The Galapagos of the Southern Ocean

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JohnM

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Tomorrow it’s onto the bird to head over to CHC xBNE to start a voyage on Sunday from DUD to the Southern Ocean for almost two weeks. Destination: the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand and Macquarie Island, and touted as the Galapagos of the Southern Ocean.

The return will be to IVC, then to CHC and on to PER-xSYD.

I picked up a good QF J special return to CHC, although QF subsequently downgauged the A330 to a B738 PER-BNE, and the short internal flights will be on NZ in whY-only birds.

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We did this cruise plus extension to Antarctica 2010/11.You should enjoy Macquarie Island a delightful part of Tasmania.
 
Sounds fascinating! Looking forward to reading about it. A little bit easier to get to than the actual Galapagos too!
 
There is a lot of sea time in that voyage
 
Back home after an excellent voyage. The weather was on our side, although the seas were quite rough a lot of the time. A lot of people were seasick. Fortunately, that is something that doesn’t affect me.

We slotted in between two storms, the first being strong and producing a large swell with an unusual easterly component. The ship corkscrewed about in messy seas on the long run south to Macquarie Island (‘Macca’ to the station staff), but it was not intolerable by any means.

All landings were on the eastern shore of the islands, so with the unusual swell direction it was a bit hairy getting into and out of the Zodiacs at time and necessitating some atypical rear-first landings. The easterly swell had also played some havoc with the beach on the east side of Macquarie Island, throwing up a lot of kelp.

We achieved all planned excursions and the first and main day on Macca (arguably the highlight destination of the trip) visiting the king penguins came with the bonus of being the best weather day of the whole trip. Fine, sunny and windless - it could not have been more perfect.

Back to the beginning.

The flight to BNE took us just S of KGI and a good view of the Superpit and the town.

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Next day BNE-CHC and some good views coming in to CHC late in the day.

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I stayed overnight in downtown CHC as I was keen to scope the city post the February 2011 earthquake. A massive reconstruction has seen a transformation to many new, modern-style buildings but there is still a long way to go and many vacant plots of land where buildings once stood.

The cathedral is still a mess. Signs proclaimed that rebuilding will start in 2020. Other old buildings remained propped up.

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Then out of CHC to Dunedin (DUD) in a NZ ATR72.

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Next morning it was getting the show proper under way.

First a tug had to slew the vessel around some nearby dredging operations to point down-harbour. Dunedin has a long (and wind-tunnel) estuary to traverse before clearing the heads and dropping off the pilot.

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The pilot shoots through and a dolphin escort moves in.

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The bridge and the last of mainland NZ, followed by lifeboat drill.

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Carrying on S and some views around the ship. It only takes 50 pax.

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The Snares.

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The expedition leader heads off to recce the situation. Landings are not permitted on The Snares. Yuri, one of the Russian crewmen whom I had met on the Wrangel Island voyage waiting at the top of the gangway to be Zodiac-loading helper. Great guy and an ace - and fast - Zodiac driver.

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The endemic Snares crested penguin, one of many and in some cases rare endemic species we were to encounter. Dinky, slow camera is poor for decent wildlife pics, especially from a bobbing Zodiac in gloomy light.

A NZ sea lion approached but the little guys just kept backing away.

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A moai-like rock and a lion-head shape.

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We were constantly shadowed by various species of albatross and other pelagic seabirds, for which these waters are renowned. Occasionally, an albatross would ‘land’ on the water. It’s a bit of an effort for them to take off.

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Next day was the Auckland Islands group, with a landing on the northernmost, Enderby Island. Yellow-eyed penguins and NZ sea lions welcomed us ashore.

We had almost the full day available to take one of several options of just kicking about around the sandy beach area, walking to the W side of the island on the boardwalk or adding to the latter and doing a serious overland hike around the coast to return to the beach landing area. I chose the latter for a 15 click stretch of the legs. It was serious going in places. It was amazing where sea lions had crawled to in the scrub and a bit of a shock to almost tread on them in places.

The sub-Antarctic islands are famed for their ‘megaherbs’ – very large-leafed flowering plants.

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We then moved overnight to the S end of much larger Auckland Island and into a large sheltered bay called Carnley Harbour. It has a rich history, notably being the site of a coastwatch station during WW2.

It was a few weeks too early for the southern rata forest to be at peak bloom. It must be spectacular then.

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