Southern India taste test - would that be hot, or extra hot?

[bPeteb]

We stopped at the ‘magic tree’ where paddles for our rafting magically appeared. Told they were stored in the hollowed out tree to protect them from elephants.

desperately hoping to see some wildlife, any wildlife



back at the morning tea stop. This is the backpack we were all given with water, fruit and tiffin. Unfortunately, mine leeked.



Got down to the lake shore and the rangers told us to be careful as it was very slippery. A couple of minutes later Dennis, after some desperate scrambling was on his cough. I’d said to Dennis earlier “if you go down so will I” and sure enough, as I approached our raft I ended up on my cough too. Muddied but laughing I got onto the raft without further incident.



It was bloody hard work paddling that thing the one km or so before we got off



We went for another walk in search of large mammals. We saw a family of boars at a waterhole and that was it.

We then sat and had lunch – a chickpea curry. Rice and some sandwiches served in tiffins



Then we sat, and sat, and sat some more. I think lunch break was close to 90 minutes. Good for the rangers but way too long for everyone else.

Back onto the rafts to where we started




Both Dennis and I stayed upright as we got off them. Phew!

We walked back exactly the same way and saw some more monkeys and two deer.

a tree scratched by tiger/s. There are between 20 and 30 in the reserve



Back across to the boat landing on the rope pull raft



and after showing our appreciation to the rangers (no one else did, oh well) we joined the queue for the bus back to town.



It was an interesting day. We both enjoyed it but... We had no expectation of seeing wildlife after reading reviews of the safari and that was pretty much correct. Africa has ruined us! We should have accepted the packed breakfast offered by the hotel as we didn’t stop until 10 for fruit. It was bloody humid. It was also sunny v the forecast of some showers so bAlt did not take his hat. I did! The rafting was weird. We paddled across an arm of a lake after walking for 3.5km, and paddled back. Lunch was delicious but the break was too long. We walked back exactly the same way we got to the lake.

We were super glad to meet Dennis and Emma, just a lovely couple.

On the way back to desperately needed showers we stopped and bought some ice creams, and also some soft drink to have with the orange vodka (made in India) that we planned to consume that night.

more photo editing

 

[bPeteb]

we had dinner across the road at Grill&Grove and it was delicious. We'd tried to get in on NYE but it was full



I'm not doing real well with food pictures. It's often gone before I think about it. We had Al Faham Mandi, some bread and pineapple lassis. Excellent

Then we went back and had beer and vodka



this is the standard roll of toilet paper in Kerala so far. I know it's just for drying (well, not for me) but how much can you dry with this much?

 

[bPeteb]

Amazing - great to hear you're loving the trip. There's been interesting challenges along the way from what I'm reading, but you blokes are rolling with it and taking it all in. Love it!

The states are all very different - Kerala is one of the prettiest (the ones along the North bordering the Himalayas are picturesque as well), and the "culture" of each state's population is very different too. Kerala has invested in education - boasting a near-100 (if not fully 100) percent literacy rate, so this helps as well.

If you're back in BLR, do try my favourite local dish if you get the chance, from any local "darshini" (such as here or here), is a "masala dosa" with a healthy serving (or 3) of "sambar". Do try it if you get the chance.

Enjoy!!

I had one my first breakfast at the Taj and have had a couple since. Delicious!!

 

[bPeteb]

Day 7: Kumily to Madurai, 02.01,

What the itinerary says we’ll be doing -

After breakfast, drive to Madurai. Visit famous Meenakshi Temple - a complex dedicated to Shiva and his wife, which is characterized by a wealth of sculptures and decorations, and a multitude of pillars. Visiting Tirumalaha Najak Palace from 1636 with visible Islamic influences.
Overnight - Astoria Hotel.

And what we did -

We were up bright and early and surprisingly not with any aches and pains after our 25,000 steps and two km of paddling.

Got our bags packed and down to breakfast. They tried to warn me off the madras omelette as it was spicy, offering to make me one with no spice. I said I’m ok with spice.



It had clearly poured with rain overnight



and had still been raining when we pulled up the blinds. It’s what we’d expected yesterday for our trek but luckily we got a day of sunshine.

Down we went from the high hills of Kerala



to the agricultural plains of Tamil Nadu. Sunil has said the roads were better and they definitely were. He also said that TN was dirty and Kerala was clean and that also was the case. Way more roadside rubbish in the short time we’d been in TN but Kerala was hardly spotless.



In Kumily we had seen lots of guys in black or blue, shirtless and shoeless.

Once we got down to the range in TN we saw more walking along the road, riding bikes, and packed into little buses and vans, heading back towards Kerala.

I noticed lots of huge signs saying ‘Welcome Ayyama devotees’. Google tells me this

‘Ayyappa devotees are followers of the Hindu deity Lord Ayyappa, known for their rigorous 41-day spiritual penance (Mandala Vratam) involving celibacy, vegetarianism, simple living (sleeping on the floor, bare feet), and wearing black or blue traditional attire (veshti), culminating in the pilgrimage to the Sabarimala Temple in Kerala, symbolising self-control, purity, and devotion, chanting "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa" along the way.

That explains it.

Sunil pointed out lots of grape farms (are they still vineyards even if it’s just for table grapes?) and we stopped at one to have a closer look at them growing. All red. Some is actually used to make non-alcoholic wine and also grape tea, that we were given a sample of. Quite nice.



Looking at the notes that I made as we drove along. We went though a town called coughbum (yep), banana farms, rice paddies, palm oil palms, pawpaws, and sugar cane. Also goat and cattle in decent numbers, in fenced lots, not just wandering along the side of the highway.



We had to stop in Theni so that Sunil could get his permit to drive in TN stamped.

Driving through Theni

 

[bPeteb]

Somewhere along the way we drive for kilometres beside a large windfarm.

Into another town and this appeared behind us and then passed us in the traffic. It's a hearse



Stopped for a coffee and coke for Sunil. We tried the Nattuchakkarai and it was delicious, pretty much like everything we'd eaten and drunk.




cows on the increase beside the road



Eventually the traffic and smog both began to thicken and then we were in Manjore. We pulled up at the Astoria Hotel and were directed across the road to Astoria Hotel 2.0.



Our first room with twin beds but we decided to suck it up. If it happened again I’d let Sunil know.



Decent sized room with a verandah and a view but also with strict instructions to keep it closed to keep the mossies out.



Lunch and dinner were at the Astoria across the road so we dodged the traffic to get over there and had a delicious mutton meal, and an equally nice chicken dish, both starter size. We're learning!

 

[bPeteb]

We didn’t leave to see the sights of Manjore until 3.30.

First stop the Thirumalai Nayak Mahal. Dropped off outside and INR50 each for entry. A stunning piece of architecture dating back to the early 17th century. Massive pillars, stucco work and a huge courtyard. Quite spectacular.

Lunch and dinner were at the Astoria across the road so we dodged the traffic to get over there and had some delicious mutton.

We didn’t leave to see the sights until 3.30.

First stop the Thirumalai Nayak Mahal. Dropped off outside and INR50 each for entry. A stunning piece of architecture dating back to the early 17th century. Massive pillars, stucco work and a huge courtyard. Quite spectacular.

 

[bPeteb]

Then to Meenakshmi Temple. The traffin Madurai. Yikes!!





First issue was parking. Entry road was closed so we dived back into the maelstrom that is traffic in Madurai and went around a very long block. When we got back to the carpark entrance they’d re-opened access from the bloody road and the carpark was now full. Sunil was a little annoyed.

A guide came up to the window and offered his services. Initially we said no and that we’d just have a wander, but he said something to Sunil, then explained a bit about the place to us and we said ok. He and Sunil swapped numbers so we could find him when we got back.

First stop was to drop off our sandals, phones and smart watches at an emporium of some sort. I can hear you all screaming “walk away”.

Then into a very uncrowded entry we went. North gate I think. I’d been WhatsApp chatting to Dennis who we’d met yesterday and they were trying to work out how to get in through the west gate without handing their mobiles over. Maybe we’d made the right choice.

Some recent reviews commented on how terrible it was that all of the towers were under scaffold. Well guess what folks, these amazing places need maintenance and we’ve arrived two years into the once every 15 year cycle. we’d rather they maintain it than be precious about stuff like this.

I’m just going to say this place is epic. Humungous. Giant pillars and sculptures hewn and carved our of single pieces of stone. The stories that were explained to us incredible. I’m sure we were told it dates back over 3000 years. No phones so you’ll just have to search the interweb for images. We skipped a couple of very long queues by coming in with a guide and just wouldn’t have a clue about most of it without him.

Back to pick up sandals, phones and watches and they were all there. Phew! Of course the catch was having to go up to their rooftop terrace to look over the temple

photos from the terrace. bAlt tried Google AI to bring colour to the photos. I think they look ridiculous but each to their own



then back through each level of the store with everyone hoping for a sale. Lovely stuff but no dice. Our home is already overflowing with travel mementos.



Sunil was there waiting for us when we got back to the carpark entrance. Our guide happily accepted his 1500 plus 100 tip. Money well spent.

 

[Ade]

@bPeteb - looks like we both might have been in IXM around the same time. I did a very quick trip to India between 24 Dec and 4 Jan. I did a few days in MAA, IXM, BLR and HYD … and I did Meenakshi Temple as well

 

[bPeteb]

Once we eventually found the car hiding down on the lowest level, it was back to the hotel for a cheeky vodka before 7:30 dinner across at the other Astoria Hotel Hotels in Madurai | Madurai Hotels | List of Hotels in Madurai | Budget Hotels | Business Class hotel in Madurai.



Ignore the chocolate brownie. The carrot halwa was super delicious

 

[bPeteb]

@bPeteb - looks like we both might have been in IXM around the same time. I did a very quick trip to India between 24 Dec and 4 Jan. I did a few days in MAA, IXM, BLR and HYD … and I did Meenakshi Temple as well

I waved to you. Didn't you see me

 

[zig]

Thanks for the wonderful photos and commentary which makes me feel like I'm there with you.

 

[TomVexille]

I spent 6 weeks in Kerala this time of year 15 years ago. This is bringing back many great memories. Thanks for sharing

 

[bPeteb]

Day 8: Tanjor, 03.01

What the itinerary said we were doing

Travel to Tanjor, where we will visit a set of unique temples that are on the UNESCO list. There is a sanctuary, which is covered by a monolithic dome built of a single block of granite weighing 80 tons, which was pulled to the top of the building with the help of a 6 km long ramp, using the ancient technique of building the pyramids used by the Egyptians. Wonderful bronze handicrafts make Tanjore one of the highlights of a trip around South India.
In the afternoon, visiting the Tanjore Palace Complex with interesting exhibitions and a library.
Overnight – Gangam Hotel.

and what panned out

No mossie issues in the room but we had done what was requested and kept the slider closed.

Breakfast was up on the top floor of our building. Loved these little savoury doughnut things




and from there bAlt could see a temple in town he decided he wanted to walk to. So off he went and quite the trek it was, through construction sites and paths that didn't appear to ever have been cleaned. It still only took him about 15 minutes to get there



the temple was quite beautiful but as people were praying bAlt did not want to intrude and stayed outside



nearby mosque



and another small temple



before it was back on the 'path; to the hotel



from our room you can see both the minaret and the emple to the right of it



them it was time to leave Madurai, next destination Thanjavur





our new vehicle proved a bit of a problem for Sunil. The crazy good roads seemed to have no limit (I think 100 in actuality?) but that Suzuki couldn't go a k over 80 and it frustrated Sunil a lot. The smaller Toyota we'd been in and that he'd been driving for years would have loved zooming along these roads



the car designed for all Indians, the Tata Nano, this one compared to most we saw in reasonable condition

 

[bPeteb]

Thanjavur/Tanjore is famous for two very amazing sites. The Tanjore palace, and the temples (of which there are actually quite a few but one maine one). We were visiting both the palace and the Brihadeeswarar Temple with a guide, included in our tour.

Entering Thanjavur and the temple



First to the hotel



I highlighted the name in the first post for this day. There's no such hotel as the Gangam but there is a very nice hotel called the Sangam and I presumed it was just a spelling mistake. We found a few days later that it actually is one of the two hotels used in Thanjavur. Sadly we stayed in the other, the Gnangam Hotel. At least it had a bar!

Up to our room and it was another twin. Once was too many so no way I was staying in a twin considering that I had double checked this with Neeraj before we left.



before careful what you wish for. Imentioned the room to Sunil while were having lunch and he was right on it. Straight back to the front desk to get it fixed. Did we want a room facing the street or the back. We said whatever. Don't ever say this. Always pick the back!

This room would have been quiet



this one certainly wasn't



see the yellow panel on the window? That's packing tape holding it together



decent wetroom bathroom at least



lunch in the bar restaurant, entered from outside. Breakfast was in the non-bar restaurant right next door but entered through the hotel lobby



quite the manger



ever smiling Sunil



what the hotel replaced



it's now well past time to replace this tired old hotel

 

[bPeteb]

Raj our guide was waiting for us when we came down at 4.30. It was this late so we'd see the temple at dusk and dark.

What Google AI says about the palace. There was no way I could keep up with what Raj was telling us

The Tanjore Palace Complex, also known as the Thanjavur Maratha Palace or Aranmanai, is a historical architectural marvel in Thanjavur, India, blending Maratha, Nayak, and European styles, housing the official residence of the Bhonsle family, the Saraswathi Mahal Library, the Rajaraja Chola Art Gallery, and a museum filled with royal artifacts, sculptures, and weaponry. It's a key historical site showcasing vibrant murals and a mix of architectural influences from its various rulers.
Key Components of the Complex:

• Thanjavur Maratha Palace (Aranmanai): The main palace, still the residence of the Bhonsle family.
• Saraswathi Mahal Library: One of Asia's oldest libraries, holding rare manuscripts.
• Rajaraja Chola Art Gallery: Features Chola-era sculptures and artifacts.
• Nayak Durbar Hall: Known for its stunning mural paintings, housing the museum.

Highlights:

• Architecture: A fusion of Maratha, Nayak (Vijayanagara), and European styles.
• Art & Artifacts: Displays royal memorabilia, intricate sculptures, and historic weapons.
• Mural Paintings: The Durbar Hall's ceilings and walls are adorned with vibrant paintings.

Location:

• Adjacent to the famous Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu.

It was quite spectacular. No photos allowed in the library that has quite the collection of stuff, not really another way to describe the eclectic collection. And omg was it hot in that library. Bloody hell.

Anyways photos of everything but the library, including a 30m whale skeleton up in the tower

 

[stm1sydney]

Speaks volumes when you see India (and Thailand, which is where we were for Christmas, and many other non-majority-Christian countries)) openly celebrate Christmas, with "Merry Christmas" everywhere, but Qantas has to say "Happy Holidays." Not happy Jan.

 

[bPeteb]

boys out playing cricket in the fading light



then a stop at a 10th generation bronze making business. It was actually very interesting. They us the lost wax technique and each bronze statue made is unique -

melt bees wax and tree resin together and cool it to make the model. This is covered in layers of clay and heated to dry the clay and melt the wax. Then the mould is filled with the molten metal alloy and cracked out of the mould. bAlt is doing this part in the photos



we have zero idea if we were supposed to bargain when told the price of the Ganesha we chose. We didn't. It was small and not much so were happy with what we paid.

To Brihadisvara Temple. I've added the wiki link. It reminded us of Angkor Wat. It was full of so many people in brightly coloured clothes. Super interesting and it was beautiful to walk in just as the lights were switched on

 

[bPeteb]

and some more



the full moon rising made it even more special



they think this is Marco Polo




truly an amazing place even for avowed aetheists like we are, it was very spritually moving

back to the noisiest hotel in the known universe for dinner



there's a bus station diagonally across from the hotel. Air horns on buses aren't banned in TN like they are in Kerala and those f'n bus drivers blew them all night long. Even my excellent ear plugs stood no chance. Grrrrrrrrrr

 

[bPeteb]

Day 9: Puducherry, 04.01

Itinerary

Visit the capital of the former French colony, the Sri Aurobindo ashram and the temple of the god Ganesha where you can see not only various rituals and representations of the god Ganesha but also a live elephant who blesses the people visiting the temple with its trumpet.
In the evening, walk the boulevard of the rising moon along the Indian Ocean.
Overnight - Bull Boutique hotel

What we actually did.

As I have said in my Tripadvisor/TourRadar review of the tour, Gnanam needs to be dropped. It's tired and unacceptably noisy and not **** in anyone's dreams.

cough night's sleep, if you could call it sleep and an ordinary breakfast. I don't get the furnitire in most hotel restaurants. Big heavy timber chairs and tables that are super difficult to move and take up so much space in the space. Strong and easy to maintain and replace I suppose.

a close up of the coughpy window. That tape was not recent



Devil woman in the dimly lit hallway




unusual toiletries



thankfully back on the road



and yet another amazing tollway



we asked Sunil how much his phone plan cost. INR400/month for unlimited calls inside India and 2GB data/day. Wow!

We stopped at another amazing temple complex - Brihadisvara Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram. Wow yet again.



then went across the road and had a super delicious Inji chai