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Lunch was at a restaurant specialised in nothing but tofu
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I think we also went there when we were at Arashiyama. A little by accident as we just picked a restaurant that looked big (well not small). It was nice enough but woudn't go back. We went in April and our experience was much like yours, it was super busy. So riding a bike was a great way to get around (we used electric bikes so were a bit lazier than you!)
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