Getting high in the Andes, until it got complicated

[offshore171]

I've always wanted to see the mighty Andes mountains of South America. And not just from a distance, but rather getting right into the thick of things.

So the goal for this trip was to get to here:



This is the mountain resort of Portillo, which sits high in the Chilean Andes, at about 2850m altitude. It is surrounded by massive peaks, including Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside the Himalayas, and reaches a ridiculous 6962m.

Travel took place in July 2026.

 

[offshore171]

Being absolute newcomers to South America, the plan also entailed a few days sightseeing in downtown Santiago.

 

[offshore171]

Starting at the beginning, we departed out of Sydney on QF27 direct to Santiago, Chile.

Back in February, during the double points thing, I found a very good mixed class fare on QF.

The Qantas site offered up Business outbound and Premium Economy on the way back, for $5k AUD per head. I had previously thought you had to ring up to get these mixed cabin tickets, but there it was.

Being school holidays, SYD airport was a bit of a zoo. Wildly busy. QF temporary lounge very full.


So QF 27 in J, was very smooth sailing all the way.

In fact, the seatbelt light stayed off the entire 12 hour flight between takeoff and landing.

On a great circle route, this flight skirts Antarctica and then flies almost due north up the South American continent, proving some amazing morning views of the Andes. Try to get a RHS window seat if possible. We were in the middle, so something to remember for next time!

 

[SYD]

Starting at the beginning, we departed out of Sydney on QF27 direct to Santiago, Chile.

Back in February, during the double points thing, I found a very good mixed class fare on QF.

The Qantas site offered up Business outbound and Premium Economy on the way back, for $5k AUD per head.

If you’re planning on a return visit, a QF J Sale fare (return) can be as low as $4,999. We scored that fare in early Feb this year for travel in Oct/Nov. For $5,150 we managed to get open jaw SYD-SCL-AEP//SCL-SYD J return. The tag flight on LA to Buenos Aires is in PE.

I had previously thought you had to ring up to get these mixed cabin tickets, but there it was.

Those unicorns exist but when you try and force it - nada. I managed to get SYD-SIN (return) whY out / PE back via the app but have never been able to replicate it.

On a great circle route, this flight skirts Antarctica and then flies almost due north up the South American continent, proving some amazing morning views of the Andes. Try to get a RHS window seat if possible. We were in the middle, so something to remember for next time!

View attachment 515787

Did the crew lock the window shades during the flight? That’s the annoying thing. We had those RHS views 2 years ago but from memory the shades went to manual only an hour or two before landing…

 

[offshore171]

We then touch down in Santiago.

As a bit of a personal milestone, with the first time in South America now a reality, i've visited every inhabited continent.

The airport is very modern and we get through immigration fairly quickly.

On arrival you are asked to scan a QR code which is displayed on the walls of the arrivals area, and complete a quarantine declaration. Get your esim set up in advance, but if not, there's free airport wifi.

Like Australia, Chile has a strong agricultural economy, so they are quite strict on quarantine. No food at all can be brought in.

As of about a year ago, Australians no longer require a visa for Chile.



We get an uber into the city. The driver has good english and gives us quite a few tips.

However, he was a bit of an exception. We found that English is far less widely spoken than Europe for example. Hotel front desk staff etc, all had good English, but it was a lot less common at restaurants, bars and among uber drivers for example.

Fortunately our teenager took HSC Spanish and was able to step up in a few situations. In saying that, Chilean Spanish is apparently notoriously hard, even for people from Spain.

So much so, that it's a meme. "Is that even Spanish?"

 

[offshore171]

Did the crew lock the window shades during the flight? That’s the annoying thing. We had those RHS views 2 years ago but from memory the shades went to manual only an hour or two before landing

On this occasion they "unlocked" the windows a fair while before landing. The pilots came over the PA telling everyone to check out the views. Always good when they do that!

 

[kpc]

I hope you didn't suffer from altitude sickness! Just spent 2 months in South America earlier this year, my 6th trip - you will love Sth America as there is so much to see and do there

 

[RooFlyer]

Interested to hear how you found downtown Santiago. Had several good walks around there, but last time I went, was told to avoid downtown as it was less, or unsafe.

 

[offshore171]

Interested to hear how you found downtown Santiago. Had several good walks around there, but last time I went, was told to avoid downtown as it was less, or unsafe.

Yeah good question actually.

According to our Uber driver, the situation has improved significantly in the last year or so. Apparently the govt has become a lot stronger against street crime, and it has worked quite well.

He did mention that some parts of town are still a bit dodgy and he said it's best to be off the streets before 10pm.

We were mostly in the Providencia district, which is amongst the safest areas of Santiago and it felt pretty safe walking the streets. The public parks and gardens were well maintained and we noticed council landscaping crews hard at work on the upkeep.

 

[SYD]

Interested to hear how you found downtown Santiago. Had several good walks around there, but last time I went, was told to avoid downtown as it was less, or unsafe.

We stay in Lastarria. It was fine two years ago and staying back there later this year. We were over in Bellavista one night the barman suggested Uber back to the hotel but it was only a short stroll back across the canal.

One of the main things is to stay clear of protests. They can get nasty.

 

[offshore171]

We arrived at the hotel downtown.

Our digs: The AC Hotel Cenco Costanera.

AC Hotel Santiago Cenco Costanera | Modern Hotel

Book your stay at AC Hotel Santiago Cenco Costanera. Our innovative hotel captures the essence of modern travel with seamless accommodations & amenities.

www.marriott.com

We rocked up at 12:30pm and they say you can check in now, no problem. Great!

Further, they tell me that because I am a Marriott member, we can have a top floor room. These are quite special, because the top floor has double height 20 foot ceilings, and floor to ceiling windows, so the rooms feel massive.


Very happy with the hotel so far.

Views from the room:

​