Road trip report -Woomera.

drron

Veteran Member
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Jul 4, 2002
Posts
34,701
I have a very good friend who has been a great traveller but times have changed and the travel less frenetic. He does document his trips and I have enjoyed reading many of his reports. Like my trip reports they are an aid to memory. His most recent trip was back to his birth place in Woomera with his mother. I though it deserved a wider audience and he agreed to let me post it on AFF. I hope you enjoy it too. T he story -

I was born in Woomera.

Most would never know without a google check of where/what this is. It was a tiny desert outpost in the South Australian desert. Had/has a rocket range, or similar novel things. Secret things you want do in an isolated place. And it is truly isolated.

Despite my birth there, many many years ago, I lost contact. Left there when still a toddler. Years have gone on, new places, new realities. I went from a child in the desert to become, once upon a time, a fearless P1 QF god.

Last week I took my mother back there, before she gets too old to travel. To revisit old times. It was an offer I made, now that my father has died, for her to get a chance to wander again, revisit. And she desired this. A five day tour, flying BNE-ADL, rental car, touring. Staying with both old friends and in near-death old hotels😊

A cool concept, do a road trip with the mother, visit memories. And it went well. Mostly.

Am back.

Back in my snug garage, at my computer with snug huge chair, place of snug safety for me. Settling back into normal life again, after a five day trip that seems even now, barely hours after it ended, to be something that my mind is going to have a huge task ahead of digesting. For it was not what I expected.

It hurt me to my core.

But not in a “bad” way. Rather, it educated me to some of my real past, some things I never understood, until now.

I cried in the desert.

Background: Until this trip, my version of history was the one that one has when one was too young to remember, yet alone understand, what life really was back when I was born. I knew my parents moved to a remote rocket range/military thing in the middle of the desert in the early 1960’s. I knew that this was pre-internet 😊. So I had some sort of feelings of compassion for perhaps some hardships that my parents went through. That it was remote. That there was not the modern comforts, that there was no supermarket, etc.

Back in those days, it was 500km north of the nearest city of Adelaide. It is still, bizarrely, the same distance, but it is now a sealed road. So a trip now involves 5 hrs of driving, not 20. The place is harsh. I mean, really really harsh. It rains every 5 or so years. A tiny bit. Blazing heat much of the time. The only trees those nurtured in the town with water piped in from the Murray River 700km away. I understood all this, that it must have been very isolated, that “entertainment” consisted of doing barbecues or going camping in the bush. Simple stuff. Hard, but that is what you get when you work/live in a remote area.

I vaguely recalled a story that my mum once told me, that when she was pregnant with my elder sister, my dad and her went for a bit of a drive around the town (? Base?) they popped into the local cemetery for a look. I guess you do whatever in those days of non-bombardment with today’s myriad entertainment options. But my mum had said something about my father suddenly getting distressed, and making my mum leave the cemetery almost as soon as they arrived. He was the first to look at the tombstones.
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Anyway, I am used to my dear mother prattling on, so never paid any attention to the story. But on this trip my mum took me back there, to the tiny little cemetery just outside Woomera. She explained again, this time me actually listening, just why my dad suddenly hated that place.

It was because half the graves there are of babies. Not something for a pregnant wife to look at and ponder.

The 1960’s and early 1970’s were Woomera’s heyday – it was the busiest the place ever was. Many rocket programs, and other stuff. So a couple of hundred young couples living there. They had built a hospital, the one I was born in. And young couples tend to have babies.

But my mum explained that in those days they did not have aircon in the accommodation. And when you lack this, and have summers of 40+ degree temps, it is a rather nasty environment for babies. They dehydrate, wither in the arid air, and die ☹.

When we parked in the dusty vacant area that was the “parking lot” for the cemetery, I walked first into the main area. My mum is old and slow, walking stick and all, so, in hindsight thankfully, she was still barely out of the car and ambling in when I was already inside and was looking at all the graves. Bleak, stony paddock, with neat little rows of graves. I started to walk along these, as you do, looking at the little tombstones. I had only walked past a dozen or so when I noticed the pattern. Almost every second one was the grave of an infant. “Died aged six months”. “Died aged 12 days”. “Died aged 8 hours”.

Tears begin to well in my eyes. Again. I stumbled through the graveyard, and realized that half the field was filled by babies.

My mother wandered in and asked me to look for the grave of a person “xyz”. There are only about 150 graves, so took me not long to find this person. “Died aged 3 yrs”. I called my mum over, and she seemed different, not crying, but different. She explained to me that this was one of three children of one of their friends, who succumbed to the heat one year.

My father was a very tough person. A giant guy, hard but in a caring way. My mother explained that when XYZ died, it was the first and only time she ever saw him cry. XYZ was a beautiful little boy. Taken by the desert. My father sat in a chair and quietly wept.

I rarely cry, but I did so then, thankfully hidden by my wearing of deeply coloured sunglasses, and a swift retreat to an isolated corner.

I began to understand the reality it was that what these people, my own family, went through back then.
 
I took a single photo, of a single grave. It is of a “John Robert Burns”. I cannot remember him, of course. But he was born a few months before me, and died a few months after I was born. Truly my peer. But I “lived” and he didn’t.

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So in 1970, I survived and went on to a life full of adventures, crazy things, fun, hardship, study, work, travelling, P1, marriage, family. Life. And John Robert spent the same time in this universe quietly buried under a slab of rock in the scorching sun and dry desiccated air of Woomera, day after day there, quietly. I feel it now, that every day I had, he was always there.

Sounds insane (I am), but forever now I will live each day remembering John Robert. Make sure I acknowledge and respect every single day I have on this earth. I will also, again insanely, try to reach through the never-never, and try to bring him along with me in whatever is left of my life. I feel I was the lucky one, and thus should share that wealth. That fortune.

Feeling still the sorrow, that amazing and deep thing. A graveyard full of babies is a really new and unexpected thing in my often coughed-up life. But will move on.

I did the numbers. I read once that there were 200 kids born at Woomera. The graveyard has perhaps 80 or so dead infants. Sure, some would have died there born elsewhere, maybe?, and conversely some born there moved on. But I will never again wish to win Lotto. I won that way back. The fact that my parents kept all three of us siblings alive, enlightens me to a new sense of gratitude (?).

As an aside, I also found that the hospital I was born in has now been erased. Levelled, every last piece removed, leaving just the desert rocks. I knew my old home there had been removed, but the fact that the hospital now has been evaporated somehow brings me peace.

I am just confronted now with the realities back then. Your babies die. And there is nothing you can do to stop this. Not African tribal cough, not England in the 1600’s. This was real Australia in the 1970’s.

Getting back to the photo of John Robert’s grave, notice the details….

The tombstone plaque is rusted. Understandably not visited in decades. There is a small pottery bear thing to house flowers. Blue as he was a boy. All the child graves have these, all equally vacant. This, and every one, houses just dust and wind-driven soil. Despite the love and pain of each of these losses, people have to move on. To escape memories and despair.

It is left to me to now embrace all this, all these memories, pain, history. And I now carry all this, painfully, happily.

As I do, I will search out there in the other realms, and bring them all together, sort of a facebook group for dead kids of Woomera? A place where they can live on, share, not be alone, and watch, as I do, all the merry things in life.

And perhaps one day join them physically, my body resting under one of those stone slabs, shielded from the sun, but still enjoying the delights of the peace that Woomera also brings.

But for now, I will enjoy a moment of solitude, crying both in sadness and love.
 
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