First Trip to Hong Kong aboard VA J class

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clipped_wings

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I can't tell you how excited I was when we booked this trip last year. Husband is scheduled for knee replacement surgery in May, so we thought we'd have some fun with his old knees and really spend some quality time wearing them out.

Hong Kong was a last frontier for me. Husband had been a few times in his youth, but it was never a priority for us as a family - it just didn't hold the same appeal as the more commercially attractive Disneyland style holidays we do with our kids. But Virgin's fares were pretty appealing in November so we booked a few days away and closed the business, telling customers we were attending a convention, wink wink.

Now, I've read so much about Hong Kong in the last few months, that I almost felt a familiar kinship. But nothing on Earth can prepare you for the cultural collision and I was a fool to expect anything less than a huge lesson in humility when we walked the streets of this incredible city.

The story so far:

Outbound: 1 x night accommodation at The Stamford Sydney Aiport then SYD-MEL-HKG in J class, 2 x nights at the Intercontinental Grand Stanford in Hong Kong. Return flights: HKG-MEL-SYD in J class.
All components in itinerary paid in cash and all flights with Virgin Australia.

We left the Central Coast on Sunday afternoon and travelled to Sydney in our daughter's car. The rather intimate configuration of 3 grown adults in a Mitsubishi Mirage (complete with luggage) is not for the weak and I almost felt like one of those goofy clowns disembarking a VW Beetle in some creepy circus when she dropped us at the intersection near the Stamford Hotel across from Sydney Domestic Airport. It was the windiest day I have ever seen and we were attacked by killer palm fronds that had broken loose from the Hotel's garden and were now deadly projectiles - whipping around the pedestrian crossing as we made our way. I swear - it was positively scary and I was relieved when we finally managed to slip inside the glass doors and relax before our early morning connection to Melbourne. We were booked on VA800 at 6am, which would get us safely into Melbourne by 7:30am and provide plenty of time to enjoy the hospitality of the Etihad Lounge before our scheduled 10am flight on VA87.

The Stamford Hotel overlooks part of Sydney Domestic Airport (mostly the carpark) but our top floor room - although basic, had a great view and I spent much of the evening watching planes come and go. It is a regular "night before" stop for us, as the last thing we need is a smash/truck fire/roadworks on the M1 when we have an early flight.

Climbed into bed at 9pm, excited for what the next 4 days held.........

The first hiccup came around 01:27. I got a text from VA, announcing that VA87 would be delayed. Our new departure time from Melbourne would be 13:25. Bugger. I read the text and went back to sleep.

Awoke again at 4am and headed over to the Virgin Australia Premium Lounge around 5am for a coffee. As we now had time to kill, our original 6am departure seemed a trifle early. There was an A332 at 06:30 so I asked if we could be moved to that flight. No problem they said. So that took the sting out of our second sector delay :D

Approached the departure gate well after boarding was called, so straight onto the plane. VA804 departed on time and in luxurious form. My first impression of this baby, is that she is quiet and very compact. Certainly a superior J cabin than the B737, but Business Class is slightly scaled down from the B777 and there is no on board bar. Seats 1A and 1K appear to host the 2 bassinet provisions. I had chosen 3A/4A for our Hong Kong leg, but for this shorter flight - we were placed 1A/D and it was a great thing. Mainly because I can now say with confidence that I don't like centre seats in Business and I shall avoid them in future. My husband had his back to me the whole flight as he gleefully gazed out his 2 windows to an azure sky and meringue clouds.

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Our cabin crew showed every courtesy throughout the entire flight. I forgot her name, but the young woman who looked after us was impeccable. Nothing was too much trouble and she seemed genuinely interested in our holiday plans. Imagine having to show that same interest to EVERY person you meet in a day. A tough gig, even on a good day. I take my hat off to her.

I passed the offer of breakfast and simply enjoyed a nice coffee and some shut eye while we glided towards Melbourne...........

More to follow.
 
After a fabulous first flight from Sydney, we touched down at Melbourne and were greeted by an avalanche of people in the terminal. Most of them were wearing Spandex. I can only assume it was a throng of athletes from the Commonwealth Games. They may be Gold medal material on a track, but when it came to moving through an airport, they were not even in the race. What a bunch of snails. It was absolute bedlam and their shiny buttocks were no match for our sprightly middle aged spread as we sprinted from Domestic to International. We found the hallowed halls of the Etihad Lounge and slipped into our home for the next 4 hours.

When 4 became 5 and 5 became 6, I decided to have a shower. We'd been up since the crack of dawn and I always enjoy the amenities in airport lounges. Probably because I don't have to clean up after myself. Whatever. My valet was a perfectly presented gentleman who provided fresh, fluffy towels and an oasis for me to indulge. The bathrooms here are gorgeous and the epitome of good taste. High end toiletries and all the time you want to enjoy them. No kids banging on the door, no husband asking me where are his brown socks. Just me and unlimited hot water. I was in Heaven.

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Boarding was finally called at 14:00 so we made our way to Gate 11 for what we assumed would be Priority Boarding and the continuation of our fabulous Business Class experience. What greeted us at the gate, was a plane load of very irate passengers who had obviously been waiting in lesser digs than our Etihad Lounge chairs. They were angry. And tired. And there was no way on God's earth they were letting some pompous snots with Business Class tags get in front of them. The ground staff had realised they were outnumbered, so they did very little apart from asking a few passengers to stop pushing.
I was too scared to challenge, so we stayed back in line and figured our seats would more than make up for Hiccup #2

Pushback was around 14.40 - certainly not the 10am we had booked, but at least the flight wasn't cancelled.

And what a flight it was! Flight crew began their divine service as soon as we sat down. I just fell in love with my 3A suite and just couldn't help popping my head over to husband in 4A to giggle at our good fortune. The 2 windows gave me plenty of panoramic views and the delay was a distant memory as we climbed into the clouds.

Next installment: dinner and snack service
 
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There's something quite decadent about a white tablecloth at 39,000 feet. I feel like I am in Journey to the Centre of the Earth and Jules Verne is responsible for the decor. Your table is set with great aplomb. It's over the top and one of those moments where you actually feel famous/beautiful or really rich. Now I am nought for three - so I soaked up this experience with the mindset of a small child at Christmas. Everything they brought me was met with an "Ooooh" or an "Ahhhh" and I'm sure they thought I was good value for their ego. I thanked them for everything and unlike a small child - I ate everything on my plate.

Dinner began with garlic bread (ate before I remembered to photo it sorry) followed by a delicious starter of Sichuan Chicken Noodle Soup. Slightly spicy kick but very simple and a brilliant addition to their menu.

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Next was the main: I chose the braised Beef Short Rib with mustard tarragon potatoes/heirloom carrots/dukkah and salsa verde. The photo doesn't do this dish justice. The beef was slow roasted to perfection and it fell apart. I love braised vegetables and these were very tender, but just enough crunch. The generous serve was filling and delicious.
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I always choose a cheese plate for dessert, so I knew what to expect for my last dish. It delivered a very cleansing finale - although I am a rat when it comes to choosing a drink to complement my food and I defend my right to claim a Scotch and Dry was the perfect choice. Or, possibly it was the 3rd Scotch that made me think it was.

'Nuff said.

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My
After a fabulous first flight from Sydney, we touched down at Melbourne and were greeted by an avalanche of people in the terminal. Most of them were wearing Spandex. I can only assume it was a throng of athletes from the Commonwealth Games. They may be Gold medal material on a track, but when it came to moving through an airport, they were not even in the race. What a bunch of snails. It was absolute bedlam and their shiny buttocks were no match for our sprightly middle aged spread as we sprinted from Domestic to International. We found the hallowed halls of the Etihad Lounge and slipped into our home for the next 4 hours.

When 4 became 5 and 5 became 6, I decided to have a shower. We'd been up since the crack of dawn and I always enjoy the amenities in airport lounges. Probably because I don't have to clean up after myself. Whatever. My valet was a perfectly presented gentleman who provided fresh, fluffy towels and an oasis for me to indulge. The bathrooms here are gorgeous and the epitome of good taste. High end toiletries and all the time you want to enjoy them. No kids banging on the door, no husband asking me where are his brown socks. Just me and unlimited hot water. I was in Heaven.

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Boarding was finally called at 14:00 so we made our way to Gate 11 for what we assumed would be Priority Boarding and the continuation of our fabulous Business Class experience. What greeted us at the gate, was a plane load of very irate passengers who had obviously been waiting in lesser digs than our Etihad Lounge chairs. They were angry. And tired. And there was no way on God's earth they were letting some pompous snots with Business Class tags get in front of them. The ground staff had realised they were outnumbered, so they did very little apart from asking a few passengers to stop pushing.
I was too scared to challenge, so we stayed back in line and figured our seats would more than make up for Hiccup #2

Pushback was around 14.40 - certainly not the 10am we had booked, but at least the flight wasn't cancelled.

And what a flight it was! Flight crew began their divine service as soon as we sat down. I just fell in love with my 3A suite and just couldn't help popping my head over to husband in 4A to giggle at our good fortune. The 2 windows gave me plenty of panoramic views and the delay was a distant memory as we climbed into the clouds.

Next installment: dinner and snack service
Thanks for the giggles, even my husband laughing as I read this to him.
 
Loving your writing style also - I await the next instalment.
 
Wonderful report so far. I love your writing style - humorous, entertaining and self effacing - a great combination :) Have a wonderful trip. My last stay at IC HK was a few years ago, but the club lounge and harbour view room was memorable.
 
I'm not gay. But if I was - I would fly Virgin Australia purely for the eye candy. I have never seen so many examples of human perfection in one place. I think I fell in love with someone called Rebecca. Is that wrong? She was an angel and she looked after our row with the most beautiful disposition. Ever attentive and always happy. Drop dead gorgeous too. Virgin sure know how to select their cabin crew. I wonder if they have an elimination process? Or a production line, where the airbrushed Chosen Few are sorted from the Fuglies. Call me superficial. Call me shallow. If you're reading this Rebecaa - just call me.

Anyway, back to the flight. I had promised myself that I would try to stay awake for the whole flight, as we were supposed to touch down at 18:00 and I could then sleep well the first night in our hotel. The trouble was, our flight was now much later than anticipated, so I began to get quite tired around halfway. Maybe it was the altitude. Maybe it was the 3 scotches. All I know, is that someone came and made up my bed and it looked very inviting. I lay down and that was the end of me until supper.

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Awoken by my cheeky husband who thought it would be funny to stick a plastic straw up my sleeping nose. What a catch ladies.......
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How I managed to drill up a hunger after my gargantuan dinner - I'll never know. But let's just say I was glad I wore my stretchy pants.

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The snack service was choice from a rather comprehensive selection. In true Asian spirit I decided on the dumplings plate. I make my own, so I consider myself a bit of a dumpling connoisseur. And these were right up there. The cappuccino was silky smooth. The sweets were just that. And the passionfruit muffin really was that big. Elaine from Seinfeld would have been proud - all I could manage was the muffin top.

By now it was time to prepare for landing. One of my favourite pastimes is watching the trip on the flight map. Sometimes I'll leave the screen on as I read or do a crossword. I love the perspective and orientation it provides. And the flight data is fun to know. But my husband had recalled the almost ridiculous practice in the 80's of planes flying in between buildings to access Hong Kong's old runways. And how scary it was. Nowadays Hong Kong X is located on some man made island just off the mainIand. I was glad it had moved, but I was still uneasy at the altitude (or lack thereof) as we approached a runway that was completely obliterated by thick cloud. Or fog. Or pollution. Either way, we were flying on a wing and a prayer because I couldn't see anything. However my fears were unfounded - we suddenly popped out from the pea soup and there she was! Hong Kong blinked her beautiful eyes and welcomed us with open arms as we slid down from the sky to a textbook landing.

First impression of Hong Kong?

I didn't care to be honest. By the time we cleared Customs it was almost midnight - which was 2am Sydney time and all I wanted to do was sleep. I'll explore her tomorrow.........
 
Many people stick to a brand that they know and love. For many reasons, but among them is the logic that you always know what you're getting. Virgin Australia is one example. Eating Macca's in a strange city is another.

The Intercontinental is usually our first choice in hotel accommodation. I am a big fan of their Australian offerings, therefore it was a no brainer for us when we were selecting somewhere with harbour views in Kowloon. We had done some research and discovered that the larger Intercontinental Hotel Tsim Sha Tsui was undergoing substantial renovation during our stay, so we decided on the more modest Intercontinental Grand Stanford - further around but still great views and more updated rooms.

We booked a King Bed Grand Premier Full Harbour View room. I had rang from the Etihad Lounge to advise them that we would be delayed and to confirm our booking, so we were relaxed in the knowledge that our room was waiting. The hotel lobby is typically decked out in the usual decor - lots of gold, deep mahogany hues and lush velvet accents. Very 1990's and a complete contradiction to some of the more hip, upscale versions we know in Oz. Check in was smooth, but it seemed to lack the warmth we are used to. There was no recognition of Mr Clipped's status as a loyal customer, and they got our booking wrong. They had assigned us 2 double beds. Now, without making all of you cringe, we weren't happy with that, er.....arrangement. We politely declined the offer and implored them to reinstate our original request for a King Bed sin bin.

So, up to the 12th floor we went. Room 1235 didn't disappoint. It was exceptionally clean, modern and quite spacious for hotel standards. The view to Hong Kong was amazing. I watched a small flotilla of boats slowly meandering back and forth, their illuminated pyramid-like structures giving the impression of fairy lit Christmas trees floating across the dark mass.

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After a thoroughly decent sleep, we enjoyed a buffet breakfast in the Hotel's Cafe on M restaurant. I am a huge fan of Chinese food, so I headed straight for the dumplings and noodle counter. I dropped my dignity at the door and proceeded to make them regret that they'd put up an "All you can Eat" sign.

We rolled out of breakfast and hit the streets for a full day of exploration on foot. The weather was overcast, but a pleasant 23 degrees, so it was perfect walking temperature.

Kowloon is a juxtaposition in every sense of the word. One minute you are wandering through an immense and very elaborate high end shopping mall. Without warning or apology, it suddenly spits you out into an ancient, throbbing commercial district with cheap neon signs and bamboo hoardings. It's loud, crowded and a shock to the senses. Like being plunged into icy water, my nostrils took a startled gasp. And promptly shut up shop. The scent of street food, emulsified with what can only be described as effluent - permeated the air. I was ill-prepared and immediately bore the crown of a First Time Tourist as I scrambled for my hankechief.

Not wishing to appear rude, I kept trying to hold my head high and think of something else. It took a reasonable 4 hours of this before I became accustomed to the scented air and could confidently walk without gagging. I am ashamed to admit that. But it would be vain of me to assume anyone in this part of town cared, or noticed for that matter. They have places to go. And they are going there very fast. All either talking on their phone, or looking at their phone. And, like all city dwellers - they have mastered the impossible art of walking/talking/texting and sidestepping without looking up.

Beyond this introductory experience we spent a beautiful first day wandering the area. I loved the vibrant atmosphere and the architectural clash in contrasts. We ducked into skinny laneways to discover small pop up shops with wildly coloured scarves and other enticing wares. We browsed and did some solid sightseeing. Some areas were positively aromatic and I was tempted to stop and graze. But we had booked a lobster seafood buffet at Yamm (Mira Hotel) so I wanted to save my appetite to justify the exorbitant price tag.


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I think we must have crisscrossed the city numerous times before we made it back to our hotel for a break before we headed out to dinner. My feet were sore, but my head was dizzy with satisfaction. Kowloon was a gracious host and I felt fortunate to have met her - despite my rude introduction. I was humbled by the friendliness of every shopkeeper we met. They work very hard under very modest but competitive circumstances and it served a sober reminder for me to appreciate the way of life I take for granted back home.
 
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Dinner at the Yamm restaurant was surprisingly restrained. It must be noted that I have the digestive tract of a shark. No joke. I could eat a number plate if it was dipped in gravy. But poor Mr Clipped isn't quite so robust. And while delicious rows of lobster, sushi, prawns and tandoori crab claw beckoned - we needed to engage a diplomatic approach, as previous experience with our snout at the seafood trough has often ended with him spending the evening in the bathroom and cursing the day I was born.

So we happily dined on the stuff we thought looked like stuff we knew. It worked and we both enjoyed a hearty dinner, followed by a charming walk back to our hotel.

Predictably, the city takes on a different personality at night. Kowloon threw off the cloak of her rather grey daytime facade - and proudly morphed into a kaleidoscopic broth of LED's, flashing neons and plasma screens. Every second person was smoking (have they not learned about lung cancer yet?) so there was this thick, smoky cigarette cloud parallel to the ground (just about my head height) and briefly broken only by the low, reverberating hum of a million voices all talking at once.

It was dynamic and serene all at the same time. I loved constantly changing direction and wondering what was around each corner. Sometimes it would be louder and brighter. Sometimes we would find ourselves in a dark, quiet lane with a small bar and couples whispering to each other as they dined.

We eventually found our way back to the hotel and fell into bed, totally exhausted from an epic day. Tomorrow would be a killer - we were going to sightsee all day, before our evening flights home. Lights were out at 10pm.
 
We hit the ground running on the last day. Up at 7 and straight to the buffet breakfast for a lazy hour of spring rolls, noodles and fried rice. All the carbs One needs to keep the metabolism in check. 6 coffees didn't hurt either. Never mind his knees, I think we're both going to need a stomach transplant when we return.......

So, out the door and walk we did. First stop was the Avenue of Stars, where stupidly, I got excited and started taking photos when I saw some famous names. That was, until Mr Clipped gently reminded me that it's Jackie CHAN, not Jackie Cheung. I now have a photo I don't need.

Onwards to the Star Ferry and over the dark green waters to Hong Kong. I was quite impressed with the speed and daring of the captains. They plough those old buckets through chop and swell, then ram them into the ferry terminal to see how many passengers they can dislodge. I think it's a game they play to ease the boredom.

Took a few photos along the way:

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Back to Kowloon and terra firma. I managed to capture some of the British charm that still exists here. The colonial flavour is still evident in some historical buildings and places of interest. The more modern architecture is stark contrast and not always sympathetic to the existing palette, but it does make for some striking photos.


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