Cruising the South Pacific, no show tunes allowed

Too low! :)

We had the same view back in April.

That size ship looks just fine - we passed through on the Celebrity Edge ~3000 PAX but that actually was fine also - especially with only 10 kids in total!).

Plus Spirit looks a LOT better than our last NCL cruise 2 years ago on the Jewel around Asia - it was very tired.
We were at full capacity SYD, just over 2000. We'd expected near to no kids but it was US summer holidays so there were kids from toddler age through to teens, all well behaved. If only all of the parents had been. Maga is everywhere.
 
June 10, Ra'iatea

Not so many drinks last night although we did give it a nudge. A drinks package where the staff come to you is such a pleasure compared to the cough shoot that it was on RCL three years ago. The three staff in Magnum's - El Marie, Michael and I Ketut know our names after just one night. They are the best wait staff we've ever had the pleasure of working with in 25 years of cruising.

In Ra'iatea I booked a tour through TripAdvisor - 4x4 tour - culture crafts and agritourism, operated by Hubert of Hava'i Tour by 4x4. Cost was AUD243 for the two of us. https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attr...urism_in_Raiatea-Raiatea_Society_Islands.html

Docked in town so no rush for tender tickets

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I was sent clear instructions of where to go inside the ferry terminal building to get tickets but it was actually just the meeting point. There were three other couples on the tour including a French couple who weren't on the ship.

It was an excellent informative three and a half hours.

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Hubert was super interesting. He had sailed the Atlantic single handed at a terrifyingly young age. We went up to a viewpoint where Hubert explained the geology of Ra'iatea.

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copra drying

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Then we visited a pearl farm, something we'd done before in Huahine, but this was a much more intimate experience. Very interesting how they use shell from Japan for the good pearls.

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Next we visited the UNESCO listed Taputapuatea Marae Explore Taputapuatea - Tahiti Tourisme

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before driving to Hubert's amazing permaculture garden. I took notes but clearly didn't press save.

first a cooling drink

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His garden was ridiculously productive. Hundreds of kilos of avos and honey and melons and mangoes. We tried his delicious honey infused with vanilla that Hubert had also grown. Such an inspiring bloke.

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We had all had a great time. One of the couples is heading back to Australia later in the year. Driving from Brisbane to Port Douglas and maybe beyond over either four of five weeks. They've done other single route drives in Oz and love it so much they keep coming back. That's the way to see Australia.
 
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Lunch time and we had a super delicious raw fish meal (again) at a wonderful little cafe La Raie Gate in the ferry terminal. Washed down with some more local beers of course.

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I bought a couple of very reasonably priced shirts, and bAlt a sorely needed bucket hat, in a shop in the terminal, before I convinced bAlt that we needed to visit the supermarket. I love wandering through local supermarkets.

Mahi Mahi head anyone?

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cheese?

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fruit and veg?

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pastries?

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baguettes?

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then back to the ship after a wonderful day. bAlt, wait for me!

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Ra'iatea is a really beautiful island that I could see myself staying on for a few days

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We had our first and only pier walkers here. They kept calling a couple of names as it got to sailaway time. We'd been out on deck having a cooling beverage when a fancy catamaran sailboat went past with a couple of people out on the trampolines. bAlt said I bet that's them. 15 minutes later they strolled down the pier carrying their toddler and pushing a pram with not a care in the world. Peak entitlement.

The sailway from Ra'iatea started pretty spectacularly and just got better.

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The sailaway from Ra'iatea was just one of those magic moments that will stay with us for a very long time.

It was only a short voyage to Bora Bora. We could see it in the distance and it took centre stage over the next couple of hours.

We sailed close to the airport of Ra'iatea and watched an ATR come in to land. On the other side of the ship we were approaching Taha'a and we sailed very close to the island as we slowly made our way up towards the opening through the reef to the open ocean

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Then the sunset began, with Bora Bora right in the middle of it. Such a beautiful hour or so

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a tight manoeuvre to get out through the passage

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quite the collection of planets in sight - Venus, Jupiter and Mercury

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Dinner in Taste, the smaller of the two dining rooms. We didn't have to wait once for a table in either restaurant and apart from that first overdone pork cutlet all of the meals were good. Plenty of space around each table. Wonderful smiling staff. Water and wine glasses refilled. No complaints at all.

We went to a show in the theatre - Broadway Cabaret. We didn't last long as despite no show tunes being allowed there were literally none in the first few numbers. We weren't the first to get up and leave.

Bora Bora tomorrow. Sadly the weather didn't look like it was going to co-operate.
 
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June 11, Bora Bora

We spent two full days in Bora Bora last time we were here. One day we rode around the island on bikes, visited the public beach where we swam in our reg grundies and visited the famous Bloody Mary's. The next we spent a magical day out in the lagoon with the aptly named Lagoon Service Bora Bora. I didn't even look at other alternatives for this visit and booked a half day tour with for EUR248 Bot Verification

Tender port of course so bAlt went up and grabbed tender tickets right on 06:30. The collection point was the Spinnaker Lounge on deck 12 (we were on 11) and maybe a one minute walk away. They didn't police the group number you had, just that you had two tickets when you went down to get the tender.

Watched the sail into the lagoon from our balcony. It was a little grey but we'd already know that it would be. The ship then pivotted so we were facing directly towards the peak. Quite amazing.

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Had our usual breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and a spoonful of granola and then got ourselves ready.

Even though the tour was 9:00-1:30, pick up was not until 9.45 at the pier. I'd contacted Lagoon Service a couple of times about this but had no response. Finally the night before a couple of emails confirming all was good and that pick-up time was correct. First pick-up, at one of the resorts was 9.

We were ashore by not long after 9

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and found one of the Lagoon Service reps who pointed us to some seats next to the pier to wait for our boat.

I have failed to mention there a huge number of Chinese on the ship. I'd guess maybe 300. Personal space is not something they acknowledge so we found ourselves crowded at the buffet, going into the show room, going through lift lobbies (we only used the steps), boarding and disembarking tenders, just anywhere and everywhere. But they were always having a great time and nearly always polite. We've been to China. We know how they operate enmasse.

Tendering was their downfall. They hated being separated and constantly pushed past you to stay together.

We were getting off the tender to go back on to the ship somewhere and a man tried to push past me. I turned around, put my hand up, and said "Just wait your turn". He apologised profusely, and waited.

Some USaians I spoke to didn't see them as we did and I heard them complaining about the Chinese quite a bit.

Back to Bora Bora.

A large ferry was at the pier and a couple of groups of Chinese streamed onboard, pushing through everyone else waiting patiently on the dock.

Eventually someone said our boat was arriving. We joined the back of a group and they started boarding a pretty basic looking skiff. Maybe 14 people. The lady I'd spoken to earlier saw us and said no, not that boat and pointed to another approaching, that boat. Basic to bloody swish.

I wish I'd taken a picture of the inside of the boat. Super comfy bench chairs with cupholders and full shade. There were two other couples already on board and six joined from the ship.

We had a great skipper and a great group of people. A young Irish couple sat beside us and we hit it off immediately. The skipper explained that the currents were much stronger than expected so we'd only have two stops instead of three. That's what we did.

First stop was sharks and rays. Very different to our first time when the rays swam up to and kind of on to you. This time they all just swam around you. The waterproof bag for my phone was difficult to operate and I'm lucky I got any pictures. Water wasn't super warm ut it wasn't cold either.

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our skipper keeping an eye on us

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one of the many boats around us

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sharks and rays

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the second stop was deeper and was snorkelling over bommies. Lots of coral, fish and one very large moray eel. No photos

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bAlt deep in coversation with our new Irish friends

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cold drinks and food was provided - fruit, banana bread

We did a full circumnavigation of the island and lagoon. Two of the couples were staying at the Westin (I think) so we dropped them off first then continued right around back to the boat harbour. The couple from the Conrad stayed onboard to be dropped off after us. We all had an enjoyable morning.

Both us and our Irish cruise mates decided it was time for beer, and maybe lunch. They headed one way, we the other, but it was us who had a table and seats waiting when they found the only place serving beer :)
 
Lunch time and we had a super delicious raw fish meal (again) at a wonderful little cafe La Raie Gate in the ferry terminal. Washed down with some more local beers of course.

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I bought a couple of very reasonably priced shirts, and bAlt a sorely needed bucket hat, in a shop in the terminal, before I convinced bAlt that we needed to visit the supermarket. I love wandering through local supermarkets.

Mahi Mahi head anyone?

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cheese?

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fruit and veg?

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pastries?

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baguettes?

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then back to the ship after a wonderful day. bAlt, wait for me!

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Ra'iatea is a really beautiful island that I could see myself staying on for a few days

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We had our first and only pier walkers here. They kept calling a couple of names as it got to sailaway time. We'd been out on deck having a cooling beverage when a fancy catamaran sailboat went past with a couple of people out on the trampolines. bAlt said I bet that's them. 15 minutes later they strolled down the pier carrying their toddler and pushing a pram with not a care in the world. Peak entitlement.

The sailway from Ra'iatea started pretty spectacularly and just got better.

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Enjoying the TR as always

I'm another that likes to check out local supermarkets
 
We ate, and drank (quite a bit), at Bobcat. Cold beers and nice reasonably priced food. Funny how every now you meet someone, in this case two people, who you hit it off so well with and know you'll be friends forever. This is how we feel about K & M from Belfast.

New beer

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Hinano white was abvailable on the ship.

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They had four different Hinano beers available at the bars on the ship. They also had Great Northern (yikes) that we saw lots of we're guessing Australians drinking. Different bars had different beers.

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we made a very good attempt to be on the last tender back to the ship. No calling for missing passengers here.

Beautiful sailaway out through the reef pass

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we didn't feel like much for dinner so grabbed some food from the buffet. There were always interesting new choices each day, Asian and from the Americas.

Did our usual bar crawl and as usual ended up at Magnum's. Another excellent day, even if the visit paled compered to our two days in 2015.
 
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June 12, our first sea day

We love sea days. For us being out on the ocean is equally as important as the ports. I love looking out across the vastness. Overnight the sea state had changed and we were sailing at a decent clip in some much bigger swells. These greeted us on the stairs as we headed to Windows for breakfast

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really nice breakfast in Windows

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the most expensive thing that we did onboard was the behind the scenes tour. USD99 each. It had been much more expensive when we'd looked before the cruise started. We really enjoyed it. We started in the theatre where we went up onto the stage,

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then to the dressing room

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it was then off to the kitchen. The two main dining rooms and the buffet are served by one large kitchen then each of the specialty restauramts has their own

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menus come from head office in Miami with some ability to create other menus on the fly. Perishables are replenished locally between each sailing, with non-perishables shipped in from the States.

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then to the laundry. A number of us had a hard time getting our heads around signing up to work in this hot hell hole

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next we went into the dry store. Again, super interesting explanation of how the stores are ordered in, kept track of, and rotated

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final stop was the bridge where we were only allowed to take photos out of the windows, and not of any of the equipment. On The World it was open slather

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back to the cabin that was just along the hall from the bridge. Not sure if I have already inlcuded a photo of how much storage we had

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lunch from the buffet. The paella was really very good. They had no hesitation giving food the heat and spice it should have

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sat out above the pool. This whole area behind and below the buffet on 12 and 11 was our favourite area on the ship

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We spent the afternoon in Spinnaker playing cards and stayed until after the beautiful sunset

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Second of five specialty dinners. This was at Le Bistro and it was excellent. More champagne tonight as the settlement of our apartment had gone through and the funds had been deposited. We were all clear for the purchase of our new apartment in West End

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June 13, Rarotonga

This was our third visit to Raro. We love it. Such a relaxing unhurried little jewel.

There's a bus service that runs a clockwise and anti-clockwise circle but we decided it would be better to have a car. I booked one through Rarocars RaroCars » Van & Car rental Company in Rarotonga. It said on the booking we'll be in touch to confirm, but they didn't get in touch.

On May 24 I followed up and got a very terse response saying the booking was cancelled as they are FULLY BOOKED. I responded letting them know that we hadn't been advised but got nothing further back from them. So I booked with Avis instead.

I'd been reading online posts about previous failed calls to Raro so the forecast of wind and some rain didn't give me high hopes of getting ashore. This was what greeted us as we pulled back the curtains

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AFter the 20+ minute walk from the tender dock and a difficult customer in front if us, it was nearly 9.30 when we drove out of the airport carpark. The lady looking after the office was gorgeous, and hilarious. Apologised profusely for only have a pink Yaris left. I said do we look like we'd care and she shrieked with laughter.

pink?

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One our way back to Avarua town we drove past Raro Cars and the lot was full. You try to support a local business and they **ck you over hoping to get a higher rental rate. We won't bother trying them when we go back to the Cookies.

Went looking for a couple of museums that hadn't been open when we were here before and it was the same again. Next of bAlt's places to go was the waterfall at the end of the cross island walk. We stopped at Black Rock first

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and then up and down some small roads in a fruitless search for the track to the waterfall

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Next we decided we'd go look for some fish at Fruits of Rarotonga. It was the name of the juice bar across the road from the beach. Sadly it was very blowy when we got there and there was no way we were going to paddle out to the reef looking for fish

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the snorkelling gear would stay dry. We drove to Muri inteding to have lunch at either the French cafe we'd found last night, or the sailing club we'd frequented on our stay down at Muri.

Instead we visited the very interesting Te Ara Cook Islands Museum of Cultural Enterprise (very interesting) where we had a delicious pie and salad. The flaky pastry was other worldly!

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then we went for a walk in search of where we stayed last time - Muri Beach Cottages. Sadly it looks like Gwen's cottages might no longer be available. The little villa that we stayed our first night in, perched above the rocks was still there, but there was no signs of life

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we walked along the beach towards the resports and the sailing club.

Near the Pacific Resort someone called out to us and it was one of the people that we'd met by the pool back at Papeete. We'd bumped into this person every day since, sometimes more than once. It was K and M we wanted to see again but despite looking for them the day before we'd been unsuccessful.

more Muri

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We decided that we needed to get into the water so we stopped at one of the beaches as we drove back towards the airport. The water was not as warm as it had been in FP, and the wind was a little cool, so we didn't stay in long. Colin continued to behave. I'd had no issues with all of the swimming I'd done so far and taken no additional precautions.

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Filled the car up and dropped it off to our friend at the airport. Somehow I squeezed nearly NZD10 into it. We should have come over as soon as possible to make the most of our time. Oh well, next time.
 

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It was pretty close to last tender time by the time we walked down to the dock

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a good half hour after last tender time a bus pulled up above the dock and a large group of people trailed down to the tender. What on earth could have caused a ship's tour to be so late on an island so small?

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beautiful Raro, see you soon

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another new beer for us. I think this one is from the Caribbean

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last tender finally ready to be winched up

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bye

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a sign of things to come?

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we both really enjoyed dinner in Windows. We sat right against the windows and the ship was vibrating quite a bit as the Captain increased our speed to get us to American Samoa the day after tomorrow

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from our seat in Magnum's

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