Northern Japan in July trip report

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Thanks for earlier advice when we wondered whether a holiday in Japan in July would be too hot. We decided to have three nights in Tokyo, which was muggy but no worse than anywhere else that gets hot and muggy. Visited Bill Grainger's cafe in Ginza and generally had a lovely few days, staying in Ginza, a perfect location.

Flew to Hokkaido on Jetstar, about an hour and a half, and picked up a rental car booked through TooCoo! That all worked out very well and driving in Hokkaido was very easy. Low speeds, good roads, calm drivers. Not a problem at all and we would recommend it.

First night, in small town of Biei, in order to visit the stunning flower farms in the Furano area.

Second and third nights, drove into Asahikawa and stayed across from the new railway station and Aeon Mall. It was a good sized city, pleasant, and from there we had a great day at Sounkyo Onsen, going up to the snow line in a cable car and chair lift. Beautiful mountainous scenery, waterfalls, rivers and roads with several tunnels. It was early in the season so pretty quiet. People like to hike in the mountains after the snow melts so late July and August would be a lot busier.

Fourth and fifth nights were in Sapporo. Loved this city, lots to see and do. I used an itinerary I found and that was a good start to fill in two days.

Sixth night was spent at Lake Toya. That was a good day's drive from Sapporo via Otaru Canal. We spent a couple of hours wandering around that town, good restaurants, old warehouses converted to shops, boats up the canal and extremely fit rickshaw drivers! We continued on to the lake where we had a big room, half Japanese but with western beds. Perfect view of the lake and evening fireworks from our room. The Onsen was quite nice too and dinner was included.

Seventh night .... before we left, we went on the crater lake ferry to an island in the middle of the lake and did a forest walk for about an hour. Beautiful area. Our next hotel was a fantastic find, only about 30 minutes away, an Onsen resort hotel. We swapped our lake view room for a forest view. It felt as though it was in the middle of nowhere and basically we just used the onsens several times, ate the dinner and breakfast that were included, did our laundry and generally relaxed. Perfect resort hotel, green outfits provided and how nice to be so relaxed that you wore them to the restaurant as well as to the baths!

Eigth and ninth nights, we returned to Sapporo. There was still more to do, plus some shopping time. Mercure Hotel there was really good, great location so we returned to it. We liked the car parking too, very efficient lifts that took care of the car.

We returned the car, flew Jetstar back to Tokyo where we spent a few hours in the Sakura Lounge before flying Qantas back to Brisbane overnight.

A few general observations about Hokkaido. It was cooler than Honshu, very relaxed, green, lush, volcanoes, lakes, mountains, rivers, onsens. Towns had good shopping and we enjoyed our meals. Prices all seemed not a lot different to Australia. Renting a car made it easy. We probably beat the main tourist season by a week or two. Most times, there were few if any other Caucasians around, with tourists mainly from China, Korea, Singapore...

Highly recommend a visit to Hokkaido in summer. Can only imagine how different it is in winter!

I'm very happy to provide hotel names etc if anyone wants more detail.
 
I very much want to go back to Japan (and a lot of other places, sigh!), this is a trip that I have been considering for next year, could you fill us in on a few more details, did you book hotels and Onsen before arriving there? I'm a little concerned about driving there, this sort of thing doesn't provide me with much confidence!

japan.jpg

Thanks again, Mark.
 
I very much want to go back to Japan (and a lot of other places, sigh!), this is a trip that I have been considering for next year, could you fill us in on a few more details, did you book hotels and Onsen before arriving there? I'm a little concerned about driving there, this sort of thing doesn't provide me with much confidence!

View attachment 102513

Thanks again, Mark.

Hello, yes happy to be more specific. We booked hotels along the way, booking.com or japanican
i will list where we stayed in my next post.

Most hotels we stayed in had an Onsen, so I just used them there. In Asahikawa, it was a small one on the 17th floor that I had to myself and then shared with one other woman. Views out over the city, thermal water. At the lake and forest hotels, lots of hot baths in the complexes, various temperatures. Very relaxing experience. I've never been so clean!

Driving was honestly so easy. Traffic was light and speeds very slow. We had to remember that it would take twice as long to get anywhere, not for distsnce but speed. We only used the expressways a couple of times and just paid as we passed through. If you were using regularly, you buy an ETC card and then pass through that lane. We just drove to the cash lane, the one with the green and ETC sign, on the left. Reasonably pricey but good roads if in a hurry.

Will dig out my list of hotels. I tried to post photos but didn't manage it on iPad. Any tricks I need to know?
 
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And another thing we learnt last year and did again this year, we hired a wifi router, had it waiting at our first hotel. That meant we had wifi at all times for hunting for hotels etc. Just forgot to post it from Tokyo airport at the end ... oops. But we sorted it out!
 
Ah of course, I was getting onsen mixed up with ryokans..... silly me.

We didn't use any last trip, again I think I'm getting too old and I'm concerned about making other people feel uncomfortable!!
 
Hotels we used and were happy with all. Tiny bathrooms, like a cruise ship BUT amazing toilets!

Tokyo, Solaria at Ginza, 3 nights $627
Beie, Hotel L'Avenir .... small town, there wasn't a lot available in the area called Furano, $205
Asahikawa, Hotel Route Inn, 2 nights $432
Sapporo, Mercure, 2 nights $641
Lake Toya, Toya Kanko, Japanese style, included meals, $366
Kitayuzawa Mori no Soraniwa, our favourite, resort in forest, $265 for a night included big room, dinner and breakfast for 2. Great onsens, about 9 pools including an outdoor one.
Sappora Mercure, mid week, 2 nights, $530

The buildings, externally, were not very attractive in all the places we visited on Hokkaido but there are some very expensive hotel rooms that must be stunning.
 
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Ah of course, I was getting onsen mixed up with ryokans..... silly me.

We didn't use any last trip, again I think I'm getting too old and I'm concerned about making other people feel uncomfortable!!

We tried to book some ryokans but we didn't have much luck. The company we used for Nara last year, said they aren't able to access many on Hokkaido.

Onsen .... I was the only non Asian every time and nobody even glanced..... after the first one, once you feel you are doing it right, it is definitely more relaxing! The Japanese are so polite and respectful.
 
Thanks for this.We do love Japan and Hokkaido is gorgeous.We have been thinking of renting a car and your report may finally get us to do that.
 
Thanks for this.We do love Japan and Hokkaido is gorgeous.We have been thinking of renting a car and your report may finally get us to do that.

Very easy, I'm certain you'd manage it. TooCoo! Worked well ... the company picked us up at the New Chitose airport and took us to the offsite parking area. No problems dropping the car back. We drove through two cities without any issues and loved the car parking system. Thanks for your help when I contacted you prior to our trip.
 
Thanks for your TR karen, I quite enjoyed it. I was in Sapporo and Niseko in May and was taken to Lake Toya which I enjoyed.

Mt Uso was also a great sight, did you see it?

I have previously been to Sapporo in winter for Snow and Ice festival and it is totally different. Can certainly recommend it.

As for the onsen, well I can barely see without my glasses which I suspect was best for everybody. I was told how to do everything properly and no one was offended.
 
Thanks for your TR karen, I quite enjoyed it. I was in Sapporo and Niseko in May and was taken to Lake Toya which I enjoyed.

Mt Uso was also a great sight, did you see it?

I have previously been to Sapporo in winter for Snow and Ice festival and it is totally different. Can certainly recommend it.

As for the onsen, well I can barely see without my glasses which I suspect was best for everybody. I was told how to do everything properly and no one was offended.


Yes great views of Mt Usu from the lake and also Mt Yotei that we drove around from Sapporo and back. It's definitely an island of volcanoes and all that comes with that .....

i saw that the average temp in Asahikawa in winter is -25C whereas it was about 28 and perfect in summer. Winter would be quite something.
 
Seventh night .... before we left, we went on the crater lake ferry to an island in the middle of the lake and did a forest walk for about an hour. Beautiful area. Our next hotel was a fantastic find, only about 30 minutes away, an Onsen resort hotel. We swapped our lake view room for a forest view. It felt as though it was in the middle of nowhere and basically we just used the onsens several times, ate the dinner and breakfast that were included, did our laundry and generally relaxed. Perfect resort hotel, green outfits provided and how nice to be so relaxed that you wore them to the restaurant as well as to the baths!

We stayed at a similar place in our last visit. It was a very nice start of our trip and a good way to transition into the holiday.

I heartily recommend a few days in mid to late Autumn at Oirase Keiryu, a property of the impeccable Hoshino hotel empire. It's in a really beautiful part of Japan.
 
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I very much want to go back to Japan (and a lot of other places, sigh!), this is a trip that I have been considering for next year, could you fill us in on a few more details, did you book hotels and Onsen before arriving there? I'm a little concerned about driving there, this sort of thing doesn't provide me with much confidence!

Thanks again, Mark.

Hi Cossie. I've spent over 3 months driving hokkaido in the winter now. Those ETCs are really easy to use if your car comes with an etc pass, and if not the price in yen flashes up. The Japanese are so polite and helpful even if you held up the queue, no one would beep or anything anyway.

We went into the wrong lane the first time, but the attendant just took the card out of our machine, ran across 3 lanes and swiped it for us, then ran back and reinserted it into the car and bowed as we drove off. It's pretty nuts.

GPS works really easily via phone numbers so you just google the number you want, type it in and drive off. In summer there are no closed roads so it's even easier.
 
Very nice trip report. The flowers look beautiful.
 
Very nice trip report. The flowers look beautiful.

Thanks. Very nice trip ...... the flowers may have been better a week later but then the tourist numbers would have increased too. We were very happy with our day at the various flower farms. It was probably the photos I saw that tipped me over into going. I had trouble uploading photos otherwise you would have seen a few more!
 
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