Flying the long way to Europe to take the world's slowest express train (plus a wedding) - HCO
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After checking out, the Omnia very kindly organised the transfer of my bags to the next hotel, gave me a lift down, and helped with buying the tickets. Excellent service throughout, and in a car-free village that transfer is worth more than it sounds.
Then up to the Gornergrat. It's a cogwheel rack railway rather than a funicular - similar idea to the Scenic Railway in the Blue Mountains, though this one runs 9.3km and climbs to 3,089 metres, which makes it the second highest railway in Europe after the Jungfraujoch. Departures roughly every 20 to 25 minutes, about 33 minutes each way, and an eye-watering 132 CHF return.
The view on the way up is very good and worth sitting on the right hand side for. Saw a fair few walkers on the way - you can break the journey at any of the intermediate stations on the same ticket and walk a section - but we were short on time so went straight to the top.
Had lunch at one of the three restaurants up there, with a bit of a view. Food was okay, and quite expensive.
Spent about an hour up there all up, taking in the view. There's an interactive experience included in the ticket price, which in practice means sitting there with a VR headset on. Meant to come back down on the 1440 but there was an issue with the train, so everyone waited for the next one and went down on that instead.
Back down and checked into the Alpen Resort. Got upgraded for free, which was very welcome - the original booking was a single at about 14 square metres and they've put me in a double instead, which is much nicer and a decent size.
Checked out the gym, which is very limited. They do however have an expansive spa and wellness area, which seems to be common across the hotels here. I assume it's aimed at the post-ski crowd.
Dinner with a mate at Restaurant Julian. It was okay - and there's the trend. Outside the Omnia the food in Switzerland has consistently been expensive without being amazing. I suppose that's simply what you pay for here.
We split a Wiener schnitzel, a raclette and a lamb fondue. The fondue was the interesting one - it used a broth rather than cheese, and came with a collection of pickles and sauces, closer to a hot pot than anything. As I understand it cheese fondue is the one served with bread and vegetables, while meat fondue is either cooked in broth (fondue chinoise) or in oil (fondue bourguignonne). Neat concept and the meat was good, but not cheap. All up about 80 CHF a head.
Then laundry. There's a laundromat in town about 10 minutes from the hotel - which I only discovered existed while I was at dinner, and which turns out to be directly next door to the restaurant. So I walked 15 minutes back to the hotel to get my washing, then walked back into town to do it. 28 CHF all up for a wash and dry. For context the hotel offered to do the same load for 54 CHF.
While it ran I caught up with my mate for a drink at the Omnia, since he's still staying there and it was just up the road then collected the washing and headed back.
Transfer to the station organised for the morning and the Glacier Express. Breakfast is included in the rate but I'm not sure I'll bother - I suspect there'll be a lot of eating tomorrow.
Then up to the Gornergrat. It's a cogwheel rack railway rather than a funicular - similar idea to the Scenic Railway in the Blue Mountains, though this one runs 9.3km and climbs to 3,089 metres, which makes it the second highest railway in Europe after the Jungfraujoch. Departures roughly every 20 to 25 minutes, about 33 minutes each way, and an eye-watering 132 CHF return.
The view on the way up is very good and worth sitting on the right hand side for. Saw a fair few walkers on the way - you can break the journey at any of the intermediate stations on the same ticket and walk a section - but we were short on time so went straight to the top.
Had lunch at one of the three restaurants up there, with a bit of a view. Food was okay, and quite expensive.
Spent about an hour up there all up, taking in the view. There's an interactive experience included in the ticket price, which in practice means sitting there with a VR headset on. Meant to come back down on the 1440 but there was an issue with the train, so everyone waited for the next one and went down on that instead.
Back down and checked into the Alpen Resort. Got upgraded for free, which was very welcome - the original booking was a single at about 14 square metres and they've put me in a double instead, which is much nicer and a decent size.
Checked out the gym, which is very limited. They do however have an expansive spa and wellness area, which seems to be common across the hotels here. I assume it's aimed at the post-ski crowd.
Dinner with a mate at Restaurant Julian. It was okay - and there's the trend. Outside the Omnia the food in Switzerland has consistently been expensive without being amazing. I suppose that's simply what you pay for here.
We split a Wiener schnitzel, a raclette and a lamb fondue. The fondue was the interesting one - it used a broth rather than cheese, and came with a collection of pickles and sauces, closer to a hot pot than anything. As I understand it cheese fondue is the one served with bread and vegetables, while meat fondue is either cooked in broth (fondue chinoise) or in oil (fondue bourguignonne). Neat concept and the meat was good, but not cheap. All up about 80 CHF a head.
Then laundry. There's a laundromat in town about 10 minutes from the hotel - which I only discovered existed while I was at dinner, and which turns out to be directly next door to the restaurant. So I walked 15 minutes back to the hotel to get my washing, then walked back into town to do it. 28 CHF all up for a wash and dry. For context the hotel offered to do the same load for 54 CHF.
While it ran I caught up with my mate for a drink at the Omnia, since he's still staying there and it was just up the road then collected the washing and headed back.
Transfer to the station organised for the morning and the Glacier Express. Breakfast is included in the rate but I'm not sure I'll bother - I suspect there'll be a lot of eating tomorrow.
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craven morehead
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The Glacier Express, St Moritz to Zermatt - except I did it the other way, Zermatt to St Moritz, on GEX 902. Excellence Class, carriage 21, seat 16.
Look, there's not much to say. It was amazing. The weather was truly stunning, the views were great throughout, the food and wine were good, and it's one of those things you just have to experience. Highly recommend.
Some detail for anyone considering it. Excellence Class is 20 seats in the whole carriage, a guaranteed window seat, and a surcharge of 540 CHF on top of a first class ticket. You get champagne and an aperitif platter on boarding, then a five course menu with a wine pairing per course, plus soft drinks, water, coffee and afternoon tea-time treats. There's a bar at one end and a concierge team who come through with commentary on what you're looking at.
Menu here: Glacier Express: Culinary Highlights Onboard
The wines are regional and genuinely well chosen rather than an afterthought. Two that stood out, both from Graubunden and both from villages within twenty minutes of Chur, which is where the train was heading. A Davaz Flascher Pinot Blanc 2025 - crisp, high acid, green apple and pear, and the pick of the day for me. And a Manfred Meier "Schiller" 2025 from Zizers, which isn't a normal rose at all - Schillerwein is a traditional Swiss style where red and white grapes are fermented together rather than the rose being pressed off red grapes, so it has real body and grip where a Provence rose has none.
Also got a martini from the bar for 15 CHF - it was well made.
High point of the route is the Oberalp Pass at just over 2,000 metres. The train runs at about 40km/h for most of the day, which is the entire point - it's billed as the world's slowest express train and it earns the title.
Eight hours and it did not drag once.
Interestingly there were two seats which I wasn't expecting as my mate had tried to book last minute and it said sold out. Let's just say it would have been a very expensive no show -they do make it clear there are no refunds - but hey you never know.
Look, there's not much to say. It was amazing. The weather was truly stunning, the views were great throughout, the food and wine were good, and it's one of those things you just have to experience. Highly recommend.
Some detail for anyone considering it. Excellence Class is 20 seats in the whole carriage, a guaranteed window seat, and a surcharge of 540 CHF on top of a first class ticket. You get champagne and an aperitif platter on boarding, then a five course menu with a wine pairing per course, plus soft drinks, water, coffee and afternoon tea-time treats. There's a bar at one end and a concierge team who come through with commentary on what you're looking at.
Menu here: Glacier Express: Culinary Highlights Onboard
The wines are regional and genuinely well chosen rather than an afterthought. Two that stood out, both from Graubunden and both from villages within twenty minutes of Chur, which is where the train was heading. A Davaz Flascher Pinot Blanc 2025 - crisp, high acid, green apple and pear, and the pick of the day for me. And a Manfred Meier "Schiller" 2025 from Zizers, which isn't a normal rose at all - Schillerwein is a traditional Swiss style where red and white grapes are fermented together rather than the rose being pressed off red grapes, so it has real body and grip where a Provence rose has none.
Also got a martini from the bar for 15 CHF - it was well made.
High point of the route is the Oberalp Pass at just over 2,000 metres. The train runs at about 40km/h for most of the day, which is the entire point - it's billed as the world's slowest express train and it earns the title.
Eight hours and it did not drag once.
Interestingly there were two seats which I wasn't expecting as my mate had tried to book last minute and it said sold out. Let's just say it would have been a very expensive no show -they do make it clear there are no refunds - but hey you never know.
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And a separate post for a selection of highly reflective and out of focus pictures I took along the way. Honestly they just don't do them justice, the Swiss countryside is like nothing else, even the small towns you whizz past are amazing.
Also possibly not clear in the pics but the mountains are covered in red leaf from a berry plant - it makes them really colourful.
Also possibly not clear in the pics but the mountains are covered in red leaf from a berry plant - it makes them really colourful.
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It's rare for me to successfully challenge military men on matters of navigation, but wouldn't SYD-LAX be Eastbound and northeast?
Enjoying your TR; our paths crossed only a few days out.
You are correct - I blame the jetlag!
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Yeah, I definitely find eastbound flights worse for jet lag, especially flying from Australia to the States. I reckon it’s because you’re trying to make yourself sleep earlier, whereas going west you can just stay awake later, which feels much easier.
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Bringing back great memories here. I did the Glacier express a couple of years ago. I sat at a table with 3 Chinese guys who spent most of the time on their phones with their headphones in but drank a lot of champagne.
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Had to backtrack after the glacier express ended to Chur - and incidentally it's pronounced "koor". Mainly because I think the train from st Moritz to Vienna has to go through Chur and also because it's much cheaper hotel wise (but still expensive by non Swiss standards). Also got a view of the famous viaduct on the way back - much less crowded and much cheaper than the glacier express - and no one batter an eyelid. I guess it's like transiting over the Sydney Harbour bridge when you work in the city.
Short walk from the station to the Mercure Chur City West, which is where I stayed. It's just around the corner from the Ibis and, interestingly enough, was also cheaper.
Welcome drink offered (didn't use it), status acknowledged, and an upgrade to the top floor. There's apparently a fitness centre but I didn't bother checking it out. Room is spacious and modern, the air conditioning works, and I got a nice sunset out of it.
Checked out at 9 and got the bus to the station. Worth knowing that if you're a tourist you get a guest pass, which gives you various discounts and, most importantly, free buses around Chur.
Arrived earlier than expected so picked up a special pretzel with Swiss meats and butter. The pretzel was topped with Mostbrockli - air-dried, lightly smoked and cured beef that's a speciality of eastern Switzerland and Graubunden in particular, so very much a local thing rather than a national one. The name comes from Most, the fruit must it's traditionally marinated in, plus Brockli, a little chunk. Sliced paper thin and eaten with butter. Well worth grabbing if you see it it is delicious.
Today is about 9 hours of trains. One to get me to the border, one to get me just across it, then a longer run in Business Class - the class above first on ÖBB - into Vienna.
On the subject of Swiss train classes: 1st is nice, but 2nd is far from shabby. 1st gives you better seating and more space, but unless the train is packed, 2nd will get the job done perfectly well.
Short walk from the station to the Mercure Chur City West, which is where I stayed. It's just around the corner from the Ibis and, interestingly enough, was also cheaper.
Welcome drink offered (didn't use it), status acknowledged, and an upgrade to the top floor. There's apparently a fitness centre but I didn't bother checking it out. Room is spacious and modern, the air conditioning works, and I got a nice sunset out of it.
Checked out at 9 and got the bus to the station. Worth knowing that if you're a tourist you get a guest pass, which gives you various discounts and, most importantly, free buses around Chur.
Arrived earlier than expected so picked up a special pretzel with Swiss meats and butter. The pretzel was topped with Mostbrockli - air-dried, lightly smoked and cured beef that's a speciality of eastern Switzerland and Graubunden in particular, so very much a local thing rather than a national one. The name comes from Most, the fruit must it's traditionally marinated in, plus Brockli, a little chunk. Sliced paper thin and eaten with butter. Well worth grabbing if you see it it is delicious.
Today is about 9 hours of trains. One to get me to the border, one to get me just across it, then a longer run in Business Class - the class above first on ÖBB - into Vienna.
On the subject of Swiss train classes: 1st is nice, but 2nd is far from shabby. 1st gives you better seating and more space, but unless the train is packed, 2nd will get the job done perfectly well.
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