Athens and Iran (OZ, TK and QR business)

[RooFlyer]

Next stop, the Chehelsotoon Palace. Some interesting figures in the surrounding gardens:



Reminds me of what we were told by our guide. Much of modern life is incompatible with the strict teachings of Islam. For instance, student doctors having to dissect dead bodies would be a no-no. So there are 'dispensations' given out from on high to allow certain professions and teachings to proceed. I wonder if cosmology and the history of the universe is one?

The Chehelsotoon or Chehel Sotoun Palace/Pavilion was built in the 1600s and, with its surrounding Persian Garden, is (ho hum) a World Heritage site. Its name literally means 40 columns. there are 20 columns to the entrance porch, which, when reflected in the pool, make 40 .









More mirror-work in the porch. this is looking straight up at the ceiling:



Inside are paintings celebrating victories of the Persians over neighbours, or great meetings, in the 1500 and 1600s.

 

[RooFlyer]

Lunch at a nearby café was a soup with lamb and lentils (and fried onion on top )





Visit to a 'reputable' souvenir seller. there are copper plates, enamelled with intricate patterns. I couldn't tell the difference between the 'skilled craftsman' version and tacky souvenir shop versions.



Free time, so back to the Abassi hotel to relax, admire the gardens and have a cheesecake and mojito:







Dinner that evening was pizza at the 'Venetian Restaurant'.

 

[RooFlyer]

Farewell to Isfahan; today we drive to Tehran. Typical scenery between cities in Iran (at least south of the northern mountains):



Stop along the way at Natanz, better known in the west for the nuclear enrichment facility 30km out of the town! but locally it grows great pears, apparently. As is common in most cities and towns in Iran, the road is marked by photos of the martyrs who dies in the Iran-Iraq war:




We visited the 13th century tomb of Abd al Samd (pointy roof) and its adjacent mosque (minaret). Single minaret is a cue that its very old.





Inside, the tiles have been robbed out. Our guide helpfully told us that they were still able to be seen - in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (shuffling of feet by the Brits in the group ).



The Karkas mountains overlook the town, almost 4,000m. Up there, a 17th century Shah built a memorial for his favourite falcon.



Further on, we stopped at a roadside 'mini mall' for lunch. Several of us chose the burger and chips (not too flash). You could also buy spices, chokkies, jewellery, scents, clothes etc etc.

 

[RooFlyer]

Hello again, Tehran!



This time we are at the Tehran Grand Hotel, for the final 2 nights. Pretty good first impression at the lobby:



But overall I rated it a meh. Little English spoken at the desk, no table fans to compensate for the lack of aircon and just a bad feel. The room was ordinary; faced an internal space and a wall, so no ventilation at all. Usual hard bed and the room smelled of smoke. Breakfast was poor, with stale pastries.


A few of us went back to the 'artist's colony' in a park not far away, for dinner. The vegetarian restaurant there we tried when we first arrived was great - there was a more conventional restaurant at the other end. The menu:



Again, the prices are in Tomen, not Rials, so multiply by 10. I ordered the meatball, 14,900 tomen = A$5.50. Started of with the usual mojito.



Service both to take orders and to deliver meals was very slow and one of us had the wrong thing brought out, but called what he ordered (I think to cover the mistake) ? Meals came out one by one - the other two had just about finished by the time mine arrived. When I ordered 'meatball' I sorta assumed it was 'meatballs', but no, I was wrong. it was A meatball:



It was OK - sort of a round piece of meatloaf.

Anyway, we walked the few blocks back to the hotel - and some-one said they had passed a bakery along the way. Yowsers! I could do with some dessert!

Hells, bells, where has this place been all my life!!???





Armed with a couple of small pieces, we retired to the hotel.

 

[Milboo]

Who was the tour through? Am loving the pics and am giving serious consideration to a trip.

 

[JohnM]

Exodus: Journey to Persia

 

[RooFlyer]

First stop in the morning was the Golestan Palace. its a collection of buildings and palaces dating from the 1700s. One of the buildings - not very elaborate on the outside:



Tile-work, of course:





The main building is where the last Shah's coronation took place in 1967. He crowned himself, as no-one was above him to do the honours! Video here, from 7:00. (Oh, have the sound turned down a bit.) No photos allowed in the main palace, so here a few from the web. Very blingy, with lots of mirror-work and a reproduction of the Peacock Throne, the original of which we'll see later.

 

[RooFlyer]

After that was a few hours of free time. JohnM, me and one other decided to head across town in a taxi to the Azadi Tower which is sort of the symbol of Tehran. Of course navigating the Tehran traffic in a taxi rather than a large coach was a new experience



I'm pretty sure this was a statue of St George and the Dragon, but what its doing in Tehran I'm not quite sure!



Ayway, to the Azari Tower. It was built in 1971 to commemorate the 2,500 anniversary of the Persian empire and sits close to where the old airport expressway comes into the city. That airport is mainly used for domestic flights, so many international visitors don't get to see it now. Its sort of like the Opera House - it invites many photos from different angles:









The mountain off to the left had a sprinkling of snow overnight:



Thought this statue was terrific

 

[RooFlyer]

Back to the bazaar area for lunch and a look around.

Bought fruit and nuts for lunch from a stand like this - figs, pistachios, plums semi dried apricots. Nice (and very cheap) lunch; I paid with a note that was about A$0.30 over the amount, and left. The guy came up to me in the crowd with the change!



In one of the squares, there were a crowd of men, most with phones in their hands and some earpieces; a few guys up the front apparently calling for bids, which were answered in the crowd. Discovered that this was some sort of currency market; probably helping to set the important secondary FX market (no-one uses the official exchange rates!).



And so to the bazaar itself. This is the main entrance and I had the feeling of about to go down the gullet of an immense beast.



That was a pretty accurate description. The bazaar is immense, multi-branching and always seething with shoppers. I think even the toughest shoppers on AFF would run up the white flag




We found the gold area - no photos, but I didn't realise that when I took the first pic (discretely) and I asked permission for the second pic.




The very last activity of the day was a visit to the Iran Central Bank to view the National Jewel Collection. This was the only area in Iran where there were numerous guns obvious (and for obvious reasons!). Walk through the bank building to a side room, where tickets are bought and there are controlled lockers for all your gear - ALL your gear. You can keep your wallet and passport, but that's about it.

We were early - the second group to arrive (and I think you can only do this as part of a group). This was good planning, as by the time the groups started going through, there were probably 7 or 8 groups waiting. This is the low season - in high season our guide said there could be a couple of hundred people waiting, and they only allow abt 30 in at a time.

Out of the waiting room, into another building, more security, downstairs, along a bit and into an obvious vault. A large room with showcases along the sides and in the space - a stupendous collection of gems and jewellery, as befits the Persian empire. Buckets of diamonds, crowns, tiaras etc etc etc. Also the Peacock Throne. As people arrived and the various guides made their spiels, it became very loud.

With no cameras, no pics of course, but I copied these 2 out of the booklet you can buy. The first one is a world globe of gems - seas are emeralds, continents are rubies. Gold, diamonds and other gems for the frame. The Americas on the right.



The crown of the last shah dynasty.



Overall, not as big or grand a collection as the Russian State Jewel collection, but makes the British Crown jewels look like aunty Daisies' engagement ring.

 

[craven morehead]

An "immense beast" of a TR so far RooFLyer !!

 

[RooFlyer]

Blessedly coming to an end before tomorrow!!

We had a final group dinner in the hotel restaurant where we customarily showed our appreciation to the guide, drivers and assistant. This is the first group tour I've done, if not forever, then certainly in a very long time. I must say our guide earned his tips - sitting up front of the coach near him, I could see how he sometimes was frantically on the phone arranging and re-arranging visits (as well as juggling a small crisis at home at one point). The tour went very well, no cough-ups that were apparent and it was lucky we had no stand-out recalcitrant or 'always late' fellow travellers. (Actually, the only time some-one was actually late returning to the bus was ... me! when I mis-head the return time.) We had 2 bus drivers - one simply 'disappeared' overnight in Shiraz; we were told for some family reason, but never found out for sure; we hoped his tip reached him OK.

At JohnM's suggestion, we organised for an envelope for each tip-receiver. People simply put into the envelope (anonymously) what they wanted to tip each individual, although we did discuss between ourselves what a reasonable quantum would be. Annoyingly, although saying the amount is at the person's discretion etc etc, the Exodus trip notes then gave a rather high figure (I thought) for the tour leader - or rather two amounts - it was different in different versions of the trip notes. Anyway, if everyone gave what appeared to be the 'consensus' amounts, all would have done well, considering the apparent low cost of living in Iran.

JohnM speaks highly of Exodus tours and from this one experience, I had to agree that they give a good tour. There was a stuff-up with the visa-on-arrival that they organised, not critical and hopefully they have changed things after JohnM and I gave feedback on this.

Our Irish and British fellow travellers left on an early plane, but JohnM and I had late morning flights out (him on EK in F, me on QR in J). We shared a US$20 cab out to the airport.

IKA very sensibly have a separate terminal for Premium passengers (CIP = Commercially Important Persons), just a few minutes drive past the main terminal.



On entry you go to a desk where you hand over your passport and checked bags and then proceed into the terminal. All processing done while you wait for your flight; a bit un-nerving frankly. Sometimes they find you in the terminal to give you your passport back and your BP; with me it was after I proceeded to the gate for departure.

Upstairs is for First pax; Business on the ground floor; it took a couple of tries, but eventually they let me up there on JohnM's coat-tails.

Spacious with good views to the run-way.



There is a small a la carte area in the top centre of the pic (and a very friendly egg chef), tea, coffee, soft drinks & juices etc. Nice breakfast crepe for me:



Your choice of toilet types


After JohnM left, I explored downstairs. Very similar lay-out to upstairs, even a small a la carte area, but generally all a notch lower.



A souvenir area, where you could buy that last-minute carpet:



Always good to see the ride arriving. We were driven out to the plane in a van (I think F pax got a car??)

 

[JohnM]

We were driven out to the plane in a van (I think F pax got a car??)

There was a Volvo outside in front of a well-appointed Merc van but they parked it as I was ready and I went in the van. However, they did keep me separate from the J riff-raff .

 

[RooFlyer]

QR483 was a B777-300 in 2-2-2 configuration (same as the DOH-IKA flight in). A lunch-time flight.

Seat is OK; most things however tuck away behind your shoulder and there is only a small cubby-hole for feet. Wouldn't like this on an overnight flight.



Lemon refreshment on boarding (we are still on the ground, after all . The menu 'beverages' fortunately told only part of the story.



Normal QR wine selection (sorry about the rotation):









In the air and all's right with the world. Nice clear views across the country. Hollick's shiraz.



Started with the mezze, served as we flew over Isfahan





Main of fish sayadieh (spiced (not hot); was only OK) with a White Knight Californian Viognier, which was delicious.

 

[craven morehead]

There was a Volvo outside in front of a well-appointed Merc van but they parked it as I was ready and I went in the van. However, they did keep me separate from the J riff-raff .[/QUOTE

The dirty masses of unwashed heathen J riff raff , gotta watch 'em

 

[RooFlyer]

Arrival into Doha - incredibly dusty and un-appealing place.



I shouldn't dislike DOH, but I do. Its efficient, with plenty of amenities but I've probably spent too much time here. The huge business lounge is a novelty at first, but after a few visits (like, abt 10 ) its just another lounge. Good showers (although long wait times in the evening). I had about 7 hours to kill, so did some study related stuff for a while, and then some book research. After a while it dawned on me that there was no self serve booze in the lounge - you have to go and sit down at one of the restaurants, so I did. Didn't want anything to eat, as the flight was a dinner one.



Finally, boarding, which was done efficiently. A380 in a 1-2-1 config in business. I was in a single by the LH window, mid cabin.



I like the QR J seats - comfortable to sit in, plenty of room to put stuff (amazing that some airline long haul J seats - like LH - have virtually no storage space); legroom is good of course; feet go into a cubby hole but its large enough to turn your feet in. Amenity kit was a bit more than basic, and in an unusual semi-hard case. PJs of course.



I made a voice note that the crew seemed very disorganised before the doors closed; starting to give out things, then stopping to do something; some-one else takes over and I see that a row or 2 got missed. This in both aisles.

Off on time; the menus:



Wine list was the same as the last leg.

I had the smoked salmon roulade and the grilled beef, and same wines as the last leg. meal was 'workmanlike' for business, without being memorable.



After some 'gourmet' ice-cream, I repaired to the bar.



Not a good shot, unfortunately (it was too confined to start taking pics of people) but seating on both sides and stand-up available as well. Some nice snacks on the bar and some good conversations with fellow travellers. A great place to while away an hour or so before bed.

Arrived MEL on time - straight through SmartGate, bag appeared after abt 5 mins at the carousel, declared my Iranian nougat (with pistachios) and baklava, and stamped straight through . probably no more than 20 mins from de-boarding to being land side. May have been less.

So .. that's it for another TR. Athens - sort of takes care of itself. Iran - a definite 'must see'. Easy to get to and visa-on-arrival is easy for Aussies. Exodus trip was very good and well paced. It was good to spend a few days travelling down the east side of the loop before getting to Isfahan and Shiraz, as it acclimatises you to the country and customs before the big highlights. Main negative were the hotels, with mostly hard beds, and often single; plus no air con where it was warm and stuffy. The people are very friendly and the history is outstanding. Scenery is a bit monotonous - all desert; north of Tehran on the Caspian Sea coast its green and lush, apparently. I had no 'security' concerns either from a 'international baddies' point of view or local hoodlums when walking around Tehran at night.

 

[JohnM]

I just noticed this in Lonely Planet's 'Where to Go and When' before I wrap it as a Christmas gift:

"The land once called Persia is where misconceptions come to die."

So true...

 

[VPS]

Just read the whole TR in one go after just reading @JohnM 's as well. Fantastic photos (what camera do you use) and wonderful commentary so thank you very much. Iran is always a place I've wanted to visit but can't convince anyone to go with me.

Oh and the tiles were just amazing and the mirrored glass - they've inspired me to get moving and tile my back cement steps

Well done and thank you

 

[JohnM]

Iran is always a place I've wanted to visit but can't convince anyone to go with me.

Just do what I do - go by yourself (except when RF drops in, of course) .

One of the women in our group had gone by herself because her husband wanted to stay home.

 

[Major]

Another fantastic TR. Many thanks for sharing

 

[RooFlyer]

Fantastic photos (what camera do you use

Its a Sony DSC HX90V; fits in my pocket.

I agree with JohnM; don't let lack of known company stop you going; in our group of 11, there were 5 singles.