Midnight at the Oasis - but do the Camels know the words?.....

That night we all booked into the hotel’s Asian fusion restaurant. The others decided on the degustation menu.

We didn’t. We’ve finally accepted that degustation isn’t for us. By about course four we’re wondering if it’s ever going to end. We’d much rather order exactly what we feel like eating, so we went à la carte. It turned out to be the perfect arrangement.

We enjoyed our two courses at a sensible pace while the degustation kept arriving at the other end of the table. Every few minutes another beautifully presented plate would appear and we’d all lean over to see what masterpiece the chef had come up with next. It became almost as entertaining as the conversation.

The food was outstanding. That was probably the biggest surprise. The menu was enormous, which often means a restaurant tries to do too much and doesn’t do any of it particularly well. Not this place.

Everything that came to the table looked and tasted excellent. It was one of those meals that everyone was still talking about the next day. Did they finish the menu? Nope. A lot went back to the kidlets rooms for later consumption.
 
Our last day in Malta was deliberately quiet. There was packing to do, a bit of lounging around the pool, plenty of chatting and one last chance just to enjoy being together before everyone headed in different directions.

Dinner followed the now well-established routine. Drinks, plenty of conversation and another relaxed meal. Of course there was a touch of sadness knowing it was nearly over. But it wasn’t quite the same as previous goodbyes.

This time we already knew we’d all be together again in a few months on our Cunard cruise. Having the next trip already booked made the farewells much easier.

One thing that struck me over the week was how well we all got on. Not just with our son, but with his in-laws as well. We came from opposite sides of the world, yet somehow it all just worked. Lots of laughs, plenty of good-natured banter especially about the English Cricket Team, and absolutely no awkwardness.

I don’t know if that’s unusual, but I do know how lucky we are.

As holidays go, Malta delivered far more than we’d expected. It wasn’t just a beautiful place to visit. It gave us something much more valuable… time together.
 
The next morning it was time to head our separate ways. Her parents had an early flight, so we didn’t get to say goodbye again. We’d already done that the night before.

Our plan was to meet the kids in the airport lounge after check-in before our flights went in different directions. We were flying Lufthansa via Frankfurt to Lisbon, while they were on British Airways. We sailed through check-in, but they struck a problem. Their flight had been delayed, so their boarding passes wouldn’t allow lounge access until two hours before departure. Not to be beaten, they explained that the husband simply had to say goodbye to his ageing parents before we all disappeared to different countries.

Bless the lounge staff. They let them in.

We had one last drink together, one last chat, a few hugs, and then this time we really did go our separate ways.

Our first flight to Frankfurt was on another Neo. This one was much newer than the previous aircraft and felt far more spacious. The food was perfectly acceptable without being memorable. Frankfurt involved a fairly long wait, although the lounge almost made up for it. I wasn’t expecting Germany to produce one of the best butter chickens I’d had for a while, but there it was.

The final flight to Lisbon was on a much older Neo and the difference was obvious. No charging points, tired cabin… definitely showing its age.

By the time we landed it was well after midnight. Then came the final little travel quirk. Business class passengers somehow seemed to be the last people to receive their luggage. We all stood around watching bag after bag appear before ours eventually rolled onto the carousel. By then all you can do is shrug.

Eventually we made it to our hotel. What a contrast.

The moment we walked through the gates we knew we’d chosen well. The old convent had been beautifully converted into a hotel, with gorgeous gardens and a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. We were greeted with a glass of champagne at reception, which felt like exactly the right way to end a very long day. The room itself was tiny. The wardrobe was even tinier. But everything had been done beautifully.

Time for sleep. Tomorrow, Lisbon.
 
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If you’re thinking of visiting Lisbon during the World Cup, do it. The city has absolutely embraced it.

Every evening, from about 7 pm onwards, huge television screens appear in the squares and outdoor restaurants. Thousands of people gather with a glass of Portuguese wine, something good to eat and settle in for the football. It’s impossible not to get caught up in it, even if you’re only a casual fan.

Last night Brasil scored their second goal and the whole street erupted. Chairs scraped back, people were hugging complete strangers, car horns started sounding and for a minute or two it felt more like a carnival than a football match.

Australia plays Egypt on Friday night at 7 pm while we’re here. That’s our evening sorted.

During the day we did something completely different and booked a tuk tuk tour of Lisbon’s famous seven hills.

At €180 it wasn’t cheap for just the two of us, although the tuk tuk would have taken up to five passengers, so it becomes much better value if you’re travelling as a group.

It turned out to be one of the best things we’ve done.

Our driver spent a couple of hours weaving through tiny laneways, stopping at viewpoints we’d never have found ourselves and explaining the history of the different neighbourhoods. It gave us a terrific orientation of the city and helped us work out where we wanted to come back to later on foot.

Sometimes it’s worth paying a little extra on the first day. It saves a lot of wandering around wondering where everything is.
 
One thing you can’t miss in Lisbon is the tuk tuks. They’re everywhere.

Some are brightly painted, some are decorated within an inch of their lives, while others have been built from beautifully restored vintage bodies. Ours turned out to be electric, with the driver proudly explaining it had been converted using parts from an old Tesla.

Apparently they can cost well over €35,000 by the time they’re finished. They certainly aren’t the cheap little holiday toys I’d imagined.
Comfort, however, is another matter. Lisbon’s streets are a mixture of steep hills, tram tracks and old cobblestones. Put all three together and the ride becomes… entertaining.
Bumpy.
Jolty. One pot hole both of us groaned out loud.
Occasionally involving your head getting much closer to the roof than you intended.
But for getting around the seven hills of Lisbon, they’re brilliant. I don’t think we’d have seen half as much on foot.

I had to wait for an insta to get her pouty look up look down touch hug photo before being able to get the vintage photo. I laugh at them now.

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By afternoon the locals were all talking about the heat.

We didn’t really think it was that bad. Warm, yes, but there always seemed to be a breeze. After Paris, Lisbon felt positively manageable.

The hotel itself has a beautiful central atrium, which became our favourite spot for pre-dinner drinks. Weirdly, they had a gas fire going both nights.
In summer.
In Portugal. Nobody seemed to question it, so neither did we.

It was a gorgeous place to sit before heading out for dinner. A glass of wine, the old convent walls around us, a soft breeze coming through and a fire burning away as if we were in the middle of winter.

Odd, but lovely.

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Monday we decided to track back to some of the places seen on the Tuk Tuk. Lots of walking. Lots of stairs. We didn't find google maps that good strangely. Japan was much better.

The funicular stop that has been decommissioned following that dreadful tragedy
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This church lost its roofing during the great earthquake and has never been replaced. That earthquake pretty much destroyed Lisbon. Then they had tsunamis. Then a great fire from all the candles.

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Gorgeous restaurant through a florist shop.
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Of course.
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You can’t come to Lisbon without noticing the sardines.

Not the real ones at first.

The souvenir ones. They’re everywhere. Hanging in shop windows, painted on tea towels, magnets, aprons, mugs, Christmas decorations… if someone can stick a sardine on it, they have. At first I couldn’t work out why a city would become obsessed with a little fish. Then you realise sardines are almost a national symbol. Every summer they’re grilled over charcoal during the June festivals, especially around the Feast of Saint Anthony, and the smell drifts through whole neighbourhoods. Locals love them. I remember them fondly too. But they are huge here.
A fish with its head still on isn’t usually the first thing I order.

But after seeing sardines absolutely everywhere, I was beginning to understand. They’re not really about the fish. They’re about summer, family, friends, a glass of wine and standing around a barbecue chatting while dinner cooks.

It’s funny how every country has something that makes you think, “Why is that such a big deal?”

In Portugal…

It’s a sardine. 🐟

This shop sells only sardines.

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The weather is definitely changing. The locals keep telling us the real heat is due to arrive later in the week. Up until now it’s been warm with a breeze, but yesterday felt noticeably more humid. A bit stickier.

By evening, though, it was glorious again.

We found a terrific little tapas restaurant and settled in for another long dinner. One thing Lisbon certainly isn’t short of is places to eat. Every street seems to have another restaurant, another wine bar or another tiny café, and they all look inviting.

It’s one of those cities where deciding where to have dinner is probably the hardest decision of the day.

How good does this look!

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The weather is definitely changing. The locals keep telling us the real heat is due to arrive later in the week. Up until now it’s been warm with a breeze, but yesterday felt noticeably more humid. A bit stickier.

By evening, though, it was glorious again.

We found a terrific little tapas restaurant and settled in for another long dinner. One thing Lisbon certainly isn’t short of is places to eat. Every street seems to have another restaurant, another wine bar or another tiny café, and they all look inviting.

It’s one of those cities where deciding where to have dinner is probably the hardest decision of the day.

How good does this look!

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Very glad I am reading this when dinner is only an hour away!! Looks amazing.
 
Tuesday morning we headed off early to the monastery and the famous flea market. It starts near the monastery, then seems to tumble all the way down the hill through the streets. You can spend hours there without realising how far you’ve walked.
Then came the drama.

I stopped to check Google Maps.

No iPhone.

That horrible feeling hit instantly. I retraced my steps to the last stall where I’d bought a little trinket. Nothing.

Then I remembered buying a beautiful tapestry bag further up the hill. I had a vague recollection of putting my phone down while I was paying.

Back up the hill I went, trying not to think about how many people had walked past since then.

I explained what had happened to the stallholder. Without saying a word, he reached into his van and pulled out my phone.
I could have hugged him. Instead I handed him a decent handful of euros, said “Obrigado” as best I could, and added the universal sign of putting my hands together to say thank you.
He smiled.
We walked away feeling incredibly lucky.

Sometimes your faith in people gets a wonderful little reminder.

The flea market goes forever.

It starts here and winds all the way down the hill to a car park. Some absolute rubbish but the cottage jewellery market is stunning and cheap. I bought SIL a tile cork pot holder which has - sardines on it. She may not get it. And a thimble. Which has a tram and - a sardine.

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After the phone drama I wanted a stiff drink but MrP pointed out it was only 10 am. Sigh. So he took me off to the nearby Pantheon after a short period of getting lost. He refused to let me ask the two police next to me. 😂 It was a good call finally getting there. It was cool, quiet amd very few people. The cost for over 65 was half price. We didn't have ID but sadly the lady behind the counter didn't hesitate for a second in giving us seniors tickets. Sigh.

It was beautiful.
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We could see people walking right up high. Almost to the rotunda. MrP said we need to go up there. I said sure, where is the lift. Outcome. There was no lift. 17 flights of stairs, not that I was counting. 😉

But the view was worth it. Well.
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More of the market from up high.

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We went inside to peer down into the church. I'm pretty good with heights but I was pinned to the wall just behind me.

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And taking this photo was vertigo inducing.

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A funny little moment from dinner the other night.

One of the waiters seemed incredibly serious. Very professional, very businesslike, although if you chatted to him you could usually coax out a smile.

The World Cup was playing on the huge screen nearby and every now and then he’d steal a quick glance while carrying plates around the restaurant.

Then he suddenly stopped, pointed at the screen and said to the other waiter, “Look, Japan has a Black goalkeeper!”

He was genuinely delighted.

The fact that the goalkeeper then made a great save was almost secondary. What had caught his attention was seeing someone he clearly felt some connection with, playing for Japan, on a huge screen in the middle of Lisbon.

For a few seconds the very serious waiter disappeared completely and there was just this excited football fan grinning at the screen. I said 'and now he is a hero as he just made a save'. We then agreed we'd meet up together to watch Australia play on Friday night on his night off. Likely won't happen but it was a memory moment.

Football does that to people. For a moment, everyone is simply a fan. But I need to stop calling it soccer apparently.
 

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