I was there two years ago just after they finally came out of lockdown, had Nord and ExpressVPN, but gave up on hotel wifi completely. I'd intended to buy a local esim for my phone to have a local number (makes life with alipay etc. a whole lot easier, or at least did then), but hadn't done my research and didn't realise you can't get local esims within china, only physical ones - I still had a Telstra physical one at that point and couldn't switch once I was there. I used Nomad for my data esim but it was on I think China Mobile from memory, had to use VPNs, constantly switching servers doing the whackamole thing. Didn't know about the outside gateway thing, filing that one away now.