A quick trip to the Bahamas (Atlantis / Nassau)

[RooFlyer]

It looked like I was going to have a week gap between work things in Canada, so I started planning a trip to Cuba, which is easily accessible via Air Canada, or via adjoining countries such as Mexico and the Bahamas. I started looking at airfares and things to do in Cuba, and got lots of tips from AFFers http://www.australianfrequentflyer.com.au/community/destination-guide/travel-to-havana-cuban-visa-50063.html. Of course I couldn’t make any advance bookings as I am here for work after all.

As it turned out, the free time was only confirmed on the Tuesday of the week, and I could head off from Wednesday to Saturday. This was too short a time to contemplate Cuba, so I quickly settled for a few days in the Bahamas. Caribbean islands don’t instantly appeal to me; I don’t dive, am past my party days, I don’t drink rum and about half a day on a beach is enough for me at any one time. So two days on the ground in the Bahamas was OK as long as there was something interesting to do. The trip was made doubly attractive as an arctic blast had hit Calgary, there was snow on the ground (in September – almost unheard of) and temperatures were around zero, down from low 20s the week before.

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The good news was that the airfares dropped throughout the final week, and on the Tuesday I was able to get Business/First, leaving Calgary the next day for a bit over $1,000, down from $1,500 a week earlier. The hop across to Nassau was in economy. Of course for this I had to endure one bad connection each way, but for the price, that was OK.

Now, accommodation. I am not a mega resort type of person either, but this time Atlantis beckoned. It’s a multi tower, multi price bracket mega resort with an enormous water park and acres of gardens and water features. Plus pools and beaches of course. It dominates Paradise Island (originally known as Hog Island :shock, a stone’s throw off Nassau town.

The trip can be summed up by three consecutive morning views. The first from Calgary the morning of my departure, the second from a Miami hotel on my way down and the third from my room at Atlantis on the first morning there 

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The first flight was YYC to DFW, departing after lunch. A 3.5 hr journey on American in Business. I should also say that this was my first extensive American Airlines excursion in a long while – usually it’s been just connecting sectors. So interested to see how it would go. The answer was, as ever, a mixed bag. Tucker and IFE grim, service and lounges OK (except the paying bit in the latter!). Prices and on-line stuff excellent.

At the airport, I dared to use one of the machines to check-in. Naturally it didn’t read my passport nor recognise the booking reference number. Wait for the agent to show up; the priority check-in sign is a bit curious; does this mean that OneWorld Emerald, Sapphire and Ruby can use this line? US immigration, done in Calgary was a bit slow this time, but not too bad. Airside, I was pleased to see the de-icers at work.

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No lounges available – there is one that takes Priority Pass, but I don’t have that. Calgary airport recently opened up a new runway to accommodate A380s and it was a very long taxi out there to depart.

We were on a 737 with several pop-down screens in the 6 row business cabin and there’s a Kevin Costner film on. Lunch is served (after 2:15pm departure time!) and was frankly unappetising, suffering from over re-heating. Wines were ‘red or white’. Seat is pretty comfortable, storage spaces OK and service OK to good. Score about 6/10 for a medium haul J experience. BTW no OneWorld Emerald recognition here, or on any of my AA flights.

We get into DFW a bit early and I have to change terminals from D to C, on the other side of the complex. This necessitates taking the Skytrain on a ludicrous huge looping journey around a car park to the south of the terminals (future terminal site?) to get to Terminal C, which is directly opposite my departure point. A freeway bisects the DFW terminals down the middle, so going directly across isn’t possible. During the ride, I spotted an old friend. You can see the Skytrain route looping out around a future terminal site

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Short time in the Admirals Club, which was spacious and nice.

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I wander down to the concourse looking to change come CAD, only to be told that FX was only in Terminal D. I settle for some USD from an ATM. Looks like Chase has the monopoly on ATMs at DFW, and neither my TD Canadian debit card, nor my CITI Plus card are accepted. Have to revert to my CBA ATM card, at some cost.

 

[BAM1748]

Thanks for that, how was the resort, my instant family is wanting to go there (from Sydney) but I'm wondering if worth the effort (and cost).

Thanks.

Matt

 

[TomVexille]

Excellent. Another RooFlyer TR

 

[RooFlyer]

Thanks for that, how was the resort, my instant family is wanting to go there (from Sydney) but I'm wondering if worth the effort (and cost).

Thanks.

Matt

Full account coming up Matt

Flight DFW to MIA (First) was 2.5 hours, departing about 8:30pm. I forgot to check the meal service beforehand; it was a ‘snack’ of packaged cookies and small packaged bun based sandwiches, some fruit and chips etc. Better than nothing, but not much! Drinks OK though.

Into MIA a bit after midnight local to a nearly deserted terminal. Walking down the concourse the alarm goes off, along with dozens of strobe lights, 3 to every pillar, ceiling, etc. Quite surreal; a recorded voice booms that there is an alert on and to STAND BY. I and everyone else keeps walking and in the next section nothing is happening so I continue to the exit, alert but not alarmed. I managed to get this photograph in between strobe flashes .

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I was booked at the nearby Sofitel for about $140. I had sent them an e-mail asking about the availability of their shuttle after midnight and asking for best alternative if not running (probably taxi, but you never know). Annoyingly, they just sent their generic shuttle-info reply, which did say that it stopped at midnight. So I got a very short taxi ride and tipped the guy well.

Sofitel was pretty basic for a Sofitel, but comfortable enough. You can hear jets taking off from the adjacent runway, but I was so tired I just passed out. Great morning view over what they call their ‘Blue Lagoon’. (Except it's more grey than blue and there was no sign of Brooke Shields anywhere )

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I missed my airport shuttle ride because after 15 minutes in the check-out queue, the guests being served were still there. I got the next shuttle, after another 20 minutes, but had plenty of time.
Breakfast in the MIA Admirals Club, which necessitated paying of course, unless I wanted to breakfast on pretzels or crackers.

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Travel MIA-NAS was on a little Embraer 145 in a Y only 1-2 configuration. Flying time about 40 minutes. No service due to some nasty choppy turbulence.
We land at NAS late morning, and the terminal appears deserted on the walk to immigration. In the immigration hall, there were about 50 people in front of me, and things moved slowly, but I thought ‘Hey, relax, you are in the Bahamas’. Over to one side a band played some upbeat music and the Bahamas had started well.

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Well, that didn’t last long. After walking through Customs (I was HLO), I went over to the Atlantis desk to get my pre booked transfer to the hotel. This became a somewhat chaotic experience which I learned was not atypical for the Bahamas. I’ve travelled plenty to countries with a ‘relaxed’ sense of organisation and timing, but when I’m paying top dollar for a resort, this was a tough initiation here.

The lady at the counter dealt with the group of 4 in front, then led them out of the terminal – and didn’t come back … for 10 minutes, during which time I was worried that I was supposed to follow them and had missed my ride. Eventually she returned, asked for all my flight details (which were given in the booking of course) and filled out a chit. Then she led me to the exit door, where I was handed over to another guy. He led me across the drop-off area roads in front of the doors and handed me to yet another guy (gee, am I looking that old that I need an escort across a road of crawling/stopping traffic?). At this point I joined about 6 others and was AGAIN asked my flight details and was told that I would be picked up at 6am at the resort on the morning I leave ‘because you need to arrive 3 hours before departure’ (this turned out to be rubbish).

Then, and for the next 15 minutes, he announced that the bus was on its way; it had left the lot; it was approaching now … but it wasn’t. We all waited 20 minutes in the heat for transport that never arrived. Even if it was only 5 minutes, why the hell don’t they leave pax in the terminal, then collect them and put them on the bus???? :evil:

So here’s the empty Atlantis desk … 3 or 4 transfer check-in screens in total and no-one there, and us waiting for the bus to arrive. Eventually we were put in the mini van and one of the Town Cars to the left. So, hot and bothered we set out for Atlantis. Tip: I'd take a taxi next time; they are well regulated with set fares to the major resort. the Atlantis transfer (via 'Dan Knowles Tours') was a no-show on this arrival, and late on the departure pick up.

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[RooFlyer]

Let me give the verdict on Atlantis up front. Remember it consists of about 8 different lots and cost spreads of accommodation, and most of the grounds, pools, water park and activities are available to all guests.

• Cove tower, adults only (except for very young children), with an ‘exclusive’ pool area; this is where I stayed;

• Reef, a separate tower;

• Royal Towers, the main complex, two large towers joined by the most exclusive, 10 room suite @ $25,000/night, 4 night minimum; I think the regular Royal Towers are mid priced (for the complex);

• Several low rise Coral Towers and Beach Towers, the more basic, Holiday Inn type accommodation (I think – I didn’t go inside). All the accommodations are inter-connected at ground level;

• Others such as the marina area (individual units, I think);

• There is a huge water park; numerous pools and several patrolled beaches;

• Swim-with-dolphins experience area (pool, not in the sea);

• Lots of other ‘experiences’; mostly paid, some free. The next day’s activities and times are posted each day before;

• Extensive landscaped gardens with heaps of water features with waterfalls, ponds, babbling brooks, with fish, turtles, sharks (non nasty kind, I assume) and rays in them;
• Casino, conference centre;

• Large kids video game, child minding etc area;

• An ENORMOUS aquarium which for me was one of the highlights;

• At least 20 eating options with bars etc scattered around; from expensive (natch) to take-away. 15% gratuity included automatically, with space to add more (grrrr….). House-keeping gratuity added to the room rate on booking;

• You can buy ‘meal plans’, ($$ per day) which include breakfast, dinner and non alcoholic drinks, but you have to buy it for the entire stay. I didn’t, and I’m glad I didn’t as I was OK going for much cheaper options (Starbucks for breakfast, one of the cheaper places for dinner);

• To get into Nassau downtown there is a 15 minute walk to the water taxi area, then a 20 min ride in a bit of a rough craft for $4 each way, plus commentary (tip expected). Or taxi.


I would say that if you had a young family (say 6 to 16 for best effect), and took full advantage of the water park, snorkelling and other activities it would be a good to great holiday, albeit it could get expensive – but check out the Coral Towers to leaven the price options a bit. For me, it was interesting, and I’m glad I went, but wouldn’t bother again. It’s very Americanised (I don't mean that pejoratively, its just that its not very Bahamian), loud (as in loud music in pool areas and other music piped and broadcast all over via ground level speakers) and the service is certainly not like you get in resorts in the South Pacific (ie its mostly not that friendly or engaging and lots of shrug of shoulder type attitude).

If you went in main season (US holidays) I reckon the water park would get uncomfortably chokkers. I went recently, in off season and the place wasn’t crowded at all, although the weather was overcast and thundery and low 30s (forecast that way, sunny the week after )

Another advantage is that it’s close to Miami, so you can get the Caribbean experience without a large airfare (or long flight) from the US.

These are the 'Royal Towers' (there's much more left and right):

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And this is the spread of towers (Reef, Cove (side on) and twin Royal Towers), taken from the ferry across to Nassau; the ocean beaches are on the other side; casino, conference centre and low rise Coral towers off to the right. Everything is joined by covered walkways, or there's a shuttle. I mentioned to the Concierge at Cove that I was walking to the Marina (15 mins) and they were staggered that I wasn't taking the shuttle. "But its such a long way!"

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But anyway, I arrive at Cove (the middle tower in the pic above), to the check-in area, and then there’s still a bit of a walk to the elevators to the room, all through nice breezeways.

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I must admit the room was tremendous. I think they are much the same in the bulk of the Cove tower, but you pay more to go higher. Split level, with a ‘lounge’ area on the lower level, with a balcony having views to the ocean (and the Reef tower across the gardens!).

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[boomy]

Thanks for the TR RooFlyer.
I always wondered about Atlantis and if it's worth going there. My friend who lives in Jamaica been there a few times and told me it's not worth the journey all the way from Australia. Looks like he was right. Maybe a stopover on a larger Caribbean holiday or a couple of nights from Miami as you said but definitely not a destination by the look of things.

 

[Major]

It looks like the Atlantis in Dubai...are they the same mob ?

 

[Alanslegal]

Good trip report RooFlyer

Thanks for that, how was the resort, my instant family is wanting to go there (from Sydney) but I'm wondering if worth the effort (and cost).

I always wondered about Atlantis and if it's worth going there. My friend who lives in Jamaica been there a few times and told me it's not worth the journey all the way from Australia. Looks like he was right. Maybe a stopover on a larger Caribbean holiday or a couple of nights from Miami as you said but definitely not a destination by the look of things.

I visited The Atlantis back in 2010 when I squeezed The Bahamas into the side of a RTW trip I was completing. I agree I would not travel all the way from Australia just to visit this place, but if you're in the area then why not. Here is my review of it....

http://www.australianfrequentflyer....eviews/the-atlantis-resort-bahamas-26635.html

 

[BAM1748]

Thanks for that, did visit the Yucatan Peninsula last year and stayed at the Barcelo Maya resort (one of them anyway) and it was quiet nice, no water park but plenty of pools and nice beach. The worst bit was me hiring a car and driving from Cancun airport south to the resort and back. :mrgreen:

The Atlantis doesn't look too bad a price, cheaper than I paid at Barcelo per night but for what it is it's a bloody long way and passing over the top of some very good places between here and there.

Thanks Rooflyer.

Matt

 

[RooFlyer]

The Cove tower again; I was about a third of the way up with a decent view of the sea. Cruise liners wandered back and forth each day.

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And this is the ‘exclusive’ ‘Cain’ pool area, just for Cove guests; no children. The thatched area on the right is a small, open air gambling area, and there’s a bar behind (local beer $9.50 after tax and 15% compulsory gratuity; its $5 at a restaurant in town). Three separate pools, with day beds etc. On the outer margins are private cabanas ($100/day I think), with air con, TV, fridge etc; own little deck area and daybeds. On a hot day they would be the place to be in.

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What the pics doesn’t show is the fact that all day the pool area is blasted by very loud rap music, (Snoopy Dog??) complete with doof-doof bass and casual obscenities. Now, I know I’m getting a bit of an old fogey, but how on earth does that qualify as ‘cool’? The reason I’m guessing is to keep the older codgers like me away and so the ‘beautiful’ people would occupy the space.

Well, it didn’t work. Most were the +40s to 50’s brigade with bods to match (count me in that lot) and some that really should not have been groov’n to the music on the pedestal in the centre of the pool (not me!) :shock:

Here are some shots of the gardens and pools at night. Strange – absolutely no-one walking about after dark. Even in the gardens it’s mostly well lit, and bright along the walkways under cover etc, but everybody obviously eating, drinking or gambling! Or they knew something that I didn't ...

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[kazhere]

Loving reading this report, thanks! I have always wanted to go there ever since I read about Michael Jordan staying in the Royal Towers main suite. $9.50 plus for a beer hurts a bit

 

[RooFlyer]

BTW about money: you could spend your entire time here and not see or use a Bahamian dollar. It’s USD all the way: if you pay in BH$, you’ll get change in USD; I had to ask at several shops before I got a BH$1 note as a souvenir.

It’s pretty easy to get into Nassau downtown from the resort. It would be about a 40 minute walk over one of the two bridges linking Paradise Island to the ‘mainland’, but hot and steamy and with a good chance of rain I ditched that idea. There’s a taxi, or then there’s the water taxis – actually boats with about 20-30 capacity running every half an hour currently – for $8 round trip.

This is the water taxi wharf on the Island; the two bridges to the mainland can be seen behind. The water taxis are more like the boat on the left in the LH pic and nothing like the boat in the foreground . On the right are a couple of the cruise liners we passed. The port can handle up to 7 of these monsters at a time. This day, there were only two.

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A ‘volunteer’ guide boards and spins a good story about Nassau, the ‘celebrities’ who have houses on the Island, the cruise liners etc. A tip is expected at the end; trip takes about 15-20 minutes and is quite enjoyable, but the seating is a bit primitive.

I make my way down the main street – Bay Street – which is full of tourists and a bunch of nondescript shops and bars, and continue along the shoreline and after 30 minutes I reached my destination, the ‘Fish Fry’ for lunch. This is a well know collection of ‘local restaurants’ all in a row where you can get ‘good Bahamian food’ according to the guy who drove us in from the airport the previous day. My lunch of grouper fillets and wedges was OK, but nothing to rave about but the beer was cold and relatively cheap.

Pic on the left is part of the row of restaurants; on the right one of a number of similarly themed signs. Others are a bit more explicit in a reproductive sense; not obscene, but the prude in me thought best not posted here.

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And here we see the ‘taxi driver lounge’ at Fish Fry – business must have been good! And a sneakily camouflaged cannon on the foreshore.

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More Nassau scenes – a waterside ‘bar’ (business was quiet) and a couple of Nassau’s finest. These guys (and gals) were always magnificently turned out, which gave them significant authority. I witnessed an older policeman, with cane under his arm, wandering up a street, touching defects on cars as he went by and crisply telling the owner to get such fixed, else ‘you know what will happen tomorrow’ . Every illegally parked car (and there were many) got moved on, instantly, at his command.

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One of the beaches at the town. Pretty ordinary, but it was an overcast and rainy day. Offshore you can see the tip of Paradise Island and two liners to the right.

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[RooFlyer]

On my way back I took in some of the sights of Nassau. The greater town has a population of about 200,000 I was told. Downtown it has a feel a bit like Darwin, pre cyclone and even post cyclone. Laid back, lots of tropical foliage, some old colonial buildings, a number of dilapidated buildings and some restored gems. The bright colours here are great to see.

The Pirates of the Caribbean ‘museum’ is very popular and I was tempted to go in there, but chose not to. This guy is permanently groov’n outside what I assume used to be his residence.

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I walk up the hill to see what’s there; usually some of a town's grander buildings in my experience. Sure enough, there’s Government House. A pretty colonial pink pile, this version was built after a 1929 hurricane almost destroyed the previous one. It was remodelled in the 1940s when the Duke of Windsor (as in David and Wallace) was sent here as Governor to get him out of the way. The place is much bigger than the pic indicates – wings to either side, quite large. A statue of Christopher Columbus, made in London in 1830 looks out over the harbour.

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It was interesting to observe that, although the main street was packed with people (tourists), these streets, just 2 blocks up the hill, were completely deserted of tourists. Not a sole (except apparent locals) did I pass in 30 minutes exploring up here.

The main entrance to Govt House is at the side, with a boom gate and crisply uniformed guards. When I went to take a picture behind the boom, with a bad angle, the (extremely presentable) lady guard said it was fine to go in, along the paved driveway, as long as I kept to the yellow line running along the edge of the paved area. . You can walk right in front of the mansion through the Govt House grounds.

Just along the road are some more substantial places, all with great views out over the harbour:

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Of course there are some fixer-uppers, and a number of stately houses quietly decaying in the tropical environment, but most seem to be under active restoration (and being painted pink).

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As you come down the hill from the Post office, you enter the government buildings precinct, including the library, court houses, parliament police, etc. Uniformly painted pink.

The building on the left I think was originally a jail, but is now a library, and on the right, I think is part of the court complex.

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[RooFlyer]

Continuing the look at downtown.

More pink buildings – I wonder who has the pink paint concession?

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I think this is the front of Parliament House, with Queen Vic lording over the square. The Bahamas coat of arms is colourful!

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How could you not drink Bacardi in the Bahamas? Can’t miss this one. Another place on Bay Street (main street)

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More Bay Street

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This square celebrates Bahamian Independence; the signs represent the major island groups - there are over 700 islands in the Bahamas, but only about 26 are occupied (IIRC).

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[RooFlyer]

Back at the Atlantis resort, time to check out the water features.

There are many waterfalls, large marine pools and smaller tropical pools, mainly clustered around the Royal Towers. Besides abundant tropical fish in the appropriate pools, there are pools for turtles, and several for sharks and rays.

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But it was the aquarium that stole the show for me. Its enormous, with IIRC about 30 viewing areas as you do a 360 degree tour. Its most obvious in the Royal Towers atrium area – the turquoise walled areas to the left. In the tank, viewing is very clear and each area seems to have different species. But some of the larger guys just zoom around, full pelt.

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A ‘fish eye view’ of Atlantis

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And then there was the lobster tank. The lobsters were very animated, crawling up the walls, along the metal thing, falling off and drifting to the bottom. Yum!

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[BAM1748]

What a great trip report !

 

[casanovawa]

That's the problem with expensive resorts, the rooms expensive, the food, the drinks, the massages, etc, etc, etc...

I took a 4 night cruise out of Orlando and one of the stops was Nassau, so also took and posted some of the same pics...

I walked over one of the bridges to have a quick little look at Atlantis (couldn't go in the main part without being a guest or having a pass) so then took the same water taxi back over to the main town....

There were like 5 cruise ships on the day we were there...

Had a slightly unsavoury start to the day visit but it was ok after that, not sure there is enough to make me want to go back...

And yes, the resort does look amazing but probably out of my price range, on the cruise ship you could also buy day passes to go over and use the pools and see the aquariums and all etc if that's how you wanted to spend your 16 hours or so in port and they weren't overly cheap either...

 

[drron]

Thanks Rooflyer.We have a cruise leaving Nassau in 12 months time-no not a 5000 pax thing just 120!
So my conclusion was to just stay in Nassau the night before and you have confirmed that for me.I will leave just enough time for a walk up the hill.

 

[RooFlyer]

Thanks Rooflyer.We have a cruise leaving Nassau in 12 months time-no not a 5000 pax thing just 120!
So my conclusion was to just stay in Nassau the night before and you have confirmed that for me.I will leave just enough time for a walk up the hill.

Its the lobsters that did it, wasn't it?

The Hilton looks a nice pile, downtown.

 

[RooFlyer]

Just a few more fish pics, because I think they are nice.

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