Sweden and Tanzania 23/24

With snow forecast all day, seemed an excellent day for museum visiting. Mr ShelleyB was keen on the Vasa Museum, a 17th century gunship that sank almost immediately upon launch due to poor design, and which was raised almost intact in the middle of last century. The ship itself, lack of seaworthiness notwithstanding, was amazing and its preservation incredible. Getting to the museum also gave us a chance to ride the Stockholm trams and compare to their Melbourne equivalent. The network in Stockholm is nowhere near the extent of Melbourne, but trams are modern and even still have conductors to check tickets. I miss Melbourne conductors.

Friday for the ShelleyB family has always traditionally been pizza night and we try to stick with this even when travelling. Sadly forgot to take pictures but can highly recommend Giro Pizza (Sveagaden 46). Outstanding pizza at reasonable prices.

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A big day today. Started the day making good use of our metro passes by taking a self-guided tour of Stockholm’s metro stations. The majority of Stockholm’s metro stations have been individually decorated by local artists. We visited only about 10 but they were amazing and made for an enjoyable

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In the afternoon we enjoyed a snowy Stockholm and some “fika” or coffee and cake at a coffee shop, a Swedish tradition. And as far as I can tell they enjoy it very much and very often. Every other shop is a cafe.
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A great day was rounded out by going to the theatre to watch A Christmas Carol at the Folkoperan, staged by a touring company from Britain. Apparently they stage this every year. Was a very polished production and the young man playing Tiny Tim, a local boy, was a really excellent singer.

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You are actually a bit lucky to get snow at this time of year!

I lived in Stockholm for 14 years and can report that snow at Christmas is very hit or miss! January on the other hand....

Soon, if you don't know already, it will be Julafton (Christmas Eve) in Sweden. This is more-or-less the same tradition as Christmas Day in Australia. But the afternoon before.

It all actually starts after noon. Shops etc can even be open in the morning.

But wait until the afternoon ... :)
 
You are actually a bit lucky to get snow at this time of year!

I lived in Stockholm for 14 years and can report that snow at Christmas is very hit or miss! January on the other hand....

Soon, if you don't know already, it will be Julafton (Christmas Eve) in Sweden. This is more-or-less the same tradition as Christmas Day in Australia. But the afternoon before.

It all actually starts after noon. Shops etc can even be open in the morning.

But wait until the afternoon ... :)
14 years is a long time to have lived here. It looks like a lovely city to live in.

We certainly are pleased to have snow as we had no expectation of it, and it’s an excellent bonus for Christmas time. We too are having our big celebration this Christmas Eve, and have booked a restaurant serving a Julbord. Reports and photos tomorrow.
 
As promised in a previous post, a review of our Christmas Eve Julbord (Christmas smorgasbord). Christmas eve in Sweden is the big family day and the big celebratory meal. With a Julbord booked for later in the day, we wanted to use some energy to make room for dinner. We therefore headed out to Hellasgarden, a nature area only a short bus ride from the city. Hellasgarden was stunning, with a mostly frozen lake and lots of walking paths. Interestingly while picnicking at Christmas is a real Australian tradition, I would not have expected it to be a Swedish tradition too. But we saw quite a few families with small BBQs and sleds galore, enjoying the outdoors. And mutliple crazy Swedes ice bathing.

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In the evening was the star of Christmas Eve, the Julbord at Villa Godthem. The smorgasbord replicated a traditional Swedish Christmas meal, with 5 courses including cold fish, cold meats, hot dishes, cheese and dessert. The food was very good and obviously portions as generous as you wanted them to be. ShelleyB-son was particularly impressed with the dessert bar. I would also add it was an expensive indulgence and I was somewhat surprised to see it was almost completely populated by locals. Even the waiter expressed some suprise to find us, as tourists, there. I guess I assumed most would have their Christmas Eve meal at home. But there’s a lot to be said for not cooking and perhaps in a city where many (most?) live in apartments, having a lot of people for dinner can be challenging.
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the Julbord at Villa Godthem.

While I have have not lived in Stockholm for almost 20 years, it would have been hard when I lived there, to find many places outside the major hotels, that would be open for dinner on Julafton!

So well done!

in a city where many (most?) live in apartments, having a lot of people for dinner can be challenging.

But the city is used to it! :)

And many Stockholmers that live in city apartments have a "summer house", outside the city, that they use all year round (if possible).
 
Christmas day and our last full day in Stockholm. After a Christmas morning sleep in we had a walk and some snowball fights on the waterfront.

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In the evening we headed to Skansen, the open air museum, which for the winter season had set up a trail of light displays with music. The displays were fantastic and extra magical in the snow.
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Boxing day we head to Kiruna in northern Sweden for the next leg of our journey.
 
Travel day today, flying to Kiruna with SAS. Domestic flights in Sweden with SAS are fairly basic, with service levels snd baggage being optional add ons, not dissimilar to JQ (for example). As I wanted to have refundable tickets, we bought the SAS plus package, which in addition to being refundable comes with lounge access, check in baggage, fast track and a light meal on the flight. SAS fly out of T5 in Stockholm. I had already checked in online but still needed to print bag tags and drop the bags at self service counters. Fast track security was indeed fast and soon we were in and looking for the lounge. With zero signs and no maps, we had to google the lounge location but eventually got there. The terminal was undergoing major works, which will hopefully include improved signage.

SAS had two separate lounges; a Gold lounge for premium members (not us) and another lounge to which people like us who bought plus tickets had access. The lounge was simple but certainly not the worst I have ever been in with reasonably comfortable chairs, wine and beer and decent food, although mainly cold cuts. Not surprisingly no barista, but coffee from a machine. A perfectly acceptable place to spend a few hours.

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On arrival at the gate, it was evident our flight was running slightly late, as at boarding time there was no actual plane in sight. Nonetheless the board indicated we would only be 10 minutes late, which seemed ambitious. Luggage was sitting in trolleys (in the snow!) waiting to be loaded, which according to my airtags included all our bags. A short time later the incoming plane arrived.

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Despite the fact our plane arrived only about 15 mins before our scheduled departure time we ultimately pushed back only 15 mins late. Impressive turn around time.
 
When i landed at Kiruna it was -27c! Feeling the hair in your nostrils is a strange sensation 😅 everyone was getting photos of the temperature display after getting off the plane. Hopefully you’ll get a good display of the northern lights 🤞
Yes a relatively balmy -14 when we arrived. Last time we were in Kiruna (23 years ago) it was -30. Cloudy last night but forecast better for tonight and tomorrow for northern lights. Crossed fingers as ShellyB-son has never seen them
 
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The original Icehotel is a short bus ride from Kiruna, and worthy of a visit, even without staying. For those unfamiliar with the Icehotel, it is basically a gigantic igloo, although the base structure is metal with ice packed over the base each year. Inside it is divided into multiple bedrooms, all of which have beds made of ice covered in reindeer skin. The rooms are either fairly basic, with some simple sculptures, or are individually decorated in ice by local and international artists. The whole thing is built around November then melts again in the spring.

Mr ShelleyB and I stayed here last time we were up this way, but really once was enough. We were happy to be day visitors and just admire the rooms and the art. The rooms are just amazing and worth the time visiting each one.

Tomorrow we are off on overnight dogsled tour, staying in a cabin out of town. Probably our best chance of seeing northern lights.

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The opportunity to go dogsledding and spend a night out in a cabin was one of the big reasons for choosing Sweden as a replacement for Egypt and Jordan. Mr ShelleyB and I had done a similar tour when we were up here many years ago, and as a souvenir had purchased a soft toy husky which we named Henrik after our guide. In the intervening years Henrik became a favourite of ShelleyB-son and was re-christened Doggie. And of course ShelleyB-son was familiar with the story of how we came to possess Doggie.

Perhaps not surprisingly, our previous guide, who was not young 23 years ago, did not appear to be in the dogsledding business anymore. The business itself appeared to be run by his children, but snowmobiles were used in the place of dogs. After consulting reviews, we decided upon Arctic Dogsled Adventure. The premise seemed similar, driving your own sled out to cabins to spend the night, then driving back again the next day.

We were collected from the hotel after lunch, and driven to the kennels where we suited up like the Michelin family before assisting with harnessing and hitching dogs. Mr BB and I were again reminded how strong the dogs were as it was hard work even controlling one from kennel to sled. For our trip we had 3 sleds - 4 dogs and a light sled for me, just transporting our ovenight bags; 5 dogs for Mr.ShelleyB to drive, with ShelleyB son as the passenger, and 4 dogs for our guide. As it’s dark by 2pm, our trip out would be in the dark, with only headlamps for light. After the usual quick instructions from the guide, who always seem to imagine we are super-fast learners and not at all nervous of driving dogs in arctic conditions, we headed off.

The first bit out of the kennels is probably the most challenging terrain with a big hill requiring the driver to jump off and run behind (but not let go of the sled!) and some tight turns which were quite challenging in my light under-loaded sled and thus always the concern of tipping over. As we went along I felt I got the hang of it a bit more, and uphill bits welcome for the opportunity to run and keep feet from freezing.

After about an hour driving through snowy woods, and along and over the frozen Torne River we arrived at the cabins. First duty is to axe frozen meat into small portions and mix with boiling water to make a meaty slurry for the dogs. Of course there was wood to be chopped for the fire and water to be fetched from an ice hole by the river. Our guide graciously made dinner, introduced ShelleyB-son to Smores over the campfire, and kept us company before a relatively early night.

Next morning was all in reverse, with dogs requiring feeding at least 2 hours before sledding back home.

An amazing experience which we will not forget in a hurry. And of course we have sourced another soft toy husky from a local toy shop, which in keeping with tradition we have named Linnea after our guide.

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