Japan Trip #10 - Chasing snow and onsen during zombie apocalypse

[rbjhan]

That beef looks sensational!

Tasted sensational too

 

[rbjhan]

Gero 下呂 is an onsen town located between Takayama and Nagoya.
Originally referred to as one of Japan's top 3 onsen by Hayashi Razan (the other two are Kusatsu and Arima). Onsen is what makes Gero famous, there are many ryokans in town.
Now the scene is set.

Got off the limited express train, before I even exited the gates, I saw 4 men standing at the station entrance, each holding a board with ryokan names on them. Lucikly Ogawaya was on one of the boards, so I quick walked towards him, and both of us knew what this was about, he directed me to the shuttle bus parked just outside.

I've been picked up by many before, but this was different, I cannot tell you how impressive/hilarious this whole thing was
Should have taken a picture of them 4 standing there!

 

[rbjhan]

Ogawaya 下吕温泉 小川屋
The ryokan was only 3 mins away by car, 10 mins walk? As it was raining though, the shuttle bus was a welcome sight.

It was quite a large ryokan.


The entrance doesn't look much


Seasonal decorations in the lobby


There's even a foot bath

 

[rbjhan]

As I said this is a very large ryokan, 5 buildings altogether! At check in I was give a map:


Seriously, you can't leave the room without this map

My room was in the Yuragi building, to get there from the lobby on 3F, you need to take a lift to 4F, walked through a long corridor, and take another lift...


Once stepped into the Yuragi building you can feel the difference in style.

 

[rbjhan]

My room was a 6 tatami Japanese room.
Unlike any of the Japanese room in ryokans I stayed before, it was very bright and airy.


I liked this room a lot!


Balcony


Great view.

 

[rbjhan]

The most important thing in a ryokan like this is obviously the onsen!
There are 3 large baths here, plus a number of private onsen.
A vending machine in the lobby selling tickets to the private onsen and day visits. Never seen this before...
As you can see 1500 Yen day visit, and private onsen will set you back 3300 Yen or 4400 Yen in the Yuragi building.


In a ryokan this size there will always be people in the large baths. So onsen pictures below all from hotel website.
The 3 large baths switch between man/woman during different periods of the day so you can visit all three if arranged correctly.

Onsen #9
First I went to the tatami onsen, as the name suggested it's all tatami inside! I wonder how did they water-proof this


There's also an outdoor bath downstairs.


Onsen #10
In the evening I went to Zen.
This one was my favourite out of the 3.




Onsen #11
The next morning was the last one


Sure these are wide angle pictures, but the baths are really quite large. Even with the number of guests the place didn't feel crowded at all.

 

[rbjhan]

Managed to go out in the evening between onsens
Gero is very pretty. Freezing cold and raining though, not too many people outside.




I booked the room with only breakfast included, so bought instant noodles and oden from Lawson for dinner

Got back to my room and futon was set.
First thing I did was to check the pillow!

It was okay, phew!
But I did grab another mattress from the cupboard just in case....PTSD much?

 

[rbjhan]

First night in Nagano it snowed, and I got to see Zenkoji in snow.
But since then the temp had been quite high....even reached mid teens some days. I've been checking tenki.com like crazy hoping it would drop...
The day before it rained almost the whole day, and just about midnight the rain was turning into snow...

So first thing I did the morning was rushing out to the balcony.
And look at this!!




Oh la la

 

[rbjhan]

After the buffet breakfast


I went out for a walk.




Now that is a real outdoor onsen!


Let's have a closer look. Hmm I wonder who's brave enough to go in?

 

[rbjhan]

The original plan was to leave at about 10.30 to get to Nagoya for lunch.
With the snow obviously I decided to stay in Gero instead.

Went to Onsenji up in the hills.






Nice view of the city from here

 

[rbjhan]

Lots of free foot baths dotted around the city. Unfortunately I don't think it's practical in winter with all the socks and boots...

A few pictures of the JR station area.
I don't think anyone can mistake Gero with anywhere else


Onsen of course


What is this thing with the Japanese people and cutout boards??? They are everywhere! I honestly have no clue...the Gero board is quite clear what this town is all about!

 

[rbjhan]

Another Hida beef lunch, not as good as the one in Takayama though....



Took the Wide View Hida again to Nagoya, then Shinkansen to Kyoto.
I'm sure you guys don't need more picture of trains

It was about 4pm when I reached Kyoto Station.
First stop, Saryo Tsujiri Kyoto Isetan!


What is this Saryo Tsujiri you ask?

 

[rbjhan]

I think I should start by saying, I've stayed in maybe 4 different hotels in Kyoto city centre (meaning exclude Arashiyama / Otsu etc), unlike in Tokyo which I like most of the hotels I've stayed and would be happily back, I didn't fancy any of the 4. Here's hoping for 5th time lucky!

Cross Hotel Kyoto
Feb is low season in Kyoto ( you really don't want to be here during Sakura or Koyo season, okay maybe that's me), booked a standard queen room for about 9300 Yen per night, bargin!
Then got upgraded to a deluxe king room




I especially liked the bathroom, very good size.
I'm seeing a number of new hotels with this design, love it!
(really dislike the shower over bath thingy particularly the Japanese unit bath )
Also note, this was in fact the first hotel on this trip that I used the bathroom. Had been going to onsen non-stop, ha.


Downstairs lounge, comfy.

 

[rbjhan]

Cross Hotel is located in Kawaramachi Sanjo, IMHO the best location in all of Kyoto.
As soon as you step outside, restaurants, bars, shops....the choices are endless.
Walking distance to a lot attractions too. Buses, metro, private railways (Keihan & Hankyu)...all very close. The only thing not close is JR Kyoto Station, but a quick bus ride will take you there no problem.

I had dinner at Yayoiken, one of my favourite Japanese fast food chains


Later that evening, Pontocho


Quite happy with my new phone!

 

[rbjhan]

Haven't stayed in Kyoto since 2017, soooo happy to be back!

 

[k_sheep]

How are you going with language in all these hotels and restaurants?

 

[rbjhan]

How are you going with language in all these hotels and restaurants?

They speak English, varying degrees of course.
Small places like Yumoto Choza would have one or two staff dealing with foreigners.
Most places no problem, as long as you change your way of speaking a bit...basically key words, don't try to be polite or whatever, they won't understand anyways

Say you walk into a restaurant, just ask: English menu? the fewer words the better...
And Google Translate!

 

[rbjhan]

Next morning went to my 2nd favourite Japanese fast food chain Sukiya
Only 530 Yen!


Then walked along Kamogawa...


To Higashiyama district


Hanamikoji was deserted. Wow this really was apocalypse!

 

[rbjhan]

Ninenzaka


If you look carefully you can see the logo...


Yep, the one and only tatami Starbucks.


We in Melbourne do not rate Starbucks or coffee elsewhere in general
But I must confess Starbucks are doing great business in Japan, and from an architecture point of view there are some marvellous stores:

リージョナル ランドマーク ストア｜スターバックス コーヒー ジャパン

スターバックス コーヒー ジャパンの店舗を、住所・最寄駅・現在地などからお探しいただけます。

store.starbucks.co.jp

I've been to a few of them, well worth a visit, not for the coffee!

 

[rbjhan]

Back to Kawaramachi Sanjo, I spotted this restaurant the day before but there was a queue...
Gekijo means theatre, so literally this restaurant name is "Theatre of Meat"
The largest serve is 2500 Yen for 1kg of meat!


I ordered the basic level Gekijo Don for 1000 Yen, plus 500 Yen for the soup, drink and salad.
3 types of meat: spare rib, skirt steak and chicken neck. Yum.
Only regret was that I should have ordered extra spicy sauce...


It's all made to order. The ones being cooked were all larger than mine