From Cape to cape. Expeditions by land and sea.

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I had done a bit of research on this place and knew I would have to pay an inflated amount for multiple parks.However fate was to smile on me today and I got an honest attendant who only charged me 70 pesos instead of 120 foreigners are usually charged for a week's ticket-mine was a weekend ticket.However the Government does get you by giving the worst exchange rate for your USD.3.05 pesos per USD.Most private businesses gave you close to the official rate-3.25.The best was nearly 3.5,the worst at CUS was 2.8.
Now my research said you can get a guide at the entrance.When I entered I saw the last 3 guides go off with groups.This was actually good news but it was a while before I realised that.All will be revealed later.The views at the entrance are impressive-
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But turning around and looking at the mountains opposite is really impressive-
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And there is something hidden in this picture.Again it will be revealed later.Back to the ruins-
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Wonderful views even from the lower levels-
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Even views of that most absurd hotel.It does make some of the craziest hotels in the world lists.But back to the mountain opposite.Getting to look like something and people are climbing up to it-
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And lichen to remind me of Tassie-
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I had initially planned to do only half of these ruins thinking I am not great at climbing.But I surprised myself and was quicker than anticipated.Probably had acclimatised so on we go-
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And I reach the Sun temple.I had to wait a long time as these 2 young American women wanted at least 20 selfies everywhere.I became friends with a bored looking security guard when I said to him-Just crazy gringos-brought a huge smile to his face.
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I have now reached the military barracks area-
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The view to the mountain opposite was more spectacular-
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So it was a face on the mountain opposite.It was now that fate intervened.I took a rest here and pointed out the face to those looking for it.This included an APT tour group and a group of young Americans.A lovely Asian looking girl kept looking at me and eventually came over and struck up a conversation.Turns out she is Peruvian from Lima but had Japanese heritage as well.There is a fairly large Japanese population in Peru with one being a former President.She offered to be my guide and I willingly accepted.
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At the top some local flora including orchids.
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I've finally caught up; at times you seem to be able to post quicker than I can read!

Thoroughly enjoying this trip report; keep up the great work.

JV
 
I didn't manage to climb up all those steps but MrLtL did with the guide. I was a bit out of breath from the altitude I think (my story and I'm sticking to it) so I mooched around down the bottom while they did the energetic stuff.
 
The tour continues-
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Now a walk around to the other side of the hill=
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That is a wild fuschia in the centre.Here you find plants clinging to the rocks-
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So now I start on my way down-
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You can see the path opposite which leads up to and past the face.
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You may notice that these terraces are much better constructed than those seen before with a lot of the stone quarried rather than field stones.Also they are growing beans on 2 of them-
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And on the mountain opposite that magnificent construction is more store houses.Once again the terraces take advantage of the terrain to bring about microclimates.Walls were often built on the west side of the terraces to release heat at night so extending the range of crops they could grow.
 
Ollyantambo probably dates to the mid 15th century.There was a town here but it was captured by the Incan chief Pachacuti and razed.He rebuilt it as his personal estate.Not only rebuilding the town and agricultural terraces but designing the irrigation system and it is believed a palace overlooking the Urubamba river.
In 1536 the Incan chief defeated a Spanish force here but retreated into the mountains.The townsfolk then became the serfs of Hernando Pizarro.It is believed it contains some of the oldest continuously lived in buildings in South America.
So back at ground level-
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Some carvings.?plans.I believe there are more carvings further up the valley but I was running short of time.
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Now as I walked over to the irrigation system with my young guide I was trying to think how to thank her.Giving her money or taking her to lunch may have been construed wrongly.However she settled the issue asking me if I always travelled alone.I told her I did not but my wife was resting back at the hotel.She left.It seems the it she thought I had was not the it I hoped I still had.
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Last of the ruins-
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By diverting water into a smaller channel the pressure feeds this fountain which then fed 4 holding ponds.Ingenious.
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I then went to find a local restaurant for a late lunch.I asked if They could get me lunch in 30 minutes and was told no troubles.I ordered chicharron peruano.Deep fried pork with potatoes and an extremely nice onion and chilli salad.A serve of their garlic bread and washed down with a local beer-
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Didn't quite finish as the owner was a Peruvian Basil and his grandson played a magnificent Manuel.The food was nice,the performance amusing so when the bill came to 44 sol-usually $US14 and they said $13 I left them $15.I was in a hurry and they were delighted.The restaurant anmd the shops near it on the way to the ruins-
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Time to leave Ollyantambo-
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Shots from the car-the square and ferocious bins-
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Leaving the town-
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And at Urubamba their carnival is in full swing-
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So back to Tambo del Inka about 1630.There had been heavy rain when driving back but had now ceased so I did a walk around the grounds.Impressive.If the weather is fine Thursday's are pizza night on the deck-
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Down to the river the gums rule.More reminders of Tassie-
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Fuschias are the major flower-
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Cant keep a good gum tree down.Lantana is also common-
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More of the views-
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A water feature and the rooms-
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Not everyone has it as comfortable as hotel guests.
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And it does seem to be in to include some Andean geology so here are some rocks-
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But love was in the air-
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More flowers-
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The main entrance-
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And a last fuschia to make up the numbers-
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Our last dinner at Tambo del Inka.I wasn't that hungry so had the tuna cerviche and mrsdrron the beef strips.Washed down with a very nice Chilean SB-
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The sweets on the menu sounded strange but we decided to give them a go.Mrsdrron ordered the blancmange icecream with fresh fruits.Turned out to be dulce de leche icecream with gooseberries and strawberries which she really liked.Mine was called the 3 stooges-gooseberry,prickly pear and chocolate icecreams with quinoa,kwicha and sesame cones plussweet popcorn.Loved it-the weak link was the chocolate icecream.
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Even better when we checked out we got the 20% discount for SPG members we knew about but it also was on the wine.Then got a further 10% platinum discount on food,wine and tours.A very nice surprise.

Monday and a late brekkie.Transport to CUZ at 1120.So a few last pics from the car-
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We arrived at CUZ ~ 1250.Always lots of slow vehicles to hold you up.
We stayed in the Sacred Valley out of necessity due to mrsdrron's altitude sickness.Have to say I was glad we did and very happy we spent 4 nights there I could have done a couple more.So easy to get around as you can just hire a car and driver.I would though start the trip to Machu Picchu from Ollyantambo-only an hour each way by train meaning not such a long day or some more time at MP.Even though MP is spectacular there are many interesting things to do around the sacred valley.Even though it was wet season the fact that we hit it at carnival time was a real bonus.Could have spent the whole weekend just visiting the various towns for their celebrations.
Next.The Latam experience deteriorates further.
 
No priority checkin at CUZ and only 1 agent working.But we got there at the right time with only 1 couple in front of us.Agent announced as he completed the checkin that he had checked the bags through to IGU-no.I didn't want the bags hanging around at LIM for 20 hours and our toiletries were in one of the bags.One had already gone through at this point.He issued new bag tags and said he would personally go airside to put the tag on the second bag.Didn't believe him but what could you do.
Straight through security.A little farcical as when I set machine of I told them I had a metal right knee so got a pat down.Of the right knee only!Figured we weren't going to get much on the plane so bought a couple of snacks-rate here only 2.8 sols to USD.
Originally plane going from gate 3 then changed to gate 5-from an airbridge to a stand.And it had now started to rain.Quite a few in the preboarding lane but several did get turned away.We were the only ones in the Preferente line but still onboard had to wait to get to our seat as a wheelchair pax and a mother with an infant took an age to rearrange their bags.
And we are on a RTW J fare so why Do we not have some preference for the front 3 rows.On all flights some pax moved up from the back to those rows.

LA2122. CUZ-LIM. ETD-1420. Push back-1427. Take off-1456. A322. Seats 4B,C.
ETA-1550. Landed-1550. At gate-1559.
Naturally 4A is a big guy who wants the arm rest to himself plus kept his large camera bag on his right shoulder hence in my space.Fortunately that end of my seat belt was below said bag so I propelled it upwards forcefully.He decided then his bag was safer on the floor.Then he went to sleep on my shoulder and had muscle twitching that propelled his elbow into my side.He woke after 20 minutes with a coughing fit and kept that up for the rest of the flight.
Push back virtually on time I guess to free the bay and then waited ~ 30 minutes until take off.Right after take off mrs 3A reclined into mrsdrron.She spent most of the time standing putting things in and out of her bags.Why recline?

Refreshments-a soft drink and a small packet of chocolate almonds.Had to suspend it for a while and only just finished before descending.Before reaching the gate the women in 4DEF are up,have their bags and are waiting at the door.Peruvians have this change in character if they enter an airport or plane.
So a little wait for the luggage.As suspected our second bag does not appear so go to the baggage desk-big problem.The agent at CUZ has only given us the new baggage tags and the second bag has an old tag.Great confusion.Told bag will be in the transfer section,then on the next plane from CUZ.both wrong.

Fortunately after 90 minutes there is a change of shift.3 women replace the 3 men and their boss listens to us and immediately knows where to check-the early checkin section.Very soon we have our second bag.So now we only have to make our way through all the taxi touts to the Wyndham across the road.
Our troubles have not finished.
 
So we get to the Wyndham.Now there are 2 Wyndhams in Lima and both go by the name Costa de Sol .I had put in search close to LIM so presumed first was the closest.Not so.it just had an address the other had airport though not in bold print.Now I had a prepaid rate for the other but it was $US88 and a taxi at minimum was going to cost $US25 each way so I just forgot the initial booking and made one at the airport-$US155.Though at checkout next morning I noted it was now $352.The room was comfortable-
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good for plane spotting-
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Though I am not sure I want to go on an airline named Law.But we got to see a sunset-
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One final take off-
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then to dinner.I had the fish of the day cerviche,mrsdrron the salmon salad plus a bottle of Chilean SB.Was nice but you couldn't charge it to room and a bit pricy-$US80.
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Brekkie was included in the rate.A fairly ordinary spread.Off to the terminal at 0910.We had BPs but a bit of queue for bag drop.Past the typical Peruvian refreshment places-
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Only short queue at security which was a joke.Everyone turned the light red so for a change no wanding or pat down.The only hold up was the couple in front of us who were completely disorganised and had several bottles of water.
Got an invite to the Sumaq lounge-
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This doesn't seem to have changed much since our first visit nearly 10 years ago.Not a great food selection though I liked their sweet potato chips.Wifi so slow I gave up and not an English language paper or magazine.So I read my kindle.Went to gate at 1115 when they called the flight but crew hadn't arrived so waited until 1145 for boarding to commence.Only 4 in preboarding lane.Amazingly our gate didn't change.Before boarding a gate agent was going around getting everyone with 2 larger carry ons to gate check one.A few told porkies including an American guy with 6 bags who said he had 5 friends with him.At boarding there were only 3 of them.
By the time rows 1-14 were boarding overhead space was filled.The crew really had no idea what to do_One of those older AA FAs would have been very handy.

LA 2443. LIM-IGU. ETD-1210. Push back-1213. take off-1230. A319. Seats 4B,C.
ETA-1815. Landed-1813. at gate-1816.
After pushback the Captain announced a probable 30 minute delay until take off.Fortunately much less.Leg room before 3B was reclined for the whole flight-
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Waiting for take off-
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Lunch-
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The crew take the lead in my worst cabin crew competition.They outdid JQ on their hiding behind the curtain in the galley.And when they did people wanting to use the front loo were not allowed behind the curtain to wait.Had to wait until the previous pax exited the curtain.The curtain only opened at meal service time.That was interrupted by periods of turbulence but it was pot luck if you got served or not.Row 5 missed the food,we missed the tea or coffee service.
Lunch was a soggy sandwhich,a sweet biscuit and some crackers and tiny bit of cheese.I did get a nice glass of Terra Andean Scandalous Carminere and mrsdrron a glass of Premier SB from Chile.Rows 1-3 got 1 refill.Past that you could ask but not receive.Mrsdrron asked for some water.Even that did not appear.

After the meal service the fasten seat belt went on for 45 minutes though no turbulence.From my seat I could see around the curtain.The coughpit door opened at least a dozen times and a woman in civvies appeared from the coughpit and then occupied a jump seat.
Some unusual pax-one older Asian woman kept walking to row 1 and then walk backwards to the rear of the plane.She just kept doing it unless told to sit by the crew.
Then it came time for descent.Nothing happened when the Captain came on and asked for the cabin to be prepared for landing.Around me there were tray tables down,rubbish had not been collected and Mr 3D even had his seat belt undone.Fortunately he awoke just before we touched down and fastened it.Mrs 3B kept her seat reclined.An excuse for me to give a really big kick as we touched down.The woman in 4A is crossing herself.A really heavy landing but virtually everyone applauds.Maybe they all thought they weren't going to make it.

I did manage some shots as we approached IGU-
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