An Africa odyssey

JohnM

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Tomorrow well over 18 months of planning comes to fruition with the start of a near seven-week odyssey to Africa when PJM and I jump on the bird PER-SYD before clambering aboard QF63 SYD-JNB on Thursday.

It will come as no surprise that we cancelled original flight plans via the Middle East for alternatives in the southern hemisphere.

A bummer, as I had scored reward flights in J on CX PER-HKG and EK HKG-DXB-NBO.

We were going to have a night in Hong Kong and two nights in Dubai on the way to Nairobi, our Africa kick-off destination before wending our way to finish at Cape Town.

I had bought revenue J on QR CPT-DOH-PER, with a night in Doha for the return, using the VA/QR partnership to be in Q-Suites DOH-PER at a sensible time of day, instead of the QR midnight departure out of DOH to PER.

My attempt to treat PJM was thwarted.

All those flights were cancelled with the only penalty being 2 x 6,000 points for the rewards booking.

C’est la vie.

For flights into and out of Africa, what was to be - and what it now is:

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QF PER-SYD-JNB and return CPT-xJNB(codeshare on Z4)-xSYD-PER.

PER-SYD is reward Y, which was going to be more tolerable in an A330, but – you guessed it – down-gauged to a maggot. We’ll just have to suck that up.

SYD-JNB is in W (bought as T), which should be tolerable given the flight departs at 0935 and chases the sun to arrive at 1635 in JNB. We’ll have two nights in JNB before heading to NBO on KQ.

Return from JNB-xSYD-PER is QF revenue J (C bucket). The codeshare sector CPT-JNB booked into whY on an E190, so tolerable two-abreast seating for that short flight.

My brother and SIL and another couple make up the rest of our travel group. The others were originally booked PER-DXB-NBO, with a one-night stopover in DXB and joining us there, and then CPT-xDXB-PER on EK.

In changing, they opted to fly into Africa SA J PER-xJNB-NBO. The A340 SA flight out of PER leaves at 2350. I’ve done it once before on a J reward years ago when QF and SA code shared. It’s OK, but very old-school J seating. Not now as a revenue flight, thanks.

The others will lob into JNB early morning and make the connection to the same KQ JNB-NBO flight as us.

For the return, my brother and SIL are doing what PJM and I are doing with QF; our friends have opted to go via Mauritius on MK.

OK, that covers the saga of getting into and out of Africa – apart from the surprisingly onerous process of obtaining visas for Kenya and Tanzania. I don’t recall anything like it when I last went there about 12 years ago.

Kenya wanted a day-by-day itinerary and uploaded copies of flight tickets. It’s time-consuming when on a fairly lengthy trip and where we will be going in and out several times. Once done, though, the approval was quite quick, although my brother and SIL ran into problems with the Kenya website saying their visas had been approved, but not receiving the email with them attached – apparently not an unusual problem.

The visas can’t be downloaded from the website, so failed email delivery means they need to be chased up by clunkily-directed email or WhatsApp messages. WhatsApp ended up being the go.

Tanzania was not as onerous to fill in, but the application then disappears into limbo. They say processing time takes 10 days, and it was every bit of that. I think they meant 10 business days, but they don’t say that.

For such major tourism countries, the painful nature of their visa application processes surprised me.

Within Africa, we concentrate on Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania before moving to locations in the Victoria Falls region – which takes in Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, before finishing with a few days in Cape Town and Stellenbosch.

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PJM has been to Morocco, but not to ‘real’ Africa. One of the key things that I particularly wanted to organise was a night at the famed Giraffe Manor (https://www.thesafaricollection.com/properties/giraffe-manor/) in Nairobi. Even 18 months ahead, with no 2026 prices yet published, it was filling fast – and of course August is peak season with the migration on the plains.

All the East Africa activities were organised through Bench Africa in Sydney, which I’ve previously used for aerial safaris in 2013 and 2014 (Aerial safari in Kenya and gorilla trek in Rwanda

JohnM's E Africa aerial safari).

Once I had secured three of the most desirable rooms, I began organising a series of other activities and safaris around that date.

Chronologically, here is the plan (ignoring PJM and my two nights in Jo’burg.):


Here’s what it looks like on the map:

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That should keep us amused…

As usual, most of the TR will be done on return.
 
Odyssey is the right word!
.


Would be interested if you can relay any comments you can pass on about that. I've got a stack of Aeroplan points for PER-MRU-PER (and Reunion) but am hesitating.
If flying MK, allow plenty of buffer time as their Per -Mru and vv flights are often delayed or even cancelled...i think they only have 2 aurcraft that fly that route. And good luck getting compenstated for hotels etc. It took me 3 months of emailing them. I wont be rushing to fly them again!
 
Wow sounds like a fantastic trip! I will look forward to reading all about it.
Safe travels.
 
Just coming to the end of the Kenya Northern Circuit tour. No time to post anything as we’ve been non-stop busy.

Wildlife sightings have been excellent.

Watched lions gnawing on a felled buffalo and one pair mating this morning, just had lunch and about to go on another game drive in Ol Pejeta reserve (famed for rhinos) which sits right on the equator.

Back to Nairobi in the morning and then to Rwanda on Monday.

Just another day in Africa…🙂😎
 
Righto, we arrived home two weeks ago, and I’ve been flat out since then, but can now get back to the TR.

In a jam-packed itinerary, everything went according to plan, and a great time was had by all. Working through an enormous number of photos is going to be a mission.

I’ll tackle the TR on a day-by-day basis and rely on pictures to do most of the talking. Inevitably, there will be repetition of animal photos in different locations.

A nightcap at SYD Rydges after lobbing in from PER, to set the scene for the next seven weeks.

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SYD-JNB in W was tolerable given its daylight timing. Only marred slightly by one of the FAs being rather sour.

The ride was on OQA. Pretty much the textbook route, overflying the Kerguelen Islands. I have been much further south on previous trips.

As depicted on the IFE and by TripWaffle:

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We stayed near JNB and the next day did an organised tour of Soweto and Johannesburg.

Key sights were the Constitution Hill Human Rights Precinct in Johannesburg (Constitution Hill, Johannesburg - Wikipedia), Mandela House (Mandela House - Wikipedia) and memorials to the Soweto uprising in 1976 (Soweto uprising - Wikipedia) in Soweto - arguably the trigger that ultimately brought about the downfall of apartheid, and the Apartheid Museum (Apartheid Museum - Wikipedia). A full day, very informative and recommended.

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Mandela spent only a brief period at this prison, in a separate cell, before being incarcerated at Robben Island, offshore from Cape Town.

The glass towers signify the original Awaiting Trial buildings that were demolished for the construction of the Constitutional Court.

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Hollard Street in downtown Johannesburg is the historical financial and corporate heart of South Africa’s industry. Gandhi Square is nearby.

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Soweto is a very mixed area in terms of housing. Perhaps contrary to popular belief, it is not entirely a shanty town. Rather, it is stratified into about three ‘levels’, for want of a better word, prosperity and housing. Socially, our guide described a mutual co-existence and economic interaction between those strata. Gradually, the shanties and old miners’ barracks are being replaced by new housing.

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Vilakazi Street in Soweto, the site of Mandela House and Desmond Tutu’s residence (still occupied by family and not a museum) is, inevitably, a tourist zoo. Despite that, a visit is recommended. It’s famed as the only street in the world where two Nobel Laureates lived.

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The Apartheid Museum is comprehensive, well done and very informative.

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Next morning it was back to JNB to meet up with the others who had flown in overnight PER-JNB on SA, and then to fly to NBO with KQ.

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View of Kilimanjaro on the way and our pickup at NBO to take us to our hotel for two nights. The first of many safari vehicles…

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Hollard Street in downtown Johannesburg is the historical financial and corporate heart of South Africa’s industry. Gandhi Square is nearby.

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Soweto is a very mixed area in terms of housing. Perhaps contrary to popular belief, it is not entirely a shanty town. Rather, it is stratified into about three ‘levels’, for want of a better word, prosperity and housing. Socially, our guide described a mutual co-existence and economic interaction between those strata. Gradually, the shanties and old miners’ barracks are being replaced by new housing.

View attachment 521838

Vilakazi Street in Soweto, the site of Mandela House and Desmond Tutu’s residence (still occupied by family and not a museum) is, inevitably, a tourist zoo. Despite that, a visit is recommended. It’s famed as the only street in the world where two Nobel Laureates lived.

View attachment 521839View attachment 521840View attachment 521841

The Apartheid Museum is comprehensive, well done and very informative.

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Next morning it was back to JNB to meet up with the others who had flown in overnight PER-JNB on SA, and then to fly to NBO with KQ.

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View of Kilimanjaro on the way and our pickup at NBO to take us to our hotel for two nights. The first of many safari vehicles…

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Enjoyed visiting those places some years back.

Signing on to this TR 🌍✈️🥂🙏
 
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Next day was a full-day tour in Nairobi National Park (Nairobi National Park - Wikipedia). I’ve been to Nairobi before but always moved out to regional areas the next day. I was keen to scope the park and we not to be disappointed. The location of a park with classic African wildlife against a city backdrop is quite wonderful.

Also included in the full day outing was a visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Nursery (Sheldrick Wildlife Trust - Wikipedia) and the Giraffe Centre (Giraffe Centre - Wikipedia).

PJM was especially keen to see a giraffe in the wild. She was thrilled when, just a few minutes into the park, the first animal spotted was a giraffe.

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Then hippos in a pond, Egyptian goose, crested crane, spiky acacia and on and on. The Mombasa-Nairobi railway runs through the park, well elevated. A very cloudy day, so not the best for photography.

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Two male and one female rhino. That combination caused a bit of biffo between the males very close to the vehicle that was fun to watch.

The interloper looked to be the larger male by mass, but the other male had a much larger horn and at each foray drove off the usurper, squealing as he backed off.

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