - we drove for hours, nearly reaching the Russian border in a desperate attempt to find a gap in the clouds. We saw plenty of snow and some very desolate border fences, but the Aurora remained elusive.
Fast forward to our final night at the resort. We were back in the Kammi Igloo, half-resigned to the fact that the "Green Lady" might stay hidden. Then, at 11:30 PM, the sky began to shimmer. Apukka has an aurora alert and it worked wonders confirming what we thought we were seeing!
Although we went outside to take photos I'm sure for some folks they didn't even leave their bed. The Northern Lights began to dance directly above us - vivid greens and hints of purple swirling across the Arctic sky. It was the perfect Closing Ceremony for our time in Rovaniemi.
So my final verdict? Apukka lives up to the hype. It’s a seamless blend of luxury and wilderness - just make sure you pack an AirTag in your bag.
Next up - I make a quick hop back down to Helsinki before the final sprint to Milan for the Olympics. Guess who I'm sitting behind on my flight to Milan!
Last edited:
drross
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Awesome update! Totally agree about Rovaniemi and Santa Claus village - fun but so commercialised. Enjoyed my time as a musher in Canada but totally agree about the physical effort involved…excellent trip report so far. Thank you very much
Notyourbag
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Apukka has a reindeer farm on their property where you can get up close with their animals.
Beautiful sunny morning to greet us
Kammi lodge bedroom was very comfortable!
Beautiful snow capped trees as far as your eyes can see
Time for snowmobiling. The talk hut is a Finnish Kota
Inside the Kota... Cooking Weiner's over a warm log fire with warm blueberry juice.
Dinner at Nili. Starting with a potato, salmon and dill soup.
Braised reindeer (not related to the one in the earlier photo)
Chocolate lava cake with lingonberry ice-cream.
Beautiful sunny morning to greet us
Kammi lodge bedroom was very comfortable!
Beautiful snow capped trees as far as your eyes can see
Time for snowmobiling. The talk hut is a Finnish Kota
Inside the Kota... Cooking Weiner's over a warm log fire with warm blueberry juice.
Dinner at Nili. Starting with a potato, salmon and dill soup.
Braised reindeer (not related to the one in the earlier photo)
Chocolate lava cake with lingonberry ice-cream.
Flyfrequently
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I like the look of that soup @Notyourbag !
Notyourbag
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It was absolutely delicious and full of chunky bits!
Notyourbag
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Apologies for the delay in finishing off this trip report! Getting in the way has been work, another trip (yes there will be a trip report!) and life distractions. Back to it!
After the frozen wonders of Lapland, it was time to head south for the Grand Finale. We flew back down to Helsinki for a one night urban reset before the madness of the Olympics began.
If you’re staying in Helsinki, there is really only one place to be - Hotel Kämp. It’s a legendary property that has hosted everyone from Sibelius to world leaders. The renovated spaces are absolutely stunning. The design thoughtfully celebrates Finnish heritage, featuring wallpaper, textiles, and furniture from Finnish designers that create an authentic sense of place. The recent refurbishment added 22 new rooms, bringing the total to 210 rooms and suites. The Sibelius Suite and Executive Suites also have their own Saunas in the bathroom which is a nice touch!
Booking as an advisor and given Hotel Kämp is a Virtuoso property meant the red carpet was well and truly rolled out. We were upgraded to a stunning Executive Room (from a Deluxe Room) and a $100 USD F&B credit which was immediately earmarked for drinks at the iconic Kämp Bar. Throw in a 4 PM late check-out (which unfortunately we didn't need) and a breakfast spread that defines Scandi-luxe, and it’s easily the best value in the city.
We spent the afternoon walking through the Esplanadi and the Design District before heading to Lappi Ravintola for dinner. It’s a cozy, rustic spot that feels like a high end cabin. We stayed on theme with the reindeer fillet - cooked perfectly medium-rare and some wild cloudberries for dessert.
For a nightcap, we headed to Gate A21. This place is a must-visit for any aviation geek; it’s an airport-themed coughtail bar complete with an actual airplane interior and disco-style lights. Sipping a "Departure" coughtail while sitting in a repurposed cabin seat was the perfect bridge between my flight legs.
The flight to Milan (MXP) was one for the books. As I settled into my seat in the business cabin, I realised the passenger directly in front of me was none other than the Finnish Prime Minister also heading down for the Games.
The security detail was discreet but definitely there. I had their AFP/Secret Service types seated to the PM's side, keeping a very watchful eye on the cabin. The not so obvious earpiece and slicked back Bond villain hair gave it away. It’s not every day you share a morning scrambled eggs and sparkling wine snack with a head of state.
Touchdown in Italy! We caught the train from MXP and checked into Speronari Suites which is just a stone's throw from the Duomo. This is a Tablet Plus property which meant more perks!
They moved us into a beautiful upgraded balcony room. There is nothing quite like opening the French (or Italian!) doors to hear the buzz of Milanese life and the distant bells of the cathedral. It’s a sleek, modern boutique hotel that hits way above its weight class. It actually wasn't the hotel we booked, but after reading reviews and seeing last minute availability we made the switch!
The Opening Ceremony: Milano Cortina 2026 Then came the moment we’d traveled 15,000km for - the Opening Ceremony at San Siro Stadium. The atmosphere was electric. Unfortunately San Siro is a dump of a stadium (I believe they are knocking it down?) and the 1970's called and asked for the legroom and old school seats back. The opening scene with the paint falling from the sky was really magical to watch. Not so magical but perplexing was having Mariah Carey sing/squeak her rendition of Volare. The Italian National Anthem and the emotional performance by Andrea Bocelli set the stadium in a sea of light and Italian pride. Seeing the Olympic flame ignited simultaneously in Milan and Cortina was a goosebumps moment that no TV broadcast could ever capture. It was also an immensely proud moment to cheer on the Aussies when they came in. The two boos from the stadium were reserved for the Israeli Olympic Team and when JD Vance came on screen (not sure if this was captured on the Nine broadcast)?
The party didn't last long, though. At 5am the alarm went off. We had to make the Olympic Relay to the mountains:
Next Up: Medals, Moguls, and staying with an Olympians family unexpectedly!
After the frozen wonders of Lapland, it was time to head south for the Grand Finale. We flew back down to Helsinki for a one night urban reset before the madness of the Olympics began.
If you’re staying in Helsinki, there is really only one place to be - Hotel Kämp. It’s a legendary property that has hosted everyone from Sibelius to world leaders. The renovated spaces are absolutely stunning. The design thoughtfully celebrates Finnish heritage, featuring wallpaper, textiles, and furniture from Finnish designers that create an authentic sense of place. The recent refurbishment added 22 new rooms, bringing the total to 210 rooms and suites. The Sibelius Suite and Executive Suites also have their own Saunas in the bathroom which is a nice touch!
Booking as an advisor and given Hotel Kämp is a Virtuoso property meant the red carpet was well and truly rolled out. We were upgraded to a stunning Executive Room (from a Deluxe Room) and a $100 USD F&B credit which was immediately earmarked for drinks at the iconic Kämp Bar. Throw in a 4 PM late check-out (which unfortunately we didn't need) and a breakfast spread that defines Scandi-luxe, and it’s easily the best value in the city.
We spent the afternoon walking through the Esplanadi and the Design District before heading to Lappi Ravintola for dinner. It’s a cozy, rustic spot that feels like a high end cabin. We stayed on theme with the reindeer fillet - cooked perfectly medium-rare and some wild cloudberries for dessert.
For a nightcap, we headed to Gate A21. This place is a must-visit for any aviation geek; it’s an airport-themed coughtail bar complete with an actual airplane interior and disco-style lights. Sipping a "Departure" coughtail while sitting in a repurposed cabin seat was the perfect bridge between my flight legs.
The flight to Milan (MXP) was one for the books. As I settled into my seat in the business cabin, I realised the passenger directly in front of me was none other than the Finnish Prime Minister also heading down for the Games.
The security detail was discreet but definitely there. I had their AFP/Secret Service types seated to the PM's side, keeping a very watchful eye on the cabin. The not so obvious earpiece and slicked back Bond villain hair gave it away. It’s not every day you share a morning scrambled eggs and sparkling wine snack with a head of state.
Touchdown in Italy! We caught the train from MXP and checked into Speronari Suites which is just a stone's throw from the Duomo. This is a Tablet Plus property which meant more perks!
They moved us into a beautiful upgraded balcony room. There is nothing quite like opening the French (or Italian!) doors to hear the buzz of Milanese life and the distant bells of the cathedral. It’s a sleek, modern boutique hotel that hits way above its weight class. It actually wasn't the hotel we booked, but after reading reviews and seeing last minute availability we made the switch!
The Opening Ceremony: Milano Cortina 2026 Then came the moment we’d traveled 15,000km for - the Opening Ceremony at San Siro Stadium. The atmosphere was electric. Unfortunately San Siro is a dump of a stadium (I believe they are knocking it down?) and the 1970's called and asked for the legroom and old school seats back. The opening scene with the paint falling from the sky was really magical to watch. Not so magical but perplexing was having Mariah Carey sing/squeak her rendition of Volare. The Italian National Anthem and the emotional performance by Andrea Bocelli set the stadium in a sea of light and Italian pride. Seeing the Olympic flame ignited simultaneously in Milan and Cortina was a goosebumps moment that no TV broadcast could ever capture. It was also an immensely proud moment to cheer on the Aussies when they came in. The two boos from the stadium were reserved for the Israeli Olympic Team and when JD Vance came on screen (not sure if this was captured on the Nine broadcast)?
The party didn't last long, though. At 5am the alarm went off. We had to make the Olympic Relay to the mountains:
- The Train: A 2.5-hour scenic dash from Milano Centrale to Tirano on the Trenord line.
- The Shuttle: From Tirano, we hopped on the dedicated shuttle bus climbing up into the heart of the Italian Alps.
Next Up: Medals, Moguls, and staying with an Olympians family unexpectedly!
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