Oh Babushka - trips within a trip - Thailand, UAE, Oman, Spain, Portugal, UAE again, Sri Lanka and Singapore

Friday 29 Nov 2024 - Dubai - Seat Son Buys A House

Up and on the road by 0830 today for an important appointment in Dubai at the Settlement Office - Seat Son's house settles today!

This was another fascinating cultural insight, starting with the fact that Almost DIL is not officially part of this purchase - as they are not yet married, an unmarried man and woman are not permitted to jointly own a property. The next interesting thing is that all settlement is conducted physically. There is nothing electronic about the transaction except the ultimate emailing of a link to the title once the process is all completed. so strap in for an experience and a half!

When we arrived at the Settlement Office, it was patriotically decorated for UAE National Day. It was a bit OTT, but the entry foyer seemed calm and like any other government office. Ha!!!! Oh, and it was Friday, the last working day before the 4 day long weekend, which is taken very seriously in the UAE. Plus, Fridays mean Friday Prayers - every Friday at about 1 pm, a large proportion of the population goes to mosque for the holiest prayers, which take a fair while, and many don't come back to work afterwards. So it was a bit of a perfect storm of time pressures.

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Walk through that arch, and it was like another world, a chaotic, shambolic, frenetic, loud parallel universe. I wasn't able to take photos - I felt awkward doing so, as there were big signs up saying no phone, no camera, so I will have to paint a picture with words. For those who are old enough, get a picture in your mind of the New York Stock exchange in the 1987 market crash - people yelling down the phone and at each other; others running from one end of the office to the other, waving strips of paper; clerks frantically pounding on their keyboards, and people lined 5 or 6 deep at every service position. For the younger, maybe a bit like the last minute tote betting at the Melbourne cup?

The reception area was totally jammed with people. This made me wonder a lot of things. Firstly, I wondered how it was possible that so many people were buying houses. Secondly, I wondered, with naive smugness, why they hadn't made an appointment like we had.

OK here we go. There were so many people because for just our transaction there were 12+ people:
  • the buyer (Seat Son)
  • the buyer's real estate agent (yes that is a thing)
  • the buyer's independent witness (Almost DIL)
  • anyone else the buyer wanted to be at the transaction ( me and Mr Seat 0A for instance)
  • the seller (a middle aged Indian lady)
  • the seller's real estate agent
  • the seller's independent witness (her sister)
  • anyone else the buyer wanted to be at the transaction (two other female relatives)
  • the settlement agent
  • the settlement trustee
  • a passing parade of IT staff (spoiler alert she foreshadows part of the reason that the settlement too over 3 hours to complete!)
I can only assume that every other transaction had a similar cast of participants.

So when we arrived at 1015 for the 1030 appointment, the first step was to check in. We joined the shortest line, with about 5 people and started to wait to check in. The general level of hubbub was loud. After about 10 minutes in line, we heard a piercing shout in a strong Scouser accent "Seat Son, over here". Bless her, Seat Son's real estate agent had earnt her commission by working out that it was likely to be busy for the reasons described above and had arrived at 0930 to line up to check in on his behalf. Clearly not her first rodeo.

So after only 15 minutes in the mayhem, we were ushered into a settlement room with the settlement agent, who told us she would take Seat Son through some of the preliminaries while we waited for the seller to be checked in. I bet you can guess how that went! So the settlement agent starts to run through a long list of documents required for the transaction, asking if Seat Son has them with him. Some he did, but others he had previously emailed to the settlement office on their request and so had not brought them with him. "Tut, tut" she said, "you need to have a physical copy with you. I will look on the email and see if I can find it and we can print it out. Much huffing and puffing and clacking on the keyboard, before she said, "no, you have not emailed the documents to the settlement office." Now this is a red rag to a lawyer, so Seat Son pulled out his phone and scrolled for a while and showed her that the emails had indeed been sent, and that they also said that there was no need to bring physical copies if the documents were emailed in before settlement day. "Oh no" she said, "that's just wrong. You must have physical copies. I will look again." By the time she was on her 4th look again, the seller and her entourage arrived, and it was soon discovered that she too had emailed documents, did not have them with her, and those documents could also not be found in the email system. At about this point, she called IT Help Desk, and in a universal cultural experience, apparently they were not very helpful 😆 , so off she went to find a person who could help with the email issue. she came back soon after with 2 IT people who did the whole did you shut it down and start again thing (even though it was all in Arabic, these exchanges were achingly familiar 😂), before some concerned looks, some more keyboard clacking, and the pronouncement that it was actually the settlement portal that was down "overloaded because it is so busy today - almost like the day before Ramadan" and the missing documents were probably on the portal, but the portal couldn't be opened at the moment. So perhaps we would all like some mint tea while we waited?

We all accepted, and waited. And waited, and waited, and waited some more. The noise levels rose as other settlements also stalled and people with later appointments tried to check in. Eventually, at about 1200, they started turning away people with appointments who had not yet been able to check in - come back on Wednesday.

By 1230, the seller was getting very antsy, and started to make like she was going to leave. Seat Son did NOT want this to happen, because settlement could not proceed if she was not physically present and his cheque for $1m was literally burning a hole in his pocket. So we all took turns to engage her in some conversation. As the female next closest in age to the seller, it culturally fell to me to carry the small talk. So of course, I started with questions about her family. "This is my son who will buy your house, and he will get married soon to Almost DIL. Are you lucky enough to also have some children?" So that opened up a useful line of inquiry. She was getting antsy because her children would be home from school at 1300 and she needed to be there to greet them and make their lunch. Thinking they must be quite small children, I enquired after their ages, the be told that her son was 18 years old and her daughter 17 years old :eek: - there's another fascinating cultural difference right there.

But inshallah, things went our way when the portal suddenly kicked to life at about 1235 and lo and behold, all the documents were there and could be printed. To this day I don't know why they had to be printed if they were all present and correct on the portal, but that is how it went. Things really started to move along now and by 1250 we all transferred over to the settlement trustee's office so that the legal formalities could be completed - Scanning of Emirates ID cards, fingerprinting of both buyer and seller, and transfer of the funds to the trustee, who in turn would raise a Trustee cheque for the seller. Seat Son had engaged the settlement trustee in a bit of Arabic banter, commenting on the busy day, and how close it was running to Friday prayers and did the trustee need to get to prayers. He smiled at that and said that he would make his peace with Allah later in the day, which was very kind of him. So a lot of paperwork took place, the bank cheque for $1m was handed over and everyone thought we were home and hosed.

But it was not to be - it was now 1315, and the transfer auditor had gone to prayers. What the actual???? Yes, there had to be a physical audit of all the documentation and the cheque etc before the title could be transferred. So transfer of title will be delayed until Wednsday, and the seller will need to return on Wednesday to collect her trustee cheque for $1m. So, at 1345, we left, empty handed.

I will never criticise PEXA again!!!!!

What a truly Middle Eastern cultural experience that was.

Despite the slightly anti-climactic ending to the process, Seat Son and Almost DIL were in good spirits - they have lived here long enough to know that nothing, but nothing, ever runs smoothly. So we headed over to Almost DIL's parents' house. Her Dad was back from Saudi for the long weekend and is a total brai beast, so he had made us boerwurst on the brai, which we chopped up into smaller pieces and put into fresh buns, with some side salads and a bottle or 2 of Mumm to celebrate the almost homeowners! We enjoyed a convivial afternoon of family conversation as a cooling breeze blew gently across the lake in front of their house, picked at left overs for dinner after our late lunch, took an evening stroll and settled in for the night.

Today's steps: 6,150
Temperature: 29 degrees - has the weather turned to winter yet????
 
Saturday 30 Nov 2024 - Dubai family day.

Just pottered around at Almost DIL's parents' house getting to know them a bit better - we had previously met them for the first time on our 2022 Christmas in Dubai, so we don't really know them well. We all agreed that we were mutually delighted with the kids' decision to get married.

Then I did a cooking frenzy of Seat Family Christmas favourites that are hard to get ingredients for in the UAE - I made a massive batch of nuts and bolts with some of the Nurtigrain brought from home (also brought French Onion Soup), and a big batch of my Grandma's Christmas shortbread, which is basically a heart attack on a plate - 250g of butter, 1 cup of sugar and some flour and glace cherries on top. Simple by delicious. Both these items had been pre-requested by Almost DIL's Dad, who genuinely had loved them the first Christmas we spent together. I was actually quite chuffed. Then he and almost DIL did a melktart cook off and a malva pudding cook off. So we all indulged in a highly sugary afternoon tea.

Shortly after lunch Almost DIL's Dad had to head to the airport back to Saudi. Their weekend is Friday and Saturday (as is common in many places in the Middle East - used to be like this in the UAE when Seat Son first moved here, but they changed it to the Western weekend a couple of years ago here) and of course he doesn't get the UAE day long weekend either, so he was a bit low to be leaving while we were all looking forward to three more days together with the kids off work . He took a goodie bag of nuts and bolts and shortbread to console him.
 
Sunday 1 Dec 2024 - Rinse and Repeat

Today's variations:
  • Everyone else played padel for 90 minutes. Padel is enormously popular in the UAE.
  • I wrapped Christmas presents for 2.5 hrs while they were all out of the house - my happy place.
  • we visited an absolutely massive open air plant market, where Seat Son bought various trees for Almost DIL's mother for Christmas. When he lived at home, we could not get him to show even a tiny smidge of interest in gardening. Now she tells me he is her regular helper, very handy for muscle, and has quite a green thumb. I will never understand children as long as I live 🤷‍♀️ 🤷‍♀️ 🤷‍♀️
  • Shawarma lunch from Allo Beirut, followed by a cup of tea and a shortbread
  • planting party to get all the new plants in the ground.
We will return to Abu Dhabi early tomorrow as we are taking a spin in a luxury cruiser share-owned by the husband of one of Seat Son's work colleagues. We had originally planned to go tonight to avoid an early start, buy it has been quite windy for the last couple of days, so there is some doubt that the weather will be suitable and the trip might be cancelled. Seat Son will take one for the team and get up early to see if it's still on. If not we will make a more leisurely departure.

I forgot to put the temperature in yesterday's post - it was 28 degrees. Today, it was only 26 degrees. Seems like winter is coming.
 
Monday 2 Dec 2024 - Lazy Day and Return to Abu Dhabi

Well the wind continued so the boating excursion was cancelled and instead we just had another lazy family day and then drove back to Abu Dhabi where I cooked a very yummy prawn moilee for dinner.

I know it is not a truly local lifestyle, being around expats, but I do really enjoy just seeing and experiencing the daily tasks of living here. It helps me feel a bit more connected to Seat Son when we are separated by distance for most of the year.

Another cooler day. I forgot to note the temperature.
 
This TR is a wonderful read. Great getting so much local detail.
I know from my work as a locum places are very much different when you stay a month or 3 to when you breeze through as a tourist.
Let my education continue.
 
This TR is a wonderful read. Great getting so much local detail.
I know from my work as a locum places are very much different when you stay a month or 3 to when you breeze through as a tourist.
Let my education continue.
Thanks @drron, I totally agree with you.

It’s a bit of a mixed TR with lots of local colour and everyday life in the UAE as well as some genuine tourist things as well. I’m always really happy when we do this trip - this is the third time now - and still find that it costs nothing more or is even cheaper to add on the side trip to Europe, so standby for some more traditional style TR posts when we head off to Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar on 5 Dec.
 
Tuesday 3 Dec 2024 - Abu Dhabi - We Buy A Carpet

The others all went to the beach this morning and I went to the gym again.

After breakfast, we set off to the Abu Dhabi carpet market to see if we could find a bigger carpet. The last visit here in 2022, Seat son surprised us on a day trip to Sharjah by taking us to the Blue Souk and buying us a beautiful carpet. Unfortunately, as we were not expecting this lovely gift, we had to guess the size, and when we got it home, we found it was just too small for our living room - it was 1200 x 1500. So this time, we asked him to take us so we could buy one in a better size 2000 x 2200.

The Abu Dhabi carpet market does not have the vibe of the Blue Souk in Sharjah. It's just a large strip mall, where every shop sells carpets. At random, we picked Shop 11 because the parking spots out the front of it were in the shade 😂.

Expressed interest in buying a carpet and the game was on! What size you want? What colour? See this, very good carpet!

We were coralled by the three guys working in the shop and body pressed inside. They were like sheep dogs rounding up the flock. The leader of this pack clicked his fingers at a young boy and said "chair for Madame Mama now!" and a chair materialised for me. It was placed in the far diagonal corner of the shop, meaning I would have to walk over the ever growing pile of carpets that was being placed on the floor for our inspection. But none of these were even a patch on our old one in terms of quality of materials and workmanship, so I made a move to leave. "Mint tea for Madame Mama now!" Now this is not my first rodeo either so I politely refused the mint tea. Once you start drinking their tea, they see you as obligated and you feel that too. Seat Son gave me a surreptitious thumbs up.

Slowly we got clearer on the style of carpet and the quality as the pile in front of us grew higher and higher.

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Picture 1 - soft drape but not much sheen
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Picture 2 - not much sheen, stiff drape

Finally, out came one that we quite liked.
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See the sheen on the carpet - a mark of better quality materials, and also the soft drape of it. Similar drape to Picture 1 above, and much finer than picture 2 above. But the asking price was a ridiculous AED6500. Seat Son now stepped in as chief negotiator. He managed to find some "faults" with the carpet.

SS: "This carpet is not handmade" he said. (of course it isn't - if it were hand made the cost would be at least three times what they asked - but it is a nicely made machine carpet).
Them: "oh yes sir it is handmade"
SS: "It is not. I can see that the fringing has been stitched to the carpet. If it were hand made, the fringe would be an integral part of the carpet"
Them: "Oh yes sir, you misunderstood me, the fringe itself is handmade."
And so it went for a while.

SS: Last year at Sharjah we only paid AED1000 for a carpet like this. (not quite true - it was 2 years ago, and it was AED 1200, but near enough!)
Them: "but that was a smaller carpet, Madame Mama said."
SS: "yes, so for this one will will pay more - maybe even AED 1500"
Them: sharp intake of breath. "no we will show you some more carpets if this one is too expensive" - he had worked out that I really wanted this one, of course.

So out came a whole lot more carpets, one of which Almost DIL liked, so we got them to put it aside as we will buy it for her as an engagement gift.

Them: "OK if you buy both it will be AED 5500 for yours Madame Mama, and AED 650 for the little one."
Me: "no, no, no, too much."
SS: "we are not tourists to pay these high prices. We live in Abu Dhabi. We know what a carpet costs. We have bought many carpets."
Them: "OK AED5000."
SS: "no, it's too much"
Them: "OK, you make me an offer now, it's your turn."
SS: "OK, AED 1800"

Them: More shock, horror reactions. "Please sir, it is a holiday today. Get some tea for Madame Mama. If you will buy both, make a combined offer."
SS: "OK AED2000 for both."
Them: Much head shaking and they started to pack up the carpets - of course leaving the two in question on display. So at a nod from Seat Son, we gathered up our bags, and I took off my shoes so I could politely walk across the sea of carpets to get to the door and started to make my way to the exit. "No, no, madam mama, please sit, your tea will arrive soon. OK, you can have both carpets for AED4000".
SS: "Nope AED 2500 for both and that is my final offer. Mum, don't drink the tea."
Them: "Sir you must meet me in the middle at AED3000."
SS: "OK everyone, this isn't going to work. Don't worry mum, this was just the first shop. I'm sure I will be able to buy you a carpet somewhere today." So up we got and started to walk out again - I had left my shoes off.
Them: "Please sir, do not go, make me a better offer and your Madame Mama can have the carpet she wants. Maybe AED 2800 is OK?"
SS: " Mum, how much do you want this overpriced carpet?"
Me: "well, it is lovely."
SS: big sigh "well you are very lucky because my mother really wants this one. Last offer AED2700 for the two carpets."
Them: "sir you drive a hard bargain, but the deal is done. Please Madame Mama, drink your tea while we prepare your carpet."

As we left, the main seller said to Seat Son, "I could tell you were not tourists when your mother took off her shoes before walking on my carpets. Then I knew I would have to give you local price for respect."

And here is our carpet, all rolled up and being carried out to our car.

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I am very happy with the purchase - it's a beautiful carpet and I cannot believe the deal we got. I would have paid the AED 4000 and been satisfied! When we got it back to Seat Son's house, we fitted it into one of the bags we had brought over with Seat Son's goodies. It weighed in at 17kg, so it will make it home with us and not have to be shipped.

Exhausted by the emotions of the deal, we headed over to Mina centre and had a snack lunch from one of the street food stalls and an expat coffee. The coffees were three times the price of the food!
 
Pretty sure I could arrange it for you @RooFlyer if you had the need.

Not me, I just saw a franchise opportunity. Visited many carpet shops, purchases = nil. In Iran, where western credit cards cannot be used, they have their agent in the UAE on speed dial to take your card. :)

I was mainly into buying gold. Bought a few pieces in Saudi Arabia and the haggling is quite tight. Very nice jewellery is sold as a certain mark-up on the daily gold price (which is posted). There wasn't much in it between places.
 
Tuesday 3 Dec 2024 - A Little Bit of Patriotism for UAE National Day - Abu Dhabi

Next up, we took a short drive to the Abu Dhabi Corniche, where we visited the Emirates Palace Hotel just on sunset. The Corniche looked spectacular in the late afternoon sun.

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The Emirates Palace Hotel was opened in 2005 as a symbol of Arabian luxury.

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Patriotic decoration on the outside of the hotel

Lavish, rich, opulent, sumptuous, rich, spectacular, decadent, amazing - these adjectives are just not enough to describe the experience of this hotel. Firstly, it is huge, built on such a grand scale. Then it has decoration of floral arrangements, marble, tile, mosaic, gilding, lights and beautiful objets d'art to create a most spectacular atmosphere.

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So much glitz, literally everywhere you looked - it was totally OTT

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Floral arrangements in UAE flag colours in the hotel foyer

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Swarovski crystal lights

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The view out to the pool deck and beach resort - not accessible to gawkers


I cannot imagine what it costs to stay here, given that breakfast is a very reasonable $150 per person! (actually, I googled it later that day and found a "deal" for $1410 per night in the cheapest room, breakfast and parking not included.

We spent quite a while there, just taking in the vibe, and enjoying the coolness of the fountains as the dusk fell and we sat on the outside terrace with a beverage

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And then, we drove home to Seat Son's place through a mass of beautiful patriotic lights. Given it's December and the dominant colours of the UAE flag being red, green and white (plus black), I had to keep reminding myself that these were not Christmas lights!

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Today's steps: 10,641
Temperature: 26 degrees.
 
Wednesday 4 Dec 2034 - Abu Dhabi - We Prepare for Departure

Almost DIL left early this morning to go to work in Dubai today and tomorrow. She will return to Abu Dhabi on Thursday night.

I slept in - nice! And Seat Son drove himself to work today, so we were confined to barracks. Just as well really because we had some major organising of luggage to do. We will head to Europe (Spain and Portugal) tomorrow, and so we had to locate all our winter woollies, which so far have been totally superfluous on this trip. We are not planning on taking all 90+kgs of luggage with us for this leg, and quite a few things have already left our charge - the food and alcohol we brought over for Seat Son, the Christmas presents for everyone here etc. But, we will not be back in Abu Dhabi again on this visit. When we return from Europe, we will be staying in Dubai for a week or so around Christmas, and then heading off to Sri Lanka for another side trip. So we had to think carefully about what needed to stay in Abu Dhabi, what would be needed for Europe, and what needed to be shuttled up to Dubai for us (eg the new carpet and our tropical/summer clothes) and label everything so that Seat Son can arrange it all for us. What with the sorting and doing some washing, a good chunk of the day was spent dealing with luggage.

Then we walked over to waitrose and bought some dinner supplies and had a couple of expensive expat coffees (about $12 ea) while we talked a about a renovation project we are going to undertake on a very old house in Jindabyne, that will see it come out as a passive house.

Finally, we sorted our shuttle to DXB for tomorrow's flights. It seems really weird to me, but there are no typical airport shuttle buses to DXB. Uber and taxi estimates were both in the range of AED 380-410. Seat Son saved the day by looking up his Abu Dhabi Inc employee perk/discount limo service, which came in with a quote of AED 350. Winner.

I know we are only going to be away for a couple of weeks, but I felt a bit melancholy at the thought of leaving. I've been really enjoying the insight into Seat Son's every day, and it has been great to get to know Almost DIL and her family a bit more too. Ah, well, I'm sure I will forget all about it when I get to the Emirates First Lounge tomorrow!
 
Thursday 5 Dec 2024 - Abu Dhabi - DXB - Madrid part 1 - EK First Lounge

Our chauffeured limo arrived punctually at 0930 to take us to DXB. A gleaming, brand new black Lexus. What a lovely way to start the trip. he cruised along at about 140 km/hr most of the way.

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Took just on 80 minutes door to door, safely delivered to the Emirates First check in - a status perk from my WP as we are not flying F. whisked through check in, security and immigration. Caught the train to Concourse A and then relaxed and enjoyed a bit over 2 hrs of First Class dining and luxury in the emirates First lounge. I think this is my favourite airline lounge.

Started with a cold glass of Moet to accompany my entree of Arabic mezze - a delicious selection of local treats - moutabel (babganoush) with a wonderful, delicious smoky flavour; hummus; tabouleh; kofta; kibbe and vine leaves, and warmed flat breads.

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Emirates certainly know how to do Arabic mezze

After that, I scarcely had room for my main, which was a dukkah crusted fillet of salmon with labneh, lemon and side salad, and a lemon mint juice (forgot to take a photo. Mr Seat 0A had the mezze platter and a wagyu beef fillet with chips and salad and pronounced it excellent. Neither of us had room for dessert, but we did enjoy not paying $12 for a coffee.

We headed off to a quiet part of the lounge where we were the only people in sight. This is a new experience for me, as this lounge is usually jumping when we arrive at the more usual departure time of 2300-0200. There we enjoyed a second coffee served with the traditional sides of dates (plain, chocolate dipped, filled with pistachio, filled with almond - drool worthy) and the most delicious crunchy baklava I've ever eaten. It was so good. Made a quick video call to my mum (90) and FIL (94), having confirmed that there was literally no one else in the lounge area we were using.

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The lounge was all but empty - a new experience

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And beautifully decorated for Christmas

Then, before we knew it, it was time to board EK143 our QF code share B777 to Madrid for an 8 hour day flight. As I mentioned earlier, the SYD-BKK leg was the first long haul day flight we have done, maybe ever, but if not, for a very long time. So this is now the second one. Interesting to see what an 8 hr flight feels like. I think it will be pretty short by our usual standards.
 
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Thursday 5 Dec 2024 - DXB - Madrid part 3 - On Board EK143 and Arrival in MAD

The B777 is not my favourite aircraft, but travelling as a couple makes the 2-3-2 seating bearable, as long as you are not in the 3 seat part! Fortunately, we had nice seats and we settled in for our flight. I always find the decor on Emirates aircraft a little on the tacky side -so much woodgrain, and this was no exception. Plenty of room, especially for a shortish day flight.

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Based on our time in the lounge, we did not expect to eat much, but in the end, neither of us could pass up the lovely fruit platter and a generous cheese plate - the dessert we could not fit in whilst at the lounge :) and a delightful iced tea drink.
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The flight was very straightforward and I passed the time by finishing the TV series Joan (about a jewel thief) that I had started on the BKK-DXB leg. Then I watched 4 out of 7 episodes of The Sympathizer, a story about the Vietnamese perspective on the American War, as they call it. It was very quirky, and good, so I really hope I get to finish the series on the way back to DXB in a couple of weeks.

Landed at Madrid on time, just before 2000 local, and started the adventure of making our way from Terminal 4S (satellite) to Terminal 4, collecting our bags, doing entry formalities (which were decidedly informal), and then sorting ourselves to catch the train to our hotel, the Pullman Madrid Feria and Aeropuerte. Armed with the useful information we had gleaned from YouTube videos by Tony Alvarez (Road trips Spain and Portugal), we handled the purchase of the 10 viajes multi tarjeta, 2 airport supplements and the card fee like pros, and were quickly aboard the metro from Terminal 4 to Feria station and then a very short walk (about 100m) to our hotel. Simple check in, and in our room before too long at about 2145 (0045 body time). Whacked and ready to got to sleep after a long day and another 3 hr time zone change.

Steps: 5,796
Temp on arrival: 11 degrees

Accor Platinum benefit was free parking (usually EUR23), which wasn't any use tonight as we don;t get our car until tomorrow, and some bottled water in the room. No room upgrade as the hotel was fully booked - many work Christmas parties which were in full drunken swing as we arrived 😂. Room cost was EUR133, no breakfast.

edit: typos
 
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