SOUTH AMERICA TRIP REPORT MARCH 2018
We boarded Air NZ (a 777 aircraft) Business Class BNE to AKL, transit AKL, then AKL to BUE. Comfortable flight, good service from a competent and friendly crew. Strange configuration of J class with the seats on the angle so if you want to look out the window, as I did as we flew over the Patagonian lakes and fjords, then you have to twist your body which was very uncomfortable and the angle also enabled you to see what other passengers were doing or watching on their TV, so not very private.
At the taxi stand inside BUE airport we arranged a taxi transfer USD43 to our downtown Sofitel Brick Hotel. We joined Accor Hotels prior to the trip. The Brick was very good and a short taxi ride to the cruise port where we boarded our cruise ship Celebrity Infinity the next afternoon. We crashed that night and the next day we joined a small group half day tour prearranged through a link on the hotel site (Get Your Guide Tours).
The ship overnighted BUE that night so we joined a Celebrity excursion to a dinner and Tango show which was fantastic.
We sailed the following day to Montevideo where we also joined a Celebrity half day tour of the city and suburbs. This tour was very comprehensive. After the tour we walked around the markets near the port.
Arrived Punta del Este, Uruguay 0630 the next morning with tender boats to go ashore. We didn’t take any tours but walked for miles visiting the lighthouse, beaches along the shore to the city centre and back to the ship seeing sea lions in the harbour. We sailed at 1530.
The next day was a sea day with shore excursion talks from Mickey Live and Ranger John.
0900 the next day we berthed at Puerto Madryn, Argentina. Many passengers took tours to see the penguins etc. but we caught the shuttle bus downtown for coffee and internet access. Very uninteresting town. We walked around for the exercise and caught the shuttle bus back to the ship.
Another sea day the next day but unexpectedly we had to divert our course to be closer to shore to enable a medivac helicopter to land on the ship to evacuate a crew member to hospital. This resulted in a 17 hour deviation and caused a change to the ship schedule. A stop at Punta Arenas was cancelled and we had another sea day before arriving at Ushuaia 0600. Our Celebrity shore excursion by catamaran and bus was brilliant. We saw small islands full of sea lions, seals, cormorants and other bird species. We drove in Tierra del Fuego National Park stopping at lakes and a tourist shop. We sailed that night.
We arrived at Cape Horn for a clear and beautiful sunrise the next day. The ship did 360o circles off the Cape to enable everyone to get good photos of the Naval Station and Albatross Monument. We then sailed up the Beagle Channel, past Ushuaia and into Glacier Alley. We were on deck all day seeing whales and in awe of the many glaciers – The Italian Glacier, The Romance Glacier, The Albanian Glacier etc. Superb weather conditions for viewing.
The next day Glacier Alley became the Straits of Magellan so we sailed all day eventually arriving at the Pacific Ocean where we experienced rough seas with cloud and rain.
Another sea day the next day with strong head winds in the Pacific.
Arrived at Puerto Montt, Chile, a tender port the next day. We joined a Celebrity excursion by bus to Puerto Varas, Lake Llanquihue, Osorno Volcano and the Petrohue Rapids. It was a cold and wet day but we managed to see it all.
Another sea day.
Arrived San Antonio, Chile the following day and were met by our prearranged car transfer (US$42) for the 1 hour 20 minute drive to Santiago where we stayed one night at the Mercure Hotel. A modern, comfortable hotel but not glamorous and only 1 of 2 lifts working so long waits. A very nice pool area overlooking the city. We joined a half day tour of the city that afternoon which was quite comprehensive. We could see Mt. Aconcagua which is in Mendoza, Argentina but close to the border with Chile. This mountain is the highest in all the Americas and the highest mountain outside Asia.
The next day after a walk around nearby streets we flew SCL to LIM. All internal flights were with Latam (all economy flights). We arrived late afternoon and by the time we checked into our hotel near the airport, The Manhattan Hotel, we were too late to do the night bus tour of Lima. The Manhattan was a disappointment – basic rooms, no air con, only fans, restaurant not open for dinner so we had to have a take away pizza delivered.
Up early the next day and back to LIM airport for our 1 hour 20 minute flight to Cusco. We had prearranged a transfer with Taxidatam (US$65) who were there to meet us. We had taken Diamox tablets the day before so the altitude did not affect us greatly. Our driver stopped at Chincherro where families still preserve their traditional costumes and show the ancestral way in which they process wool and obtain those vivid colours for their textiles. Here we purchased the compulsory Boleto Turistico ticket to enable us to visit most of the ancient sites. Our next stop was the salt pans of Moras then to Moray to see the Inca agricultural experimental site which pre-dates Machu Picchu. Amazing sites and views, all at altitude. We drove on a back road through mountains down into the valley to Ollantaytambo where we stayed 2 nights at Le Alberge Hotel right on the railway station. A gem of a hotel with a superb restaurant but a room at the back is a must or you hear trains all night. We were lucky to be at the back.
We were right on site for our 5am train to Machu Picchu. A scenic 1 hour 20 minute train journey with snacks and drinks provided. On arrival at Machu Picchu we bought bus tickets and queued for the 20 minute trip up the mountains to the ancient site of Machu Picchu. The day was cool with a light mist. We had no problem walking all over the ruins, up and down many stairs. Afterwards we caught the bus back to the town of Machu Picchu where we walked around looking at the markets and shops and had coffee. Later we caught the train back to Ollantaytambo where we walked to see the organic gardens of our hotel and views to the ruins on the mountains behind the hotel.
Taxidatam provided a transfer the next morning to Cusco (US70) visiting amazing sites en route including Pisac, Puca Pucara and Sac Say Huaman. Most of the sites we visited to and from Cusco were at a higher altitude than Cusco.
In Cusco we stayed at the beautiful Novatel Hotel built around a 16th century building and situated in the historic centre close to the Plaza de Armas where we had lunch and walked around nearby streets until a storm approached and sent us packing back to the hotel.
Up early the next morning for our flight to LIM which was delayed but meant less time in transit in LIM for our next 3 hour flight to Iguassu. We had arranged to be met by the Belmond Hotel for the transfer, a 20 minute drive to the Belmond Hotel. A superb Portuguese colonial building and the only hotel located within Brazil’s Iguassu National Park. Beautiful appointed rooms, huge manicured gardens and directly opposite the entrance to the falls.
We were up early to do the falls walk which meant we were mostly the only people on the walk. After 0900 the buses start pouring into the park but by then we had done the walk and returned to the hotel for a shower and breakfast. The Belmond had one of the best breakfast buffets I have ever seen even including the makings of a Bloody Mary and French Champagne on ice. After breakfast we caught the free bus to the park gate where we walked to the helicopter base. It was only a short wait for the helicopter ride – 10 minutes for US$140 each. We each thought it was well worth the cost with wonderful views of the falls and surrounding areas.
We visited the Bird Sanctuary afterwards and thoroughly enjoyed the vast array of birds, iguana, snakes etc. We then caught the free bus back to the Belmond Hotel where we had a delicious dinner in the dining room.
The next morning we transferred back to the airport for our 12.30pm flight to Rio, a 1 hour 40 minute flight. We caught an airport taxi to the Sofitel Hotel at Ipanema Beach. Such a beautiful location opposite the beach and within an easy walk to the shopping streets and Sunday market. Our room was up high with views to the northern part of Ipanema Beach. We loved our stay here. The rooftop bar has views north and south of the beach and great food.
We had a prearranged full day tour through the hotel link (Get Your Guide) the next day and what a great comprehensive tour it was including Tijuka National Park, Cascatinha Taunay Waterfall, Mayrink Chapel, Park Visitor Centre, a rainforest walk, views from the Chinese Fields Monument, lunch at our cost at Kilograma, bus up to Christ The Redeemer, stop at Santa Teresa suburb and at the cathedral in the centre before dropping us at Sugar Loaf Mountain where we caught the cable car to the top for the sunset. Such a wonderful day.
The next morning we caught a taxi to the Fort at Copacabana Beach where we walked all over the Fort and had fantastic views to the beach. A taxi back to the Sofitel Hotel were we packed and transferred by taxi to the airport for a flight to BUE, 2 hours 50 minutes. EZE airport is a wonderful modern airport.
We again took an airport taxi to the Sofitel Brick Hotel but were surprised to see the front of the hotel covered in scaffolding with renovations underway. We paid US$100 extra for late checkout the next day for the midnight flight BUE to AKL/BNE. However we were given a room at the front and not only the garbage truck but the renovations woke us early. Otherwise the room was great. After complaining they reduced the late checkout cost to US$50 which was some compensation. The Brick Hotel had the best hotel beds of the whole trip.
No dramas on our flight home with Air NZ. I took 2 Normison tablets after the meal and slept for 7 hours BUE/AKL. We had a 5 hour transit at AKL airport. The Air NZ lounge was packed because it is an Alliance Lounge. Flight on time AKL/BNE.
We needed to show our Yellow Fever certificate on entry to Brisbane though we were not in a Yellow Fever area.
We took a small amount of Argentine and Chile currency but took US$ cash which was accepted in most places and we used our credit card for hotels and where possible.
This was a wonderful trip and we had no problems with health and were never bothered by robbers but we didn’t walk around with much money, passports or jewellery to avoid being a target.
We boarded Air NZ (a 777 aircraft) Business Class BNE to AKL, transit AKL, then AKL to BUE. Comfortable flight, good service from a competent and friendly crew. Strange configuration of J class with the seats on the angle so if you want to look out the window, as I did as we flew over the Patagonian lakes and fjords, then you have to twist your body which was very uncomfortable and the angle also enabled you to see what other passengers were doing or watching on their TV, so not very private.
At the taxi stand inside BUE airport we arranged a taxi transfer USD43 to our downtown Sofitel Brick Hotel. We joined Accor Hotels prior to the trip. The Brick was very good and a short taxi ride to the cruise port where we boarded our cruise ship Celebrity Infinity the next afternoon. We crashed that night and the next day we joined a small group half day tour prearranged through a link on the hotel site (Get Your Guide Tours).
The ship overnighted BUE that night so we joined a Celebrity excursion to a dinner and Tango show which was fantastic.
We sailed the following day to Montevideo where we also joined a Celebrity half day tour of the city and suburbs. This tour was very comprehensive. After the tour we walked around the markets near the port.
Arrived Punta del Este, Uruguay 0630 the next morning with tender boats to go ashore. We didn’t take any tours but walked for miles visiting the lighthouse, beaches along the shore to the city centre and back to the ship seeing sea lions in the harbour. We sailed at 1530.
The next day was a sea day with shore excursion talks from Mickey Live and Ranger John.
0900 the next day we berthed at Puerto Madryn, Argentina. Many passengers took tours to see the penguins etc. but we caught the shuttle bus downtown for coffee and internet access. Very uninteresting town. We walked around for the exercise and caught the shuttle bus back to the ship.
Another sea day the next day but unexpectedly we had to divert our course to be closer to shore to enable a medivac helicopter to land on the ship to evacuate a crew member to hospital. This resulted in a 17 hour deviation and caused a change to the ship schedule. A stop at Punta Arenas was cancelled and we had another sea day before arriving at Ushuaia 0600. Our Celebrity shore excursion by catamaran and bus was brilliant. We saw small islands full of sea lions, seals, cormorants and other bird species. We drove in Tierra del Fuego National Park stopping at lakes and a tourist shop. We sailed that night.
We arrived at Cape Horn for a clear and beautiful sunrise the next day. The ship did 360o circles off the Cape to enable everyone to get good photos of the Naval Station and Albatross Monument. We then sailed up the Beagle Channel, past Ushuaia and into Glacier Alley. We were on deck all day seeing whales and in awe of the many glaciers – The Italian Glacier, The Romance Glacier, The Albanian Glacier etc. Superb weather conditions for viewing.
The next day Glacier Alley became the Straits of Magellan so we sailed all day eventually arriving at the Pacific Ocean where we experienced rough seas with cloud and rain.
Another sea day the next day with strong head winds in the Pacific.
Arrived at Puerto Montt, Chile, a tender port the next day. We joined a Celebrity excursion by bus to Puerto Varas, Lake Llanquihue, Osorno Volcano and the Petrohue Rapids. It was a cold and wet day but we managed to see it all.
Another sea day.
Arrived San Antonio, Chile the following day and were met by our prearranged car transfer (US$42) for the 1 hour 20 minute drive to Santiago where we stayed one night at the Mercure Hotel. A modern, comfortable hotel but not glamorous and only 1 of 2 lifts working so long waits. A very nice pool area overlooking the city. We joined a half day tour of the city that afternoon which was quite comprehensive. We could see Mt. Aconcagua which is in Mendoza, Argentina but close to the border with Chile. This mountain is the highest in all the Americas and the highest mountain outside Asia.
The next day after a walk around nearby streets we flew SCL to LIM. All internal flights were with Latam (all economy flights). We arrived late afternoon and by the time we checked into our hotel near the airport, The Manhattan Hotel, we were too late to do the night bus tour of Lima. The Manhattan was a disappointment – basic rooms, no air con, only fans, restaurant not open for dinner so we had to have a take away pizza delivered.
Up early the next day and back to LIM airport for our 1 hour 20 minute flight to Cusco. We had prearranged a transfer with Taxidatam (US$65) who were there to meet us. We had taken Diamox tablets the day before so the altitude did not affect us greatly. Our driver stopped at Chincherro where families still preserve their traditional costumes and show the ancestral way in which they process wool and obtain those vivid colours for their textiles. Here we purchased the compulsory Boleto Turistico ticket to enable us to visit most of the ancient sites. Our next stop was the salt pans of Moras then to Moray to see the Inca agricultural experimental site which pre-dates Machu Picchu. Amazing sites and views, all at altitude. We drove on a back road through mountains down into the valley to Ollantaytambo where we stayed 2 nights at Le Alberge Hotel right on the railway station. A gem of a hotel with a superb restaurant but a room at the back is a must or you hear trains all night. We were lucky to be at the back.
We were right on site for our 5am train to Machu Picchu. A scenic 1 hour 20 minute train journey with snacks and drinks provided. On arrival at Machu Picchu we bought bus tickets and queued for the 20 minute trip up the mountains to the ancient site of Machu Picchu. The day was cool with a light mist. We had no problem walking all over the ruins, up and down many stairs. Afterwards we caught the bus back to the town of Machu Picchu where we walked around looking at the markets and shops and had coffee. Later we caught the train back to Ollantaytambo where we walked to see the organic gardens of our hotel and views to the ruins on the mountains behind the hotel.
Taxidatam provided a transfer the next morning to Cusco (US70) visiting amazing sites en route including Pisac, Puca Pucara and Sac Say Huaman. Most of the sites we visited to and from Cusco were at a higher altitude than Cusco.
In Cusco we stayed at the beautiful Novatel Hotel built around a 16th century building and situated in the historic centre close to the Plaza de Armas where we had lunch and walked around nearby streets until a storm approached and sent us packing back to the hotel.
Up early the next morning for our flight to LIM which was delayed but meant less time in transit in LIM for our next 3 hour flight to Iguassu. We had arranged to be met by the Belmond Hotel for the transfer, a 20 minute drive to the Belmond Hotel. A superb Portuguese colonial building and the only hotel located within Brazil’s Iguassu National Park. Beautiful appointed rooms, huge manicured gardens and directly opposite the entrance to the falls.
We were up early to do the falls walk which meant we were mostly the only people on the walk. After 0900 the buses start pouring into the park but by then we had done the walk and returned to the hotel for a shower and breakfast. The Belmond had one of the best breakfast buffets I have ever seen even including the makings of a Bloody Mary and French Champagne on ice. After breakfast we caught the free bus to the park gate where we walked to the helicopter base. It was only a short wait for the helicopter ride – 10 minutes for US$140 each. We each thought it was well worth the cost with wonderful views of the falls and surrounding areas.
We visited the Bird Sanctuary afterwards and thoroughly enjoyed the vast array of birds, iguana, snakes etc. We then caught the free bus back to the Belmond Hotel where we had a delicious dinner in the dining room.
The next morning we transferred back to the airport for our 12.30pm flight to Rio, a 1 hour 40 minute flight. We caught an airport taxi to the Sofitel Hotel at Ipanema Beach. Such a beautiful location opposite the beach and within an easy walk to the shopping streets and Sunday market. Our room was up high with views to the northern part of Ipanema Beach. We loved our stay here. The rooftop bar has views north and south of the beach and great food.
We had a prearranged full day tour through the hotel link (Get Your Guide) the next day and what a great comprehensive tour it was including Tijuka National Park, Cascatinha Taunay Waterfall, Mayrink Chapel, Park Visitor Centre, a rainforest walk, views from the Chinese Fields Monument, lunch at our cost at Kilograma, bus up to Christ The Redeemer, stop at Santa Teresa suburb and at the cathedral in the centre before dropping us at Sugar Loaf Mountain where we caught the cable car to the top for the sunset. Such a wonderful day.
The next morning we caught a taxi to the Fort at Copacabana Beach where we walked all over the Fort and had fantastic views to the beach. A taxi back to the Sofitel Hotel were we packed and transferred by taxi to the airport for a flight to BUE, 2 hours 50 minutes. EZE airport is a wonderful modern airport.
We again took an airport taxi to the Sofitel Brick Hotel but were surprised to see the front of the hotel covered in scaffolding with renovations underway. We paid US$100 extra for late checkout the next day for the midnight flight BUE to AKL/BNE. However we were given a room at the front and not only the garbage truck but the renovations woke us early. Otherwise the room was great. After complaining they reduced the late checkout cost to US$50 which was some compensation. The Brick Hotel had the best hotel beds of the whole trip.
No dramas on our flight home with Air NZ. I took 2 Normison tablets after the meal and slept for 7 hours BUE/AKL. We had a 5 hour transit at AKL airport. The Air NZ lounge was packed because it is an Alliance Lounge. Flight on time AKL/BNE.
We needed to show our Yellow Fever certificate on entry to Brisbane though we were not in a Yellow Fever area.
We took a small amount of Argentine and Chile currency but took US$ cash which was accepted in most places and we used our credit card for hotels and where possible.
This was a wonderful trip and we had no problems with health and were never bothered by robbers but we didn’t walk around with much money, passports or jewellery to avoid being a target.
