Safaris and many more adventures in South Africa

[Flying mermaid]

Thanks FM. I read your TR and chose Zambezi Sun based on that. It's only 2 nights I know so I am sure it will be fine. I may end up booking Royal Livingstone (still vacancies). We are flying into VF rather than Livingstone which is a bit of a pain and that was one reason we looked at VF Hotel and also it is where we meet to join the train. However, the Zambian side seems to suit us better for hotels being within the Park. The location of ZS/RL look better.

We certainly preferred the ambience of Royal Livingstone, but you are going to be really busy seeing it all so it will just be a bed for the night.

The exit from the sun hotel complex is literally opposite the entrance to the Falls, so you won't be hassled by any souvenir sellers, unless you choose to walk down to the markets, or across the bridge to the Zimbabwe side. Everyone seemed to have their little patch, so if you just keep saying no until you reach the edge of the seller's territory then they fall back. We really enjoyed our chats but they are pushy, although I think carpet sellers in Turkey are worse . Helicopter definitely worth while if you have time as it really allows to appreciate the structure of the falls.

 

[Mattg]

After arriving in Johannesburg I headed through the international tranfser section, had my passport stamped and headed up to the international departures area. I don't usually buy duty-free but made an exception as the prices in JNB were very reasonable. Judging by the amount of duty-free being collected at the gate when we boarded, I don't think I was the only person to realise this.

I then headed to the Shongololo lounge where I met up with another AFFer, ramboflyer and his wife. We had a great chat and I thought the lounge was pretty good too. (Though Phil said he prefers the BA lounge.)

Some plane spotting at JNB...



Flight: QF64 Johannesburg - Sydney
Boeing 747-400 | VH-OEJ
Departure time: 18:10
Arrival time: 14:00 +1 day



The 747 operating our flight was the old Wunala Dreaming bird, now in a different livery with the boxing kangaroo on the tail. This was a refurbished bird and the difference was noticeable, even in economy. In particular, the IFE and seats were both significantly better and there was a reasonably-stocked self-service snack bar at the back of the plane.

I'd again chosen a seat in one of the blocks of two by the window at the back of the plane. Expert Flyer showed one day out that I had a shadow, but it wasn't to be as the flight ended up being 100% full in economy. Which is good for Qantas, but not necessarily for a comfortable flight... (It was also completely full in premium economy, but I'm told there were a few spare seats in business class.) There seemed to be quite a lot of people coming back from the surfing comp in Jeffreys Bay, though I missed Mick Fanning... he was on Phil's flight the previous day.

We departed on-time and headed out towards the southern Indian Ocean. Dinner was served about two hours into the flight. I had the African beef dish with couscous which was tasty, though I didn't get any photos.

After dinner the lights were switched off and the window shades were all shut (it was night anyway, but we were racing towards the sunrise) and the cabin became quite subdued for most of the rest of the flight.

The flight attendants looked after the full cabin well and the flight was actually quite pleasant, but the timing and the fact that it was an overnight flight made it a challenge. The flight arrives in Sydney at 2pm, though with the time difference that is 6am Johannesburg time. I probably slept for one or two hours at most. At least HBO was available on the IFE to keep me entertained through my insomnia.

Breakfast was served two hours out of Sydney and we ended up arrived a little early.

Overall it was a pleasant and unremarkable flight.

 

[Mattg]

So, I'm now back in Australia. This is where I will end the trip report. I had an amazing time and definitely would say that I've caught the "Africa bug".

South Africa is a great place. There is so much to see and do, and moving around the country can make you feel as though you've changed continents, as different parts are just so different.

We ate out every day, and we could afford to as it was not difficult to get a fantastic meal for under $10. I didn't post too many pictures of food, but we had some fantastic meals. It wasn't just food though that was affordable; just about everything was great value for money by Australian standards.

When I said I was going to Africa, some of my friends asked if I was worried about getting Ebola. One even asked whether there were houses in Africa. Obviously they had never been to Africa and had formed their views from your typical World Vision ad. The fact is that Africa is so much more! It's a beautiful place, the people are some of the friendliest on earth, and depending on where you are, most of the modern conveniences are readily available. And as I said, it's also a very affordable place to visit.

If you've been to Africa, you'll know what a great place it is. And if you haven't, please don't be put off by uninformed stereotypes. There is a lot going for it and I'd encourage you to visit and make up your own mind!

I had a lot of fun in South Africa, and will no doubt return sometime in the future.

 

[Flying mermaid]

When I said I was going to Africa, some of my friends asked if I was worried about getting Ebola. .

When we went to Singita in Tanzania last year we thought numbers seemed low but the camps only take 18 people so I thought maybe it was normal and when we got to their main lodge Sasakwa, which I knew took up to 34 and there were only 6 of us there, I finally asked why numbers were so down in their peak season. They said they had had huge cancellations due to Ebola! I am not sure how far away Tanzania is - thousands of Km anyway! We were happy - had a vehicle and a driver to ourselves for almost the entire time

I am glad you enjoyed it - the people are wonderful. The whole continent has gigantic challenges, made worse by endemic corruption but eventually a bright future.

 

[kpc]

I love Africa and can't wait for an opportunity to get back...the only annoying thing was that we had to take antimalaria medication (Malarone) for the areas we went to, the the medication was not without side effects.

 

[Mattg]

I love Africa and can't wait for an opportunity to get back...the only annoying thing was that we had to take antimalaria medication (Malarone) for the areas we went to, the the medication was not without side effects.

That's true. I'm acutely aware of this at the moment, and will continue to be as I have to continue taking medication for a couple of weeks now.

 

[Flying mermaid]

I love Africa and can't wait for an opportunity to get back...the only annoying thing was that we had to take antimalaria medication (Malarone) for the areas we went to, the the medication was not without side effects.

It is a problem - we are about to go and get our third set of anti malaria in a year. We have steered clear of Malarone as we have heard the side effects are bad. We have stuck to Doxycycline and one of the guides last year told us he thought it was the safest. You do have to be careful with burning but it doesn't seem to have much effect with us and we take a probiotic which stops any nausea. main downside is the length of time you need to take it.

 

[JohnM]

I love Africa and can't wait for an opportunity to get back...the only annoying thing was that we had to take antimalaria medication (Malarone) for the areas we went to, the the medication was not without side effects.

Every time I've been in a malaria risk area, I have taken doxycycline. Never a sign of any side effects. The biggest downside is having to remember to take it for so long after leaving the area.

 

[Mattg]

Every time I've been in a malaria risk area, I have taken doxycycline. Never a sign of any side effects. The biggest downside is having to remember to take it for so long after leaving the area.

That's the one I'm using. Haven't had too many problems with nausea but have been getting rather sunburnt (it probably doesn't help that I also have rather pale skin). The biggest thing though as you've said is remembering to take it every day, long after you're already back home.

 

[Cool Cat Phil]

So, I'm now back in Australia. This is where I will end the trip report. I had an amazing time and definitely would say that I've caught the "Africa bug".

South Africa is a great place. There is so much to see and do, and moving around the country can make you feel as though you've changed continents, as different parts are just so different.

We ate out every day, and we could afford to as it was not difficult to get a fantastic meal for under $10. I didn't post too many pictures of food, but we had some fantastic meals. It wasn't just food though that was affordable; just about everything was great value for money by Australian standards.

When I said I was going to Africa, some of my friends asked if I was worried about getting Ebola. One even asked whether there were houses in Africa. Obviously they had never been to Africa and had formed their views from your typical World Vision ad. The fact is that Africa is so much more! It's a beautiful place, the people are some of the friendliest on earth, and depending on where you are, most of the modern conveniences are readily available. And as I said, it's also a very affordable place to visit.

If you've been to Africa, you'll know what a great place it is. And if you haven't, please don't be put off by uninformed stereotypes. There is a lot going for it and I'd encourage you to visit and make up your own mind!

I had a lot of fun in South Africa, and will no doubt return sometime in the future.

I agree wholeheartedly with your Comments Matt.

As I overheard another fellow traveller comment on our Twilight Game Drive In Kruger NP :
" Africa Gets into your Blood"

I think the above comment pretty much sums it up for myself also, although I would also add " Addictive" as another adjective to describe Southern Africa

I have been 3 times to Southern Africa in the past 2 years and yet I would be more than happy to visit again in the next year or so for yet another return visit.

Botswana & Namibia are both amazing countries to explore with their unique landscapes and are so worth exploring on a second visit to Southern Africa.

Southern Africa has amazing Wildlife, Beautiful Scenery & vista's, some of the world's most humble people who don't exactly have much wealth behind them , and culture that's both confronting, and also a celebration of various cultural identities.

You can never get too much of a good thing whilst on holiday I say!

 

[Flying mermaid]

We definitely get nausea with doxycycline, but we take the malaria tablet in the morning and an inner Heath in the evening, and it seems to stop any problems.

 

[Milboo]

Agree that Africa gets in your blood. I would have returned this year but timing did not work so itching for next year now.

Livingstone airport - sounds like they have progressed things a little. When we flew out there were a few souvenir shops, a duty free and a coffee/ tea kiosk. There was nowhere to buy anything to eat!

For others visiting - can I recommend staying out of the townships. We stayed here - Victoria Falls River Lodge | Zimbabwe Safari Lodge and loved it. Right on the Zambezi banks and got twice daily boat cruises or game drives. Transfers into town were easy - either by boat or jeep. We sat on the deck of our 'tent' and watched elephants crossing the Zambezi against the setting sun and woke in the mornings to the hippos calling!

 

[Flying mermaid]

A friend sent me this quote today " When you have been born in Africa you are marked by Africa and wherever you go you are a displaced person for you have two identities.". People who fall in love with Africa experience a similar effect.

 

[Mattg]

A friend sent me this quote today " When you have been born in Africa you are marked by Africa and wherever you go you are a displaced person for you have two identities.". People who fall in love with Africa experience a similar effect.

Another one I've heard: "I'm not African because I was born in Africa. I'm African because Africa was born in me."

 

[Imw]

I love Africa, because I have never met such beautiful vibrant passionate people who I have found tops in service and friendliness. Not to mention amazing country. Yes I know I am biased cos I married one!!!!

Another one I've heard: "I'm not African because I was born in Africa. I'm African because Africa was born in me."

 

[lovetravellingoz]

As a driver I have been pleasantly surprised at the courtesy that has been shown on the roads along the garden route so far, where slow moving trucks pull over to the side of the road & allow faster cars to pass.

All faster moving cars always flash
the hazard lights for a few seconds to say thanks to those slower moving cars/trucks once passed.

I beginning to wonder the courtesy (or lack thereof at times) of the drivers back home in my home state of Victoria.
But the driving isn't over yet in South Africa, so I won't over evaluate too much

Australian drivers in Australia are basically the world's worst drivers with respect to lack of courtesy and willingness to share the road.

I just drove 4500km fron Nairobi to Vic Falls, several hundred km in the Cape Town Region and another 1100km in the Kruger Park and Region and everywhere other drivers would let you know where they were, would let you in, thank you for letting thin in or to pass etc. In Africa as in Asia the car-horn is used to advise where another vehicle is, rather than to abuse other motorists as it is in Australia.

 

[Gem56]

Eventually we found our way and were passing through the gate into Kruger National Park.

View attachment 52301

We stayed in the park for two nights. When we booked about 3 months ago, there were only one or two cabins available in the park on each night, and they weren't in the same camp. We ended up taking what we could get, which was a small hut in the Pretoriuskop Rest Camp the first night and a larger cabin in the Letaba Camp the second night.

We enjoyed staying in the park and found the accommodation perfectly adequate. But the only way to book is through SA National Parks, and their website really isn't great.

My advice if you would like to stay in the park would be to book as far in advance as possible (probably at least 6 months ahead would be ideal). According to one lady I spoke to, bookings for next year open on 22 July (at 7.30am South African time) for phone bookings, and the following day for internet bookings. So if you're looking at going next year, you might want to keep that in mind.

As I said, we stayed the first night in a small hut in Pretoriuskop Camp. The room was fairly small but we did have a fridge, table and an air conditioner. Shared bathrooms were a short walk away.

View attachment 52302

View attachment 52303

There would have been about 100 cabins on the site, so it wasn't that small. There was also a petrol station, shop and restaurant on-site. To our (pleasant) surprise, they weren't price gouging either... Petrol bought in the camp was exactly the same price as the petrol we bought in Nelspruit earlier that day.

Interestingly, the restaurant was a Wimpy, which is a South African fast food chain...

View attachment 52304

Fabulous tips Mattg. Thanks to your great TR we have now successfully booked 3 nights in Kruger in 3 different camps hoping to see as much as possible. We only have 4 nights in SA so wanted to make the most of it in Kruger. This community is a wonderfully reliable tool for travellers information. Love your photos.

 

[Mattg]

Fabulous tips Mattg. Thanks to your great TR we have now successfully booked 3 nights in Kruger in 3 different camps hoping to see as much as possible. We only have 4 nights in SA so wanted to make the most of it in Kruger. This community is a wonderfully reliable tool for travellers information. Love your photos.

Great stuff! Enjoy

 

[Cool Cat Phil]

Fabulous tips Mattg. Thanks to your great TR we have now successfully booked 3 nights in Kruger in 3 different camps hoping to see as much as possible. We only have 4 nights in SA so wanted to make the most of it in Kruger. This community is a wonderfully reliable tool for travellers information. Love your photos.

Great to hear!

Sounds like you managed to snare some accommodation directly with South African National Parks, which as Mattg pointed out, gets snapped up very quickly in advance.
IMHO, staying in the camps themselves is a fantastic, affordable and time-saving method of visiting Kruger NP and enhances the experience.
My only tip when driving in the NP is, watch the speed limit, the Cops with radar guns are common well disguised.

 

[Gem56]

Great to hear!

Sounds like you managed to snare some accommodation directly with South African National Parks, which as Mattg pointed out, gets snapped up very quickly in advance.
IMHO, staying in the camps themselves is a fantastic, affordable and time-saving method of visiting Kruger NP and enhances the experience.
My only tip when driving in the NP is, watch the speed limit, the Cops with radar guns are common well disguised.

I have certainly read that on many occasions, however we really appreciate the reminder. We are fortunate that we managed to get accommodation this close to going to SA. We arrive in JNB on 19 October. We're now in the process of booking drives and braais. So excited! Thanks Cool Cat Phil.