Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildlife

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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

There seems to be a decent amount of small scale development going on in the village/town. Small pousadas and standalone holiday houses. I hope it’s remote enough to not get spoiled.
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We headed down to the beach to have a swim and to watch the sunset. Much nicer than from the dunes the evening before. The water was amazingly warm. It reminded me of swimming in the gulf at Key Largo.
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The kite surfer zipping around in the twilight just added to the magic.
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Aerial view of the area showing Atins out by the coast, just a small part of the two dune systems, and the river winding back to Barreirinhas
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Andres has been coming to Atins for years and we had dinner at the house of the people he has always stayed with. It was a little odd having the elderly couple hovering round waiting for us to ask for another drink or to clear something away but the meal of slow cooked mackerel was delicious.
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On the way back to inn we stopped at Pescadoro’s pousada and restaurant and booked a tour to the dunes for the morning. Time for another couple of caipirinhas before bed.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Wednesday 14[SUP]th[/SUP] June, Atins – Sao Luis

Breakfast was served down the road. The ladies who’d been in the bus and on the boat were there. One came over and started talking to us. This is where we found out they were from Sao Paulo. They were very interested that we'd come all the way from Australia to visit northeast Brasil. Well, Brasil in general. They’d been on a private trip to see the scarlet ibis the evening before and said it was excellent. We only managed to see a couple in the distance.

We went back to our place to wait for our tour. A 4WD arrived and it seemed like he was looking for us

Lots of donkeys wandering around
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Andres had said we’d be picked up at 8:45 but there was no sign of him. We got in the truck and drove around looking for him. It’s a tiny place but there was no sign. We went back to the inn and there he was.

By the sounds of things the usual tour is to the Green Lagoon but that started earlier was a longer drive with an hour walk in each direction. Even Andres, who was recovering from a horrific accident a few months before, thought a shorter walk, with more swimming, and lunch, was a better idea.

So that’s what we did. The dunes of the southern tip of the Lencois Maranhenses begin just out of Atins

The thriving metropolis of Atins :)
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It was not much more than a five minute drive to reach the marshland on the edge of Atins with the dunes stretching away in the distance
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We called in to Restaurante do Sr. Antonio where we pre-ordered lunch – grilled shrimp. Seemed to have a different name once you got in the door...
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Close now Boca68 :)

Unexpectedly we were met at the airport by our guide. We’d only expected a driver. Andres was a bit like Roberto in Brasilia in that he started with info the moment we got into the van. We were exhausted so sadly it was a bit of blah, blah blah, blah except for “Don’t walk up the hill away from hotel if you go out tonight” and “the old town has 3000 buildings registered in its World Heritage Listing”. The irony of the latter only became apparent four days later… Oh, and that we would be his first English speaking tour.

The centre of the old town is car free but luckily our hotel was only a block inside the walking town. Andres said his goodbyes with a final reminder he’d be picking us up just after 7 and not to walk up the hill from the hotel, only down. Eek!

Portas Da Amazonia Pousada Portas da Amazonia was/is quite amazing. Three, I think, maybe three and a half levels inside a number of old buildings that have been kind of restored. There’s rammed earth (that looks more like rammed stone) walls, courtyards, internal verandahs, uneven floors of beautiful wide boards and a rabbit warren of hallways and staircases.

Our room was of course on the top floor that you got to by going up two levels, down half a level, then up another level. It was worth the climb though because the room was HUGE. A giant four poster bed dominated the gigantic space
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Best of all was the four shuttered windows that looked out across the town. Wow! Sadly we had just a night to enjoy it.

We had a quick walk around the town that was decorated for the coming Bumba-meu-boi celebrations
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remembering not to go up the hill, only down. Sao Luis has one of the highest murder rates in Brasil! We ended up having dinner at the pizzeria in the same building as the hotel. Brasilians love everything Italian, and pizzerias, and freezing cold beer
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Excellent pizza and risotto.

Portas de Amazonia is the same place we have stayed in twice before , (2006 and 2012). Ufff! trying to remember the owners name, it escapes me right now. But, he was a great. It's a beautiful building.

Glad you seem to enjoying Sao Luis and the Lencois. :D Making me want to go back again.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

We stopped at the bottom of a dune where a family of goats were out for a stroll
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and headed up. The dunes literally disappeared over the horizon and in between them small lakes
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The ones here were deeper, and had more stuff growing in them – small water lilies, grasses – indicating that some of them never dried up
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We walked for quite a while and had a couple of swims. The young couple we’d passed earlier (crazy people, it was seriously hot) came over the top of a dune and started talking to Andres. Turns out they were French, one of the five languages Andres could speak fluently (Spanish, Portuguese, French, German and English). They chatted while we swam then they eventually got in the water as well.
 
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Wow - thanks for some great photos.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Lunch was delicious. A very large plate of delicious fresh prawns washed down by super cold beer.
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We’d been able to leave our bags in our room and then have a quick shower before we started back to Barreirinhas and ultimately Sao Luis.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Pescadoro took huge pleasure in pointing out to me various birds as we sped back to Barreirinhas. I managed to get a couple of unblurred shots that elicited big smiles when I showed them to him.
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Our transfer back to Sao Luis was with the same company who’d brought us to Barreirinhas. They were a good hour late and the only seats left were in the back row of a medium size coach. It was super cramped and super cold. Our first strike out with transport or lodgings of the trip. We stopped half way back at a different roadside café. We chose icecreams. Nothing else appealed.

At least we got a nice sunset
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We changed transport at the airport. We got into a smaller bus that would drop us in the old town. Andres was taking us on the walking tour in the morning but lived in the opposite direction so said his goodbyes.

We weren’t so lucky with our room at Amazonia. We went from their largest room to no doubt their smallest. Win some loose some.
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The aircon worked, the bed was comfortable, the door locked. All was ok.

Bumba-meu-bois was in full flight in Sao Luis. The old town was heaving. A whole lot of very happy people listening to music and eating and drinking. Lots of people were eating something that looked very similar to poutine. I wasn’t interested in food, just beer, and Al wasn’t keen on going and asking for some so he missed out.

Lots of young gay couples. I just hadn’t expected it in macho Brasil. Holding hands, hugging, kissing. It was fantastic to see. We just wouldn’t be game at home unless we were in one of our gay ghettos. How sad…

What a cracker of a day. We could have definitely chilled out in the Lencois Maranhenses for another couple of days. Sadly we had just one more day in Brasil.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Thursday 15[SUP]th[/SUP] June, Sao Luis – Sao Paulo

The noise outside continued well into the night. It came in through a vet in the ceiling. I put ear plugs in but Al (foolishly) resisted.

Andres arrived right on time for our walking tour of the old town. What an incredibly sad experience. Some of buildings date back to the mid-1600s. It is an amazing place with such an incredible history.

As I said earlier, the old town is World Heritage listed and over 3000 individual buildings are included in that listing. I seriously doubt a large number of them are still standing. We saw street after street of buildings either on the verge of, or that had, pretty much fallen down. Roofs collapsed in, tiling stripped off facades, the patterned granite pavements stripped of stones. Andres despaired. He loved this place but could see no hope for it.

The UN has threatened to remove its listing more than once, and with it the cash and status. Each time the governor throws some money at the town and puts up some scaffold around a building or paints something. But it’s all smokescreens. They paint a building with the poorest quality paint, re-tile with terrible stencilled tiles, re-pave and the locals just steal the stone. Within a year it looks like no repairs have been made. It was hauntingly beautiful and just so incredibly sad. It could be amazingly beautiful but the majority of the locals don’t seem to care.

Should they? Did they want the town heritage listed? Brasil has grown up very quickly over the last 20 years. As Andres said people were dying of starvation 20 years ago. They’ve now hosted a World Cup and the Olympics in the last three years at what cost to the general population. The gap between rich and poor is growing.
See Sao Luis while you can…
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The part of Sao Luis that people actually want to live in.The modern, sterile bit...
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I'm sure this building was from the 1600s!
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

We had a walk through the market. I love the colours of markets

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These crabs reminded me of the snakes and scorpions you see in bottles of spirits in Asia
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Somehow our airport pick-up had been booked for the wrong time. I had noticed 16:00 on one of the last emails but had forgotten to contact the agency. When Andres was saying his final goodbyes he mentioned the pick-up time and I said that would see us get there after our flight to Sao Paulo had left. He was on the phone for a while sorting it out. Due to the public holiday the agency was closed but he knew who the driver would be. He’d been an excellent guide. He’s going back to Mendoza where he’ll run custom tours of the region and has offered us his services. We will very possibly take him up on his offer.

A scruffy young guy had followed us round a bit during the walking tour and he came into the lobby of the pousada as we waited. After Andres told us about having a gun pulled on him at 7:30 in the morning outside a restaurant two doors up the hill I was a little wary. When Al suggested we walk up to the corner to wait for the transfer I said not a chance! Luckily the driver walked in the door a few minutes later.

We drove a different way to the airport through some more of the crumbling old town. People have different priorities. Making a living is understandably more important than making sure you pass the next UNESCO inspection…

Sao Luis airport is even more ordinary than Fortaleza’s
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Myer Christmas window eat your heart out. These two, and the bull, represent the story behind the festival on in Sao Luis
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Just about zero seating before you go through to the departures area and then few food options once you’re trapped.

It was an A321 down to Sao Paulo. I chose row ?? 20 something that was a two in front of the exit row. Space to burn beside me
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In fact we thought all of the Y seats we sat in had a good amount of legroom, more than QF we both thought. A hot snack on this flight of a toasted cheese bun
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30 minutes late leaving and 50 minutes late arriving into GRU. Some fantastic turbulence not far out that had a few of the peeps on board screaming loudly. It was more fun that scary. Al would beg to disagree.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

With a very early flight in the morning we chose the Mercure at Guarulhos. It was a good price, and from terminal 2 offered a free shuttle. It was right outside when we walked out and instead of being BRL7 each (a bargain) we didn’t get asked to pay.
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The room was huge. I’m guessing it’s aimed at long stay business people as it had a kitchenette a living room and a large office area.
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We had dinner downstairs as there wasn’t really any other options. We ordered some local bubbles with the meal and the conversation that ensured was hilarious and embarrassing. We had a few basic words but do you think we used them, or listened carefully enough, or got out my phone and used google translate? Nah. After at least five minutes of back and forth, the poor waiter even retreating to the kitchen at one point, I finally worked out all he as after was our room number!

In the end I reckon we should have just had room service. My ‘stewed’ steak was pretty ordinary and the bubbles equally so. At least Al’s meal was nice (not even worth pictures...)
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Friday 16[SUP]th[/SUP] June, Sao Paulo - Brisbane

We were checked out and in a taxi to the airport at 5:30am. We could have got the shuttle but it would only have got us to terminal 2 and we were flying to Santiago from terminal 3.

Check-in was an unusual experience. As a Qantas Gold/One World Sapphire I should be able to check-in at the business class counter. I saw the line and even though it said LATAM business, premium economy and One World Emerald I thought I’d give it a go. No sir, please go round the corner. We were directed down the ‘Preferente’ Lanpass line, and there we stood, and waited, and waited. More people joined us and eventually after a good 15 minutes a couple got pissed that we were going nowhere and went and spoke to who I guess was a supervisor. Next minute we were directed back around to the business check-in where we should have been allowed to check-in in the first place. No-one else though, so I’m not sure what had been said.

It was only as we walked away that I noticed our seats had changed on the flight to Santiago. Not that it’s the end of the world but we weren’t even sitting together. I asked if we could be moved at the very nice (and huge) LATAM lounge
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but there were only single seats. Why we’d been split I have no idea. So much for One World status.

Amazingly the flight left on time but somehow lost 20 minutes on the way across to Santiago. A kind of three course meal – crackers and cheese, a ham and cheese bun and some fruit salad. It also came with butter and jam. I have no idea where we were supposed to spread either.

I've hit my photo limit so it's just words for the rest :)

We again had no issues with the ‘international transit’ signage at Santiago. Maybe we have a habit of looking up? Through security in minutes. This time we knew where the lounge was and it was very quiet compared to previously.

As we boarded there was an additional liquids screening. We had nothing, but unless you had your duty free in a sealed bag everything else over 100ml was being taken.

Our upgrade to business wasn’t successful but Qantas premium economy is pretty good. I’d picked bulkhead seats (36 J/K) when we originally booked and when the plane changed I contacted Qantas to get them back and was given – 34 A/B.

Welcomed on board with a glass of bubbles but somehow I managed to knock it over on to my seat. Luckily the toilet was right in front of us so I jumped up and grabbed a huge pile of the cloth towels they have in the loos. They worked a treat. I resisted asking for another glass!

It was a long and seemingly slow take-off. Santiago isn’t very high but it’s surrounded by mountains so I watched with much interest as the wings flexed as we climbed.

The Qantas PE seats are really comfortable and of course the front row even more so as no-one can recline into you. Saying that, I think the ‘new’ Air NZ PE seats are better, and their soon to be retired Space Seats better again. I also think the wine served on Air NZ in both PE and Business is better but of course wine is a very personal thing.

I started off with a vodka and ginger beer, then another and, well, maybe even another. I even got Al to give them a go. Hooked!

The flight back from South America is an odd one. You start with dinner, then many, many hours later you second meal is, well dinner. We both had the lasagne with spinach and ricotta for first dinner and it was really nice, and huge! The green salad, the same one served in business is hilarious - half a dozen green leaves plus some vinaigrette. Chocolate mousse in a plastic container. Just a bit budget.

I didn’t bother with a movie and chose sleep instead. I managed to get quite a few hours but Al said he hardly slept a wink. To make it worse they woke us too early for the second meal. Tim, one of our FAs, said everyone was awake so they thought they’d do the second service a bit early. Not really the right answer…

Because we were behind the business class galley we knew they had dinner a long time later.

For second dinner I had seared miro with herb butter, yellow squash risotto, roast pumpkin, almonds and broccoli and Al had braised chicken with sweet potato, sauteed spinach and corn. The same hilarious salad and this time another dessert from the Coles refrigerated cabinet – banana bread (?), chocolate mousse (again) and dulce sauce.

The view as we flew over the NZ Alps with the sun setting on them was quite beautiful.

We arrived late into Sydney.

Maybe because we’d been to Brasil we couldn’t use Smart Gates so immigration took forever, the bags the same. So much for priority tags.

At least we didn’t get our bags searched. There was nothing in them, well apart from our clothes and some very clean shoes, but it seemed if you came in on QF28 chances were you got searched.

We’d upgraded to business for our last flight. It’s amazing that Qantas have no flights between 5:30ish and 9:45 on a Saturday night. It’s a whole lot of waiting but if you’re going to wait, you might as well do it in a lounge with a view.

Adam Liaw was busy on his laptop beside us until his flight to Perth was called.

And so it was time to board our last flight. It had been an incredibly long day but why cut the food and drink off. Al declined dinner (it was after 10pm!) but I had a surprisingly delicious salmon with green beans and mash, washed down with a full selection of what was available. Even with all of that alcohol in us we had the worst night’s sleep, and continued to for the next week.

It was such a different holiday. Some fantastic experiences. I’d been so busy with work leading up to it I’d spent no time doing any reading of what we’d been doing. Maybe that was why I came home a bit underwhelmed. I didn’t know what to expect and therefore expected more than I got. We spent more per day than on any holiday we’ve taken and I suppose I was, and am still, wondering where it went.

The Brasilian people were the highlight for me. Such a great sense of humour. Such huge smiles. So friendly.

I’m glad that we finished with the Lencois Maranhenses. It was beautiful and is the one place I would willingly return to.

It’s a long way away but bring on our return to Japan in May 2018. Like we’d been warned, once you fly business you don’t want to fly anything else, so of course we’re flying business, one paid seat and one points seats. We’re looking at it as two business seats for the price of one because points are free! Also looking forward to trying the Qantas business suites in the A330 as the Sky Bed is really not that great.
 
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Thanks for another interesting TR - seems you were a bit disappointed but it looked great from here
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Maybe I was. I think there was just too much travel in this trip. The Lencois and the street art walking tour I loved. The Pantanal tour required me to actually look at where we were going and what we were doing so I didn't end up expecting more. After last year's trip I wanted to go straight back to Peru. Brasil isn't calling me back...
 
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Thank you BPB for the trip report. Especially enjoyed the photos of Brasilia, I had no idea of the architecture.
 
Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Thanks for the TR and the photos of some really interesting architecture. I have seen photos of Brasilia for years, but yours put it into better context. My wife has now also joined the group of those who have flown Business and don't want to go back.
 
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Re: Race around Brasil - two mad weeks in search of good food, architecture and wildl

Thanks for an interesting TR.
But a word of warning.Once you are travelling J regularly don't do a points award for F.You find then your points balance going down a lot faster.!
 
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