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Sounds like it was the Mercado del Puerto in Montevideo - lots of restaurants and parillas.
And yes, that early morning last day is a killer.
Boca was a no go zone for Gringo's in 2009.
Our tour guide was quite confident about our safety but we did see a whole group of stall keepers go after a young bag snatcher who was roughed up.
The guide said that the stall keepers want the tourists and try to keep the streets quiet.
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