A short(ish) trip to Japan

ShelleyB

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Nov 12, 2022
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154
We're now about T-12 days away from our next trip, and I thought I'd try another Trip Report, as I quite enjoyed doing the last one.

Late last year we had some points to spare, and having enjoyed our first trip to Japan in 2023 so immensely, were hoping to go again this year. As ShelleyB-son is in his last year of primary school, we weren't very keen on booking during term time, in case he missed some important event. Therefore knowing we'd be stuck looking at school holiday time, and looking for points redemptions for 3 people, we were not very hopeful. However, amazingly China Airlines at this time last year were regularly offering 3-4 seats in J which were being released at around 11am like clockwork. So I duly snaffled 3 J seats for our departure date MEL-TPE-KIX. We were only sort of lucky on the return leg - would have liked to depart from Fukuoka but nothing available. So instead we are departing from Tokyo. Also no flights available back to MEL on points, so the return leg is NRT-TPE-BNE with revenue flights home (in Y) from BNE. Still very happy with the value, as taxes and the revenue flight added up to around $2000 (for 3 people) whereas the equivalent cost of flights would have come to nearly $18000.

The (over?)-planner that I am, fairly soon after booking flights had an approximate plan in place which hasn't really varied. And although I haven't made a lot of trips to Japan, what little experience I have has led me to believe it's not a place for procrastinators if you want good hotels at a good price, particularly as we need triple rooms, which are not so common in Japan. And at least one of the trains we intended to take (the Hida Wide View from Nagoya to Takayama) is very popular so we've made sure to book that too. We've been able to book the trains in advance directly on the JR West website, and we'll be able to pick up them once we are there. Sadly neither the JR pass, or any regional passes, worked out cheaper than simply booking the exact trains we need.

So here's what our plan looks like:

MEL-TPE (CI58) - KIX (CI156) (3 hour transit in TPE)
Stay in Osaka 2 nights at the Art Hotel Osaka Bay Tower. One day given to a Universal Studios visit (natch with an 11yo on the trip)
Train to Nagoya (Tokaido Shinkansen), then the Hida Wide View express train to Takayama. There is actually a Hida Wide View that goes directly from Osaka, but it only runs once a day just after 8am, which felt unnecessarily early. There are hourly departures from Nagoya.
Stay in Takayama 3 nights at the Mecure Hida Takayama. Plan to visit Kamikochi one day and Shinhotaka Ropeway another day using the local bus system (Nohi Bus) to get around. The bus goes everywhere we need and you can't drive to Kamikochi anyway, as they use a park and ride system.
From Takayama we'll take the express bus to Kanazawa (already booked as it's also popular), where will stay 2 nights at the Square Hotel.
And finally from Kanazawa we'll take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tokyo where we'll stay 2 nights at the Mitsui Garden Hotel. We have been to Tokyo previously, but still plenty left to do and see of course.
Then home NRT-MEL (CI105)-BNE (CI53). (Just under a 3 hour transit in TPE). Then given it's a separate ticket have allowed a good amount of time to transit in BNE for our trip to MEL (almost 4 hours), but I do have Qantas Club membership courtesy of Points Club Plus so at least we have somewhere relatively comfortable to pass the time.

So a shortish visit necessitated by the tyranny of school holidays, but when flights are not super-long (and are in J) and importantly there's no jet-lag inducing time difference, a short visit is still worth it.

Restaurant recommendations gratefully accepted. Mr ShelleyB and I are not at all fussy eaters, but ShelleyB-son can be a bit picky. Of course he loves fried chicken (and would eat Lawson's chicken for all meals if allowed) and he does love ramen, in other respects he is not yet as adventurous as we'd like. So ramen bars, yakitori, gyoza all work well. In Takayama we of course plan to enjoy Hida beef (hopefully more than once).
 
We stayed two weeks ago at Mitsui Garden Kyobashi and location was excellent. But may not be the same hotel? We walked to the limousine bus depot from hotel, caught bus to Haneda. Highly recommend, and that was at the end of 9 weeks in Europe. Around Tokyo station there are thousands of restaurants, many underground, handy if really hot or wet.
 
We're now about T-12 days away from our next trip, and I thought I'd try another Trip Report, as I quite enjoyed doing the last one.

Late last year we had some points to spare, and having enjoyed our first trip to Japan in 2023 so immensely, were hoping to go again this year. As ShelleyB-son is in his last year of primary school, we weren't very keen on booking during term time, in case he missed some important event. Therefore knowing we'd be stuck looking at school holiday time, and looking for points redemptions for 3 people, we were not very hopeful. However, amazingly China Airlines at this time last year were regularly offering 3-4 seats in J which were being released at around 11am like clockwork. So I duly snaffled 3 J seats for our departure date MEL-TPE-KIX. We were only sort of lucky on the return leg - would have liked to depart from Fukuoka but nothing available. So instead we are departing from Tokyo. Also no flights available back to MEL on points, so the return leg is NRT-TPE-BNE with revenue flights home (in Y) from BNE. Still very happy with the value, as taxes and the revenue flight added up to around $2000 (for 3 people) whereas the equivalent cost of flights would have come to nearly $18000.

The (over?)-planner that I am, fairly soon after booking flights had an approximate plan in place which hasn't really varied. And although I haven't made a lot of trips to Japan, what little experience I have has led me to believe it's not a place for procrastinators if you want good hotels at a good price, particularly as we need triple rooms, which are not so common in Japan. And at least one of the trains we intended to take (the Hida Wide View from Nagoya to Takayama) is very popular so we've made sure to book that too. We've been able to book the trains in advance directly on the JR West website, and we'll be able to pick up them once we are there. Sadly neither the JR pass, or any regional passes, worked out cheaper than simply booking the exact trains we need.

So here's what our plan looks like:

MEL-TPE (CI58) - KIX (CI156) (3 hour transit in TPE)
Stay in Osaka 2 nights at the Art Hotel Osaka Bay Tower. One day given to a Universal Studios visit (natch with an 11yo on the trip)
Train to Nagoya (Tokaido Shinkansen), then the Hida Wide View express train to Takayama. There is actually a Hida Wide View that goes directly from Osaka, but it only runs once a day just after 8am, which felt unnecessarily early. There are hourly departures from Nagoya.
Stay in Takayama 3 nights at the Mecure Hida Takayama. Plan to visit Kamikochi one day and Shinhotaka Ropeway another day using the local bus system (Nohi Bus) to get around. The bus goes everywhere we need and you can't drive to Kamikochi anyway, as they use a park and ride system.
From Takayama we'll take the express bus to Kanazawa (already booked as it's also popular), where will stay 2 nights at the Square Hotel.
And finally from Kanazawa we'll take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tokyo where we'll stay 2 nights at the Mitsui Garden Hotel. We have been to Tokyo previously, but still plenty left to do and see of course.
Then home NRT-MEL (CI105)-BNE (CI53). (Just under a 3 hour transit in TPE). Then given it's a separate ticket have allowed a good amount of time to transit in BNE for our trip to MEL (almost 4 hours), but I do have Qantas Club membership courtesy of Points Club Plus so at least we have somewhere relatively comfortable to pass the time.

So a shortish visit necessitated by the tyranny of school holidays, but when flights are not super-long (and are in J) and importantly there's no jet-lag inducing time difference, a short visit is still worth it.

Restaurant recommendations gratefully accepted. Mr ShelleyB and I are not at all fussy eaters, but ShelleyB-son can be a bit picky. Of course he loves fried chicken (and would eat Lawson's chicken for all meals if allowed) and he does love ramen, in other respects he is not yet as adventurous as we'd like. So ramen bars, yakitori, gyoza all work well. In Takayama we of course plan to enjoy Hida beef (hopefully more than once).
Fuwari in Kanazawa - pics here.
 
We stayed two weeks ago at Mitsui Garden Kyobashi and location was excellent. But may not be the same hotel? We walked to the limousine bus depot from hotel, caught bus to Haneda. Highly recommend, and that was at the end of 9 weeks in Europe. Around Tokyo station there are thousands of restaurants, many underground, handy if really hot or wet.
Sorry yes it’s the Kyobashi one, as of course there are plenty in the Mitsui Garden chain.
 
Took this train in late March this year...views were a bit disappointing. The bus trip between Takayama and Kanazawa was more scenic imo
That’s a shame but we have to get from Osaka to Takayama somehow and even if the scenery isn’t showstopping I am sure the train will still be pleasant. And as we are also doing the bus it should be best of both worlds.
 
I am sure masterShelleyB son would love this place. And if either of the grown ups are into craft beer or gin so much the better.


It is in the building above Kanazawa station. To eat their main menu is pizza and they were pretty good but also have things like fried chicken and fish and chips. can be busy.
Also in Kanazawa there are a few restaurants in the Nearby Forus building next to the Station.
 
I cannot give many recommendation on places to eat as we just normally wing it and go to a restaurant that we find by walking around. We often take photos of the food but often forget to take down the details of the actual establishment. Major rail stations and shopping centres have areas that have a variety of restaurants/ eating places. Normally most of the food is good, for restaurants that are well known or popular with locals these can be hard to get into as a walk up.

On another note it looks like you only are staying for 9 nights from arrival to departure. Without knowing your plans I think you may have 1 to many cities in your itinerary. Have you taken into account time between transferring between airports, Shinkansen/local lines etc. when travelling with luggage and a 9 year old. I will admit I have never pre-booked Shinkansen tickets and have used the JR pass and if not using a JR Pass as on our last trip (April 2024) we just purchased Shinkansen tickets as required, it was still cheaper than the pass (after the price increase). We also have a combination of Suica, PASMO and ICOCA which we just recharge as required for local lines and use them at 7/11, Lawson's etc.

Finally I have travelled on the Hida Wide View both from Nagoya to Takayama and from Toyama-Takayama-Nagoya I quite like the train and views.
 
I cannot give many recommendation on places to eat as we just normally wing it and go to a restaurant that we find by walking around. We often take photos of the food but often forget to take down the details of the actual establishment. Major rail stations and shopping centres have areas that have a variety of restaurants/ eating places. Normally most of the food is good, for restaurants that are well known or popular with locals these can be hard to get into as a walk up.

On another note it looks like you only are staying for 9 nights from arrival to departure. Without knowing your plans I think you may have 1 to many cities in your itinerary. Have you taken into account time between transferring between airports, Shinkansen/local lines etc. when travelling with luggage and a 9 year old. I will admit I have never pre-booked Shinkansen tickets and have used the JR pass and if not using a JR Pass as on our last trip (April 2024) we just purchased Shinkansen tickets as required, it was still cheaper than the pass (after the price increase). We also have a combination of Suica, PASMO and ICOCA which we just recharge as required for local lines and use them at 7/11, Lawson's etc.

Finally I have travelled on the Hida Wide View both from Nagoya to Takayama and from Toyama-Takayama-Nagoya I quite like the train and views.
Thanks Matt. I am not worried by the itinerary. There’s only one inbound transfer and we arrive around lunch. So yes it’s only 36 hours in Osaka but we’ve been there before and we’re only there really for Universal studios on this visit. ShelleyB-son is a very experienced traveller, manages his own luggage and we always travel light. Our last trip through Sweden, Zanzibar and Tanzania for 6 weeks, the adults had around 14kg each and ShelleyB-son had 8kg.

I agree the Shinkansen purchases were not strictly necessary but the Hida Wide view sells out, so I figured I may as well purchase all tickets as not. It’s one less thing to do when on the ground, so we can just concentrate on enjoying the travel.

And yes we too normally just see what takes our fancy when eating out, but there’s also something to be said for seeing what others have enjoyed. We’ve always been happy to queue and only in Tokyo have we missed out on the popular ramen places when queues have closed early. One of the places we tried to get in last trip now accepts reservations one week ahead (Ginza Hachigou) so I have a note in my calendar to remind me to book. This place had a Michelin star for ages, although lost it in the last round. But still has, by all reports, amazing ramen. And ramen is something even ShelleyB-son is enthusiastic about. Cross fingers I am quick enough on the system to get a reservation.
 
We stayed two weeks ago at Mitsui Garden Kyobashi and location was excellent. But may not be the same hotel? We walked to the limousine bus depot from hotel, caught bus to Haneda. Highly recommend, and that was at the end of 9 weeks in Europe. Around Tokyo station there are thousands of restaurants, many underground, handy if really hot or wet.
A friend and I stayed there a few years back - great location and good size room. When with MrLtL we are usually on the other side of the station often at the Tokyo Station Hotel.
Loved Takyama in the times have been there (some nice wood products) and enjoyed the train trip there and then onto Kanazawa.
Have a great time ShelleyB.
 
The Wide View Hida sells out?? Damn this new post covid Japan is getting more and more scary by the day!
Well this was when I last took it a few years ago ( I didn't even book or anything, just jumped onto the non reserved car...)

P2174987.JPG
 
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The Wide View Hida sells out?? Damn this new post covid Japan is getting more and more scary by the day!
Well this was when I last took it a few years ago ( I didn't even book or anything, just jumped onto the non reserved car...)

View attachment 407848
I have certainly heard it sells out these days, particularly on weekends (which is when we are travelling). I just had a quick look at the specific train I have booked and probably around half the seats are already sold, with 11 days to go before travel. So it might be ok or it might not, but with 3 of us travelling I don't like to take chances. Online booking through JR West is really easy, there's no extra charges for doing so, and can just collect at a ticket machine. When plans are already firm, I don't see any reason to delay.
 
I have certainly heard it sells out these days, particularly on weekends (which is when we are travelling). I just had a quick look at the specific train I have booked and probably around half the seats are already sold, with 11 days to go before travel. So it might be ok or it might not, but with 3 of us travelling I don't like to take chances. Online booking through JR West is really easy, there's no extra charges for doing so, and can just collect at a ticket machine. When plans are already firm, I don't see any reason to delay.
Oh it's surely a good idea to book when your plans are fixed.
I'm just shocked at how things are these days. And that's why people don't know half of the places on my route....
 
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