Adventure across Arnhem Land

JohnM

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 7, 2006
Posts
11,144
Qantas
LT Gold
Time to get on the move again.

Tomorrow around noon it’s on the bird PER-DRW and then on Friday morning DRW-GOV to start a 12-night journey across Arnhem Land back to Darwin and then home after another night in DRW.

Here’s the route:

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Most of the TR will be after returning home as we’ll be out of suitable comms for much of the time.

Only for the avid QF trials & tribulations masochis_:

The flight bookings have been a saga. I booked the tour in early 2021 as a solo. It was not possible for PJM, who still toils, to guarantee getting leave that far ahead. I wanted to be assured of snaring a place on the tour and figured that the chances of converting to a double should she be able to get leave would be good.

Subsequently, a year on from booking the tour, PJM was able to snare the requisite leave and I changed the booking to a double without any problem. The tour had been fully booked for rooms for a considerable time but was obviously still one shy on headcount.

My original flight booking PER-DRW was one day before the start of the tour and at that time QF was flying B738s. Booking well ahead, I chose a reasonably priced whY revenue return fare, and upgraded with points. Six months later, QF subbed Alliance A320 whY-only birds on the PER-DRW route on all but about one day per week. I phoned and had my UPG points refunded.

Subsequently, I added PJM’s flights, that done as a straight points redemption. I then phoned QF, thankfully getting Hobart immediately, and had our separate bookings ‘linked’ with me as travel organiser. All seemed sweet.

A few weeks ago, as lost luggage was making for nightmares and HLO seemed just too much of a stretch for our time away and activities, we decided to pull our PER-DRW flight forward by a day. This would avoid the worry of having to move on to GOV from DRW early the next morning with the possibility of luggage having not made it from PER with us and it never catching up with us as we ventured into the bush. It also meant a late morning departure from PER, instead of at sparrow’s amidst the FIFO zoo.

I phoned and got Hobart. I knew from EF that X-bucket was still available, which was a key trigger in moving our flights ahead one day, so it was easy to move PJM’s date. Mine cost a few extra $$, but I figured it was worth it for peace of mind.

In another twist since then, QF ditched the Alliance A320 and reverted back to a QF B738, initially for our PER-DRW flight, then subsequently for DRW-PER. But there was no U-bucket availability that late, so whY it remained.

Then came the next element in the saga. Our separate bookings, despite being ‘linked’, with me as WP and PJM as NB, created some hassles. With the change of bird, we had both been relegated to row 15 automatically, rather than row 6. I was unable to move PJM forward. It seemed like I was in some way ‘following’ her, rather than the other way round.

Something seemed wrong, so I phoned – but got Fiji. Heart sank. The very nice, but clearly very inexperienced agent, was insistent that I had to move to row 15 as PJM could not be moved to row 6 – even though our bookings were ‘linked’.

I protested that it doesn’t work that way, so she goes to higher authority with the promise of a call back when they can’t be immediately accessed. After an hour she phones back and has put PJM next to me in row 6. That’s better.

I then noticed in EF that there was one U and some I-bucket seats DRW-PER. Hmmm… maybe - if I get Hobart - there might be a possibility of upgrades. I also still had an uneasy feeling that something was not quite right about the ‘linking’ of the bookings.

I phone, get offshore, they can’t help and I get shunted elsewhere, then shunted again. Hobart! Woo-hoo! Excellent agent Dave looks and says: “Hang on, there’s something strange here.” Do tell, Dave!

Dave rummages around. It turns out that after bringing my PER-DRW flight forward by a day and paying the extra $$, it had not been ticketed! All the offshore agents had missed that. PJM’s cost-free changed award redemption booking, on the other hand, had sailed through.

Dave sorts it on the spot, the ticket hits my inbox and a ping from Amex says QF has just charged the supplementary $$ as we speak. He assures me that our bookings are linked, in the process informing me that for the last five years or so, a linked booking that agents can clearly see, does not display on the primary traveller’s online account. A known deficiency - Dave’s obviously been around for a while.

Dave is good and highly obliging – but despite attempting some fancy footwork, sadly he can’t help with snaring two UPGs…

In retrospect, the learning from the ‘linking’ bookings saga is that it probably would have been better to cancel my original revenue booking once PJM was clear to go and rebook us both on the one PNR. C’est la vie.

As some consolation, T-80 came around at sparrow’s on Sunday and row 4 opened. Snared! I can now relax!
 
Fingers crossed for smooth flights.

Also, following with some envy. Please post some photos of your trip. I crossed Arnhem Land from Nhulunbuy to Katherine and return with my family in 1970. No safari camps back then.
 
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Interesting occurrence just now.

Yesterday EF was showing J2, so I was thinking there was a chance of an ODU. But early this morning it was J1, so there goes that idea.

Now sitting in the JLounge and idly checking EF. It’s showing J6, C1🧐. Check with the lounge agent and sure enough, EF is spot-on. Apparently some incoming flights are delayed.

Can easily UPG - BUT there’s only one spare meal in J 🤨.

We’ll stay in 4A,C with B blocked…

Anyway, we’re renting a car on arrival, so maybe better to stay in whY. 😇
 
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WiFi was not working on the bird, and there were some nice scenes of the flowering canola fields on a cloudless day across the WA grain belt that I photographed.

I think I’ll abandon any attempt to post further until I get back home.
 
OK, now back home after a sensational jam-packed trip.

Back to the beginning: heading out from PER over the grain belt. Canola in bloom, and a lot of it.

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Coming into DRW.

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An evening strolling around the Esplanade and the Waterfront.

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Next day was a spent having a leisurely poke around Darwin before an excellent dinner at Char. The big military exercise was in full swing and there was a steady stream of aircraft heading out in pairs over East Point reserve near the military museum.

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We stumbled across the Qantas Empire Airways hangar, dating back to 1934 and built to accommodate the ‘Empire mail planes’ (de Havilland DH86s), and now surrounded by suburbs. It’s now the home of the Motor Vehicle Enthusiasts Club and their museum. Free entry and well worth a look.

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A good collection of the famous ‘Darwin stubbies’. The site got bombed and shot up during the war.

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Following with interest.
Incidentally, was it the Alliance or Network A320 that you dodged?
 
Next morning it was onto the TL E190 DRW-GOV for the start of our tour.

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The inevitable dry-season low-intensity bushfires and highly patterned river and estuary systems.

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Coming into GOV over the now defunct alumina refinery that is in the early stages of being demolished. Bauxite is still mined but is now shipped out unprocessed.

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Into GOV and onto our transport for the next twelve days.

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The view from 1A, further back, and up front. They have a randomised daily seat rotation that ensures a thorough mixing. It works well and is better than a circulating pattern IMO.

The maximum number on the Arnhem Land tour is 22; we had 20 as one of the missing couple apparently broke a leg shortly before they were to leave home.

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The first day was arrivals and general orientation. Accommodation in Nhulunbuy for the first two nights was at the Walkabout Lodge, the only hotel in town. Perfectly reasonable but not a patch on the Outback Spirit-owned properties to come.

Next day, which happened to be a Saturday and therefore a local football day, had a Welcome to Country-type ceremony with a display of dance and traditional healing. It was meant to be held under trees fringing the beach out of town. We drove out there for a walk on the beach before the ceremony, but it began to rain and was windy, so it was moved under shelter at the hotel.

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Next morning it was onto the coach for the longest day’s drive of the tour: 430km to Murwangi Safari Camp on the edge of the Arafura Swamp.

Close inspection of the map shows many roads marked ‘Permit Required’. A very large part of Arnhem Land is closed and there are numerous traditional owner communities scattered throughout. Outback Spirit negotiated with something like 28 TO communities for access through the region. Murwangi Safari Camp, located on a former cattle station, is their own property. Basically, there is no other way for tourists to visit.

A tour departs Nhulunbuy every second day from about May to October. There are four stops of two nights and the last one, at Seven Spirit Bay, is three nights. That means an incoming group overlaps one night with an outgoing group, has one night as the only group in residence, then overlaps on the penultimate night with a new incoming group. The final night of the tour is spent in Darwin.

Transfer to Seven Sprit Bay is by boat and driver/guides stay with their group for the duration of the tour. The coach is left at the boat landing for a driver flown into Seven Spirit Bay from Darwin the next day and transferred over to the coach by boat. That driver shuttles the empty coach back to Nhulunbuy over the next day and a half for another tour to commence the following day.

Driver/guides fly DRW-GOV the morning after their previous tour ends to start their next run, while the shuttle drivers fly GOV-DRW to repeat the process. It’s a full-on non-stop cycle of work for the season.

The obvious question is: “Why don’t they initiate tours at both ends, rather than shuttling the coaches back?” The answer to that will become obvious, but it’s to do with ending on a high note at the signature location of Seven Spirit Bay lodge.

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Evidence of fires abounds, but the low intensity of the frequent burns, the well-spaced trees and high, open crowns means that fierce crown fires do not occur. Regrowth is rapid and flowering of the pandanus is stimulated. Although well into the dry season, there was still water in some waterways.

Driving stretches were up to about 2 hours before a pitstop or a morning tea break. With the exception of this day, driving did not extend into the afternoon.

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Archer fish – they spit water to down flying insects.

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OK, now back home after a sensational jam-packed trip.

Back to the beginning: heading out from PER over the grain belt. Canola in bloom, and a lot of it.

View attachment 294066

Coming into DRW.

View attachment 294067

An evening strolling around the Esplanade and the Waterfront.

View attachment 294068

Next day was a spent having a leisurely poke around Darwin before an excellent dinner at Char. The big military exercise was in full swing and there was a steady stream of aircraft heading out in pairs over East Point reserve near the military museum.

View attachment 294069View attachment 294070

Playing catch up :cool:✈️
 
After lunch, we ventured out in the open-top LandCruisers. Franky and Graeme were our TO guides. A couple of characters. Franky would rattle off a great string of explanations in his own language, with great gesticulating, while Graeme would be nodding and laughing. Then Keith, the Murwangi manager would interpret.

We felt that Franky was really saying, or at least adding, “Look at these whitefella chumps, Graeme!” as they p!ssed themselves laughing.

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Green ants are ubiquitous in northern Australia, forming clustered-leaf nests by weaving the silk of butterfly larvae they tend (Green Tree Ant - Museum of Tropical Queensland). When disturbed, the ants swarm out of the nest.

The ants are harmless and when squashed or bitten, the abdomen releases a sharp citrus-tasting liquid that is quite pleasant to taste.

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Franky in full flight at a cathedral-type termite mound while his sidekick watches on ready for the big laugh. Magnetic termite mounds are thin on the N-S axis and wide on the E-W axis for thermoregulation, as this species of termite has no underground galleries as it occurs in wetter areas. And the ‘up yours’ termite mound shape.

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