Iceland in Winter by ferry and plane

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I had been staying at Frederikshavn in northern Denmark where I spent a couple of days and mad a day trip up to Skagan (pronounced ‘Skain’) at the northernmost tip of the country. This was in winter, mid-January, and the place was very quiet, almost devoid of other tourists. I could imagine it bustling with families and happy swimmers in summer. In winter, though, it had a slightly melancholy beauty, the many crumbing WW2 German fortifications matching nicely the stormy seas and bare, icy tree. It was a cold and windy place, but a walk from the station up to Grenen, the pebbly finger of land at the top of Denmark.

Before that Aalborg had been nondescript, though I only passed through from the airport where SAS had lost my bag connecting from HEL, to the station where I caught a train to Frederikshavn to the east. My bag arrived the next day, delivered to the very cosy Park Hotel. My room there was a good size and the whole place had a great character, decorated throughout in a kind of ornate, elegant country-style. Recommended if you ever need to spend a night in Frederikshavn.

Park Hotel.jpg

I had decided to take the ferry to Iceland. It would take a few days, but seemed like an interesting way to go. There is only one ferry, called the Norrona. It goes from Hirtshals in north west Denmark to Torshavn in the Faroe Islands before continuing on to Seyðisfjörður on Iceland’s east coast.

From Hirtshals railway station there are covered walkways taking you to ferry wharfs. These are not the ones for the Smyrill Line and the Norrona ferry. I should have gotten a taxi, but had arrived very early and so decided to walk. It is a long walk through snowy industrial streets dragging a suitcase through the port district. There was only one other passenger arriving on foot so the waiting area was very quiet. It was also very spartan, just two little vending machines for sustenance.

Photos of Hirtshals port:

Hirtshals station.jpgAt hirtshals port.jpgbunker.jpgNorrona at Hirtshals.jpg

In winter it seems the main function of the ferry is to move cargo rather than people. Maybe 80 cars or so drove on but loads of cargo. They take the trailers of trucks but leave the cabins and drivers behind, the trailers are used like containers. The boat was quiet and many of the distractions were closed. The cinema was out of action as were two of the three restaurants. There weren’t enough passengers or staff. The poker machines were all open and so was the duty-free shop.

I was being reckless with money so took the most expensive cabin, called “The Suite”. Actually, in winter it is cheaper so wasn’t too bad for three nights, 811 Euro including all main meals. The suite had three rooms plus a huge ensuite, a big tv that worked and fast wifi. It was a good place to get some work done.

When booking online for this ferry you can pre-pay for meals at a discount. If travelling in winter, don’t bother: the website will sell you meals in any of the restaurants on board, even though they will probably be closed. Just see what’s available when you sail.
 
Long snowy walk through the port. A taxi would probably have been a better option!

long walk.jpg

"The Suite" aboard the Norrona ferry from Denmark to Iceland. For a LOT less there are shared rooms of 9 bunks below the waterline and other options in between, but in winter the price of even the best cabin was ok.

cabin.jpgCabin view 2.jpgcabin 3.jpgcabin 4.jpg

Next: Torshavn and crossing to Iceland.
 
Me too. Looks very interesting!
 
Part 2: To Torshavn, Faro Islands.

The MS Norrona is operated by Smyrill Line, a Faroese shipping company. According to them she can take 1,482 passengers and there is space for 800 cars. Her cargo capacity is 3,250 tonnes. From Hirtshals in Denmark she sails first overnight to Torshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands. During the night we passed the Shetland Islands, just a few lights in the frosty distance.

The first night was uneventful for me: dinner in the canteen, the only food outlet open due to low passenger numbers. There seemed to be very few passengers aboard. Many of them gathered in the bar for the evening and listened to a singer with a guitar. I didn’t join them, as I’m not a fan of singers with guitars doing ordinary cover-versions of boring songs! I heard later that one of the passengers tried to start a drunken fight with the bar tender.
The next morning we arrived at Torshavn. Of course it is dark until mid-morning so it seemed very early. Even the midday sun was like late afternoon, but with an unusually beautiful quality to the light. There ferry stops for about 9 hours in Torshavn in summer, and about 7 hours in winter. Enough time to wander around the town. Of course you could also stay there and wait a week for the next ferry or fly on to your next destination. I wasn’t stopping this time, but it did look like it would be superb country for hiking and so on, especially in summer.

Torshavn was a mixture of charming and bleak. Brightly-coloured houses, many with living turf roofs. Also lots of warehouses and light industrial buildings around the docks. It is a pretty treeless place, though I did find a wooded park during my wanderings. It was chilly but not too bad. The town had few pedestrians and those I passed tended to look at me a bit suspiciously. There was a lot of traffic on the main roads. There were quite a few restaurants but at lunchtime they were all closed. In fact hardly any shops were open at all. It was mid-week.

Norrona 3.jpgTorshavn1.jpgTorshavn2.jpgTorshavn3.jpgtorshavn4.jpg

I bought a book from a bookshop and a couple of souvenirs from a tourist info centre and took lots of photos with the fervor of someone who can’t be sure they will ever return to a marvellous place again. I also stocked up on a few things to eat and drink from a supermarket. Later that turned out to have been a good idea.
After lunch, also from the supermarket, it was back to the ferry for the onward journey to Iceland. For this leg of the trip the Norrona was almost deserted. It can take 1,482 passengers, but there were only 6 of us on board.
 
Sailing through the Faroes en route to Iceland, views from the deserted ship

Norrona 5.jpg Faroe6.jpg Faroe7.jpg

Would be a nice spot for a drink in summer. This day it was more like the Overlook Hotel in The Shining.
Norrona 2.jpg Norrona 4.jpg
 
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Certainly looks cold!
It certainly was chilly, though maybe not quite as bad as it looks. A week or two later is was -21 when I arrived at Helsinki. That felt cold.

The outside looks like it's more interesting than the inside !


Cheers

I think you are right, some stunning landscapes. Inside became more interesting in the dark (of which there was a lot) and out at sea.

Thanks all for the feedback. Will try to post the next installment soon, Eastern Iceland.

24.
 
It's amazing that communities exist in such extreme climates. Enjoying the scenery, albeit from an armchair in a warm lounge room.
And to think that mainlanders consider Tasmania too cold!
 
Winter provides a whole new perspective in those Northern towns and landscapes
 
Part 3: Faroes to Seydisfjordur

For this leg of the journey the ferry, MS Norrona, was almost empty. There were only five other passengers on board besides me. One was an English ex-sailor who had big plans for Iceland. Another was an Icelander who restored wooden boats in Denmark. A third was a Pole who was bringing and expensive car to sell. There was also a backpacking couple who I only saw when they disembarked. I got to know the other three over drinks in the closed bar. Everything was now closed, except for the duty free shop. The drinks were takeaway duty free beers. The boat-builder and the car-runner found their way into the PA system and music, and a couple of hours of increasingly excruciating, drunken karaoke ensued. This was brought to a merciful end when some of the crew came and shut things down. Some quieter drinks followed before everyone turned in. The next morning we’d be arriving at the eastern Iceland port of Seydisfjordur.

The night was very cold outside but not rough. Sadly I didn’t see any northern lights despite trying. It is supposed to be a good spot for viewing them, but nothing that night nor the next.

In the pre-dawn gloom, just before 9am, the Norrona slipped quietly down a long fjord, flanked on each side by towering icy cliffs, toward the few twinkling lights of Seydisfjordur. An announcement came over the pa to get out of the cabins and leave via the vehicle ramp (there not being enough passengers to bother with the gangway), and that was that. I didn’t see any more crew until, after 15 or so minutes of searching, I found my way down through the deserted ship to the equally empty car decks. It wasn’t really clear how to get out, but after another 10-minute wait one of the steel walls began to groan and lurch opening up, first a crack, and then wide. It revealed a chilly early-morning snowscape outside. Iceland!

The two backpackers and I walked out onto the dock, dodging trailers that were being unloaded from somewhere inside the ferry. Eventually we were met by an immigration man who welcomed us, asked us where we were headed and if we needed anything. There was a small waiting area with a closed shop and a vending machine. I left the backpackers there and began the short walk through the snow to my hotel for that night.

Last look at the Faroes:
Faroe10.jpg Faroe11.jpg Faroe12.jpg Faroe13.jpg

First glimpse of Iceland:

Faroe14.jpg
 
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Arrival at Seydisfjordur:

Seydis2.jpg

Deserted car deck. Somewhere they had loads of trailers hidden away.
seydis3.jpg

seydis4.jpg

seydis5.jpg

seydis6.jpg
 
Seydis1.jpg

The ferry terminal at Seydisfjordur. There isn't much there. There is a supermarket a 5-10 minute walk away.
seydis7.jpg

seydis8.jpg
 
I am really enjoying the read & the great photos. Certainly seems like you would need to enjoy your own company to travel during that time of year
 
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