Go ahead - Mayan my day: Belize and Guatemala get away

[RooFlyer]

Sorry, had to cut that last post short. To continue ..


The dirt road continues as a 4WD track, some boggy patches, some smooth clays, many bumps, and the last 22 miles are paved (they started at the site end but ran out of money ). Overall the road is worse than implied by the LH pic.




Still on the dirt part and in the middle of thick jungle we crossed the Macal River, still in convoy.




Finally, and blessedly after the 'free massage', we arrive at Caracol, a nice grassy entrance area with a small visitors centre, picnic shelters, good toilets and ... more army guys. Quite a few of them. Just off to the left in the RH pic was a section, about 8 of fully armed guys, just back from a patrol (I was asked by my guide not to photograph them directly).

The welcome sign reminded me of Jurassic Park.




We came across pairs of army guys all over the site; I reckon there may have been 20 in all. The guide just said that they were there to deter the low possibility of Guatemalan bandits, and that we were very safe (I believed him) but that night I googled a bit and discovered:

25 September 2014:

Just before midday September 25th, 2014, 20 year-old Special Constable (SC) Danny Conorquie, assigned to the Tourism Police Unit was shot and killed in the line of duty at the Caracol Archaeological Site in the Cayo District. Initial reports reveal that SC Conorquie approached two men of Hispanic descent who were on horseback. The two men opened fire, mortally wounding SC Conorquie, and then fled the scene retreating into the dense cover of the jungle. SC Conorquie was rushed to the San Ignacio Town hospital where he was pronounced dead on arrival.

This incident occurred in the general vicinity of the main temple in plain view of several tourists and tour operators. Security forces were deployed to secure the scene and tourists were safely transported out of the area by the Belize Tourism Board. The general public is hereby informed that additional security personnel have been deployed to the Caracol Archaeological Site to ensure the safety of the hundreds of visitors who frequent the site.

:shock:

I'm glad I didn't know that before I went but in retrospect the site was probably the safest place in Belize, and I wouldn't hesitate recommending the place to any of my family.

 

[tgh]

Fantabulous TR RooFlyer …..…... more more more

 

[drron]

Nothing like a bit of drama to spice up a trip.As usual a brilliant TR of a less visited place.

 

[brzbnkr]

Noting your last post, I have to say I had a little chuckle at the fact that you're going to Belize and Guatemala, but made the comment "not impressed with Mexico in general (people being robbed, assaulted and raped even in 5 star hotels!)".

I found Mexico to feel (and, statistically, be) much safer than Guatemala. I can't comment on Belize as I haven't been there, but have heard enough stories.

Get used to security guards with shotguns - crime is so bad in Guatemala that they have to stand by the Coca-Cola truck with a shotgun, to protect its contents!! We found Guatemala to be absolutely beautiful, easily one of the most beautiful natural sceneries in the world; although you never do feel completely safe (as I did in Mexico). Bandidos are just part of life there, every now and then a tourist destination (e.g. ruins or volcanoes) will get closed to tourists because of risk of muggings and shootings.

Having said that, I think it is mostly a case of using common sense. Don't walk around Guatemala looking like a great target (i.e. wearing a Hugo Boss outfit, nice jewellery, expensive watch) and you'll be fine. Enjoy the country - the land is beautiful, the food is amazing, and 99.9% of the population are very friendly and caring people.

 

[RooFlyer]

Noting your last post, I have to say I had a little chuckle at the fact that you're going to Belize and Guatemala, but made the comment "not impressed with Mexico in general (people being robbed, assaulted and raped even in 5 star hotels!)".

<snip>.

I spend a lot of time in Canada and just after I visited Cancun (and much since, including now) and there were a couple of high (media) profile assaults, rapes etc of Canadians in Mexico (one within a 5 star hotel) and that certainly colours my thinking. I've only had the one 'tourist in a van' experience in Guatemala but from what I've heard (subsequent to my post), your advice and observations are spot on.

I get the impression that Belize is generally OK - the tourists are opening up the place and better personal security generally follows, but Belize City beyond the tourist zone I was told was definitely no go. And I didn't.

 

[RooFlyer]

The amazing thing about Caracol is the low number of visitors. On my day - and I was told this was pretty typical in this the visiting season - there were about 5 4WDs for a grand total of about 15 visitors. We shared the entire site and during that time I met another group only once. The reason for the low numbers is the rough road rather than any security threat (although that would keep some folks away).

Oh, while I think of it, Francis Ford Coppola bought an abandoned resort on the road into Caracol; re-opened it and its called Blancaneaux Lodge. Its meant to be somewhat basic (rustic wilderness), but charges something like US$900/night (I didn't check any of this). Story told by my guide was that Bill and Melinda Gates choppered in for a stay in the wilderness, they had a look around, and promptly choppered out again. I guess the Gates' executive PA would have lost some bark over that.

Anyway, back to Caracol. My guide did well by going in reverse direction from the usual route. That way we had our space to ourself, and the best was left to last.

The first look (RH pic) wasn't exactly what I expected . On the left are Ceiba trees, sacred to the Maya. Softwood, else they would make the most stupendous masts. They grow straight up a lot taller than these ones.




There is still real archaeology going on - there is a small camp of archaeologists and assistants on site and we came across several 'digs'. Large scale temple clearing has stopped; they did a lidar survey last year over a wide area and they are coming to grips with how enormous the old city was - about 200 sq km. Oh, and our patrol friends again.




But soon into the good stuff. For reference this is the South Acropolis area. A Mayan ball court top left. The ball game was a large ball made of rubber and I don't recall the rules, except at some courts (not here) there is a stone hoop oriented vertically on one of the side walls. There is debate as to whether the winners or losers were subsequently sacrificed. I bet the bookies had a wretched time if it were the winners who got the chop.

Bottom pic shows a low temple, and there were probably living quarters about for a middle ranking person, or maybe priests. There have been about 250 burials found at Caracol. Usually under the terraces of the structures, and fairly predictable to find. Mostly in tact, but there are few grave goods - some carved jade, pots etc. Little gold. You can see the tomb opening at the right of the bottom pic and the top LH pic shows inside it. Quite simple.



Around the sites are stelae (carved rock pillars) and altars (dish like structures maybe 1-2m diameter on the ground). These tell the story of the city and the rulers. I think a new stela was done about every 20 years to bring things up to speed. They tell of the battles, the peace, the conquering and coronations. Nearly all have been removed to universities and museums. The one below is a fibre-glass replica. Most of the stelae have been 'decoded'; the Mayan script is known, as is the symbolism of the carvings. One thing though. See on the right, there is a blob at the end of the guy's nose. This is common in very many of the carvings, but its not known what it represents (of course I'm mainly recounting what the guide told me). Maybe a sacred exhalation through the nose; or just a bit of decoration on the hooter.




These are real carvings, under a thatched shelter awaiting removal to the new museum at the entrance. On the left we have the ruler of Tikal (in Guatemala) and on the right, the ruler of Caracol, making a truce. There's a bunch of writing in there and other symbols which I'll let pass . On the right another stela with a story to tell.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next are was the 'A' plaza and group of buildings, one of the major centres of old Caracol and some of the earliest. Check the people down there for scale.






The top panorama is taken from the building at the left in the bottom pic, which was built during 1st century AD ('Classic' period begins 250 AD); the bottom pic taken from the building on the right in the top pic. Originally buildings built around these plazas were covered in stucco and brightly painted - red, blue, ?yellow depending on compass point they were in, and they had distinct religious / ceremonial / palatial functions. The large broad building more a palace; the taller stepped pyramids were temples. Burials have been found here, as well as throughout the site, but mostly without great ornamentation.

Unlike Tikal, which is the next site, you can climb many of these pyramids and structures. Its a bit strenuous, the steps are all at least 30cm high (and its hot and humid ) but why come all this way and not get the views? I'd hate to fall though. That's my guide down below - a bloody steep climb! The lintel in the bottom RH pic is original - almost 2,000 years old.






Note also the jungle pressing in all around. You only have to walk a few metres out and you might get lost - or you'll walk into the next mound! There are dozens of rubbly, vegetation covered mounds all around, in the cleared areas - all a Mayan building waiting to be uncovered.

 

[JohnM]

Unlike Tikal, which is the next site, you can climb many of these pyramids and structures. Its a bit strenuous, the steps are all at least 30cm high (and its hot and humid ) but why come all this way and not get the views? I'd hate to fall though. That's my guide down below - a bloody steep climb! The lintel in the bottom RH pic is original - almost 2,000 years old.

Consider it a little practise for Macchu Picchu RF .

 

[RooFlyer]

Consider it a little practise for Macchu Picchu RF .

Ugh, don't I know it. And with half the oxygen or something.

 

[Bindibuys]

Ugh, don't I know it. And with half the oxygen or something.

Are you taking the train or doing the 3/4 day hike to MP?

 

[love_the_life]

Cusco is actually worse for altitude sickness than MP, so if you are hiking I'd advise an acclimatisation period first. We had no problems but then we were on the train (regular up and Hiram Bingham back - now that was fun!). From memory the Sacred Valley had steeper steps. Our guide was fantastic. At MP he always positioned me on the inside as there were no rails and quite a long way down in some places. Expect he did not want to lose a middle (muddle?) aged client over the edge!

Annyhoo - back to TR. Its a fantastic read, and is becoming seriously tempting.

 

[RooFlyer]

Are you taking the train or doing the 3/4 day hike to MP?

Cusco is actually worse for altitude sickness than MP, so if you are hiking I'd advise an acclimatisation period first. We had no problems but then we were on the train (regular up and Hiram Bingham back - now that was fun!). From memory the Sacred Valley had steeper steps. Our guide was fantastic. At MP he always positioned me on the inside as there were no rails and quite a long way down in some places. Expect he did not want to lose a middle (muddle?) aged client over the edge!

Annyhoo - back to TR. Its a fantastic read, and is becoming seriously tempting.

I land in Cuzco, but get driven straight to the Sacred Valley. Next day also in the Valley. Third day MP, next day MP and Huayna Picchu (well, maybe ), then to Cusco; fifth day tour there.

'Hiking' I'm not doing! Walking gingerly would describe it. Although I am far from fit, the legs generally do well in climbs.

Have just arrived at QF F lounge at LAX. Should get time to post next instalment before I leave.

Edit: I just asked for a Champagne. Reply was 'Yes sir, I have a sweet Champagne or a dry Champagne; which would you like?"

After some further gentle enquiry it was established that the 'sweet' is St? Nicholas; the 'drys' are Mumms and Laurent Perrier.

 

[RooFlyer]

Continuing our walk around most of the site. My guide assures me he has left the best for last, and because we are doing things in 'reverse order' (clockwise), we should have it to ourselves, as most groups race straight here.

And so it is. 'B' group structures and the Plaza with this opening sight. This is Caana, the 'sky place'; and he panorama does it no justice at all.



The building is 43 metres tall and STILL the tallest building in Belize. An aerial pic from here gives some idea as to how big this structure is. The way it rises above the jungle is amazing.




There are 3 tiers of steep steps. And tombs are revealed here and there.





The view from almost at the top. The green courtyard on the right is 2/3 of the way up and is surrounded by three 'peaks' possibly giving the name to the city.




And lastly in this stanza, the fantastic view from the top, overlooking the jungle in every direction, miles and miles, and almost all you can see is the Caracol city! It is about 7km in every direction. the bumps are hills, but each will have buried buildings on and around it. There was no wind, no bird song, just deathly quiet, and not another sole in sight. Worth the price of admission .

 

[love_the_life]

It looks the most amazing place R. It was not only you who had a great "short getaway" from the cold of Canada. I've almost felt I've been there too - the photos are fantastic and the commentary great. Thanks.

 

[JohnM]

and Huayna Picchu (well, maybe )

Wrong attitude, RF - if I can do it, so can you! I felt no altitude sickness at MP, even climbing HP, whereas I did notice it mildly at Cusco.

Don't forget to have cuy (guinea pig) in Cusco - and look closely at the repast in the replica picture of The Last Supper in the cathedral . Also make sure to visit the big market to see lots of unusual food items.

 

[Bindibuys]

Wrong attitude, RF - if I can do it, so can you! I felt no altitude sickness at MP, even climbing HP, whereas I did notice it mildly at Cusco.

Don't forget to have cuy (guinea pig) in Cusco - and look closely at the repast in the replica picture of The Last Supper in the cathedral . Also make sure to visit the big market to see lots of unusual food items.

lac
Ditto here, I was very sick at Cusco, started the hike, but unable to complete, even after 6 months of training here, the altitude got to me. Hubby continued on the hike, and I met him at MP 2 days later. I had no problems at MP.
Enjoy - it is a wonderful place.

 

[RooFlyer]

More panoramas from the top of Caana.




Just as I was about to head down, the tree tops to my left started rustling - a troop of spider monkeys were travelling past - at eye level They were not on display though - mostly just dark shapes amongst swaying branches but one shot out of 10 found a mark:




In ancient times, there was so much more colour here; the temples were stuccoes and painted bright colours, as were the stelae and altars. Here is the remains of one stela and its interpretation on the left, in the visitor's centre.





So, after about 2.5 hrs on site we returned to the picnic ground, as had most of the other groups for a late lunch (supplied - there is no food or drink on site) and most headed off around 2pm. We had one more stop on the way out.

 

[RooFlyer]

I had been chatting to my guide about the geology of the area, so he thought a diversion to one of the caves in the area would be good - it was. Being limestone, there are abundant caves in the area, with various degrees of accessibility.

The one we went to was the Rio Frio cave, a few km down a decent dirt road from the Douglas De Silva ranger / checkpoint area.




Its actually a tunnel about 100m long, rather than a cave.




But the cool thing is that the water has exploited an 'unconformity' weakness between some very old granites, and limestone above it, which was laid down on top of the eroded surface of the granite. (That is, the granite didn't intrude the limestone.) Well, it was cool to me, and worth the diversion.




Next, back to Mayan cities - Tikal in Guatemala.

 

[RooFlyer]

Finally, the day I visit Tikal, one of the wonderful, mythology-invested Mayan cities. Actually, there would be a bit too much 'mysticism' for my liking!

I'm picked up from the resort by yesterday's guide and then we pick up 2 other American couples; lovely people. About a 10 minute drive to the Guatemala border where the van is parked. No pictures!

The FX man comes around and we can buy a little G. currency, with a mere 8% shaved off spot! Anyway, its just souvenir stuff for me. We walk through Belize exit immigration, paying IIRC about US$15 for the privilege. Then walk on to G. immigration, which is pretty easy. About 15 mins for us all to get through both; some days, If traffic is heavy, it can take over an hour, we are told.

A Guatemalan van and driver awaits, and we drive on still good roads through rolling green fields carrying cattle and pigs mainly in the 'Peten' department of Guatemala. A bit later we stop and pick up our Guatemalan guide (the Belize guy is still with us).

After an hour or so we drive down to a small tranquil lake Salpeten, said to be volcanic (dormant!). There is a small neat village and the ladies are doing the washing, each at their own 'stations'.




Another view of the same lake, then a bit further on, a second, larger lake with flooded margins after heavy rain (Lago Peten Itza). Somewhere beyond the point Francis Ford Coppola has another very expensive, very unfancy resort. There is a town at this location El Remate, with some hotels and shops. We don't stop.




After another hour we reach Tikal National Park, where fees are paid and details of our van taken. We then drive on the continuing good sealed road for maybe another 20km, but rather slowly. Reason being that the van is timed out of the entrance and into the visitors area in the park. The driver will get fined/banned if he exceeds 60km/hr (I think) - any more is deemed a danger to animals. That's pretty good/strict management!!

So we arrive at the parking area. Nice and neat, again with good toilets. This is a major tourist site and looks to be organised very well.





From the parking area most people walk into the ruins, but our guide musters one of the park provided free vans, as one of our party isn't too mobile. its quite a long walk into the ruins and even if you are OK walking, its probably a good idea as you get more time at the city, rather than 1/2 an hour getting in and same walking out. Our luxury transport is the back of a flatbed truck. An old tree has been overcome by epiphytes, which are all over the place here.




Then, suddenly, there it is. 'Temple 1' on the left is 47metres tall, so higher than Caana at Caracol and the 6th highest pyramid in Mesoamerica. Its also known as the Temple of the Great Jaguar and was a funerary pyramid dedicated to a king who was entombed in the structure in AD 734. There is a stela at its front, telling its story. On the other side of the Gran Plaza is temple 2 (RH pic). Also known as the Temple of the Mask it was built around AD 700 and stands 38 metres high.

There were a lot more people at Tikal compared to Caracol. They get an average of 450 visitors daily here (today was typical), rising to 1,000 to 2,000 in the peak. You couldn't say the site was crowded, but we didn't have any part of it to ourselves, unlike Caracol.

The temples are all of local limestone, which is bright white when carved, but soon gets the black lichens/mould on it. Originally, like at Caracol, they would have been painted bright colours, usually red in this city.

 

[RooFlyer]

Here's a Google satellite pic with my picture locations mapped, to show that most of the site is still jungle, with only a few areas cleared and grassed. Temples 1 and 2 are in the centre.

The arrival area to the right; we spanned the ~500m gap to the temples via the back of a van. I think we were on site for 3 hours.