Hot and cold in Palau, Philippines, Mexico, Canada & Solomon Islands

Amazing tale @Mattg - you can't even say there were any "lessons learned"

I'm surprised your travel insurance paid out anything given the cause, "civil disruption" , is usually an exception. I'm also wandering if AC wouldn't have assisted if you had been able to them on an online chat when you couldn't get through on the phone.

PS can all AFF'ers who have followed this thread remind me never to travel to Mexico again (I was there 50 years ago and at this time it was amazing' e.g. gravel runway on Cancun. Oh yes and I also got food poisoning that time)
 
Food poisoning whilst travelling is just disastrous...remember once a friend was driving me from KUL airport to hotel in city...1/2 way, I said to take me to nearest hotel immediately...all the doorman could say was Welcome to... as I blurted out where is the toilet? ..made it...just!
 
Food poisoning whilst travelling is just disastrous...remember once a friend was driving me from KUL airport to hotel in city...1/2 way, I said to take me to nearest hotel immediately...all the doorman could say was Welcome to... as I blurted out where is the toilet? ..made it...just!
Food poisoning from MH?
 
Wow @Mattg what an experience! I now feel a bit guilty for prodding you about this TR and hope it wasn’t too traumatic re-living all of this. As a ski fiend myself, I just wanted to hear how much you now love skiing!
 
Amazing tale @Mattg - you can't even say there were any "lessons learned"

There are small things that I would have done differently in hindsight - like not changing my original Viva flight (or just not going to Guadalajara in the first place on that day) - but those aren't really helpful for future trip planning. The main thing I got out of that experience, I think, was practice in dealing with an unexpected situation where you're stuck and in danger. I've unfortunately also had practice with this after being detained on arrival at a certain airport in west Africa (I believe the police was trying to get a bribe out of me).

Perhaps there will be some skills that I can take away from these experiences that might help me in later life.

As @Flyfrequently pointed out, devising a travel version of a DRSABCD chart was quite useful in dealing with what was a very stressful situation in Guadalajara. I didn't set out to do this, but it served me well on the day.

Unfortunately, I think I have also taken away a very small amount of PTSD. Since that day I've had a couple of nightmares where I was in an airport with an active shooter, and I got triggered recently when watching a documentary about American school shootings in a way that I wouldn't have been in the past.

I'm surprised your travel insurance paid out anything given the cause, "civil disruption" , is usually an exception. I'm also wandering if AC wouldn't have assisted if you had been able to them on an online chat when you couldn't get through on the phone.

You're quite right that Air Canada might have done nothing, even if I did get through to them. The travel waiver was for travel booked from GDL or PVR. That said, I figured there was at least a chance of getting a sympathetic operator if I could get through to them, so worth trying. In the end, waiting 3 hours on hold and not even getting through to an operator just added to my stress on the day.

Regarding travel insurance - it took a couple of months to get this sorted. Initially they said they needed more information before they would pay out - specifically, the issue was the reason for my Viva flight's cancellation. Viva's email just said "operational reasons", which the insurer did not find sufficient. However, actually getting anything more out of this airline was like drawing blood from a stone - impossible. They don't have an email address, their online chat is a useless AI bot, and even their call centre just puts you through to an AI assistant who disconnects the call if you ask to speak to a human.

I ended up having a very long call with the travel insurer, with a supervisor getting involved, where I explained this and eventually they accepted that I would not be able to get a better explanation from Viva. The discussion then turned to whether or not power at the airport was "usurped". Eventually they accepted my point that some flights were actually running, the national guard was called in and retained control of the airport, and the direct reason for my particular flight getting cancelled appeared to be a lack of airline & airport staff. They paid out in the end, but it wasn't straightforward.

Wow @Mattg what an experience! I now feel a bit guilty for prodding you about this TR and hope it wasn’t too traumatic re-living all of this. As a ski fiend myself, I just wanted to hear how much you now love skiing!

Haha don't worry, I wanted to write about this experience at some point but as you can see, it wasn't an easy thing to do and I have been short on time lately, so was putting it off. Now the story is out there, and it's time to move on to the next part of my trip report - which indeed is the skiing part!
 
So, after a few days in Kelowna and a side trip to Kamloops, another friend arrived at YLW and the three of us headed up to Big White Ski Resort for a few days.

This is about a one-hour drive from Kelowna and a popular holiday spot for Australians (as well as Canadians and Americans, but Aussies were quite disproportionately represented given how far away this place is from Australia!). Many of the staff there were backpackers from Australia, New Zealand or the UK, staying for a few years on working holiday visas.

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We ended up with enough time at Big White for two full days of skiing. The two friends I was with have been skiing for many years and are basically professionals. I, on the other hand, have skied only once before in my entire life - for about two hours at a mountain resort in Kazakhstan, where I didn't get proper lessons and basically didn't know what I was doing. As you can guess, I didn't get very far last time.

This time, I decided to do things properly. I enrolled in two days of ski lessons, starting from the absolute beginner class where you learn the basics.

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I then "graduated" onto the intermediate level.

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I'll be honest, at the start I was a bit skeptical. At the time, I was thinking that you have to pay a lot of money, wear & carry all this heavy gear, and put yourself at high risk of injury, all to slide down a very cold hill.

But so many people rave about how much they enjoy skiing, so I went in with an open mind and gave it a red-hot-go. After two days, I was hooked.

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The lessons were really, really good on two levels. Firstly, they taught me the technical skills I needed to actually be able to ski. Secondly, they boosted my confidence so that I wouldn't just freak out when I got to the top of a mountain and looked down at the track below. Well worth the money and would definitely recommend to people who have never skied before or want a bit of professional guidance.

By the end of the second day, I felt confident enough to ski solo down some of the medium-difficulty slopes.

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Big White itself was also just a beautiful place. We had some great weather, the level of snow was decent, and the scenery is picturesque. The resort also has lots of bars and restaurants to enjoy some après-ski drinks. I really enjoyed the few days there and will probably go back again sometime.
 
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I flew from Kelowna back to Vancouver on a WestJet Dash 8 Q400. WestJet Premium was not that expensive and included a checked bag (which regular Economy doesn't), so I booked that. It basically gets you priority check-in & boarding, a seat in the first couple of rows with slightly more legroom, and a free snack during the flight. For this flight I also received 220 Qantas points, but no status credits since WestJet is not part of oneworld and this wasn't a QF codeshare. I'll try not to spend those points all at once. The flight ran a bit late but was otherwise uneventful.

I then enjoyed a few days staying with a friend in Vancouver, before flying to Honiara for the final destination of this trip. Another friend was planning to visit Honiara over that following weekend (a long weekend in Australia) and invited me to join. I had never been to the Solomon Islands and this looked very interesting, so I agreed and then set out trying to find the best way to fly from Vancouver to Honiara.

As you can imagine, there aren't many people flying from Vancouver to Honiara - nor is there really a simple way to do it. The only 1-stop option would be Fiji Airways via Nadi, but that requires a minimum 26-hour layover in Nadi and is only possible 2 days per week - none of which were days that I wanted to arrive in Honiara.

The most logical way to do this trip ending up being to fly YVR-SYD-BNE-HIR on Qantas. There was Business Reward availability for the SYD-BNE-HIR portion of the trip, and I managed to also get a Business Classic Reward seat released on a Qantas flight from YVR to SYD as a Platinum member (this is such an underrated and useful Platinum benefit). All sectors were on the same ticket/PNR.

There was only 4.5 hours between the Qantas YVR-SYD flight landing and the BNE-HIR flight departing. If you take the shortest possible connection times in both SYD and BNE, then in theory this is doable. But if either of the first two flights were delayed, I probably would have been a bit stuck as the next BNE-HIR flight would have been two days later.

Luckily, my first 2 flights ended up running on time and the BNE-HIR service was actually delayed, so I did make it. I even had a bit of spare time for a much-needed shower in the Qantas lounge in Sydney, but skipped the lounge in Brisbane as I didn't have enough time there.

It did feel a bit odd clearing Australian immigration in SYD, and then leaving Australia just a few hours later! Obviously I had to do this because I had a domestic sector between the two international flights. This did cause some issues with my travel insurance, though - I effectively needed a second policy to cover the Solomon Islands part of this trip (which thankfully, I didn't end up needing to claim on).
 
It was obvious when I checked in for my Qantas flight in Vancouver that the check-in agent had never heard of Honiara. She started saying "your bag is checked through to..." and then paused as she couldn't work out what airport HIR even was. She finished that sentence by saying "...your final destination." 😂

I had enough time before boarding QF76 for a visit to the Cathay Pacific lounge, which you can access if flying Qantas Business or have an eligible Qantas/Oneworld status or Qantas Club membership. This is probably my favourite lounge at YVR, and I especially love the noodle bar there. It has the typical style of a Cathay Pacific lounge, great service and runway views. All that's missing is real champagne.

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The YVR-SYD flight itself was calm, pleasant and uneventful. I was very grateful to have a lie-flat bed for the long overnight flight.

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I was pretty tired when I got on board, and I think the cabin crew sensed that I just wanted to get to sleep - so tailored their service accordingly. They completed the dinner service quickly and didn't bother me too much, which was exactly what I wanted on this particular flight.

I did have something to eat on board before nodding off, and thought the food was decent.

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I then slept pretty well for most of the rest of the flight, waking up around 4 hours out of Sydney. I did get woken a few times during the night by turbulence, but it wasn't anything worse than you usually experience on a long trans-Pacific crossing.

Breakfast was served a couple of hours before landing, and I got exactly what I'd ordered on the printed breakfast card that I had completed on the ground in Vancouver the night before.

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My next flight from SYD to BNE was a standard domestic Boeing 737-800 experience.

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I was in 2F for this flight, and from the moment I sat down, I could sense that the older, slightly snobby lady in 2D was annoyed by my presence. As soon as I arrived at my seat, she commented "I thought that seat was going to be empty". She warmed up a bit during the meal service and we chatted for a bit.

After having already eaten breakfast on QF76 and then a second light breakfast in the lounge in Sydney, I had a third breakfast on this flight - a toasted sandwich. I declined the offer of more bread on the side to go with all that bread.

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I raced off that plane once we arrived in BNE and headed straight for the terminal transfer bus. Thankfully, I only had to wait a few minutes for that and the queues for security/immigration at Brisbane's international terminal weren't too bad. I met the friend I would be travelling with to Honiara at the gate for the BNE-HIR flight that we would be taking together, just as that was about to start boarding. Phew!

The BNE-HIR flight was on an Alliance-operated Embraer E190. Although we boarded on time, that flight ended up leaving late for no particular or obvious reason.

The crew on this flight were great. There were probably only about 40 passengers on this flight, with only a handful of us in Business, so the relatively light workload probably contributed to their good spirits.

This was the lunch served after take-off in Business:

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After 3 hours of flying, we approached and landed in Honiara from the southwest.

Before landing, a flight attendant made an announcement with an "important message from the Solomon Islands government" about declaring or disposing of biosecurity risk items. This was an exact copy of the Australian government's "just declare it" announcement we always hear on arrival into Australia - except that the word "Australia" was replaced with "Solomon Islands" each time. I guess the fact that I'd heard the Australian version just a few hours earlier made this even more obvious.

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The arrival into Honiara was pretty straightforward. It's a small-ish airport but fit for purpose, given the small number of flights each day.

As we left the airport, a band and lots of kids were singing to the arriving passengers to welcome them into the country. The musical welcome is something you get in various Pacific Island airports (I've also seen musicians performing by the baggage claim in Apia and Rarotonga) and I think it's a nice touch.

The options for getting into town from the airport are basically to get a taxi or hire a car. We opted for a taxi and the driver told us the price would be SBD150 (around AU$30). I don't know if this is the normal price... but he was unwilling to negotiate, I was tired, and it seemed reasonable enough, so we accepted.

The taxi driver asked how long we'd be staying in Honiara and gave us his phone number. He said that if we wanted to hire him for any day trips, we should just call him and he'd be at our hotel within 5 minutes. Except on Saturday, as he'd be in church that day and not working.

There was a lot of construction going on around Honiara. The taxi driver commented that pretty much all of the construction was being done by Chinese companies with either Chinese workers, or a Chinese manager overseeing local workers. He seemed to feel quite negatively about the amount of money that country was investing into the Solomon Islands, because in his mind, the locals were not generally benefiting from this and he was worried about what the country might end up owing down the track. Both are common criticisms of the "belt and road" initiative which I've also heard from locals in various African and Central American countries.

The Solomon Islands is not a first-world country, but there was one building between the airport and the "city" centre that stood out like a sore thumb: the National Stadium. This is large, near-new, multi-purpose stadium with 10,000 seats is probably the most modern facility in the whole country. You can probably guess who paid for the construction.

We had booked a room at King Solomon Hotel for our 3-night stay in Honiara. This place was relatively affordable given the limited accommodation options in Honiara. It's located across the road from the Australian High Commission and is on a bit of a hill, which means it has a bit of a view while also being within walking distance of plenty of things.

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From the outside, King Solomon Hotel looks like it could be quite a nice resort. But my goodness, this place has seen better days. Both the facilities and the service were really bad.

My recommendation, if you're heading to Honiara, would be to stay at Heritage Park Hotel instead. You'll pay a bit more but at least that hotel seemed to have some standards!

When we arrived at King Solomon Hotel, we walked into the reception building to find 3 staff members behind the desk. They looked startled to see guests walk in, like deer in the headlights, and didn't seem to know what to do. They were not welcoming at all, and just stared at us.

What a great first impression...

I said that we had a booking, and one of the reception staff asked me how many nights we wanted to stay. I said we had booked for 3 nights. This staff member then prepared a "quote" for us for 2 rooms for 3 nights which did not match the price on our reservation. Um, no, we already have a booking, and it's for one room. I even showed them the printout from Booking.com and they still didn't seem to quite understand. The care factor was close to zero.

Since the hotel is on a hill, there's a funicular that is supposed to take you up to your room. A neat feature, in theory. Except that the funicular didn't actually work. One of the staff noticed that we were stuck at the bottom of the funicular with our luggage and told us he would call it down for us. He walked off and never came back, so we ended up just walking up lots of stairs with all our luggage.

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Once we got to our assigned room, we discovered that it wasn't the room type we'd booked. Back to reception I go. One of the staff said she would head up to our original room to deliver us a key to a different room. She did not.

The hotel has a swimming pool that looks nice in the photos, but in reality it looked like you would get some sort of disease if you swam in it. The water wasn't clean at all.

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Oh, and the advertised gym? That's a construction site.

Once I'd managed to procure a key to the room we'd actually booked, things didn't get much better. The smoke alarm had been removed from the ceiling, the TV didn't work, the safe didn't work, and the kettle was disgusting. There is a room service menu in the room, but no phone to order from it.

This was one of the drinking glasses provided in the room, which had some baked-on stain inside the bottom of it:

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On our first two nights at this hotel, it was hard to sleep because of a nightclub at the front of the hotel with very loud, thumping music.

If you want to use Wi-Fi in the room, you have to pay extra for that. Free Wi-Fi is ostensibly available in the reception area, but that doesn't actually work.

At least the view was nice and the air-conditioning worked - a big plus given the tropical heat. And at least water came out of the taps - until the last day, when it didn't.

After the first night, we seriously considered just abandoning this hotel and booking in at the nearby Heritage Park hotel for the other two nights. But we were both on a budget and Heritage Park isn't exactly cheap - so instead we would hang out by the pool at the better hotel during the day, buying drinks from their pool bar and eating at their restaurant a couple of times. And we just used King Solomon hotel to sleep and leave our belongings.
 
Solomon Islands is not an established tourist destination and Honiara, the capital and main town on Guadalcanal Island, exists largely for its big shipping port.

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I would say the country is more like Papua New Guinea than it is like Fiji, Vanuatu or Samoa. It's not the kind of place you'd just go for a relaxing family holiday.

For starters, there's not that much to do in Honiara itself. The main tourist attractions are the central market (which exists as a functioning market, not specifically for tourists), the national museum, and the Guadalcanal Memorial - an American WWII memorial overlooking Honiara. Admittedly, the Guadalcanal Memorial was quite well maintained (it has full-time staff looking after it which I assume the Americans are paying for) and the view from it was good.

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There's also a casino if that's your thing.

Other than that, there are a few day trips you could do. I met someone who went to Tenaru Falls and liked it. You could also take a boat trip out to one of the other islands or to try to spot some dolphins.
 
Diving is the other main drawcard of the Solomon Islands, which does have some nice reefs and WWII shipwrecks.

I'm not personally a diver, but after exploring a bit in Honiara on the first full day, we decided on the next day to do a day trip to one of the snorkeling spots on the northwest coast of Guadalcanal Island.

A bit of online research indicated that there would be snorkeling gear available for hire near some of the shipwreck sites off the coast. So, I tried calling our taxi driver who collected us at the airport to see if he would be willing to drive us out there. He didn't answer the phone or reply to my messages, so after 2 hours of silence we switched to Plan B and rented a car for 24 hours. We literally just walked into the first car rental office we saw, asked if there were any cars available for immediate pick-up, and they were happy to oblige. It wasn't outrageously expensive and we would be able to drop off the car at the airport the following day, so that actually worked out quite well in the end.

Our taxi driver did end up calling me back... just after we'd paid for the car.

The drive from Honiara to the beach we planned to snorkel at took about an hour. It wasn't actually that far, distance-wise, but the roads were in poor condition so we couldn't drive very fast. Nonetheless, it was interesting to drive through the many small villages dotted along the road and see how people actually live.

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We passed a billboard along the way that seemed quite out of place. It was posted outside a gated area with a security guard stationed at the entrance.

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The billboard described Mamara, a "new capital city" being built there which would be "a brand new living wonderland". This seemed rather out of place, so I did a bit of research and found that this project was first announced in 2021. The idea was that investors would build a modern township here with all the necessary services and recreational activities including a school, hotel, golf coarse, yacht club, etc. So far, that hasn't materialised and all that's there in this huge area is 50 houses that aren't connected to the country's water or electricity supply.

This article I found online has a bit of background:


Eventually we arrived at the beach that our research suggested was a good place to go snorkeling. There was a man at the entrance to the beach collecting money - I think it was about the equivalent of AU$10 to get in, from memory. But there was no snorkeling gear or anything else to speak of. That fee was just to enter the beach, and honestly I have no idea where that money goes.

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It was a hot, sunny day and the water was crystal clear, but honestly the beach wasn't that nice for swimming and without snorkeling gear, there wasn't much point in being there. Still, we got to see the WWII shipwreck which was literally right off the coastline. A few local families were around having picnics and barbecues.

After returning to Honiara, we headed over to the Heritage Park Hotel again for some sunset drinks.

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Then had dinner at Baker Burger, which was one of the most bizarre fast food restaurants I've ever seen. It was a cross between a burger joint, a Chinese restaurant, and a kid's playground. The only thing more disjointed than the menu was the decor, which sadly I forgot to photograph.

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One eatery we did really like was Breakwater Cafe, which was around the corner from Heritage Park hotel. That place was really nice and we went back for breakfast a couple of times.

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So, am I happy that I visited the Solomon Islands? Yes. Would I rush back there for another holiday? Perhaps not.
 
The checkout process from King Solomon Hotel was predictably terrible and took ages. The staff forgot to even charge us for the room, then couldn't work out the correct amount to charge when I mentioned we hadn't paid - even though it was literally right there on the printout of the booking that I was showing them.

The Qantas website doesn't show any lounge as being available at Honiara International Airport, so I was surprised to be able to get into the Solomon Airlines Belama Lounge on departure as a Platinum member.

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This was decent for a lounge at an airport of this size, with cold drinks and some light snacks available. Although, the one thing I actually needed - a shower - was not available. (It was a very hot day and there was no running water at our hotel that morning.)

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The inbound QantasLink E190 arrived at HIR about an hour late, which meant we also departed back to Brisbane an hour late. There were 43 passengers on this flight, and Business was completely empty.

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I was in Economy for this and the subsequent flights back to Canberra, which I'd booked as a single Classic Reward booking with overnight stops in Brisbane and Sydney along the way.

There were two hot meal choices on this flight - chicken with potatoes, or a vegetarian couscous. The chicken had a creamy mushroom sauce and actually hit the spot for me. Not something I'd want to eat every day, but I must have been craving a bit of comfort food. The wines available in Economy were a red wine or rosé; the rosé came at room temperature so the flight attendant brought me a cup of ice to go with it. Later in the flight, a flight attendant mentioned she had some leftover Business class wine from the previous sector and asked if we wanted some.

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I spent the evening with family in Brisbane before continuing to Sydney the next day, and then finally back to Canberra. I had a 737 for the BNE-SYD leg, then an A220 for SYD-CBR.

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The last two legs were completely uneventful. When I arrived in Canberra, there was a Qatar Airways Boeing 777 parked at one of the gates. That had been there ever since I was in Big White, and was effectively stuck there due to the issues that were happening in the Middle East back in late February/early March.

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This brings me to the end of this trip report. While there were many relaxing and interesting aspects to this trip, it was also a bit stressful at certain points. But that's the beauty of travelling and getting out of your comfort zone - you never know what will happen, who you'll meet or what you'll learn from the new experiences you have along the way.

Thanks for reading!
 
Thanks for the TR. This was certainly a mixed bag of a holiday - great highs and low lows. You will certainly have some stories to top other peoples ones.
 
An ambitious eventful eclectic holiday and great trip report. Glad you have come out of relatively unscathed.
 

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