A short trip to Beijing, Australia

[seanpodge]

So, maybe an explanation is in order.

I am an Australian who has been living in Harbin, China for about 7 years. This year my passport is due to expire and the renewal process necessitates an appointment at an Australian embassy or consulate. So, in order to line things up with the renewal of my Chinese visa in the middle of the year, at the end of last year, I decided to book an overnight trip to Beijing for the end of February.

Then certain events occurred.....

Mercifully, Chinese airlines, whether gently guided by the government or otherwise, were rather quick to offer full and unconditional refunds on all airfares and when I finally canceled the flights on the Air China website, the money was back in my account within ten minutes. With that and my hotel (which was already able to be canceled without penalty anyway) canceled, the waiting game began for a suitable window to take this trip.

By the end of February, the situation in China was clearly trending towards improvement and the trip to the embassy was once again looking viable. But how would it work?

My main concern was if I would have to undergo a quarantine period when I entered Beijing. The nightmare scenario would be that I would have to do one when I came back to Harbin too. This was especially concerning given that according to the the Australian embassy's website, I would have to go back to Beijing to pick up the passport myself, potentially leading to 8 weeks of quarantine. Information about the situation for people entering China from overseas was plentiful, but information about domestic travel was scarce besides a couple of articles I found from February 23rd, which may as well have been Confucian scrolls given how quickly policies can change in these times. Still, it suggested that a trip was possible and despite my searching I couldn't find anything more recent to contradict it, so I started calling around.

Firstly, to the person who manages visas at work, who is in regular contact with local authorities. Then the Australian embassy itself, which suggested that it would probably be OK but that I should check with my hotel. I had heard of foreigners in Shanghai having issues with hotels so I searched for western brands in Beijing that were more likely to be foreigner friendly and emailed them directly asking:

a) are they actually open; and

b) can I stay there for one night (pretty please)??

From 6-7 hotels, I think only 2 were able to accept me. So I settled on the Grand Mercure Dongcheng, near Yonghegong. This was handily within a 30-40 minute walk of the embassy (I could do with the exercise).

In reply to my e-mail, they sent a form from Beijing police wanting to know the purpose of my visit, my recent travel history and my personal and contact details. With that filled in and sent back to the hotel, the hotel later called me back and said that the police have accepted the form and took my booking.

 

[seanpodge]

After that, I booked a pair of flights. Usually there are nearly 20 return flights daily between HRB and PEK. The range this time was a little more limited. Pretty sure it was down to just 8, 6 provided by CA.

With Air China dominating this market and my handy *G status in need of exercise, the choice was pretty simple. I booked conservatively on the first flight of the morning in case there were any issues at the airport. Work got back to me saying that there would be people waiting for me at the airport but otherwise it should be fine. Whilst not a 100% sure thing, I was feeling quietly confident about this trip.

 

[seanpodge]

The big day arrived. Usually, I would take the airport bus, but the schedule had changed to hourly service, so I decided against it. I had booked a ride on Caocao the day before and the car arrived early as promised. Apart from the ubiquitous face mask, a sheet of plastic hung from the ceiling blocking the front and back of the car. Obviously, despite it being somewhat unAustralian, I took the back seat. After making it through my neighbourhood checkpoint, the rest of the ride was uneventful with the traffic at 5:30 am being a bit light.


The view from the back seat

At the airport, large posters with QR codes were up by the entrances for people to scan as they entered. The explosives check that happens at Chinese airports also became a temperature check, where workers checked on monitors hooked up to infrared cameras. Many of the workers, apart from the obligatory face masks, were also wearing glove and eye protection. A few were in some sort of hazmat suit.


Temperature check at the entrance of HRB T2

There were no real lines for check in so despite only having a carry on, I checked in at the desk. Once again, my temperature was taken and my health code was verified. Landside, all the restaurants and stalls were open (not that HRB is overflowing with choice).


A special box at the check in counter for disinfecting one's ID card

Time for security. A special lane was operating for people travelling to Beijing. This required another health code scanning and a temperature check. Apart from that, it was a standard security check. Beijing at times does get special attention, for example during the Two Meetings.

After that, I thought that I’d try the McDonald’s that opened with the new T2. The fancy touch kiosks had been turned off and sadly my preferred hash browns were unavailable, but it still worked out. McDonald’s, like many food companies in China, included the temperatures of the workers preparing the food.


Epidemic health information at HRB McDonald's

As I strolled over to the gate for my flight, the airport was quieter than usual but not dead. All the shops and lounges appeared to be open and operating regularly. At the gate, while a few had gloves and the odd person had a coverall protective suit (not sure if actually medical grade), most stuck with face masks. As boarding was called, a QR code was scanned to verify that your were “green” and a worker in a hazmat suit took your temperature. Another sign was posted asking people to register with one of the Beijing health apps.. After this final check and myself once again not getting an op-up, time to say “welcome aboard!”


The crowd at Gate 41


Dear passengers, flight CA1640 to Beijing is ready for boarding


Sign at boarding gate informing passengers that registering with a Beijing health app is mandatory

 

[love_the_life]

This is a fascinating read so far. Can’t wait to see how it pans out. Hopefully with no problems.

 

[craven morehead]

Very interesting

 

[RB]

Great to have someone posting an actual experience-(much better than some of the speculation currently abounding)

 

[seanpodge]

Great to have someone posting an actual experience-(much better than some of the speculation currently abounding)

You're welcome.

Part of the reason for doing this trip report was initially just because it would be a bit different, even if HRB-PEK is really just a quick 1.5 - 2 hour domestic flight, the type of flight many on here would have done a countless number of times. But as I was on the trip, it did occur to me that for many larger countries in the world, like Australia, once the virus is under some sort of control, there will be a want to restart at least interstate travel. Possibly the way it is being done in China is a system to look at. Taiwan and especially Singapore, whatever their successes in containing the virus, aren't likely to provide a useful example on this front.

Also, with no one else travelling, I have the trip report market all to myself!

 

[seanpodge]

Flight CA1640
Airline Air China
Aircraft Boeing 737-800
Registration B-1760
Route HRB - PEK
Class Economy
Seat 27A
Departure 8:30
Arrival 10:45

Great to be back! Well, except for the lack of upgrade. Does Griselda offer her services in Chinese?

This was my first flight since October 2019. Whilst the world had changed a slight bit since then, on board, besides the ubiquitous face masks, it wasn’t all that different. Apart from the FAs wearing facemasks and gloves, the service was pretty much the same as before. Messages played on the PA during boarding relating to COVID-19. Then the old messages from the “security team leader on this flight” played out as usual.

Perhaps slightly unusually, the plane pushed back about twenty minutes early. Taxiing to the runway, our plane passed by a large number of B737s and A320s with their engine covers on, probably about 40-50 planes in total. While China Southern* operates a "focus city" at HRB and so did have a few on the ground, I suspect other airlines saw HRB as a cheaper option than somewhere like PEK or PVG, particularly since the peak winter tourist season was already over. Despite a long wait at the runway holding point for no obvious reason, take off happened at the scheduled departure time.


My steed being lead out to the runway. The tail fins of several planes enjoying the long term parking services at HRB can be seen in the top left of the picture.

Meals were served in a box, which is pretty standard for economy class on this flight. The only real change was that everyone was handed a bottle of water rather than getting a choice of beverage, presumably to reduce the touching of things leading to contamination. A rather bread centric brunch served up, with a rather chilled orange saved by a actually quite good seaweed flavoured snack.


Bon appétit

The flight itself was smooth and uneventful, with possibly up to 10 seconds of turbulence over the 1.5 - 2 hours. The plane landed about half an hour early and there was never a threat of getting a remote gate as the plane pulled up at T3C. T3E looked very bare with CA really dominating the ramps. Disembarkation happened as normal. Now to see if I’d be let in!

* The reason for the ironically strong presence of CZ not only in HRB, but also the other major Northeastern airports of SHE, CGQ and DLC is that CZ took over China Northern Airlines back in 2003.

 

[mrsterryn]

Such an interesting read for now

 

[seanpodge]

Before take off, I did manage to register something on one of the Beijing health apps, which was tricky without a Chinese ID card. I was a little concerned that given how encompassing the code was back in Harbin that life in Beijing would be quite tricky if I couldn’t get the local version to work. So in a way, I was surprised that it all went so smoothly. After getting off, I made the usual lengthy walk to the baggage claim and exit. The room for domestic transits was busy, possibly reflecting service cuts in China leading to the suspension of some non stop routes. The international transfer room looked closed. At the entrance of the baggage claim area, a worker in hazmat gear took my temperature and asked where I had come from, checking my boarding pass. After that I was free to go. Time for a coffee!


The arrivals hall of PEK T3

T3 arrivals was a ghost town. Only a few people were waiting for others to arrive in the hall. The international arrival area had no one there. Even the scam taxi drivers were staying home. Things were serious!

At the Starbucks, access was only allowed by scanning a code. Not sure if I had the right one, the worker told me that I could order via the app and he’d hand the coffee to me. Things were clearly not as busy as usual, when this outlet would often have queues out the door. After having my coffee (finding two meters to drink it sans face mask wasn’t a challenge), I decided that given how quite arrivals was, the Airport Express would be a better bet than a bus or taxi for social distancing.


The whole day's international arrivals at PEK.

This proved to be very correct. After another temperature check, I got on just as the warning alarm for departure rang, there were about 5 other people in my carriage and could not have been more than 30 on the train in total. Traffic existed but moved fairly freely as I looked out the window until we entered the tunnel. At the terminus at Dongzhimen, myself and maybe 20 others made their way to Beijing. After figuring out east from west, I made my way to the hotel on foot.

 

[seanpodge]

Upon entering the hotel, a member of staff manned a desk by the door and then asked to take my temperature and scan a QR code. The QR code produced a message on my phone which showed which cities I had been in in the last 14 days. Coincidentally enough, the worker also happened to be from Harbin. With all that passing muster, I was then guided to reception where the normal check in process occurred, along with a bit of verification of my trip purpose. I was informed also that given the low occupancy and/or epidemic requirements, the front desk would not open until 8 am the next day for checking out.

The hotel was undergoing renovations when I was visiting (pretty good timing really!) so there’s not much point going too deep into it since it could be completely different in 6 months. My room was fine, although the wi fi was patchy and in general it did feel like it could do with an update. The bed was comfortable and I had no problems falling asleep. Also had a proper shower and separate bath tub rather than one of those 2 in 1 deathtraps. Really, I just needed a place near the embassy to shelter for a night and it did the job.




My home away from home

In the afternoon, I headed out to the photographers recommended by the embassy to get my photo taken. Needing the exercise after being largely cooped up for two months, I decided to walk to the shop, about an hour Beijing seemed, if not quite as busy as usual, certainly not a ghost town with enough traffic and pedestrians out and about and many shops and small restaurants open for business. The photographer managed to get the "was sentenced to a minimum of 6 years for organised crime activities" look just right and I was all set for the embassy the next day.

On the way back to the hotel, I stopped in for a take away meal and some snacks at a convenience store. At both, I had my temperature taken, but didn’t need to scan a code like I probably would in Harbin. This was turning out simpler than I though it would be. I headed back to the hotel and did some work on my laptop before packing things up to be ready to leave tomorrow.

 

[seanpodge]

Also, while I'm here, although the room itself was fine if nothing special, I did appreciate both the full stationary kit offered and the lovely and creative way the hotel information was provided. Hopefully this doesn't change when the renovations are done.


Stationary set


Hotel guide: for those seeking knowledge, firstly....


Open the box and then.....


Unravel the scroll of knowledge!

 

[seanpodge]

Once again I walked out to the embassy to make my 9:00 appointment. Traffic was building up with even slight indications of a jam near Dongzhimen station. Apart from some issues with my signature (can't even forge my own, it seems), the application went smoothly and my postal address was taken, saving me another trip to Beijing to collect the passport. I went back to the hotel by bus to collect my bag and check out.


A checkpoint set up outside an entrance to a hutong.


Traffic at Dongzhimen


A handy little load indicator for some buses in Baidu Maps

Given the light load the day before, I decided the Airport Express was as safe as any taxi and was met with a similarly light load again. As per HRB, the explosives check also doubled as a temperature check. The check-in counters at T3 were obviously pretty quiet. Using the kiosk, I had my boarding pass and after another coffee at the L4 Starbucks, I made my way through security, which was the same except for the temperature check and questions about where I had been for the last fourteen days.


Beijing Airport Express


The board at PEK T3

I hadn’t really eaten much yet, so I headed for the Air China lounge, where after the temperature check, I was admitted in. Usually this lounge is standing room only and you would be better off finding one of the small Air China lounges around T3 to find a seat, but today it was barely half full. The lunch buffet was open and I actually got a decent meal there. However chairs were blocked off to facilitate social distancing and disposable tin foil boxes and chopsticks were provided rather than the reusable tableware usually provided. With my hunger sated, it was time to head to the gate, where a queue was already forming.

All lounges should have a tarmac view!


Lunch at Air China Business Lounge T3C

 

[seanpodge]

Flight CA1623
Airline Air China (Operated by “Beijing Airlines”)
Aircraft Boeing 737-800
Registration B-5485
Route PEK - HRB
Class Economy
Seat 30A
Departure 12:50
Arrival 14:50

Like the flight the day before, most passengers seemed to feel that the face masks were enough, with only a few going with gloves and an odd passenger or two in hazmat gear. When I booked this flight for only ¥230 (about $50), I thought that this flight would be near empty. However it ended up being fully loaded, probably thanks to about three dozen police officers travelling together. Once again, I had my temperature taken and was asked where I had been in the last 14 days before boarding. A sign at the boarding gate asked people to register for the Heilongjiang health code, which I already had.

On board, I was also handed a form fill in when I had last entered China. I assume this was because I am a foreigner, although once I explained myself, there were no further problems. Everything at PEK was strangely punctual and after passing by the rather unusual sight of an Aer Lingus plane on the tarmac at PEK (I’m not sure about the new livery, to be honest), it was time to take off for HRB.

What looks like a Wizz Air plane at PEK.


An Aer Lingus plane picking up supplies at PEK.

For some reason this flight was officially operated by Beijing Airlines, which sounds like a cheap bid for local government subsidies. Everything else besides the very basic livery on the side of the plane was the same as any other Air China plane.


Once again, the flight was smooth and the meal served in a box but even more bread-centric than yesterday’s effort. A bread roll, a muffin and a gravied egg was accompanied with a bottle of Nongfu’s finest. Was quite pleased that I went to the lounge first. My window seat gave me a good view of the farmland below with the burning off clearly underway as the last of the winter ice grimly resisted summer’s advance. Delightfully again, we pulled into HRB early and to a proper air bridge. It did seem like there was some set up on the tarmac for either police or medical workers returning to Harbin. Time to disembark probably for the last time for a while.


The onboard meal


The last of the winter ice thawing out under the approach to HRB.

 

[love_the_life]

I have to ask. What's a gravied. egg? It looks like a hard boiled egg in some kind of sauce.

 

[Maca44]

Great read, and after having your temperature taken that many times over two days you should feel a bit confident.

 

[drron]

Thanks for an interesting look at China.
does look like you made an inspired decision late last year to travel in February.looks like there would be a little more difficulty now.

Covid-19 resurges in northeast China | New Straits Times

BEIJING: New clusters of Covid-19 coronavirus infections in northeastern China near the Russian border forced officials on Wednesday to tighten restrictions on movement as they seek to prevent a second outbreak of the contagion.

www.nst.com.my

Keep safe.

 

[woodyren]

Thank you so much for posting this.

I assume from your report that you speak and possibly read Mandarin.

How would a non native speaker be able to navigate through all these apps and questions etc? I would imagine it would be extremely difficult.

 

[seanpodge]

I have to ask. What's a gravied. egg? It looks like a hard boiled egg in some kind of sauce.

You're on the right track. It's my direct translation of what's on the packet. Having just consulted Baidu, it seems to be a "marinated egg" (卤蛋 ), whereby a boiled egg is shelled and then rubbed in some flavourings and spices. Served dry. Looks like this:

Great read, and after having your temperature taken that many times over two days you should feel a bit confident.

Thanks. I was reasonably confident, although once at the hotel after a lengthy walk, I got a reading so low that I should have been dead.

Thanks for an interesting look at China.
does look like you made an inspired decision late last year to travel in February.looks like there would be a little more difficulty now.

Covid-19 resurges in northeast China | New Straits Times

BEIJING: New clusters of Covid-19 coronavirus infections in northeastern China near the Russian border forced officials on Wednesday to tighten restrictions on movement as they seek to prevent a second outbreak of the contagion.

www.nst.com.my

Keep safe.

Thanks.

Yeah, we've had a bit of a stumble here in the last fortnight, although at least it's not like February. The May Day holiday just got cut back sadly.

Thank you so much for posting this.

I assume from your report that you speak and possibly read Mandarin.

How would a non native speaker be able to navigate through all these apps and questions etc? I would imagine it would be extremely difficult.

Thanks for reading!

I do speak and read enough Chinese to get by. Some of the apps aren't so bad. The local health app here in Harbin had a special page for foreigners in English to register which was helpful. That said, some of the other apps might need a bit of translation help. The average thermometer wielder's English is likely to be rudimentary at best. One help is that by scanning the QR codes (which many foreigners are used to thanks to WeChat), a fair bit of the process is automated.

 

[seanpodge]

At arrivals, a temperature screening station was set up just before the baggage carousels. There were also QR codes to register for the Heilongjiang health code, although it might be a good idea to put a fair few more up given the crowd bunched around the one or two trying to scan the code.

With no luggage to claim, once passed the threshold, everyone joined another queue to, of course, have one’s temperature taken, be asked about your recent travel history and your contact details. I was taken to the initial desk where I was asked why I was coming to Harbin and where I was staying. A row of desks were set up in the arrivals area for each district in Harbin along with other cities in Heilongjiang (the long distance coaches had just resumed service a few days ago). I made my way to the appropriate desk for myself and had my temperature taken, scanned a QR code for my health code, another to show which locations I had been for the last 14 days based on my mobile phone. After confirming that I didn’t need to isolate or quarantine myself, I then headed out the main exit and ordered a Caocao back home, which went smoothly except for several minutes at the start where we couldn’t find each other in the car park.

Overall, everything went more smoothly than I imagined (lack of op ups notwithstanding!). I didn’t need to quarantine, the places I needed to go and transport I needed didn’t present any issues and my passport was delivered to me in 10 days. If anything the restrictions in Beijing felt lighter than back in Harbin. While I don’t think I’ll do any domestic sightseeing for a few months yet, it does seem that as long as the epidemic is kept under control that it would be a realistic option whilst international travel is suspended. I do wonder if other countries like Australia will look to places such as China (particularly if there isn't a breakout linked to domestic aviation here) when they try to resume domestic flights.