Cruising from Bali to Irian Jaya and down to Cairns

[RooFlyer]

The original fort at Banda Neira, Fort Nassau. Wikipedia:

Fort Nassau was the first Dutch fort built on Banda Neira Island, the main island of the Banda Islands, part of Maluku in Indonesia, completed in 1609. Its purpose was to control the trade in nutmeg, which at that time was only grown in the Banda Islands.

The Portuguese had previously attempted to build a fort in this location in 1529 but, after constructing the foundations, they abandoned the work due to hostility from the Bandanese people.

On 25 April 1609, the Dutch fleet commander, Admiral Verhoeven, sent 750 soldiers ashore to commence their fort, choosing the Portuguese foundations as the location. The Bandanese, threatened by the new fort and the strength of the Dutch presence, and opposed to the Dutch plan to monopolise the Bandanese nutmeg industry attacked the Dutch, killing Admiral Verhoeven and 40 of his men.

The Dutch hurried the fort to completion, and it served as their principal administrative and military base in the Bandas, later supplemented by other forts on Banda Besar, Forts Hollandia and Concordia, and Ai, Fort Revenge.

Not much left - mostly the outer walls, with some of them restored.

 

[RooFlyer]

We next moved onto Fort Belgica, which dominates the hill above the town. From Wikipedia:

Before Fort Belgica, there was a 16th-century Portuguese fort standing on a hill in Banda Neira. On September 4, 1611, Pieter Both, the first Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies, instructed the construction of a new fort to fortify the hill which dominated the original Dutch fortress, Fort Nassau. This fort was to be named either Belgica or Nederland, and it became Fort Belgica. Fort Belgica was a modest square fort on top of a hill. In 1662, Jan Pieterszoon Coen ordered the renovation of the original fort, so it was replaced with a more solid redoubt that could accommodate 40 men.

By the mid-seventeenth century earthquakes, the tropical monsoonal climate, and poor original construction materials and techniques had resulted in the structure becoming dilapidated. In 1667, Governor Cornelis Speelman instructed Engineer Adriaan de Leeuw to redesign and reconstruct the fort. The result was the present "castle", the major modification works started in 1672 and was completed by 1673. The new Fort Belgica was built from stone shipped to the island. The new design consisted of a low outer pentagonal structure with five angled corner bastions and a higher inner pentagon with five tall circular towers. It is the only fort of this kind throughout the Banda Islands.

Despite over 300,000 guilders spent on the modifications, an armament of 50 guns and a garrison of 400 men Fort Belgica surrendered to a British fleet in 1796 without a shot fired. Returned to Dutch control in 1803, it was again taken by the British in 1810, when it was stormed by a naval force under Captain Christopher Cole.

Partially demolished in 1904, it was incompletely rebuilt in 1919.[6] In 1991, following the order of General Benny Moerdani, at the time the Minister of Defense and Security of Indonesia, the fort was thoroughly restored.








Inner courtyard



Rabbit warren of rooms off the courtyard



On top



Views

 

[RooFlyer]

Then it was down to a place where the town put on a welcome.

Welcoming singers







Multiple tables groaning with local goodies, plus stuff like cinnamon tea, coconuts etc. Wow, so well done.



Then formalities of the Mayor welcoming us, presenting the Captain with a ship model - Captain reciprocated with a load of French food!






A reaaly nice experience. Afterwards, we repaired to the ship for lunch, for me taken as usual on the pool deck with Chef's specialty (garlic prawns on the hot plate) and a nice glass of (bought) Riesling.







Bliss. BTW, the weather is hot - low 30s and high humidity, but we cope.

 

[RooFlyer]

In the afternoon, we motored around the corner so the experienced snorkellers and divers can look at a new reef growing on the lava flow I pictured earlier. Unfortunately visibility was low, so it was called off and the ship put on a swim off the stern of the vessel. I made do with a G&T on my balcony and my book, which I've nearly finished - with a week, and a couple of sea days, to go.





The dinner on the pool deck, and sunset behind the volcano. A brilliant day.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next morning, just of NW West Papua, we awoke to a tropical downpour, thunder and lightning. Our streak of good weather had been broken.







We were here to zodiac drive-by the Killi Killi waterfall, and to have a swim/dive/snorkel. These were cancelled due to the sea and lightning about.

Police came aboard - they had travelled 2.5 hours on this little boat.





When they returned to their own vessel, it was pretty rough



Then these guys appeared out of no-where.



Teo of them came aboard, dunno why (didn't bring fish)



While the third kept the boat stead with his leg and an oar.

 

[RooFlyer]

Anyway, we anchored near the falls which wouldn't really qualify as a highlight, except as our first landfall in West Papua.





The bush behind looked incredibly lush and thick

 

[RooFlyer]

In lieu of excursions, they organised additional talks and quizzes.

A bit about those, and the scheduled ones. Have been pretty good and varied - botany, zoology, usual whale talk (heard one every cruise). The geology one was 'OK' - it was given by a 'naturalist generalist', so not surprisingly a bunch of animals and plants crept into the story.

There is a special guest on board - Christine Ockrant. Some high profile French scholar, researcher and media presenter. She gave a talk on Indonesia, which was an interesting history, but the modern bit was more of a general perspective from Europe, rather than what we know in Australia. In fact, to her credit she acknowledged this a couple of times.

Usual shows in the lounge and theatre in the evening. I hardly ever go to these (usually too tired) but have been tempted by a couple here - Beatlemania the first night, and the other night, the classical pianist who was pretty good. Overhead camera on the hands:

Singing and piano playing in the lounge at afternoon teas pretty good, too. Teas are a selection of cakes, small sandwiches and other nice nibbles.



The Cruise Director (AKA social host) is Italian and a live wire, as they tend to be.

I also went to my very first trivia quiz (roped into a team as I was walking by). Actually 250 euros prize on this one, and we are hopeful.

Last night, there was the 'battle of the brains' quiz, where we were told "The officers had never been beaten". Right, that's a challenge, so we assembled in the lounge - about 8 teams of between 7 and 10 (we were 5) and the officers .... 14 !!!! The Officer team got booed good naturedly a number of times, and lots of banter. It was fun. Our team came third with 16/20. 2 teams with 17/20 - a French team and ... the Officers. Somehow the Officers declared the winners. More (fun) boos .

I guess the quiz questions (presented by the cruise Director) get recycled after a time, so at least some have probably been seen before.

Final pax count is about 65% non French and 35% French; can't complain about French bias in the cruise (unlike my Arctic cruise) and its all going very well.

I've even been found around and in the pool - which I NEVER do. It is hot I guess. Strange thing yesterday; lying by the pool and 2 French ladies talking up a storm - loudly. Wouldn't shut up. Finally, after about 20 mins, one of them left - but the other kept talking!. Not sure what's happening there, but she too left after 5 minutes more.

Pax are 95% very good. I usually have dinner with one or three of other singles on the pool deck (buffet) or sit with some French or Anglo couples I get on with, also on the pool deck. The a la carte restaurant is very slow. Single lady from Switzerland very confusing - has a perfect English accent! There is one horrible Aussie lady - a permanent malcontent and an American doing the usual American things.

Had dinner with a couple of the exped crew in the restaurant one night and with a couple of the officers another night.

Going well.

 

[RooFlyer]

Of course the weather can't get in the way of lunch! This time a delicious garlicy-tomatoey spaghetti with additional garlic oil on the side!







That evening pre-dinner (which became dinner for most) was 'cuisine of Bali'.







And that concludes another day of gluttony and booze on Le Soleil

 

[Flyfrequently]

Looks like you are enjoying yourself @RooFlyer