Tips for family travel to Machu Picchu May 2018?

[Straubs]

Hi all,

I am in the very EARLY stages of planning a trip to celebrate a big birthday for Mr Straubs, who has always wanted to see Machu Picchu.
His birthday is in mid-May and I would like to take him and the two children, +/- one of my parents (has good mobility).

One of the reasons we've never gone (apart from having a young family) is that we often get sidetracked thinking of all the other things we'd want to do when in South America, and hence the trip gets bigger than Ben Hur in our minds.
I thought maybe it would be smart to cut it down to a good visit to just one area, and see the amazing things in that area - probably 10 days on the ground.
The children are 5 and 12 - both very well behaved boys ... perhaps both sometimes overly cautious, if anything. Ways to minimise the long travel in one sitting might be good for all of us though!

While business travel would be lovely, I think with 5 people and only a fairly lowly number of QF points, this trip would add to the opportunities to build points and SCs, not use them.
I'm open to building balances with non-QF schemes.
To get this trip happening, I think economy is more likely, but open to ideas about creative ways to make this work.

More info: we live in a northern Australian regional centre - flight options are daily and varied, but from what I've seen, quite often getting a flight to Sydney can result in cheaper travel options than going from Brisbane - at least in many cases?

To get to the point ... does anyone have tips about travel to this area (Cuzco etc) i.e. - flight routes, stopovers if necessary, good or bad airlines, ways to minimise taxes, good options to stay locally that are relatively affordable, tips about going to the area with kids would be an added bonus. Really any tips at all about South American travel would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[kpc]

The one thing to think about is altitude sickness. It can strike anyone irrespective of age and level of fitness. Cusco, where you land is the gateway to the Sacred Valley and MP, is 3399 metres and you will be most at risk here. I would recommend on arrival to Cusco airport, not to stay at Cusco, but to take a hotel car / taxi to Ollantaytambo (2792 metes) and stay there for at least a couple of days to adjust to the altitude. 600 metres does not seem a lot but it makes a big difference if you have alttitude sickness, which I got terribly at Cusco. Ollantaytambo is the last town you can get to by road. From here, there are many trains to MP (2430m) where you will be fine! By the time you return to Cusco, your body should be used to the altitude. I went to MP in 2012 so my info is probably a little dated now so I'll leave it to others who have been more recently to advise more.

ps some take Diamox (a diuretic) to avoid altitude sickness but I didn't even though I had the tablets as I did not want to pee non stop . Seek medical advice prior to your trip.

 

[Straubs]

Oh thats good advice - especially considering kids etc
Did you feel the altitude sickness immediately or with time?

 

[Deleted member]

Mrs GPH did this trip (quarry trail) last December and suffered very badly for the whole of her trip.
Whilst I haven't done the trip (yet) I'm thinking (as an over 60yo) will be doing some acclimatization for a few days first, and the. Take the train. (I believe there are two options, one is very much in the first class vein) . And stay at the resort hotel up there. Otherwise get onto your local gym and start training and consider altitude trading the closer you get to the departure date. I believe that some may actually not suffer as badly as others (from altitude sickness) so it could be a bit hit and miss . I think it's an amazing opportunity and would not want any negative comments deter you from this amazing adventure.

 

[Straubs]

Thanks GPH! I won't let me put it off but its important to consider it well in advance. The train sounds very good - haven't done much reading on it but, needless to say, don't think we'll be doing the very first class option

 

[Milboo]

If you want to accrue to QFF then your option is essentially to fly QF to Santiago - it's a direct flight from SYD. I'm not a QF fan at the best of times but I'd chose it over LAN on the same route.

From here, connect to Lima and then across to Cusco on LAN.

No doubt there are options in via the US.

We landed in Cusco and immediately transferred to the Sacred Valley. I didn't notice the altitude but it hit my friend the minute we left the airport.

We stayed in Urubumba at the Belmond Hotel which was gorgeous. We spent a day there before we headed up to Machu Picchu - catching the Vistadome (the mid of the 3 trains) from Oly (our guide collected us and came with us). It was nice to only go back to Oly after a full day vs all the way to Cusco.

We then went to Cusco after we had adjusted more - Cusco is higher than MP. Spent a couple of days there. We drove into Sacred Valley via one route and left via the Pisac route.

I did start taking diamox as a precaution - start low dose as it does make you pee more and can get tingly in feet.

My tip is that it gets hot up on MP so don't forget water, hats and sunscreen. Also bug spray is important. I got bitten and it took weeks and a lot of itching for them to go away.

 

[Straubs]

Great tips Milboo - thanks! Will keep my options open for points accumulation options as I have only just had my eyes opened to the wider world of points thanks to AFF.

But in some ways the Syd-Santiago flight seems somewhat manageable compared to long stopover options ...

 

[lovetravellingoz]

Have not been..

But this seems to be a reasonable read:
How to Travel to Machu Picchu, Peru | Travel + Leisure

 

[lovetravellingoz]

Oh thats good advice - especially considering kids etc
Did you feel the altitude sickness immediately or with time?

I have not been there, but I have often trekked at altitudes of up to 5700m. Enjoying yourself at altitude is safe as long as you follow the rules.

As kpc indicated landing at and staying at over 3000m is not a good idea. So descending to sleep and acclimatise would be prudent.

AMS strikes randomly re age and fitness levels. People can and do die from it and so should be taken seriously. it is not just a matter of getting headaches.

Proper acclimatisation is the best procedure to follow. Diamox is not a substitute for proper acclimatisation.


Read up on the symptons and if anyone in your party exhibits them drop in altitude.


Altitude or Mountain Sickness - The Travel Doctor

 

[RooFlyer]

Oh thats good advice - especially considering kids etc
Did you feel the altitude sickness immediately or with time?

Altitude sickness will 'hit' almost immediately at Cusco, if it is going to, if you don't take it very easy when landing there. Starting Diamox the day before is a good precaution, but don't rely on it.

I'd say exactly the same things as kpc; although there are good accommodation options all along the Sacred Valley (I see you've gone through my TR, so you've seen that we turned right, not left when we hit the Sacred Valley).

The main other tip I would give is to give yourself two opportunities to visit MP - say the afternoon of the day you arrive, and then the following morning, just in case the weather is rainy/cloudy on one or the other.

Try hard for the Vistadome train option, Ollantaytambo-Aguas Calientes (Machu-Picchu town), if not return to Lima as well. The rail is obviously low down in the (steep) valley and not to optimise the views of the scenery would be a shame. At MP, plan to go to the Inca Bridge - its an extra walk on the site, but views are good and you'll probably meet a friendly llama or two!

If you are queasy about being in a plane close to mountains, don't get window seats on the flight Lima-Cusco! Boarding on LAN flights tends to be a bit scrum, so always try to manoeuvre your group close to the scanning point.

 

[Bundy Bear]

I am not suggesting to book this but this link might give you some ideas.

https://www.tripadeal.com.au/deals/1504-10-day-highlights-of-peru

 

[Straubs]

It will be great to benefit from all of your experiences, and I now have no doubt we'll move straight down into the Sacred Valley on arrival. The good news is I do have medical training, so I will be able to recognise the signs, but the bad news is that I have zero experience treating someone with altitude sickness. From my training, I know diamox or frusemide is only one part of the management, but it can be lethal due to the brain swelling, so we will take it very seriously if anyone in our party is showing signs and I will contact local medical services if there are any concerns.

It's still a very exciting prospect ... sounds like the actual MP visit would be only one part of the joy of such a trip. I found this much like my trip to the Grand Canyon - I was so worried that after seeing it, nothing else would be exciting on the trip. But then we went to Monument Valley, Canyonlands, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks, and each was more beautiful than the last. Also, it will be good for my kids to see a whole other way of life.

 

[Straubs]

Bundy Bear - that does give me some ideas of travel times/options etc - thanks!

 

[lovetravellingoz]

The good news is I do have medical training, so I will be able to recognise the signs, but the bad news is that I have zero experience treating someone with altitude sickness..

1/ The most important thing is to drop altitude, drop altitude, drop altitude... Those I have seen afflicted in Nepal and Mt Blanc gained almost immediate relief unless it is allowed to progress to a more critical stage.

My wife over a 35 year period of alpine hikes never suffered any AMS symptoms except mild ones when we were at 5700m on one trip 30 years ago. At Annupurna Base Camp (ABC) 4100m two years ago she was also fine.

But in the Mont Blanc Region last year she also suffered some minor signs when we caught one of the cable cars to Grand Montets 3275m after having only one night in Chamonix 1035m (we were in Burgundy before that). So that is a rapid gain of 2200 m. As soon as we dropped altitude she was fin again. The next day we hike at a lower altitude.

Two days later at 3842 at the Aguille du Midi she was fine with at that altitude for several hours. So with adequate acclimatisation she has never had a problem.

While there I noted a number of people who were feeling the affects of the sudden altitude gain (2800m!). Many people do the Aguille du Midi as a daytrip from places a lot lower than Chamonix and so it is no wonder you see a few people struggling. however none of them stay at that altitude. They just stay a short period in the main.


2/ Make sure that others in your party can recognise the symptoms too as it may be you that is afflicted.

Those afflicted tend to want to push on. I met a solo travelling Korean on the way up to ABC and he was in quite a bad way , vomiting etc and he was not that willing to accept my advice that he needed to turn back and drop altitude. He was not that fluent in english, but I located some other Kopreans and advised them that they should recommend to their countrymen to drop altitude quickly.

 

[Straubs]

1/ The most important thing is to drop altitude, drop altitude, drop altitude... Those I have seen afflicted in Nepal and Mt Blanc gained almost immediate relief unless it is allowed to progress to a more critical stage.

My wife over a 35 year period of alpine hikes never suffered any AMS symptoms except mild ones when we were at 5700m on one trip 30 years ago. At Annupurna Base Camp (ABC) 4100m two years ago she was also fine.

But in the Mont Blanc Region last year she also suffered some minor signs when we caught one of the cable cars to Grand Montets 3275m after having only one night in Chamonix 1035m (we were in Burgundy before that). So that is a rapid gain of 2200 m. As soon as we dropped altitude she was fin again. The next day we hike at a lower altitude.

Two days later at 3842 at the Aguille du Midi she was fine with at that altitude for several hours. So with adequate acclimatisation she has never had a problem.

While there I noted a number of people who were feeling the affects of the sudden altitude gain (2800m!). Many people do the Aguille du Midi as a daytrip from places a lot lower than Chamonix and so it is no wonder you see a few people struggling. however none of them stay at that altitude. They just stay a short period in the main.


2/ Make sure that others in your party can recognise the symptoms too as it may be you that is afflicted.

Those afflicted tend to want to push on. I met a solo travelling Korean on the way up to ABC and he was in quite a bad way , vomiting etc and he was not that willing to accept my advice that he needed to turn back and drop altitude. He was not that fluent in english, but I located some other Kopreans and advised them that they should recommend to their countrymen to drop altitude quickly.

Lovetravellingoz - I can't tell you how much I appreciate this advice - its very easy to be blase and feel `it won't happen to me', and yet it makes so much sense that it could and would.
It hadn't even occurred to me that I would be the one affected - I promise that's not a medico-style `God complex', just that when you are used to doing the sentinel-style monitoring of others, it doesn't occur to you that you could be the one at risk. Your post is a timely reminder of everything that needs consideration.
We will need to have cash at hand and plans in place in case we need to bail out, especially since we will have travellers of every age with us.
I'm glad your wife was alright too. Sounds very scary but I note you seemed well prepared and aware.

As for the Korean traveller, I've certainly been in environments where, as a doctor, I could see someone at risk or in need of medical help, but who wasn't in their right mind to help themselves or agree. In many cases, this is the scariest situation of all for those looking on.
Thanks again.

 

[lovetravellingoz]

. Sounds very scary but I note you seemed well prepared and aware.

.

It is not really that scarey if you are aware and follow the acclimatisation rules, including to not keep gaining altitude if afflicted.

It is mainly a problem with the foolish, the ignorant or the ill-informed.

For example many in Nepal will fly into Lukla trying to get to places at about 5500 odd m within a trip period of two weeks. A lot of it seems driven to service the USA market who only have 2 weeks of annual leave and unfortunately the travel industry their services demand over prudence.

My observation was virtually everyone who allowed enough time to acclimatise reached their goals. But of those trying to rush it only about 1 in 3 did.

One foolish person from the USA who funded his holidays by getting groups of 10 (so he then gained a free airfare hotels for himself) landed his group at Lukla and instead of dropping to a lower location for the first night ascended his party up to Namche Bazaar that first night (where we were) causing a medical emergency where 9 of the 10 Japanese work colleagues of the guy from the USA were very ill. The oldest person in the group in his 70s was the only one not affected.

 

[amaroo]

Allocate plenty of time to see the Sacred Valley - it's just as impressive as MP IMO. We had three nights in the Valley and I wouldn't recommend any less than that. We stayed two nights at MP and thought that was perfect, but if you're time poor I'd prioritise extra nights at Sacred Valley.

How long is your trip and do you want to see other things i.e. Lake Titicaca ?

 

[love_the_life]

Sorry, I posted a reply on the other thread. When we were in Cusco, we both felt a bit light-headed but MrLtLwas fine after he had eaten (me not so much but not enough to make things too unpleasant). In hindsight though it probably would have been better to base ourselves in the Sacred Valley. As MP is likely to be a once in a lifetime trip if possible I would look at staying at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge which is just outside the gates (I am making the assumption that you are not intending to do the inca Trail into MP). This allows maximum time to explore MP itself. It is the most amazing place. We did an add on to the Amazon as well which was fun and the kids may enjoy that. The agency we used organised everything and was excellent if you don't want to do your own bookings etc.

 

[RooFlyer]

It will be great to benefit from all of your experiences, and I now have no doubt we'll move straight down into the Sacred Valley on arrival. The good news is I do have medical training, so I will be able to recognise the signs, but the bad news is that I have zero experience treating someone with altitude sickness. From my training, I know diamox or frusemide is only one part of the management, but it can be lethal due to the brain swelling, so we will take it very seriously if anyone in our party is showing signs and I will contact local medical services if there are any concerns.

It's still a very exciting prospect ... sounds like the actual MP visit would be only one part of the joy of such a trip. I found this much like my trip to the Grand Canyon - I was so worried that after seeing it, nothing else would be exciting on the trip. But then we went to Monument Valley, Canyonlands, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks, and each was more beautiful than the last. Also, it will be good for my kids to see a whole other way of life.

Plus realise that the tourist industry there is very used to the altitude sickness issue. Most reputable operators will be alert to the issue in their clients. We stayed at the Novotel in Cusco and on check-in they told us first about their earthquake evacuation procedures, then how they had oxygen on demand.

Oh, do the kids have guinea pigs as pets?

 

[kpc]

Don't be embarrassed to ask for oxygen...I foolishly waited till the 2nd morning to ask the hotel reception. Within 30 seconds of supplemental oxygen, ALL my symptoms disappeared!! Some of the higher end hotels actually pipe oxygen into rooms. If you stay in the Sacred Valley on arrival, you will likely avoid the problems of altitude sickness in Cusco....everything can be organised and booked online yourself and you will save a bundle. Make sure you get the tickets to MP ASAP as they sell out and I agree with RF above that 2 visits should be planned eg afternoon and following morning.