More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor hotels

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

G'day JohnM

Its pretty clean all round; thinking back I can't remember coming across anything grungy or littered. No graffiti that I can think of. There are beggars now and then but less than you would find in Nth America and not 'pushy' like I found in Italy.

The police are evident, but really, probably not over-the-top; and in tourist areas they definitely make you feel a bit more secure.

Mind you, within the Kremlin, there are places you can and cannot go (usually clearly signed). Wayward tourists are met with blown whistles and pointing, and in my case, when I started walking down a road which was off limits, the guard who I just passed gave a pip on his whistle to get my attention, and then a very stern 'Nyet'.

On our last visit, a year ago, we were in St Petersburg a week before the G20 there. Then, there were paramilitary types and their vehicles on a number of corners; looked interesting but not threatening.

When we moved onto Moscow, we went out for dinner a block or so from Red Square, then decided to walk across the Square to see it lit up. We went round a corner and were surprised to see possibly hundreds of paramilitary / police types swarming out of the metro and lining in front of the Duma (one of the Parliament buildings). But even these guys weren't hostile - they were happy to reply to questions, in the limited English available to them

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

The next morning I went to the Novodevichy Cemetery and the adjacent Monastery. Visit a cemetery? Sure – Russian cemeteries are really interesting places and this one has some rather famous people in it. Novodevichy is the place where Soviet luminaries (political, artistic, scientific), who weren’t in the top-most rank are buried (the top guys are buried along the Kremlin wall in Red Square). Like other prominent cemeteries I visited last time, this one is beautifully kept and a piece of art in itself.

To get there, I went on the Metro, naturally, and had two changes. It was quite a long trip distance wise, but took me all of 15 minutes including the changes. Going up one of the (very) long escalators, I noticed my hand, resting on the rail, was going away from the rest of me. This makes sense if you think about it – the handrail is on a longer loop, so has to go faster than the stairs part. I’d just never been on an escalator this long for the phenomenon to be apparent

At the cemetery, you can buy a map (in English) which shows where a couple of hundred of the heavy hitters lie. But we start in the post-Soviet era – President Boris Yeltsin (1931-2007) (it’s a Russian flag in tile mosaic, if you are wondering) and Raisa Gorbacheva (1932-1999).

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Here’s a bunch of Top Men :-| . On the left, you’ll see why Soviet/Russian Cemeteries are somewhat special – not just boring old tombstones, but a gallery of statues in stone or bronze. The guy in the middle was obviously a missile type of guy! And the guy on the right, obviously a senior army gent in WW2 has a nice little tank to keep him company.

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On a lighter note, I never did work out who the one on the left was (maybe circus artist Igor Kio), but a truly remarkable memorial to whoever it was. On the right, Vladimir Durov was definitely a circus performer. Again the best circus performers are highly ranked in Russia – remember the Great Moscow Circus?

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On the left Andre Gromyko (1909-1989), Foreign Minister of the Soviet union from 1957-1985, a remarkable longevity in the Supreme Soviet. On the right is Vyacheslav Molotov (1890-1986), Gromyko’s predecessor as Foreign Minister and protégé of Stalin. Yes, the Molotov coughtail is named in his ‘honour’. The expression was coined by the Finns for reasons a bit involved to go into here, but read about it in Wikipedia. Molotov coughtail - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia . Nikita Khrushchev is here somewhere, but I didn’t find him.

Most of the well-known names had flowers at the graves, mostly real.

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On the left, the grave of pianist and composer Dmitry Shostakovich (1906-1975) and this was one of the prime motivations for me to visit. He had a turbulent relationship with the Communist party and the government. On the right, a ceremony that was occurring in the cemetery whilst I was there.

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[kpc]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Novodevichy Cemetery looks interesting but might give this one a miss...looking at tickets for the Bolshoi but Swan Lake is practically sold out and they are asking for an "arm and leg" for the scattered remaining tickets!

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Yes, the Bolshoi certainly is a 'premium experience' When I was there the performance was by some visiting troupe and not a 'headline ballet', but the prices were still such that you had to think twice.

The Novodevichy Convent is immediately adjacent to the cemetery. I mentioned somewhere that signage around Moscow appears to be improving for Anglos. Case in point is the sign on the left, outside the metro nearest the Convent (direction, street address and telephone number!!). There are many of these appearing, and I don’t remember them even last year. Also, signs like that on the right, at the exits to at least some Metros – good maps of the local area and pointers to the main sites of interest.

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The Novodevichy Convent was declared a World Heritage site in 2004 and has remained almost unchanged for hundreds of years. It was founded in 1524, about the time of Ivan the Terrible. Wikipedia tells me that ‘In 1812, Napoleon's army made an attempt to blow up the convent, but the nuns managed to save the cloister from destruction. In Tolstoy's War and Peace, Pierre was to be executed under the convent walls. In another novel of his, Anna Karenina, Konstantin Lyovin (the main character) meets his future wife Kitty ice-skating near monastery walls.’

It became a museum after the Bolshevik revolution, then other uses. Nuns returned here not long ago.

The Convent is behind some pretty solid walls, with great defensive towers and a grand entrance gate, with its own church (17th Century). The Smolensk Cathedral on the right is the main structure within the convent and dates from the mid 1500s.

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Inside the cathedral is the ‘usual’ amazing collection of grandeur and art I’ve learned to find in these places. Soaring pillars and walls, richly frescoed, said to be the best in Moscow. The Iconostasis was constructed in the late 1600s with icons dating from the previous century.

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Some details. On the right are frescos on the ceiling.

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Lastly on the left, some more of the defences of the Convent. The Bell tower dates from the late 1600s.

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[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Ok, continuing on the theme of death and burial and this one I think I can interest you in kcp – Lenin’s Tomb and the Kremlin Wall Necropolis.

Along the wall of the Kremlin on Red Square is Lenin’s Tomb. During the Communist era, a Red Square Parade viewing stand was present on the roof of the structure. the green tower in the pic is on the Kremlin wall, not the tomb.

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Burials along the wall of the Kremlin at Red Square started with some mass burials of Bolsheviks immediately after the October 1917 Revolution. Between then and 1927 various worthies were also buried in the same location.

Vladimir Lenin died in 1924 and wanted to be buried next to his mother in St Petersburg. However Stalin ordered that the body be preserved and placed in a Mausoleum and the present granite structure was built in 1930.

The tomb and viewing of Lenin’s preserved body is available for just a couple of hours a day, four days a week (its free). The queue forms at the side of the red brick State History Museum at the end of Red Square. When I turned up, about 12:30pm the queue was only about 20 people long and they let us through soon after that. You go through airport type security (don’t take large bags!) and you are led as a group along the Kremlin wall behind some memorials and small trees.

So in the pics below, the queue forms at the gap between the buildings at the left and you walk along as a group till you get to the entrance (RH pic)

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There are guards on the inside and you file in. Some guide books tell of body searches and very stern security, but not in my experience. DEFINITELY no cameras inside, or any closer than the pic on the left below.

Inside it is very dark, and quiet. You immediately descend down a staircase in black granite (no contrasts!) and holding the handrail is recommended. A number of guards about, but not obtrusive. Round a corner at the bottom – and there he is, in all his waxy-looking glory in crimson velvet surrounds and you file past, then up stairs again to outside. Over in a matter of minutes.

Outside, you continue along the wall and come across the burial place of the top echelons of the Communist Party. On the right in the pic below is one who many AFFers may remember – Leonid Brezhnev, General Secretary of the Communist Party from 1964 to his death in 1982.

The last person buried here, in 1985, was Konstantin Chernenko, General Secretary from 1984-1985. He was succeeded by Mikhail Gorbachev.

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Here is the row of Communist leaders – starting with Stalin and ending with Andropov then Chernenko. All the graves had fresh carnations laid on them.

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A number of luminaries (remember all these people are the top worthies – lesser ranks are in the Novodevichy Cemetery - above) were cremated and placed in niches in the Kremlin wall itself. On the other side, I’m not sure – possibly newer memorials to some of the older mass graves. That's the high capitalism GUM store complex overlooking Vlad, Joe and the rest.

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[Major]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

When I visited in 1970 the queue for Lenin's Tomb was always a couple of kilometers long. At exactly 10.00 AM they allowed anyone with a foreign passport to jump the queue and go straight in.
No loitering, you had to keep moving. In and out in 10 min

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Less 'social obligation' to visit these days

Moscow is magic at night. The combination of open spaces and spectacular, colourful architecture is a powerful combination. I had no hesitation in walking around the tourist precincts of Moscow at night (ie few security worries).

Here is the GUM store complex, and St Basil’s.

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State History Museum and one of the Kremlin towers.

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A bank and the State History Museum again.

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Kremlin wall and the Great Kremlin Palace

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And, to heck with it, St Basil’s again.

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[drron]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

I am absolutely loving this TR.The photos are magic especially these last night time pics.
I love the way that you bring in not just the well known tourist must dos but have sought out other less well known sights which are just as interesting.
Well done.Making a big call here but to me this is the best TR on AFF.

 

[kpc]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

I am absolutely loving this TR.The photos are magic especially these last night time pics.
I love the way that you bring in not just the well known tourist must dos but have sought out other less well known sights which are just as interesting.
Well done.Making a big call here but to me this is the best TR on AFF.

The night shots of Moscow are fantastic!! I'm getting really excited about our impending 13 night St Petersburg / Moscow trip, starting in 3 weeks' time...RooFlyer's TR is contributing significantly to that! I bought tickets last night to see the opera at the Bolshoi when we are in Moscow (and I don't even like opera!!)...my +1 and mother are over the moon though:shock:

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Very kind of you both I have excellent material to work with.

Almost done (whew).

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Final morning in Moscow. Visit the State History Museum, the red brick building at the end of Red Square which I had passed a dozen or so times. Its thankfully a fairly conventional museum, with exhibits beginning with Russian pre-history and extending through to the present day, arranged in chronological order. Unfortunately many of the exhibits have only Russian explanations, but a significant number (and I suspect an increasing number) are in English too.

Just a smattering here.

At left, carving to a sun deity, southern Siberia, 2nd millennium BC. On the right, a ‘hoard’ from a foundry, with numerous objects in bronze; 2nd millennium BC.

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A range of gold inlaid swords; part of the collection of Tsar’s personal effects;

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This is a globe made in 1650; unfortunately I can only read the date in the Russian explanation. I’m in eastern Tasmania, so great to see the area ‘on the map’, reflecting the voyages of Abel Tasman 1642 & 44).

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And of course there is treasure. What Russian museum would be complete without it? In this museum it’s the gold, silver and precious gems objects from the Russian Orthodox Church in Moscow & other areas, plus other objects from the 3rd century onwards. On the left, a 1709 wooden cup, made by Tsar Peter the Great and later ornamented in gold, diamonds and a thumping big ruby in the middle. On the right, the mitre of the Metropolitan of the Russian Orthodox Church from 1695.

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Finally, this was presented fairly early on in the museum tour. I have no idea what it means, but to me it almost (but not quite) sums up much of my Russian experience. Unexpected, artistic, wonderful and interesting (it lacks beauty and a stonking amount of gold and diamonds to be truly representative)

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Next, off on the train to the airport, and off back home.

 

[sergeyvzn]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Excellent report! Wonderful pictures; also, being Russian I appreciate taking time and doing some research on Russian history and getting your facts (almost completely - there are a few small errors) rights
I'm glad you liked your time in St.Petersburg and Moscow. Also, Transylvania looks really interesting, I have been to Romania once but your report makes me wish to visit it again
Well done!

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Thanks sergevzn ... I was wondering what guys such as yourself might be making of it If you want to correct some of my blues, you are most welcome to - else I'll just be telling the same stuff to my friends

In the afternoon, take a taxi to Paveletsky vokzal station, where the Aeroexpress train to Domodedovo airport leaves from. The train station is both large and a bit poky & crowded – much like such stations in Australia. I eventually figure out that you can only buy Aeroexpress tickets from the machines, and not from any of the ticket booths in the immediate vicinity. Trains leave every half hour and I’ve just missed one. Phooey. It’s hot and humid and the station is pretty warm.

Eventually the boarding call is made, people go to surge through the gate onto the platform, but it’s not opened for a further 5 minutes. Sweat soaked by this time. I’m again in the business carriage, but there is absolutely no signage as to which is the business cabin. Try asking a couple of people, but shrugs only. I take a gamble that it will be the far carriage – first into the airport, and after more sweat, I’m proved correct. Perfunctory ticket check, no assistance with bags, find assigned seat (economy tickets have no pre assigned seats). Water and Russian newspapers for the having; 2 x s assigned seating

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Journey to Domodedovo airport takes 45 mins and it’s not exactly express; a slow trundle for the final 15 minutes, where there is lots of construction going on along the track. The airport is large, crowded, but not too bad to navigate. I’m back on Lufthansa Euro-business, so check in quickly in the Star Gold aisle and through in minutes. At exit immigration and security I’m ushered into the ‘business’ queue, labelled APEC ONLY and through in minutes. Now to find the Lufthansa lounge. Interestingly there are separate Swiss, Austrian and Lufthansa lounges (they all have common ownership of course). Pretty easy to navigate through the airport.

First things first – check the booze situation. Beers and softies in the self serve fridge, plus modest eats – sandwiches, soup, salad and the like.

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The lounge is light and airy, a separate first seating area, but it has no separate amenities, so it’s a bit pointless. Great views onto the tarmac, and I posted about some of the uncommon (for me) airlines that were going back and forth here.

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There is a counter, and there you ask for booze. Red wine, white wine is understood (choice of 1 Italian variety of each) , but after that they struggle. I asked for a gin and tonic, and the lady pointed to the self serve fridge and the cans of tonic water. Um, no. She eventually found a bottle of gin, which had a dribble left. Getting another one from the area behind took a while. Later, finding a wine glass also proved challenging. My overall assessment of this lounge - coughpy.

Boarding was a fair way away, so I left for the gate, where I discovered a delay (hate that), so retreated back to the lounge and another couple of G&Ts. Ok, boarded, and its Euro-business and the usual tight seat leg room and empty middle seat. Dinner was some cold cuts to start then this stodge. Knowing I was going to be in the Senator Lounge in FRA soon, I left most of it.

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Uneventful flight, but approaching FRA I got in one last museum – the Gutenburg museum of print at Mainz, on the Rhine (its to the left of the boat moored to the bottom of the pic ) and then we turned into FRA itself. BTW Mainz and the museum is a good excursion by train if you have a >1/2 day or so transit at FRA.

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[kpc]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

In the afternoon, take a taxi to Paveletsky vokzal station, where the Aeroexpress train to Domodedovo airport leaves from. The train station is both large and a bit poky & crowded – much like such stations in Australia. I eventually figure out that you can only buy Aeroexpress tickets from the machines, and not from any of the ticket booths in the immediate vicinity. Trains leave every half hour and I’ve just missed one. Phooey. It’s hot and humid and the station is pretty warm.

Eventually the boarding call is made, people go to surge through the gate onto the platform, but it’s not opened for a further 5 minutes. Sweat soaked by this time. I’m again in the business carriage, but there is absolutely no signage as to which is the business cabin. Try asking a couple of people, but shrugs only. I take a gamble that it will be the far carriage – first into the airport, and after more sweat, I’m proved correct. Perfunctory ticket check, no assistance with bags, find assigned seat (economy tickets have no pre assigned seats). Water and Russian newspapers for the having; 2 x s assigned seating

View attachment 34418


Journey to Domodedovo airport takes 45 mins and it’s not exactly express; a slow trundle for the final 15 minutes, where there is lots of construction going on along the track.

hmmm....there are 3 of us so might take a taxi to Dme (from Hilton Moscow) when we leave!

 

[sergeyvzn]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

hmmm....there are 3 of us so might take a taxi to Dme (from Hilton Moscow) when we leave!

And this will be your fatal mistake as 1) traffic in Moscow is awful, it's one HUGE traffic jam 2) there's construction work on the road from the ring road to DME that slows it even more
to get to any of the Moscow airports you must take a train or you will be very sorry

 

[kpc]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

And this will be your fatal mistake as 1) traffic in Moscow is awful, it's one HUGE traffic jam 2) there's construction work on the road from the ring road to DME that slows it even more
to get to any of the Moscow airports you must take a train or you will be very sorry

Even if I allow 2 hours?

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

For info: business class train ticket to DME was 900 roubles or abt 27 dollars. I'd go economy next time & wouldn't think of taxiing it.

FWIW, Google maps reports Hilton to DME 1h30m to 1h45m.

 

[sergeyvzn]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Even if I allow 2 hours?

It's unpredictable. Your journey from central Moscow to Domodedovo may be anything between one hour and five hours (if you're particularly unlucky). Train is the way to go if you want to catch your plane...just watch this video to get the idea

ПРОБКИ Ð’ МОСКВЕ. СÐДОВОЕ КОЛЬЦО. www.video-kino.ru - YouTube

St.Petersburg is different, there is no train and the Pulkovo airport is very close to town, you should catch a taxi as bus 39 isn't really that convenient if you have luggage

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

At FRA, its to the Senator lounge near gate Z50, but I can't find my pics. I love this lounge, as I think I've said before. It is very large, lots of separate areas where you can get away from others if you like, good drinks and food selections (but no a la carte dining) and nice views to the busy apron.

Then onto LH A380 for the trip to SIN. Again, as I've said before, I'm not a fan of the LH A380 J product. Sloping beds and absolutely no where to put stuff around you. Meals are OK and I have an interesting Bavarian doctor next to me, on his way to SIN to sell his stem cell research lab. Trip would rate an 'average'.

into SIN on time, Krisflyer Lounge, then SQ to MEL. Of course, vastly superior J product 1-2-1, great service and amenity. I had 'booked the cook'. Seared tuna to start with, then lobster thermidor. I an tell you, it tasted better than it looked, which was quite un-appealing to be honest.

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A nice little desert, short overnight trip, then breakfast of fruits.

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So that's it! Thanks to those that stuck with it .. I enjoy recounting trips while they are fresh in my mind .. helps remember details that I'd otherwise forget later on.

Highlights were St Petersburg (again) Moscow (again) & Romania (every bit of them all ); Pannonhalmi Abbey, Western Hungary; SQ J flights; Hotel Bella Muzica in Brasov and Novotel Krakow Centrum; The Seafood Bar in Amsterdam & Salt Bar and Grill in Singapore; and trips to the Vatican.

Lowlights were London (I'm over it, sorry) and Mercure Paddington; Naples and my Pompeii and Vesuvius tours; Austrian Air Dash 8 flights (although not terrible).

Sitting in the QF Flounge at MEL at the moment, my A380 to LAX parked out front. Stock standard biz trip to Canada coming up.

 

[Major]

Re: More Central and Eastern European bling (incl Transylvania); *A flights, Accor ho

Great TR...one of the best, thanks for sharing.

It bought back some memories from several decades ago